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Hi thanks for watching and you will love making the S50, let us know how you get on. Looks like MEW have changed the location, try this link and change the 1 at the end to 2 or 3 or 4 etc to find what you need, cheers www.model-engineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/documents/sally-1.pdf Please support the MEW if you can

Let me have a look into it cheers

Cheers Rich glad they are just the job 😉

No worries

Glad it helped

He is not admitting defeat easily, it's not helping me and his son but we are doing our best, I've took some and found good homes for other stuff, keep watching more to follow.

Oh I plan to, cheers my friend.

Thank you, I have been told they are fitted and music fills the air. Cheers

No plans, yes a bit on the fly, a bit in my head, built from scrap for a job I was doing at the time, then it morphed twice. The other reason no plans is to make it fit your lathe and your requirements, there is an article in MEW number 327, hope you have a look.

Cheers Paul

Cheers Norm, let us know how you get on.

Thanks a lot, cheers for watching.

It's funny in my neck of the woods they have always (as far as I know) been a topslide, I don't know if it was someone local who brought it back from the States or read a book, but locals always say topslide but down the road it's compound. I have used both in other videos, just to make it worse. Cheers

My other half commented the other day about them, saying "Even I couldn't mess that up." Bet she could, haha. Yep I agree very user friendly.

Thanks for the info, did'nt realise the first, but no surprise cos the number of clones and copies proves they got somert right. Cheers

@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop Colchester's best small lathe was the Chipmaster. These lathes were built mostly from parts from Students. The way Colchester did this was through their quality control system. Parts of close tolerance were specifically selected for use in the construction of the Chipmaster. I owned a second hand one of these machines for 20 years. A very friendly and accurate lathe to use.

@@haroldpearson6025 I looked at a chipmaster many moons ago but did'nt get on with it so went down the myford road, not sure if it may have been just that one but this student feels better, maybe I got a good one? But like you I know people who love the chipmaster, swings and roundabouts.

Howdo, yep grew up about 10 miles down the road from him, I see his old landrover quite often having some work done at a garage just around the corner. Thanks for watching from Alaska. Cheers

Cheers

They did'nt make it easy, the Mk1, Mk2, Mk1.5, the roundhead the square head the 1800!!!!

Thanks so much Mike for a really nice comment. Good luck and let me know how you get on, one addition add a ball to the end of the rod to make it a bit more accurate, cheers for watching.

Cheers Nick, one reason I am trying to help him on here, people watching this will understand so hoping to find it a good home.

In Lancashire, just outside Preston, Cheers

well if you want to price shipping lol

Cheers for that, I hope I look that good at that age, lol

Only you can answer that one, are they what you want? Looks, performance, price etc etc or would a modern set be better with all the benefits they have? Good luck, let us know how you get on and thanks for watching.

It's mainly for show but in relation to the volume of water there is very little surface area for the heat to escape compared with a radiator in a car so it is probably for the best, cheers for watching.

Interesting! Never had the fortune of handling nice old equipment myself but you’ve some nice videos!

@@MyLinguineThanks

Cheers Andrew, I'm glad to have worked on it and got it ready for the show season, I took the volume down a lot on the video, it's a bit loud!!

Cheers, yep I use an allen key for a while but always ended up using the allen key for something else so was never there but the hex bar doesn't get used for owt ele so is always (!!!) on the lathe waiting. Thanks for watching.

Cheers, hope it helps you.

HAHA yep normally the vans parked right behind. Should have a video of it running soon, cheers

Cheers, thanks for watching

Not sure but they were used for jewellery for years so in that range I would think, cheers for watching.

Figers crossed lol I've used them but not for any length of time like yourself but they do seem to be sorted in terms of usability etc. Cheers and when I've got it all set up I hope to prove you right.

When you press it into the rotary taper it's not being pressed in to hard but enough to hold it in and once the table is bolted down then as you lift the quill back up the collet will pull it back out, give it a try, works for me everytime, cheers.

Have you tried a simple piece of 16mm ground rod with a small corner radius on the end? It locates nicely in the taper.

Yes you can and it works well, I have a similar 1 nocking about somwhere, but I use the taper I made for other jobs, You can set it in the collet chuck of the lathe and use it to set the angle on the top slide so its easy to use for this to instesd of having 2 tools. The other reason is if the rod is not quite true in the collet the rotary table could be off but as you push the taper into the table it squares up in the collet so you know it is spot on, cheers

@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop I see, I did not consider that if the taper is not running true in the collet the rotary table bore will automatically true it up. I do prefer one ground diameter without any concentricity issues compared with two that aren't ground together.

What I was meaning out of true was your ground rod or my taper, (collets are not 100% so unless you clock it every time) the taper of the rotary can't pull the rod back but it can pull the taper back making this more accurate for me in practice, but as I always say, what works for you is the best, cheers

I was thinking of connecting it to a bicycle, keep me fit at the same time 😆

Thanks

Thanks Andrew, well it's from a school, what do you expect HAHA, and the last keeper looked after it and made steam models on it so it's not had a hard life. A friend called round last year and used my Boxford, thats up about 7" he is around 5'6" I had to get him some blocks to stand on. The funny thing is modern machines are no taller than old ones, why not? Cheers for watching Andrew.

Cheers Tony, yep it's an ex school lathe so not seen a lot of work, I have seen some that you can hardly tell they are a lathe never mind a colchester. Very pleased to be looking after this one.

The TCR was the first of the new compact bikes, a very nice bike in it's day and won a lot of races and in my opinion a good looking bike, so if it's what you like then why not. Let me know how you get on, cheers.

Cheers John, dispite the larger price tag I would think that it should be the same, I can't think of anything that would be different, maybe a bit easier as the parts are larger. Let me know if you have a go, thanks.

@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop thanks for your prompt and helpful response. Iwill keep you posted, just realised that this verson requires a monster boiler so we'll see how we go cheers for now

Hope it helped, cheers

Will have to get some tooling and a vice sorted then away we go, cheers.

Cheers Andrew, yep was better than expected.

Cheers my friend.

It's the U2508 with optional power feed, bit bigger than the EM825 but looks very similar and share some of the same parts. As you will know, Arbogas are nice to use, cheers

@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop And I just noted another machine that we have in common, the Clarkson Tool Grinder. I bought mine in the nineties, it was stuck when I bought it from a bankrupt company. I thought it had rusted stuck but it turned out that all lubricants had hardened and it probably hadn´t even been used at all since new or just been used very little the first years. Unfortunately, it doesn´t have any accessories, it´s just the machine itself. It also suffers from that well known "Shed Rust", just as yours. 😞 Anyway, I had to subscribe. Thumbs up!

This ones done a fair bit of work, but not worn badly in any way apart from the shed rust, but its nice and dry now, its not bad when the lube is hard, its a good start abd you should have a good machine.

Forgot to say here is some tooling ideas for the Arboga ruclips.net/video/qC47bGsCjwc/видео.html

@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop Thanks! I have actually seen that video but I added some more information for member "@siebelen3183" that asked about the dimensions for that nut that holds the chuck. I have that nut and that "open washer" to hold the drill chucks, just like you. But I also have other tools that uses the nut such as 22/27 mm face mill arbors and an ER40 collet chuck and an MT3 arbor head. I turned 60 mm "rings" and mounted those on the MT3 tapers to be able to lock the tools with the nut. This is another way of locking the tools to the machine. Also, an MT3 taper has more rigidity than the MT2. Propbably not a problem at all on an arbor head but might be an issue for a face mill or a collet chuck with a big (up to 32 mm) mill. Another tip, or actually a mistake: I found and bought a one-piece drill chuck/arbor on Ebay. Having a chuck and arbor in one piece seemed like a very good idea as it would mean less runout and improved rigidity. And the run-out is about half as much as on my other Jacobs chucks. But it turned out to be shorter, and the difference is where that "open washer" is meant to be, making it impossible to lock the chuck really good to the spindle. Still a good product, I just haven´t outsmarted it yet but I will some day. Probably a rainy day. 🙂

Thanks George, the spring will work up to a point, I have tried this in the past and not a fan, as you say play is introduced as the pin tries to ride up the gear with any force on the chuck (from tool post drill etc) you could use both, spring for scribing etc and locking it down for drilling ops, cheers.