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Why the outer diameter doesn't matter? It's not supposed to seal the small space between the shaft and the bore?

If it is the spring and diaphragm I talk about in this video, it has to be in there and it has to be sealed. That diaphragm is only opened when the throttle is closed and high enought rpm aka vacuum. In the video, the issue is that even tho the diaphragm spring is holding it closed and there is no vacuum, it's leaking around the head of the pin on the diaphragm causing it to leak. And it can not leak. As for carbs, everything has to be right. It's not 1 thing that makes an engine run well, it's all of it. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks between the carbs and the cylinder head. Make sure your float high is right. Not just by setting rhe float arm at 90 degrees, but also with a u shaped hose on the bowl drain to check fuel level inside the bowl.

​@@jdsstegman well the diaphragm actually teared, but there's no leak between the valve diaphragm housing and the cover (even there is, can i use a sealent?). Theres no leak between carb and the engine head area especially the manifold, but im really skeptical on the coin valve also my Mechanic told me the vacuum valve and the spring is troubling too probably making the carb return to idle slower if i rev'd up over 4k rpm

@@lordmeme9965 fix what you know is bad. There is no selant that will work. Replace the diaphragm with a new one.

​@@jdsstegmantheres no one sell this diaphragm

@lordmeme9965 I'm pretty sure there are air cut off valaves available. But when I can, I will post a new video showing better what I'm talking about. But if your diaphragm is torn, that's a different issue than what this video talks about and yours will have an even worse vacuum leak. I would try and plug the vacuum like to the air cut off valave and see if that helps the idle issue.

The brass nipple on the diagram. When it is in the hole and the spring pushes it closed, air can still go around the nipple. That's where the leak occurs. So at the base of the stem, that's where I put an oring. That way if the nipple leaks, air will go down the stem but can leak past the oring. Most of the time, I new diaphragm do little. Because the aluminum hole that the diaphragm nipple goes down into is worn. I use to re sleeve them with a brass insert, but every time to let off the throttle, that diaphragm moves back and forth. So they simply wear out.

I don't think so. You are accelerating so 1: there is no manifold vacuum and the valve only opens when rhe throttle is closed. 2: at 7k you are running on the main jets in the carbs. This valave is only to add fuel for idle when the the throttle is closed but the engine isn't at idle.so, I highly doubt it. There are alot of reasons an engine will not get over a certian rpm. If you have gone threw the carbs already, then double check your work.

Thank you for your answer me@@jdsstegman

Yes. It was caused by a bad belt. With stock sea level clutching, it's possible to over drive the clutches and de laminate the belt from the inside. Can't see it, only rpm fade. My solution was a new belt and a dynamo Joe clutch kits. No more issues for the last 5000 miles. But there are many things other than a belt/drive train issues to cause rpm fade.

idle jets clogged.

Hey, im blipping the throttle and it stays high, what did u exactly do? Which O-ring did u put where?

They have to be at 90 or slightly before 90. If the floats sit down in the bowl lower than 90, when they are right side up that will be over full. As for the diagram for the enrichment an oring should be placed at the end of the shaft. The shaft had a head on it and the o ring has to go around the head down to the base. The problem is the head can wear and so can the body of the carb and they head won't stop airflow. But if there is an oring at the base then the oring seals the hole with the help of the head and when the spring closes it and no vacuum is applied it is sealed. I will try and make a video of this.

@@EvolvingNaturally no sealant. It will just stop air from entering the hole the head goes in. That head is called a pintal by the way. Lol.

@@jdsstegman Tried my bike with the o-ring and carb rebuild tonight - idles great. I've ordered a new petcock as my tank emptied into a new hole in my driveway. Thank you for the help. Looking forward to the "pintel ring"..... it will help many people!

So proper float high is a must!! Most important thing. New needles if you haven already. With the carbs up side down the float arm should make 90 degrees to the casing arms that the pin goes there. And the little swing loaded tip on the must carry the weight of the floats while upside down. You should be able to push down on the float and it should pop back up and sit 90. If not, the needle is shot. And once upside down, you can try and blow threw the fuel line with your mouth. If you can push air threw with you mouth, they is a leak. I then use soapy water so see where bubbles appear. Some times it's bad cross over fuel tube orings that will leak and it looks like the carbs overflow cuz it drips off the bottom of the carbs. In short you should not be able to make any air move with your mouth. There is no magic number on how mush psi they should hold but the mouth trick has never failed. Compressed air is too strong. Only 2 to 3 psi is enough. I will try and make a video on all this and send a link.

Also, only needles and carb kits I will use is K&L or keyster. I have had to many issues with other kits. Even oem. And I also only use needles that are ethanol resistant.

Glad it helped. I need to edit it to show where I put the oring on the secondary enrichment valave. The one that causes the vacuum leaks.

@@jdsstegman I’d love that. Would help a lot of people. You happen to have the service manual for this bike? Trying to get my 250 running, feels like something simple.

@@ctcourtking I do somewhere...... but most of the time I use and online service program. And honestly most of the time they are lacking in info. If your bike does not run, then most likely this is not your issue. All this causes is a high idle.

Есть схема подключения шлангов?

So the petcock needs vacuum from the intake to open the fuel petcock to allow fuel out of the tank. This issue I'm showing in the video, has nothing to do with the carburators getting fuel.

@@jdsstegman i know that now lol, i just help identifying what line that is cause i cant find any diagrams online to help pount me in tge right direction of which line it is that pulls the vacuum from the tank to get it to the carb

@@crittygiglio8615 Any line that is in-between the cylinder head and the butterfly of the throttle. If I remeber right, each carb had a brass nipple on the front of the carb.

@@crittygiglio8615 buy a stinking manual !

No don't plug it. Then at high rpm on deceleration the engine will go lean and backfire. And because the motor isn't under power stroke load, the backfires are technically detonation. And that's not good for an engine.

So what should I do

@Craig Zander well, if you have issues with high idle, then check for vacuum leaks anywhere they may be. And also make sure everything else is good about the carbs. Meaning rebuilt. These 2 things are the only place to start really.

Yeah, I have seen it be that high as well. With a vacuum leak it's unpredictable. These carbs are not special except they just have a remote enrichment valave that controls both carbs. And to say both carbs should be enriched identically is absurd as well. So when I scync them, I always disconnect the enrichment to keep each carb separate from eachother for each cylinder. Get a way smoother and more accurate scync that way.

If is truly a vacuum leak, then the hose should be plugged atleast.

Yes it does. This video was made because I could not get the computer to see the cdi. Turns out the translated directions left out 2 steps which have to be followed in sequence. So this video was to the seller of the unit.

The belt was as tight as I could get it without it slipping under load. And the 3 jaw chuck was junk. It may be just the one I got but I posted this video so others don't waist their money on one.

Bendede var modifiye ile cok iyi yaptim gelistirmek lazim yoksa oyuncak

It's worth a shot to put and oring in the base of the "nipple"on the air cut off valave and try the same thing you did before and see if you have made a change. I have yet to see one not leak.

And yes. They are hard to come by. But an oring on the base usually makes it seal without hurting its functionality. I think the true culprit is all these bikes are jetted to lean on the pilot. Slight air leaks on most other bikes don't act like they act on the ninjas with these carbs.

Thanks! But this is a short wheelie for me. It's just one my wife shot one day.

Yes I did.

jdsstegman what was it. I don’t have an etec. Just eager for info lol

@@Dwitter271 I ran the sled to top speed. After that all my issues started. Dealer replaced a bunch of stuff and never fixed it. Turns out I over ran the belt. Its a very long conversation on why this happens but in short, just because the sled can go 93mph one should not run it there as the belt can ride too low in the secondary and start to ride on the part that changes angles in the sheeve to strait up and down and the belt does not like the angle change. And in short the belt delaminated inside the middle of the belt. On the out side the belt looked just fine. But when the clutches pinch it, it collapses and does not hold form any more. Worse when the belt is warm. When it is ice cold it would not fade. New belt solved it. I ended up fixing it on my own. Dealer did all new secondary clutch, spark plugs, fuel pump, and a bunch of other things all the time saying they didn't know what it was. Turns out it was just the belt. I still have the sled and 2 850 skidoo's and they all get a DJ clutch kit ( best aftermarket part for a sled in my opinion) and never do I take them to max speed so I never over run the belt in the secondary.

jdsstegman do you mean. Overall speed? Or just track speed? I’m a mountain rider, boondocker, etc. I hold my sleds wide open when I’m climbing. My old 2006 skidoo rev 800 H.o. mod sled, had a fading issue before, and I never really noticed it to bad, because it wouldn’t do it to bad but towards the end it got worse, so I figured I needed a new belt or my clutches needed adjusting maybe even carbs cuz it felt like it was almost bogging type of deal. So i replaced belt and boom. Mine as well. Never ran at 8000 or whatever it is like it did before. Basically after the belt. It was a whole new monster. Amazing. What belts do you run?

@@Dwitter271 So when you look at the secondary clutch, the sheeves have a taper to them. Then the taper in the bottom ends up strait so the clutches can close fully. The belt should never come off the taper and down into the strait part where the clutches touch when closed. The sheeve taper matches the angle of the belt. When the angle of the belt get so far down in the secondary it hangs off into no where. This can wreck the belt inside. Say you take a belt and squeeze it in a vise. The layers inside the belt would separate. Thats what can happen. That's what happened to mine. But of course I new my clutches did not need rebuilt or anything else. If it wasn't under warrenty, I would have done the work myself and I would have thrown on a new belt but the dealer said they would take care of it. Also at that time I was running the stock sea-level skidoo clutch kit. They dont spend the time like aftermarket people do. Best mod for a sled in my belief. As most people who have put an aftermarket clutch kit in, they are better.

Yep.

Nope. If fuel comes out the overflow, then the needle and seats are allowing too much fuel into the carbs. Best bet is to rebuild your carbs and make sure you set the float hight properly.

Where do u place the o ring

@@gerardmcconnon9155 The diaphram has a tip on it made of brass. Put the oring over the tip and slide it down to the base of the diaphram.

@@jdsstegman Thank you very much It has me tortured

Can you make a video were you show how to put the oríng please?

I posted a new video. Look up ninja 250 enrichment valave. I'm not sure how to send a link so just look it up.