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looks a little petite,

could you run this on filtered waste oil mixed with diesel?

I saw a ford in 1973 4 orange and black it caught my eye as a great car this one sure looks good today.

Awesome, thanks. Hadn't occurred to me that such a thing existed. Look's about £100 ish which is high for the one-off project you probably have in mind but I bet it comes in handy so many times. I was watching JohnnyQ90 who's bought a tiny spot welder ruclips.net/video/-0t63ycXKlc/видео.html Over £200 but looks so handy I'm sure I'd use it during breakfast to fix something.

If your power supply is anything like mine it will have large capacitors in it. This means that it will take a second before it actually dies when power is cut. I used a standard double pole 12v relay, and powered the coil separately with a small 12v wall wart that dies instantly when power is cut. This switches to the battery before the mains power supply has reacted to the loss of power. The result is a seamless switchover with absolutely no indication anything has happened on the screen. Its a little more bulky and complicated to wire up, but it seems to work more seamlessly than this device. I wired the heater to mains through the normally open contacts and the heater to the battery thought the normally closed contacts of the relay. I powered the relay coil with a different power supply that doesn't have a delay when power is lost. I added a switch to the battery, and have the battery hooked up to a trickle charger that only charges while the heater is powered. In all I need 3 mains sockets to run the heater. I put a 3 socket power bar in a box with the battery, charger and relay. I put a battery isolation switch on the box. So to use the heater I just turn on the battery and make sure the screen lights up, then switch on the power bar. I hear the relay click over to the mains power, the battery is disconnected and starts charging and away we go. Not the simplest or most elegant solution, but it works seamlessly with not a hint of anything happening when mains power is switched on or off.

Nice one Andy. It doesn’t seem to have a loud tick from what I could hear on your video.

Hi Andy, thanks for creating these videos for us to learn from, it’s truly appreciated indeed. I was wondering if you could post a link to that specific heater that you have as I have been looking to buy one for a little while now. Many thanks in advance.

You can change it back to a single port cheaply. you will soon want one I think. those four ports are a pain in the backside, in my opinion. they are hard to keep in the direction you want them in . but it sounds like you may not be even using the 4 pipes anyway! The 12 Volt cable seems a bit thicker than I've seen before. That's a plus. Generally, when I see. pipe clips that are perforated all the way through. I don't use them because they will give way at a certain point. The original Jubilee clip only ever had an indent for the thread to run in. It wasn't completely perforated and there are copies still made to this day and some suppliers do send them. but the proper pipe clips marked 22m to 24m. with the number 8m.hex head for spanner adjusting, is my favorite as they are much broader, so grip more area to seal the most important Exhaust pipe connection. I like the controller. It looks a bright clear lcd. not seen that one before. does it do temperature control, it would be even better for your house if it does, all you would need to get advantage of that, would be fit an extension cable for the controller to be in the house and be a proper thermostat. anway it looks really good for the money. good luck with it. PS Don't try fitting it the snow, like I did last night. for interest I paid £80 for 90ltrs. from install Edinburgh sat morning so very similar price as you

Haven't used my gas for gas,,it's very cold,,but can't afford main gas supplier

I'm trying to save fir one

No 5 should be 5 cfm per hour, the smallest normal oxy-acetylene nozzle. A number 1 is for tiny jewelry, rings etc.

Good for lead burning, plumbers use them all time

Not put my nose where it doesn’t belong, but maybe secure your gas tanks, especially the Oxy. I’ve seen bad shiz happen , in person, when an Oxy bottle’s valve is sheered off due to gravitational acceleration. Otherwise, excellent video!

Just wondering how accurate your digital thermometer is. 20 degrees C is nowhere near hot enough that you can't put your hand on it. I would say 50 degrees C might be close, so it seems that your thermometer is off by about 30 degrees C.

Excellent mate.

Well done 👍

I think the best mod would be an oxygen sensor on the exhaust and then recirculate gasses to keep it just above zero. This should minimise the amount of air going through the heater and therefore increase the heat output, i.e. not heating up unused air.

The one iv got wont run on kero have to cut 50 50 with diesel

Need to duct return air into heater as you are drawing cold air and fumes into the heater and then into the house.

There’s a simpler way of doing this. Just fit the 12v mains supply to the heater and the battery in parallel. If it’s adjustable then tune it up to about 13.5-14v. This will float charge the battery continuously and if the mains fails, the battery picks up the slack and runs the heater with no failover switching needed.

The fuel consumption is, in part, determined by the unit’s rated heat output. I’m assuming the unit is rated at 5Kw? If so, a 5Kw heater will consume approx 500ml of fuel per hour (assuming it’s on Full Load for the entire period)! As for “heating the house”, a “typical” domestic boiler is rated at approx 25Kw so with only 5Kw at your disposal and, more importantly, only one warm air outlet to distribute the warm air from I’m unsure how you can warm an entire house with a relatively small heat output and such poor distribution? I am of course happy to be proved wrong!

Circulate? So, if you want to improve it put the hot gas in at the top at an angle and out at the bottom. That way itvwill swirle around the bottle as it cools. Better still just use a large aluminium radiator.

A suggestion: If you put a 90 degree L-shaped fitting on the input inside the tank and angle it slightly upward, you should get the exhaust to spiral around the inner surface of the tank.

Trials bikes,best kept secret in motorcycling!

Find an old central heating radiator, mount it on the wall put the hot gases through that, nothing is going to explode

I measured my heater today at 3A when running and 7.5A while starting (0.03A standby). As you were posting this video I was ordering a 12v 10A laptop style power supply for my heater install (£20 off Amazon). I did consider running it off a small 12V car/bike battery and connecting the battery directly to a small 2/3A charger. The battery can cope with the startup current and the charger can keep the battery topped up - all should be OK so long as the battery keeps its charge. It would also act like this video and run without mains power.

For a camper someone should design a tank that connects to the exhaust.

Nice to see someone heating their home using a desktop computer.

without the cover on it will over heat

I wonder if a radiator and a fan would work or maybe the heat would be too much.

If you turn that cylinder into a sand battery, you would get a lot more energy out of it. Love the idea though, really cool project!

Looks like a good investment 👍🏻

at least with gas condensing boilers, the condensate is corrosive to some metals. I don't know whether the condensate from diesel would corrode your bottle. I imagine the designers of the heater made sure that the exhaust temp produced no condensate. If you cool the exhaust enough to make condensate, you would need a drain,

I had the same issue. I decided to buy the board & display to go with it. They're wired differently, your old display won't work with your new board.

build around the gasbottel with bricks do it like a swedish masonry stove of bricks and have a huge sand depot around it also,that heated up will keep the cost down alot sir

Nice! But the more time the exhaust gasses have to give of the heat to the steel the better. Cutting the to off and lay in some bricks to elongate the path and store more heat. The paint? My guess is that the tank is powdercoated. which is often a pigmented polyester resin which get baked on. Now you are baking it again and if to hot will burn off. One note though. I don't know if the epoxy resin used to seal the tank can handle the (repeated) heat and leakage might occur over time. Be carefull! And do use a well placed CO alarm! People have died from CO poisoning from dodgy diesel heater connections.

Well I enjoyed the video, and the diesel heater works well for you. I live in northern Canada and mix kerosene diesel 50/50 in the real cold days. Kerosene does not have the lubricating properties of diesel, so on a steady diet have a spare pump on hand. As a fuel kerosene works well and a clean burn.

I'm currently fitting one of these outside my daughter's room. Her room is a 1980s extension which doesn't hold the heat well so the rest of of the house is ok and the central heating doesn't kick in. Currently have it mounted with vents (I 3d printed switchable internal/external air intake) and just fitting burner intake/exhaust and electrics. Never used one before but as I have a hundred plus litres of waste diesel/kerosene I thought I'd give it a try at essentially zero cost.

Can you raise the battery up next to fuel tank so that it's not next to the hottest part of heater?

got mine for 60 usd on a 11.11 sale from china. here in the usa. price was so low i thought it was a scam and was surpised when it showed up. the old lcd style and it said it was 12v but runs fine on 30v. got me a 30v 5a power supply for like 6 bucks. theyre about 1/5th the price of the 12v power supplies everyone else says you need. if your input voltage is higher then you can use less copper to make the power supply and cheaper wires, less chance of the wires melting when it starts up. I like the black color you painted everything lol

If you're going to cut the top off the gas bottle, you could add a baffle or something inside the gas bottle so the exhaust gas swirls round in there a bit longer and gives up more of its heat before exiting. You could even add a coil of exhaust pipe inside the gas bottle and fill the void with sand. This would take a lot longer to heat up but would store the heat and release it slowly over a few hours.

Does the exhaust restriction not effect the engines performance?

Can you run these diesel heaters on filtered waste cooking oil? If it needs diluting you can use white spirit to thin it. Waste cooking oil is a waste disposal issue for restaurants and fast food outlets, chip shops etc. which means you can help them and have virtually free fuel.

Where the exhaust goes through the wall, pack around the pipe with steel wool to prevent mice getting in. The mice cant chew through steel wool and it is a cheap solution and prevents cold draught coming in too. There is no reason why you cant plumb the exhaust through a domestic radiator by removing the valves, instead of the gas bottle and sand. The exhaust will heat a domestic radiator surely.

I’m no expert but surely there must be a pressure build up in the gas bottle. Would that not affect the heater in some way?

Ah, I’ve seen how you’ve set this up. Nice job. 😃👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

I've seen a lot of your experiments and the one thing I always think i'd do different is have the small section of exhaust exiting the heater wrapped in exhaust wrap so more heat is transferred into the gas bottle or whatever you are using to store the exhaust heat.

Do you think the heater at your house would be more efficient if the air intake was also in the house ?

I've had a few diesel heaters and the noise isn't really an issue. If I was going to use it in a domestic situation it would be outside anyway.

Hi, nice setup. Considering something simmilar. Do you have a link to the solar panel you are using? The only thing I didnt find link to in the description 🙂