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Found that "drug store" photo development is now way more expensive than dedicated development studios. Walgreens charges $16-$24 per 24 roll and won't return negatives. My local photography store charges $12 for development and basic scan.

Really enjoyed the video, everyone has at one or two points in time set the ISO at the wrong setting. Awesome to see you suffer😂😂😂😂. Thanks for sharing

6: 48. 6: 58 👌

If I push a 400 2 stops do I tell the person developing the film to develop at 400 or at 1600?

0:59 Welp, your content is getting blocked in China.

Kodak Gold 200 is such a perfect, reliable choice for film photography. I’ve used it with my Minolta X-700, and it always delivers great colors and sharp results. Definitely a go-to film!

Gas affects all hobbies, guitarists are prime victims🤑

The portra 400 is not made in nc and vc from 2010 i read on wikipedia so how is this new portra compared whith the nc from before 2010? If i takethem to the lab

Thank you so much for this video!!! Totally subscribing ❤

I'll be getting my first film camera next week (a kodak m35) sonthanks for the great video.💜

Getting called out for a) spraining my back 2) CrossFit and 3) lugging around a heavy film camera................. I feel attacked 🤣

Good🎉🎉🎉

Sunny 16 rule is great in a pinch, but you should always adjust your shutter speed so that your aperture is prioritized. Most lenses have a peak sharpness around f/11 or f/16. I try to never shoot stopped down past f/16. If i want a slower shutter speed, i make sure i set my aperature appropriately for the scene and my lens, and then use an nd filter if necessary.

Mistake #1 is using it in 2024. Do you have a typewriter too?

I used my phone camera as my light meter. And also as a preview of the photo.

great job, what about a video about kodak eastman double X

nocturnal gang!!🦉

Most important part was metering. And this guy rushed.. And he was super slow with basic s* earlier

my favorite film camera is Pentax LX

was your film reticulated? the bridge shot

The Nikon FM2 is a great camera. I cannot overstate its value for beginners who want a camera that is just as well suited for professional purposes.

Just know that for your metering and sunny 16 rule. Pretty much comes from hoe exposure value are set and how you meters are calibrated. Camera meters generally run from EV1 to around EV18 measured through a 50 mm f/1.4 lens with ISO 100 film. With EV1 at 1 second at f/1.4 and EV18 at 1/1000 at f/16. EV15 being your typical sunny day at 1/125 at f/16. The 1/125 speed isn’t the closest shutter speed to 100 it is what it is calibrated for. 400 is two stops different in both ISO and shutter speed. So 1/500 is exactly two stops different and what is calibrated for 400 ISO film. While it may seem like it’s the closest to the films ISO. It’s the correct setting.

I was an army photographer, I was issued a Minolta X700. My boss has a Canon F-1. I was envious of his camera. Was it better? Maybe. It was a professional camera. It shot up to 1/2000 of a second, and you could change focusing screens. But did it take better pictures? No, it didn’t. He had been an army photographer his whole career in the army. I was only one for a little over two and a half years. He was a good photographer and I learned from him. But I also was awarded the Army’s version of the Pulitzer Prize. The Kieth L Ware award. I don’t know if he got it in his time in the Army, but it tells me it’s the photographer and not the camera that gets the shot. You have to know how to get the most out of your camera.

He forgot to mention, this slick presentation was brought to you by Adobe. "You must edit," so enslave yourself to Adobe where you will pay annually what the software used to cost as a lifetime package, broken into monthly installments, no matter how much or how little you use it. As a bonus, just as you're learning the interface, Adobe will randomly relocate the controls without warning. For those who opted to forego a child to pay the Adobe bill so they can spend twice as many hours editing photos as taking photos, more power to you. Add the deer to your duckpond shot, color the dead winter grass as if it is spring, and bring that moon a million miles closer: more power to you. That is art and takes an artistic vision to create. It's not photography though, which is a different art, just as photography is not painting. Granted, there can be a bit of art in how film is developed, and there is definitely art in how an image scanned or printed -- Ansel Adams famously spent many hours burning and dodging to get a print the way he wanted, and that was art. My point is beginners should not be bullied into these parallel or ancillary hobbies/artistic endeavors. If part of the reason one enjoys photography is to escape the computer and "touch grass," invasive editing after certified training in yet another application is not required, especially for a beginner. Use a good lab (as he suggests), find one that produces scans how you like, get some actual prints made. Enjoy photography first, then build skills and knowledge in taking better photos that is largely static since the 1930s: composition, exposure, focus. The shelf-life of that knowledge and those skills is the rest of your life: they never become obsolete. Develop your own style and express your artistic vision. There will be plenty of time to learn processing, scanning, and editing when what you envision requires those endeavors to achieve.

This was uploaded in 2023. Outside of certain cities in Japan, where can one find local film developing like in pharmacies and grocery stores? Even in Japan, when I was last there over 5 years ago, the film processing was in store related to photography or crafts. I remember a sign in a Texas Walgreens back before 2015 warning customers they were going to cease film processing by a certain date...just in time for film's comeback. Most large cities have a few labs to this day, but they are dedicated labs. Despite my quibble, this is very well presented.

not everyday you’re seeing Ryan Reynolds teaching photography 😆

This is the best intro video to film. I'm an experienced film photographer but I clicked on here to see if I needed to brush up on anything or learn something new. I didn't learn anything new but i watched it all the way through and it's exactly what i would want to hear being taught . Great job and I love the Nikon FE. I have an FM. You are should do a follow up video on using flash . I almost never use fill flash. I see a lot of photogs skip the speedlights in favor of heavy off camera flash which is an obvious logistical issue.

This video was great! I was recently gifted two old film cameras. A 1950s Kodak Junior 1 and a 1927 Ensign Carbine No. 4, so a bit older than the ones in this video. The 1927 camera has all of the settings like aperture size and shutter speed but the shutter is broken, so until I can get it repaired I have to use the Kodak which has literally zero options. Fixed aperture size, fixed shutter speed, fixed focus distance etc. Anyway today I shot my first ever roll of film using the Kodak and I am taking it to be developed tomorrow.

Just got a 3 pack. It may not be porta800 but my nikon F5 will tear it up.

I really like your videos! I’m new to photography and got myself a Nikon fe. Do you change your settings often?

great video and love the photos. i don't think i'll ever get the chance to visit manitoba but it seems quite interesting! keep up the great work!

I have never shot or seen any Portra that blue saturated. That is way more saturated blue than any Ektar I have ever shot. Any Portra I have shot or seen before this have more of a pastel red/pink hue. Curious what it was developed with and or how to get those very blue hues.

Beautiful content, thank you!

Cool photos! Was just wondering if you edit your photos or if it came out like that through the developing process

There is a different way to use the 'zone focus' markings, especially if you don't have time to focus properly when presented with a short opportunistic shot. When I was a beginner, I learned about hyperfocal distance, which uses the same markings on the lens, but you can preset everything long before you actually take the shot. Firstly, set your lens to a fairly small aperture, and then set the infinity point on the focus ring to the appropriate number on the 'zone' markings. Any shot you take like this will be acceptably in focus from fairly close out to infinity. On the lens you show at 16:06 , using f/8 as the aperture, your hyperfocal distance would be from infinity down to approximately 8 feet. If you used f/11 or f/16, this range would be even greater. This works especially well on aperture priority cameras, for obvious reasons.

This was super helpful I now understand how to adjust my settings:) Thank you!!

Does anybody know this camera “prontor 125 camera voigtlander”? I am new to film photography and I’ve found it in a vintage market.

I just bought a roll of portra 400 to use in my Canon AE-1 I recently bought. I grew up with film but we only had point and shoot cameras. Most of them were 110 film. My understanding is that it's best to shoot one stop over exposed for portra 400. Is this correct? If I'm not mistaken, I believe I would set the ISO knob to 200 and then go from there. I think the roll was around $17 US. I think it'll cost about that much to develop plus digital copies. I forgot how decisive you have to be with film. You only have a certain number of shots on a roll. It's going to cost you for every shot so you better make every shot count. I think on the long run it'll make me a better photographer worth my digital cameras. I think it'll help me see my shots better because I'll have to slow down and think about it.

Hey Now that grain is nice! I love film, but I hate when film photographers get political. If you feel the same way please don't watch my latest short all about TRUMP & BIDEN and Sprocket hole 35mm photography. SUBBED! Thanks for putting up with my political rant.

great video! i hope to visit tofino one day, love the images you've captured, film photography is so much fun

After 50 years of shooting, I have settled on these wonderful cameras: 1) Linhof 617s Technorama 2) Fujica GW690 3) Nikon F and Nikomat Ftn 4) Canon F1 5) Canon VT Deluxe 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟📷👍

Remember, the quality of film photography is in the lens and film you use

The cameras shown [2:15] is a great selection! Yes, I'm one of the people who says editing the scans is overdone. It's an extra step so the photographer can pretend they're doing even more to create the image. Whatever they took a picture of already did most of the work. If the effort was put into selecting the film, it seems likely that people will undo that when editing the scan. I know, I know.. I'm... right... 😂

HP5 is already very grainy, don´t you get too much grain with +2 stops?

Are the film rolls in the room with us?

Thanks for this informative video and really vibrant pics. For the M6, did you meter for the shadows and shoot at box speed?

“How many metaphors should we use?” “ALL OF THEM” “but..the viewers won’t understand with so much nonsense and only odd comparisons.” “IT DOESNT MATTER… ICE CREAM, PIZZA, CRAZY EMOTIONAL FEELINGS INSTEAD OF RELEVANT FACTS!” “dear lord what are we about to watch”

I don't think children should be exposed to photography until they’re more developed.

Man you make excellent videos. Thanks for the effort you put into them.

Kawatare-Doki