Видео

Just my opinion muffler mods are useless why do it so the saw runs faster its not a race car your cutting wood that's the main reason people do it. Should have used a power tool would have been a lot quicker just saying

I'm glad that I watched your video because I see that even with the magical tool you can still break off the bolt or stud.

Drive the roll pin in on oil pump n turn it up the rest of the way

The suspension kit looks like it might be a good option. Mine came with a wrap handle so I'm covered there. The big dawgs look more like bling than anything functional since I don't think it's a very good idea to really dig them in... But I guess that's a matter of individual taste. BTW, I didn't have any trouble removing my dawgs without removing the muffler. Just use a smaller wrench. The clutch cover replacement also sort of seems blingy. And you lose your captive nuts! I was also puzzled by the guide plate replacement. I don't think there's much stress on that part... so the only difference I can think of is that the saw gets heavier with the thicker one. Anyway, thanks for a fun watch!

Excellent tutorial! Learned alot thanks for sharing, please make more on axe stuff :)

metal expands as it gets hot. so you are expanding it into the hole.. you need to heat it up and then cool it quickly to make the stud expand and contract to free it up

Good tool in wrong hands

adding weight by useless cover, what is wrong with standard cover? is smaler and lighter. full wrap handle is not practical in forestry. dont know how you feel trees in usa but in europe they have to be cut low as possible. good luck with full wrap. its not a rescue saw. dogs take out your bar lenght, you need 2" longer bar to compensate it, just more weight. did you ever worked with a saw full day? useless mods at all

Don't crank down

You do not obviously know how to deal with rusty items like the gentleman said heat the area around the bolt I live in the rust belt actually on the east coast all I deal with are rusted nuts and bolts 24 and 7 while I'm fixing cars When you live in an area and rust you are not just an automotive technician who takes things apart you are a corrosion and rust expert You have to develop certain skills and techniques to work these things to avoid breaking bolts constantly otherwise you would never get a single job done Otherwise that done cool tool thank you for the demonstration

Not my project but when he snapped that bolt I had that pucker sensation

Try Ti-DAWGS

have you tried this on o2 sensors?

I heard bucking bill say they need atiffer bar springs. He did that to his its flexible as hell he said. Felt like it was going to break. Im sure he did that star spong too but i know stiffer apringes for sure.

the c83 x-cut chains are the fastest out of the box you need to test again

always turn a stuck bolt both ways before removing...firm taps with a hammer can also shock the corrosion bonds in the threads... heat is great but the two tips on left should always be done.

That thicker guide plate is going to move your bar over how is the chain alignment on the sprocket.

Not sure why your heating the studs. Its expanding inside the block which makes it harder to remove. Take a torch and warm the block around the studs

Why not replace the guide plate if and when it wears out?

been so much faster to use a 8mm wrench to hold that nut and not remove the muffler cover. Probably been said but...

Continuously torquing the stud in one direction while it is near red hot is sure to fail as heat is softening stud , heat it as near to the block as possible and allow it to soak in to the threads and rock the stud gently in both directions to try and clear some rust from the seized threads. A few hard blows to the end of the stud can help break it loose. The welder trick is the best choice if you have the tools . You could even cut the stud off about 3/8" from the surface and place a larger hex nut over it and weld it to the stud , the heat transfers very quickly right where you want it , this works great , if this does not work you are drilling and tapping anyway.

Can you do a quick video showing how to remove the spark arrestor? For cleaning/replacement

Why beat on that thing, take care of it and enjoy it for another 50 years.

how to make the machine heavier, that's it

Why have dogs on a milling saw?

I remove broken bolts with mig welder, it the easier way. Drill a small pilot hole in the broken bolt, start the weld in the hole, and build it up until you can get a large (new) nut on it. Fill the nut with weld pool to the top, , usually come out easy, sometimes I have to repeat with new nuts if it keeps breaking loose. I would not drill and tap unless you make a jig or use a drill press to keep the drill centered and vertical. I've also done it with a stick arc welder using 1/8 rods. Try using a nut twice the size of the one that snapped off, it allows more weld filler and gives more leverage. This one was snapped off below the surface and took 4 tries with bigger nuts each time. ruclips.net/video/COpRIVGiTqo/видео.html

dish soap is better when putting those bushing is. It dries up after you get them in, so they don't want to pop out later

yeah, the suspension kit from Westcoast Saws is great for the 500i. The stock suspension leaves the Chainsaw like a wet noodle.

the Bark Box Westcoast Saws has for the 500i will up the power also. It would go right where the exhaust cover you took off goes. Great upgrade for power on the 500i Gordy says you would have to increase the fuel a bit on it to adjust for exhaust port upgrades

If you didn’t know I’m gonna tell ya you don’t have to take the exhaust off to take the dog off if

Nice video. Thank you.

If you got safety links on your x cut you got the wrong chain

Did WCS give you any price break getting all the extra parts you did? Where did you get the inner guide plate, can you send me a part number and link where you purchased it? Thank you.

With out your timing numbers i was able to tell the husqvarna x cut chain was slower then the stihl stock chain

Why no bark box, nor any air filter mod? Thanks

Thanks for your video. I am planing to buy a 500i soon, but wonder what you can tell me about/between the 462 since that was another saw I did think about. Thank you for anything you can help me with.

Just subscribe to your channel very interesting I'll be watching more of your videos you have a good day and take it easy

Nice! I’ll do the same on mine. I’m still on the fence about the wrap handle, I’ve been using saws without for a long time, but I could see some advantages.

Stihl is so behind husky on spring av that oem has to be thrown away and a after market because Stihl does not understand spring avs yet. Simple mods to make a new saw work is sadly the norm since manufactures are getting cheaper and increase the price you pay for a product.

This can also be done with a tig welder if you don't care about a certain tungsten or if you dedicate one to contaminate on stuff like this. A big tap with a 2 lbs hammer on a punch held with vice grips on the siezed fastener then a quick blast with the tig torch then a penetrating oil after it cools a little. An impact driver used carefully can sometimes help as well. That said...I've really wanted one of these heaters.

I miss those induction heaters, need to get one ASAP!

The switch in the middle of the steering wheel is the headlight switch.

Hi, that's a big girl, 42" rear rim... in Ireland we have the big fendt tractor.. I've not seen any T7 ,but I'm sure their around

Hi 1st time on your channel, great comparison vid, 👍. Nice timber.

What i found is file your chain for your setup what saw and what bar leinght you use. File the chain with round file or Square ground file try diferent raker depths and diferent filing angles for your setup and that is it. For me personaly for my ms462 25inch bar i found Square ground hand filing and rakers 0.025 works great saw is very smooth in the cut it doesnt bog down i use this setup in most cases. Except if i cut and do lots of limbing of softwood in the summer i lower the rakers to arround 0.03 and for frozen wood i also adjust rakers or filing angles if necessary. I dont realy like stock chain.

The Husqvarna C83 x-cut chain is the one you need. No safety links on it.

Unfair, that husky chain is only semi chisel, use full chisel c83

Mind you that Husvarna chain is th S83G chain which is semi chisel.

I finally got my hands on the Stihl Hexa chain too, after trying for the last 8 months. That chain is a BEAST. 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿 What more can I say, STIHL RUNS THE YARD. 😊👍🏿 #stihlpower

the c83 husky chain would be the compatible o the stihl no bumper drive links on that one