In my case I had problems adding water to my investment with it being hard to mix and clumping.. for me what sorted it is adding the powder to water instead and mixing manual at first...then mixer and then vacuum
Thank you. This was very informative. It can be difficult learning a new craft from youtube at times. It is nice to have found someone who didnt just learn them selves.
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge. As a person who is starting out your videos are amazing resources/tools and guides. I appreciate all your hard work in making these videos for others!❤
Thank you for the very clear instructions. You suggest using a surface protectant as well as flux. Can you suggest a surface protectant? I'm having a hard time figuring out what kind is right.
Debubbling machines are very expensive if you don't cast that often so it poses the biggest problem for home casting. I use a combination of putting my invested flasks on my fretsaw which vibrates a lot and tap out the bubbles using a stick. It takes about ten minutes for the investment to harden so you have time. The thing to remember is the thicker the investment the more air bubbles, so a looser mix the easier it is to tap out the air bubbles. the down side is a looser mix makes for a more fragile mould so the balance has to be right.. I usually mix up a small amout of investment and paint all my pieces before I build up my sprue tree to avoid bubbles sticking to the waxes, this definately helps..
My father was a master jeweler, hand engraver, and watchmaker for over 40 years. He had his own shop and also manufactured a good bit of his inventory himself. His specialty was initial monogram pieces. He would hand draw in pencil the design, then engrave, drill out the spaces, and then hand saw (wire blade) each and every piece himself. To entertain himself during this lengthy and time-consuming task, he would listen in headphones to old AM Radio broadcasts of New Orleans Saints games he recorded on casette years before. He must have done at least 10k pieces in his career, all of them one of a kind. Thank you for sharing this video. You are very talented as well.
Great video, thanks! Also, if you don't have a small torch tip so maybe it's a great idea to protect parts of the chain with things like rouge, or gouache, or liquid paper so the solder won't seep into the rope chain and make it stiff more than necessary. My first rope chain repair was pretty much a disaster because of this :)
Hi I am interested in learning how to push grave. I have no idea as to which gravers to get. I want to grave brass and copper. I want to buy a selection of the main types. Onglette, knife, round, square, etc... but the more I look into it the more confused I get. I have no idea as to what size and angle to buy. I want to engrave scrolls and such onto key rings and desert plate sized copper and small boxes etc... I've never done this before so I couldn't tell you what angle I like to grave at or depth of cuts I prefer to make. The few specialized sites I've gone to expect me to know such things already and I don't. I also can't find anything on here that covers such things in the level of detail I'm looking for. I want the size and angle and basic types best suited for a noob. I'd rather not buy a set only to find that I should have bought the opposite angle and three sizes bigger or smaller until I find the ones I actually wanted. I won't be using anything powered either. And I don't know which brand is best either. I'd also prefer not to buy from amazon but rather a specialized site for such things. I think HSS would be sufficient and most affordable for my needs. Also any links to where I can buy a hand held jig for sharpening them would also be a benefit. thanks
@@julieanctil1440 You don't mention the angle for the tool. Most sites of any repute and that aren't using Google translate Chinglish ask that you pick the angle for the tools you buy. They come in increments of one degree starting at 45° and decreasing until approximately 17° depending on the website you visit. I am assuming that there is a sweet spot range that is easier for the novice aka me to use rather than an angle outside of that range. I could trial and error the process until I find out what that range is, but I neither want to buy a bunch of the same #2 onglete or regrind one tool multiple times till I find the angle that suits me.
Has the heel already been honed in prior to retouching the face? Is it the heel or the belly of the graver you are polishing? I understand polishing the heel is crucial to a smooth cut as it is what "rides" along the bottom of the cut. The belly is the bottom portion of the graver along its length ending at the heels. Graver geometry requires a heel as the graver would otherwise have nothing to control the depth of cut. Without it the graver will just continually stab down and into the workpiece like a chisel. Creating a 0.25mm to 0.5mm heel allows the graver to glide at a specific depth as once you are at the depth of cut you want you level out the heel which is now essentially parallel to the bottom of the cut allowing it to glide at that depth continually. If you want to cut deeper, tipping the graver handle upwards while easing up and out of the cut by tilting the graver handle down while you push.
Thank you Julie. I use many different techniques when I design making my jewelry. I want each piece to be different, unique. But I’ve not as yet, attempted graving. However, watching just this brief tutorial I can already see that it would definitely be a useful technique for me to learn and put to use in my shop. I could use it in so many different pieces which would add so much more lovely texture and design. I subscribed to your RUclips channel and will be searching for more educational content from you. Again, thank you.
A brilliant series Julie. Thank you for sharing your experience. I must go back and comment on the other episodes. This project will be my most complex (for me) so far.
In my case I had problems adding water to my investment with it being hard to mix and clumping.. for me what sorted it is adding the powder to water instead and mixing manual at first...then mixer and then vacuum
Thank you! I really appreciate this!!
My spring broke in my 15mm x 8mm lobster claw clasp which wire is best to make a spring for it?
says to never cut towards a body part then jump to @4:27 lol
Man my dads gold hoop earring from the 80s puckered out oj me today and it sucks
Thank you. This was very informative. It can be difficult learning a new craft from youtube at times. It is nice to have found someone who didnt just learn them selves.
❤❤❤
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks helped me a lot
Great video
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge. As a person who is starting out your videos are amazing resources/tools and guides. I appreciate all your hard work in making these videos for others!❤
Thank you for the very clear instructions. You suggest using a surface protectant as well as flux. Can you suggest a surface protectant? I'm having a hard time figuring out what kind is right.
0:14 0:19 español
Brilliant way to save money
Debubbling machines are very expensive if you don't cast that often so it poses the biggest problem for home casting. I use a combination of putting my invested flasks on my fretsaw which vibrates a lot and tap out the bubbles using a stick. It takes about ten minutes for the investment to harden so you have time. The thing to remember is the thicker the investment the more air bubbles, so a looser mix the easier it is to tap out the air bubbles. the down side is a looser mix makes for a more fragile mould so the balance has to be right.. I usually mix up a small amout of investment and paint all my pieces before I build up my sprue tree to avoid bubbles sticking to the waxes, this definately helps..
Thank you
Thank you so much for this videos, very precise information. I just subscribe to your channel❤.
thank you. Could I ask how you remove the setter's cement from the back of the metal when finished? Thank you
Warm up the piece until you can remove as much as you can with your nails. Then soak in isopropyl alcohol.
How do you get a chart
It’s a chart we prepared at the college for the students. You can follow measurement instructions on your box of investment.
It’s a chart we prepared for the student at our college. You can use instructions and ratio on your box of investment.
You have a lovely soothing voice. ❤
Nice work
Great video Julie, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Do you have an Instagram channel to follow?
My father was a master jeweler, hand engraver, and watchmaker for over 40 years. He had his own shop and also manufactured a good bit of his inventory himself. His specialty was initial monogram pieces. He would hand draw in pencil the design, then engrave, drill out the spaces, and then hand saw (wire blade) each and every piece himself. To entertain himself during this lengthy and time-consuming task, he would listen in headphones to old AM Radio broadcasts of New Orleans Saints games he recorded on casette years before. He must have done at least 10k pieces in his career, all of them one of a kind. Thank you for sharing this video. You are very talented as well.
I used to listen to books on tape! Now luckily we have podcasts. ❤
Very good Thanks
Where is the best place to find used equipment to start?
Try to find local jeweler groups on social media. Or ask at your local jewelry suppliers.
Beware stab your hand.
THANK YOU, FOR THIS VERY SOLID BEGINNING ADVICE, ON HAND "PUSH-GRAVING"! AWESOME!!!
Is there a certain time frame that you have once the mold is dry to pour the casting or will the mold be good to sit a few days if needed?
A few days before putting in the kiln is completely fine.
Excellent
Hello, good time, you explain very well, and you also have a very beautiful voice
Best beginner tutorial for hand engraving
Please provide the shapes of hart burs
Hart burs are shapes similar to a faceted stone.
Greetings from Denmark. Thank you so much for a great step by step tutorial, this will help my goldsmith apprentice to make her first Locket box ❤
What liquid formula u r using to reconnect a damge Chain pls tq
The chain was dipped in boric acid and methyl hydrate.
Thanks!
hello do you know about rope chains
You can repair rope chains. It just needs a bit of practice.
Great video, thanks! Also, if you don't have a small torch tip so maybe it's a great idea to protect parts of the chain with things like rouge, or gouache, or liquid paper so the solder won't seep into the rope chain and make it stiff more than necessary. My first rope chain repair was pretty much a disaster because of this :)
Why did you stopped adding videos? They are so great and informative!
Best Jeweler on RUclips!
How do you dispose of the waste investment after casting?
We let it settled and dry and dispose.
Found it
Is there a part 2?
What is the solder material used to solder silver? Is it smaller silver grain?
As a amateur silver ring hobbyist, i find this tutorial outstanding, thank you.
I also looked through your videos and couldn't find the previous video you mentioned where you talk about setting up your graver.
Hi I am interested in learning how to push grave. I have no idea as to which gravers to get. I want to grave brass and copper. I want to buy a selection of the main types. Onglette, knife, round, square, etc... but the more I look into it the more confused I get. I have no idea as to what size and angle to buy. I want to engrave scrolls and such onto key rings and desert plate sized copper and small boxes etc... I've never done this before so I couldn't tell you what angle I like to grave at or depth of cuts I prefer to make. The few specialized sites I've gone to expect me to know such things already and I don't. I also can't find anything on here that covers such things in the level of detail I'm looking for. I want the size and angle and basic types best suited for a noob. I'd rather not buy a set only to find that I should have bought the opposite angle and three sizes bigger or smaller until I find the ones I actually wanted. I won't be using anything powered either. And I don't know which brand is best either. I'd also prefer not to buy from amazon but rather a specialized site for such things. I think HSS would be sufficient and most affordable for my needs. Also any links to where I can buy a hand held jig for sharpening them would also be a benefit. thanks
We start our students on onglette #2. It’s a good start but you will want to purchase a few more afterwards.
@@julieanctil1440 I have checked sites and there are tons of different angles for them which should I get? Ty
@@julieanctil1440 You don't mention the angle for the tool. Most sites of any repute and that aren't using Google translate Chinglish ask that you pick the angle for the tools you buy. They come in increments of one degree starting at 45° and decreasing until approximately 17° depending on the website you visit. I am assuming that there is a sweet spot range that is easier for the novice aka me to use rather than an angle outside of that range. I could trial and error the process until I find out what that range is, but I neither want to buy a bunch of the same #2 onglete or regrind one tool multiple times till I find the angle that suits me.
Definitely start with 45 degree angle.
Has the heel already been honed in prior to retouching the face? Is it the heel or the belly of the graver you are polishing? I understand polishing the heel is crucial to a smooth cut as it is what "rides" along the bottom of the cut. The belly is the bottom portion of the graver along its length ending at the heels. Graver geometry requires a heel as the graver would otherwise have nothing to control the depth of cut. Without it the graver will just continually stab down and into the workpiece like a chisel. Creating a 0.25mm to 0.5mm heel allows the graver to glide at a specific depth as once you are at the depth of cut you want you level out the heel which is now essentially parallel to the bottom of the cut allowing it to glide at that depth continually. If you want to cut deeper, tipping the graver handle upwards while easing up and out of the cut by tilting the graver handle down while you push.
Yes, the belly and slight heel are polished.
Thank you Julie. I use many different techniques when I design making my jewelry. I want each piece to be different, unique. But I’ve not as yet, attempted graving. However, watching just this brief tutorial I can already see that it would definitely be a useful technique for me to learn and put to use in my shop. I could use it in so many different pieces which would add so much more lovely texture and design. I subscribed to your RUclips channel and will be searching for more educational content from you. Again, thank you.
Very excited about trying this. Excellent series and project to aim for being a beginner. Thanks Julie.
A brilliant series Julie. Thank you for sharing your experience. I must go back and comment on the other episodes. This project will be my most complex (for me) so far.