Видео

Did you change the font to merge/CSV?

@@mrcraftsmith I figured that bit out very early this AM when I took another shot at it. Thank you. :) I need to make my grid a little bigger but I get it now. Thanks again.

Haha - no worries Theodore 👍

You're welcome 🙂

Yes the image is inverted as the laser marks white on slate

I have had some limited success - haven't really had much time to work with it unfortunately - I'm in the middle of a very busy photo season (my regular business) so hoping to have more time to experiment in the coming months

@@mrcraftsmith my best so far is 25 pct tio2 and iso only via a spray gun . I saw a paper that said max light dissipation required 30 pct tio2 and spacing between particles , I assume the more fight the tio2 puts up the more it absorbs the energy from the laser? No paint companies will tell me the exact tio2 content, it must be a guarded core component in their formula. But knowing light scattering maxes at 30pct then drops off seems significant

Hi Peter - thanks for watching - I will precoat with satin finish

@@mrcraftsmith so precoat with satin, and then laser, and then leave the etched area uncoated? Thanks!

@@PeterNLewis yep precoat seems to work better for me - uncoated are post laser is fine

Thanks for watching - appreciate the feedback 😀

Thanks Gabriel - always learning

I guess the spoil board is more aimed at engraving than cutting. If you have a honeycomb then you are not going to see the alignment of your job for cutting. Probably a good video to consider doing is how to position for cutting?

Thanks for tuning in - yep - I think that is one of the keys to success, is identifying a need/problem and providing a solution. I think that has been my first problem kicking of this side hustle experiment - will have a video coming out shortly to explain.

That's the spirit, nothing great was ever achieved by thought alone. :)

Depends on the font used - I prefer fill over line which just gives an outline

Yep have tried the isopropyl alcohol mix

Glad it was helpful to you

@mikeduke57 I have used acetone - a bit messy and not ideal but it works

How so??

how do you mean "going wonky" so I better understand your problem? I have stopped using IMAG-r and I believe it has now incorporated the levels function

@@mrcraftsmith it’s just never shaded right; either way too dark or way too light,

Thanks Deon - glad you enjoyed the content

G'day Paul - I have another updated video - you will see in the description the link to access the spreadsheet with all the updated models and specifications ruclips.net/video/LrK9lIY1sow/видео.html

Thanks Sayeed - I think I did a quick video on offset fill as well - but yes it can also reduce engrave time depending on the design

Hi Eric - that's a bit difficult to diagnose without more detail

G'day Scott - I created it in Photoshop

No problem 👍 glad it was helpful

Hey Wayne - thanks for tuning in - here is the link for the Lightburn Project File tinyurl.com/mrcraftsmithbox - hope you find it helpful

Hi Carol - not really sure what you mean - slate being the dark background as opposed to white. The image needs to be inverted to get a "positive image".

@@mrcraftsmith I’ve been trialling a lot of 3d images rather than photos, for 3d I’ve found that the image pops off the slate better, or the 3d effect is more pronounced, when not inverted.

Hi Sarah - a couple of questions I guess regarding the monitor stands - what designs do you have in mind? for both the monitor stands and engravings - are you planning on personalising with engravings? is there much market for that type of product in your area - or are you planning on shipping? you could start by making a couple for friends or family and share on your socials in local community groups and see what sort of feedback you get - I did a video about that type of "no sales marketing" here - ruclips.net/video/pDfgrGE8X5E/видео.htmlsi=UW6dmuiBC-ikjeRJ - might be worth a shot :) let me know how you go

I did try a couple but similarly I couldn't get an even coating with what I had available at the time - I kinda lost interest after that and have moved onto other stuff - I do have a spray gun now that might work but i also thought of doing like a dip - it works in my head at least - my schedule with my regular business means I have very little time for that type of experimentation unfortunately :(

I'm considering a fibre laser myself - will see how we go with our initial offerings - I have to keep the number of offerings limited at this stage due to my time availability - hopefully that will change in the not too distant future :)

Glad you found it helpful :)

sorry for the delay Sebi - this might be the file you are after drive.google.com/file/d/1qal-eg1MIKSei1JHdN-U2CqRBTV2Oqem/view?usp=sharing

sorry for the delay Sebi - this might be the file you are after drive.google.com/file/d/1qal-eg1MIKSei1JHdN-U2CqRBTV2Oqem/view?usp=sharing

Well thank you - I appreciate your comment :)

No particular reason Arthur - that was one of my first videos and I was still pretty new to the scene - I was excited to share my findings

@@mrcraftsmith Ah ok. Thanks for the video & sharing your knowledge. I'm also just starting to learn, so was just thinking maybe there was another reason for it. I actually "accidentally" clicked flood-fill in the setting & then realised what a big difference it made to the speed. I really like your idea of engraving / cutting groups together, that really helps reduce time as well. Thanks again.

@@arthureschner9319 I'm pretty sure I have mentioned it in another video possibly - honestly I can't remember - I guess that's what learning is all about - there are 100's of ways to achieve similar outcomes I'm sure and that is what I love about RUclips as a platform, it gives everyone equal opportunity to share their learnings (wins and losses)

Thank you - I hope you have a nice day as well 😊

Hi Mark - if you check out this video you will find the link in the description ruclips.net/video/LrK9lIY1sow/видео.html

Thanks Brian - happy it was helpful to you 😀

Hi Adam - I believe you can do a similar effect directly in imagr software - the other alternative would be Gimp which is open source - but I have never used that program so I couldn't direct you with that one

Thanks again Darren.

@@Truthhurts230 - no worries :)

Did you do a material test first in Lightburn to find the optimum engrave settings

Thanks for tuning in - here is the link for the Lightburn Project File tinyurl.com/mrcraftsmithbox

@@mrcraftsmith thanks!

Thanks for letting me know - I apologise - I will reach out to my contact at atomstack to provide a valid link and code

Thanks Gilbert - surely a little bit of waffle is OK 😀

Hey Kaushik - thanks for watching - what CNC are you running - I'm hoping later this year to get the Sienci labs Altmill

@@mrcraftsmith I got an Aussie made one call Bluecarve CNC. Model: Bluey. Fantastic after sales support from the owner who is also very active in the owners Facebook group.

I'll take a look - thanks

Thanks Larry - I have raised this with Atomstack and they have suggested that I create an affiliate link - so just waiting on approval - you can always head to the product page atomstack.com/products/atomstack-ace-pro-v2 and see what offers they have - I apologise for the inconvenience - I have been assured the 20% discount code works - so if it is any different please let me know

Hey Luke - yep plenty of ways to achieve the same result.

Sounds like you had a bit of a rough trot with them - sorry that has been your experience - this is my first Atomstack product and I can't fault it

@@mrcraftsmith Thing with Atomstack is you can only buy some parts and some control boards. You can not buy a replacement e85 control board also the m100 has a booster control board that you can not buy replacement for if it dies leaving the m100 with only 70% output if it if booster board fails. The Wiring extension harness you can not buy from them, basically if something fails, you can not buy a lot of spares, you can not even buy spare motors. The company atomstack will not tell you what you need to fix it as well. In the case of this system 24w diode, if it come faulty... there is no control board for the system to buy if the unit come faulty like mine. You will find you can not buy replacement parts that are compatible for the 24w diode laser. I was lucky that they built the MR20 on old x20 control board hardware so i was able to fix it myself.

Sprinter. You learnt so much more by having to learn how to fix things (as frustrating as it is) you know 60% more than regular laser engravers. I've pulled my machine apart and put it back together for fun. I have learnt a lot.

Again thank you Ed - I hope you got something out of my other videos as well - as for pricing on Imagr - it is a subscription model as with most software these days - so if you feel you will get the benefit from it then for sure it is a good program - I didn't renew my subscription as my work tends to be more design based than image engraving - here is the link to the website showing pricing www.imag-r.com/pricing

Thank you Ed - very appreciative of your support :D