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Dragons Highway är graderad 6, norsk grad. Det är egentligen 3 svårklättrade pitchar: Pitch 3, grad 6- Pitch 4: grad 6- Pitch 5: grad 6. Dessa är alla bultade, med några enstaka naturliga säkringar. De partier som är trad är lättsäkrade. Man klarar sig nog på en uppsättning kammar och ett litet kilset, för nästan alla pitchar har bultar förutom på små sektioner som är naturligt säkrade. Dock ska man ha i åtanke att så länge klättringen är i den lättare skalan (4-5) så kan bultarna vara mycket glest placerade. Ibland upp mot 10 meter mellan, utan några sprickor att lägga extra säkringar i. Det sagt så på de klurigare 6/6- movesen är det alltid välbultat. Och alla ankare är bultade, så man behöver aldrig bygga naturliga standplatser.

Mm. Lite förvånande dåligt säkrat och mögelblött insteg för en trestjärnig 5+ klassiker. Slutade med att vi tog Ritter Sport upp till standplatsen (en riktigt nice variant till Slowfox!)

Menar du att det skulle vara vågat för risken på mig eller andra klättrare att riva ner blocket? Jag tyckte att jag hade ganska god koll på att det inte var några under oss och dessutom satte fast mig i en kam för att kunna koncentrera på nedrivningen av stenen. Angående säkringar, antar att du tänker på bultar? Naturliga säkringsmöjligheter fanns det gott om!

Thank you! I'm happy I can provide som inspo/beta for you! Mot Sola was really fun!

Haha! Ibland är det dock jobbigt att klättra med stålkulor. Garn hade vägt mindre!

Kul att höra! Ja... Slingan runt en kattsilverkristall (om du såg den) var nog i desperataste laget, och liksom ett dagisbarn kunde förutspått så hoppade den ur sin plats efter några flytt... aja! Mot Sola bjöd på bättre säkringsmöjligheter hela vägen :D

Go super fast, so the cameras can't react in time, and cops can't chase you!

Thank you! So nice to hear you like my videos and composure xD Yeah, I've heard different definitions of big wall climb, and this certainly only quailfies for the most generous ones! It's neither multi-day nor aid, but a great, easy introduction to longer climbs! Going back to Hægefjell this weekend, actually! I'll try to bring the action cam to get more routes documented! Love your name, btw xD

Ah, bra fråga! Detta var bara andra gången jag ledde med halvrep, och hade bara tanken på att reducera repdrag, tänkte inte på att man kan använda det för att fördela vikten. Vad tycker du om placeringarna då? "Would you whip?"

Nice! Gotta get them trad-dad bonus points!

@@watchman1969 thank you! But what do you mean with "clear view from the via"?

@@ClimbingPOV in POV we can not have idea about the angle, for example... I mean you could show the path from sumit and base

Right! While it is somewhat visible on the thumbnail, I do show drone panoramics on my main video about the climb. That is, a Swedish vlog on this channel. The Carl Climbing POV channel is mainly for exactly uncut or minimally cut POV beta videos. I also have a third channel, Carl Månsson, where I try do make English speaking adventure and travel videos. Should maybe try to do more climbing there!

Thank you for the question! In this video, I just downclimb myself and clean the protection pieces as I go down. But usually, I climb all the way up and in that case: My belayer (the guy holding the rope when I climb) will follow me, and I will secure him with the rope from the top of the rock. As he climbs, he picks the pieces with him, and we meet at the top. As for getting down, sometimes there is a big tree at the top, and we wrap the rope around it to rappell down, and then pull the rope down from the bottom. But you could also walk around the rock on normal pathways. If there isn't a tree there is sometimes bolted anchors too, which are very handy to rappell from!

Thank you for such kind words! I'll keep posting! Comments like this make me never wanna stop

Igår, 11 Auhusti

Ah, så jag svarade på fel konto, Hej!

Yoooo! Thank you!

Thank you! Yeah, while this was my first long trad multipitch, I've eased into the habit for a while. I've done a couple of 60 meter/4 pitches fully bolted routes, and a few two-pitch trad routes before. Basically, I had the logistics of multipitch pretty much dialed in, and just had to extend my mindset from four to 8/9 pitches. I'll tell you this, I was expecting to get some irrational vertigo just from the shear height. Like I've felt looking down from bridges and balconies, but I felt nothing. Completely comfortable on small ledges all the way up. I take that as a trust certificate to my belayer and my own ability to place gear! Again, thank you for your nice comment and sharing your multipitch story! Climb on!

Thank you! I see. I reckon it's not a bomber placement, and it might have been ripped, were I to fall. And even if it held for a fall, the swing would slam me into the sloping ground. However, the climbing to the next, proper piece is easy, but exposed. The nut was rather used as "I really don't want to fall, but if I do, there's at least a chance I don't fall straight to the ground." 😅

Pretty much! One could argue that it is borderline scrambling on nice, solid granite, but as my first longer multipitch, it was nice not having the challenge of climbing difficulty or run-outs!

@@ClimbingPOVit does not look like a scramble tbh :D

I agree! It's Norwegian 4+, which translates to 5.5 in Freedom units. If I understand YDS correctly, 4 is meant to be scrambling and 5.X is meant to be climbing. So super chill climbing, but climbing non the less!

@@ClimbingPOV in slovenia we use the UIAA scale and we still have the same grades as un 1920 . So our 4s are prett hard aswell 💪🏼

Yeah, the Norwegian/Scandinavian system is based on UIAA, but I guess local variations. Anything above 2 requires actual climbing, basically.

I don't know about the speed record, but if simulclimbed by seasoned climbers, I wouldn't be surprised if it could be done in less than half an hour. About extreme ironing, I had to Google the term... And I thank you, internet stranger and friend, for introducing me to this wonderful sport. I must get myself a durable ironing board and try it out!

Wow! You were there 30 years ago? Recall what route(s) you did?

For sure I know we did. Sternschnuppe. We were there with a local. Back in 1997. We did some more but I can‘t recall their names. I always wanted to come back. But never made it to that particular place in Norway.