Видео

ruclips.net/video/GQHuIUQSTr8/видео.html

It acts as a color enhancer.

@@discus1018 Won't the spice itself cause long term problems?

@@EuroGupper I’ve never had any issues. It’s pretty commonly used among breeders and you’ll find it listed as an ingredient in some of the beef heart recipes out there. I would think it could possibly make the water a little cloudier or the discus might not eat it if there’s too much added, but I wouldn’t think it would harm the fish.

Sorry, I just saw the comment and question. 125 L is probably too small for discus in the long run. You could keep 3 inch (7.5 cm) or smaller in an aquarium like that for the short term, but as they grow, they will probably need a larger setup. I typically feel like 55-60 gallons (210-260 L) is the smaller end for an aquarium for discus. If you really wanted to keep discus in a 125 L aquarium I would go no more than 3 if they are bigger than 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) and you’ll really have to watch for issues with aggression.

@@discus1018 thanks a lot I agree . Here énergie prices increased madly that the reason the hobby became difficult. My 125 L is planted aquarium with some fishes . Yes 3 discus max. Thanks

Thanks!

I started to build one a long time ago and then got sidetracked, never got around to finishing it, but it would definitely look better with a canopy!

Thanks for the comment and good luck with the new setup!

@@discus1018 Thank you, at the moment iam cycling a 54L aquarium

Thanks!

He’s a leopard snakeskin, but I’m sure either would be stunning!

It's tough to give an exact recommendation. It depends on the size/age of the fish, how many you have, as well as how often you are comfortable making water changes (the more you feed, the more often you'll need to do water changes). Many breeders feed 3 times per day. Mine are now all adult discus (around 6 inches) and I feed them 1-2 times per day with a total of around 2 cubes of beef heart mix that I make. I also feed one cube of blood worms every few days as well. Younger discus should be fed 3 times a day. Here's a link with information regarding feeding that Stendker Discus put out a number of years ago: www.diskuszucht-stendker.de/plugins_en/pdfs/3.2_Fuetterung_und_Futter_von_Diskusfischen_en.pdf

Thanks!

They are cooked. Some people prefer raw, but I've never had issues with cooked. It makes up a relatively small percentage of the total mix so you could go either way.

@@discus1018 Thanks!

It really depends on what you’re going for. If there are other fish in the tank, a lot of plants or hardscape, etc. then you’d need less. That being said, I would think 10-12 adult discus would look good in a 125. If you had a lot of plants and driftwood I’d go with 8-10.

Ya, I have a different video with the recipe and steps to making it: ruclips.net/video/xhIXStDL8n0/видео.html

Thanks! I think the aquarium looks better today than it did when I made this video! I've dialed back the lighting some and have everything balanced so algae is minimal now. To keep the glass as clear as possible, I wipe it down with a rough cloth from the inside every time I clean it and then use a scraper to keep get rid of any stubborn algae. The lighting also helps give the fish a glow, but I've switched to a fluval 3.0 and dialed it back some. The fish still look great, but there's not quite as much red glow as I had with the color enhanced light of the finnex monster ray.

I've had the background for about 3 years now. The finish on it has held up well. I've only cleaned it with a soft sponge and am happy with how it looks. I do think the finish will come off with a bristled brush or heavy cleaning, though. A few months ago, a couple of the pieces came unglued from the back of the aquarium and I've procrastinated reattaching it. As you know, the process of attaching it is tedious and I think I'll have to make adjustments to the cut outs in order to keep the background from coming off again.

No problem, glad it helped!

The video is just showing that a properly set up sump system won't overflow either the tank or the sump if there is a power outage or clogged drain. As long as the sump volume is correct there won't be enough water to overflow the aquarium if the drain is plugged and water continues to pump into the aquarium. Also, the sump should have enough capacity to hold water that drains into it in case of a power outage. A better (but more expensive setup) would have a second safety drain in case the first is plugged and a battery backup system for power outages (I've since added this in case of prolonged power outages). However, the purpose of the video was to show that a properly measured system won't overflow in either situation (a common misconception). You are correct that if you are out of town and no one is checking on the tank or feeding fish there would be problems. Not only would the pump likely be damaged running dry for days on end, but the water in the main tank would not be heated (if the heater is in the sump). When I'm out of town, a neighbor checks on the house and tank. I don't have a water top off on this tank in the video, but they are easy to set up and can take care of the problem of evaporating water. I have one on a reef tank and have had no issues. This is what I use: (www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunze-osmolator-universal-3155-auto-top-off.html)

The pictures on the Discus Hans site are relatively poor quality and don't represent the beautiful color of the actual fish. I did have a color enhancer light on the tank when this video was filmed, but the video itself was not enhanced. The only light on the tank right now is a Fluval Plant 3.0 and the fish still look great.

For a couple reasons. Plant roots tend to get caught up in them and the pool filter sand I'm using is too fine for the undergravel filters I'm aware of. I'm not a big fan of them in general because they tend to get clogged up over time which decreases their flow rates and leads to anaerobic pockets. They also don't provide any mechanical filtration. Hope that helps!

They get fed a total of 2-3 cubes of beef heart split up into 2 feedings daily. I also give a cube of blood worms a few times a week. As of right now I make a 70% water change every 4 nights. Depending on work and other obligations it can be changed anywhere between 3 up to even 7 nights in rare instances.

@@discus1018 if i feed them heartmix daily will I have to do water change daily I bought new discus that only eats heartmix

@@thugstermlbb630 You are correct that by feeding beef heart you will need to do more frequent water changes, but you should not need to do daily water changes. I currently do a 70% water change once every 4-5 days. One thing you can do is to monitor your nitrate levels in the tank and if they are trending upwards you would need to increase the frequency of the water changes. That’s a pretty good gauge for a water change schedule.

From a gph standpoint you will probably be ok. It's really more about your maintenance and water quality in the end. If you make frequent water changes and keep the nitrate levels in check you will be fine.

Thanks! I think it really just depends on the discus you have. I've never had problems with my discus eating smaller fish, but it can definitely happen.

No problem, glad it helped!

I've had the background for about 2 1/2 years now. The finish on it has held up well. I've only cleaned it with a soft sponge and am happy with how it looks. I'm sure if someone used a bristled brush (like a toothbrush) they would take the color/finish off quickly and I can only guess that is the cause of some of the complaints you have heard. My biggest issue is the material it's made of. It's essentially like trying to submerse a lifejacket and keep it there for years. A few months ago, a couple of the pieces came unglued from the back of the aquarium. If this happens there is no other alternative than to completely drain the aquarium and try to reglue it, and that sucks. I moved the fish to a temporary tank and have yet to go through the process of reapplying the pieces. As for the company, I never had any issues. They always responded quickly to my emails and questions, but I can only speak to my experience. I would say it was a little misleading that the company seems to be based out of Canada, but the background is made and shipped from Eastern Europe which of course means delivery takes a great deal longer than expected. That being said, whenever I emailed about progress and when it would ship they always responded quickly and were friendly.

It's are about 48 x 12.5 x 24 inches (122 x 32 x 61 cm)

@@discus1018 thank you

If I remember right, they wanted the inside dimensions of the tank. I sketched out a diagram for them with the dimensions along the inside of the tank and around the overflow boxes. Make sure to provide room for error. If I had it to do again I would have them make more room around the overflow boxes and make a the background a little smaller so it fits easier in the tank. I've had some issues with one of the pieces that doesn't quite sit up against the glass. It finally came off and I am in the process of draining the tank to try and glue it again.

I mix RO and tap water to keep my pH around 7. At the time this video was made I was mixing it right before adding it to the tank so it was not aged. I've never had issues with that although I know some people will say that aging the water is a must. I set up a water changing system about a year ago that allows me to pump the heated mixed water into the tank for water changes. Because the water is now stored and heated, it is aged, but that's more a result of the system I've set up and not intentional aging. I believe Stendkers in the US are raised in a pH around 7, but can certainly tolerate a range of pH values. Having kept them for a number of years now I would agree that they would probably do fine up to 8. I've personally kept them as low as 6 and as high as 7.5. I would say the "safest" pH is 6-7, but Stendkers are relatively hardy and can handle parameters that other breeder's discus can't.

@@discus1018 thanks. My tap water is between 7.5 and 8. In my tank it's always 7.5 somehow. I'll buy some all in one test strips to keep things checked. Before getting any. It's a juwel rio 350.

@@TinoushGTR That sounds good, I would think from a pH standpoint you will be fine at those levels. I'd also pick up a KH testing kit online. They're not very expensive and will allow you to monitor stability a little better. pH can vary throughout the day, but the KH values should be stable in the setup.

@@discus1018 thanks for the tip

Thanks for the question! 55 and 60 gal tanks have a fairly narrow footprint. I would be a little reluctant to put a 3D background in a tank with those dimensions given how large adult discus can grow. If the 3D background is more than an inch deep I probably wouldn’t use it. A better option for a 3D background setup would probably be a standard 75 or 90 gal if you have the space.

Do you know where to buy a 75 gallon and if I could return the 55? My local petco doesn’t sell 75 at least I think! Thank you for the suggestion! I had one more if you don’t mind. Do you think it would be ok to have plecos with the discus?

I’m sorry! I just found out my local petco does have 75 gallons!

@@London.Donahoe If you recently purchased it and haven’t done anything to it yet I would think most stores would let you return it for credit to buy a 75 gal instead. Have you already purchased the background? Which background were you thinking of using? I’ve never kept plecos with discus. I know several people who have without problems, but there are people out there who have had issues. I would think you could add one and watch closely for problems. If anything happens I would have a quick trigger to remove the pleco and either give it away or sell it to a local fish store. However, I would bet that it will end up being fine

Thank you for all your help!

Thanks for the comment! The background's black, but the substrate is white (pool filter sand). They were about 3" when I got them and are full grown now (6"+). I've played around with different water change schedules, but have been doing more frequent changes for a while to keep nitrates at a reasonable level. They are fed beef heart which is very messy and pollutes the water pretty bad. As a result, I typically do a 75% water change every 3-4 days. I've tried 7 day and even 10 day schedules, but the nitrates grey pretty high. I've set up a water change system where I store water for the tank and can pump it directly into the tank with 5/8" tubing so the water changes only take about 30-45 minutes now which really helps. I need to start making more videos again and I can show the setup I use. Hope that helps!

It’s about 227 liters (60 gal).

My tank is set at 84°F (29°C), but you will see ranges of 82-86°F (28-30°C) with most people keeping discus at 84-86°F (29-30°C).

It has held up very well. The only damage is from a careless mistake I made while siphoning where I chipped a small piece out. Otherwise, the color and detail is essentially the same as when I installed it.

Thanks!

Sorry for the delay, I was out of town this weekend. I used to cover the aquarium with a standard aquarium lid, but I've had no cover on it for the past year or two. I personally prefer no cover for more predictable lighting, but I'm not sure there's a right answer. I think it's more of a preference. I add water to the tank once every few days to top it off.

Discus101 thanks for the reply.

@@nizarbreathus2440 No problem!

As long as the canister filter is large enough for proper filtration you should be fine.

Thanks for the comment! I really enjoy the tank and the background. It has held up well so far and I've had no issues. Good luck with your tank! Red Spotted Severums are beautiful and will look great in that tank!

She did end up peppering some over the years, but not too bad.

@@discus1018 so how are they now?

@@discus1018 what did you did to cure that

@@mjhobbies6078 Peppering is a natural phenomenon in pigeon strains, but can be limited to some degree. Some people believe it can increase when they are kept in a tank with dark substrate or dark backgrounds. I like the dark background in this setup so I stuck with it. The white substrate may have helped limit the peppering to some degree. Peppering is permanent, but may very in intensity with the time of day or mood of the fish. Over the years I've learned to look at it as just part of the fish's coloration and personality. It's unique to each one. A few of the discus from this video recently died from old age and some gill hyperplasia, but the others are doing well. I have a few more that were recently added to the tank (a German Wonder and a White Leopard.

Thanks for the comment! A canister filter should run 24/7. What are you feeding the discus? Were they eating prior to this and then stopped or are they new to the aquarium and haven't started eating yet?

Thanks for the reply, they have been with me 2+ weeks now and found they have been going to the corner of the tank when I start feeding from day one, One started eating granules from yesterday, (red melon 2+ inches only still staying near filter inlet), others are 3 and 3+ plus inches and always looking for food when I pass near by. I feed discus grain d-50 plus two times a day and blood worms and beef hearts two times a week. I have one more question that I have 3 pearl gouramies , 2 gold gouramies and 2 red dwarf gouramies in my tank, they are eating those food and looks their belly looks big, what will happen to them if it goes like this or I should get rid off them?

@@nizarbreathus2440 It sounds like you are feeding a really nice variety of foods. I'll start by saying there are a lot of opinions and preferences when it comes to discus and you would likely get a different recommendation from someone else. With that being said, I would probably remove the gouramis for the time being. If you are able to put them in a different tank, that would probably be best, but if that's not an option you could give them away or to a local fish store. Sometimes it's best to allow younger discus a chance to come into their own and gouramis can occasionally be aggressive. In addition, if the gouramis are aggressively eating the food, there's less time for the small discus to become interested and try the food. New discus can sometimes be pretty slow to start eating and it can even take up to 4 weeks before they eat! Keep offering the foods and I think they will all be eating soon. If you want try flavoring the food to encourage them to eat you can buy some garlic guard by seachem, but I bet they will start eating if you continue to offer food. I would also recommend feeding beef heart more often than twice a week, but if the other discus are eating and happy you can keep with what's working. Hope that helps!

Discus101 thanks for the information, you are right, after seeing the yellow one started eating I strongly feel the other will start eating soon.

@@nizarbreathus2440 I'm curious to know when the other one finally starts eating. Keep me posted!

I used flex seal, JB water weld, and silicone to attach it to the glass. I put the pieces in the aquarium without epoxy first to see where the contacted the glass and concentrated the epoxy to those locations, but in the end I basically put it all over the back and bottom of each piece. I even ran a bead of flex glue along a lot of the edges where the background and glass come together on the floor of the aquarium. Since this will be hidden by gravel I went overboard with the amount of epoxy there. I also used some epoxy between the background sections to connect them to each other. I used the JB water weld on the bottom because it seemed to form a really solid attachment. I can't tell you enough that when you think you've used enough JB water weld and flex glue, USE A LOT MORE! I thought I used enough the first time and it came off. Save yourself the trouble and put a bunch of the epoxy on and allow it to cure before adding gravel and water.