![Brett](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 7
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Brett
Добавлен 14 ноя 2022
Ford Crank But No Start Try This
For the jump wires I just used 18 gauge wire
This test will help you determine if your fuel pump driver module is bad if this module is dead your car will not start because the fuel pump isn’t getting power.
This test will help you determine if your fuel pump driver module is bad if this module is dead your car will not start because the fuel pump isn’t getting power.
Просмотров: 464
Видео
(Fix) Jet Ski Runs Out Of Water But Not In The Water
Просмотров 2273 месяца назад
Check and make sure all of your water box connections are tight.
Mustang Rear Clunk Fix (sway bar bushing replacement)
Просмотров 7766 месяцев назад
Mustang Rear Clunk Fix (sway bar bushing replacement)
10-14 Ford Raptor Auxiliary Switch Wiring
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.7 месяцев назад
10-14 Ford Raptor Auxiliary Switch Wiring
F150 Vibration on Acceleration Fix
Просмотров 18 тыс.10 месяцев назад
F150 Vibration on Acceleration Fix
2011 F-150 Ecoboost Camshaft Position Sensor (code P0016)
Просмотров 30 тыс.Год назад
The bolt is an 8mm on the sensor. Follow the steps below to see if your timing chain is the reason for the code and needs to be replaced. 1. Connect the Ford Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) service tool or equivalent scan tool to the data link connector (DLC). Check for DTCs. Is DTC P0016 present in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory? a. Yes - proceed to Step 2. b. No - this article ...
Thank you sir, this worked in my 17 f150 ecoboost, had been doing the shudder for about 5 months, thanks to you is now fixed.
Hey man just recently did this on mine bc I was having the same problem but just 1 day later after install , hitting some bumps the sound came back again on my left side . What else do u think it could be bc no way the links , bushings went bad in just 1 day after hitting bumps
No clue man I’m not a certified mechanic by any means
My guy !!! Appreciate this doing it my 07 f150 today hopefully it works
Off topic but do you have any pictures of this truck anywhere? I want to put those wheels on mine.
No I sold the truck awhile ago but they were the wheels off the 2018 f150 roush I’m pretty sure. They’re hard to find though since the only way you could get them is from buying a roush f150.
@@brett.32 I got ya, I appreciate it. Yeah, I’ve been looking for a set for a few months now.
Yeah I found mine on marketplace for $625 without tires
There’s no way that goes into the torque converter. Torque converter sits between engine and tranny. Only way u get fluid in torque converter is separate transmission from engine and remove converter. The fluid in there never gets changed even after a tranny flush.
Did you happen to also get a flashing check engine light that would go away after maybe a min or so? Mine read misfire so replaced plug and coil but same issue happens. So just curious if you or anyone else did the same but shudder fix helped. Thank you!
No I never got a check engine light
Mine does the same. Same year 2015. Did you figure out the issue?
@jshinobu007 2015 here too going to have to try this mine just started having this issue
If it is having a miss fire and your plugs and coils packs are fine drill a small hole bottoms driver side of your intercooler
Mine is doing the same thing just wondering if you got yours fixed
Thanks in 2024
Do you have links for the parts on amazon?
MOOG K700809 Suspension... www.amazon.com/dp/B078WSF9QQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MOOG K8802 Suspension Stabilizer... www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5608E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thank you sir! Unfortunately, the bar bushing in currently unavailable, but I found the same one on eBay.
thank you!
Should you grease the new end link bushings as well before installing or just grease the bigger rubber bushings on the outsides ?
I don’t see why you wouldn’t be able to so I say go for it. The ones that I bought said they were already greased and that I didn’t have to do anything to them so I went with it. I haven’t had any problems with them since and it’s been 6 months.
Was your engine idling funky when this code appeared and did this sensor resolve the issue
My engine idled a little rough but it ended up being my timing chain that needed to be replaced the guy at ford told me that it’s rare for those sensors to fail so you might want to check your timing chain
for me, I removed the air cleaner bracket and the coolant hose and I could get easily access. It's also an 8 mm socket for those who may be doing it. Thanks for the video.
Thank you I just added the 8mm to the description I thought that’s what it was but it had been so long since I had done it I didn’t want to put the wrong size
Where can i get that
I bought it at AutoZone
Where can I got that
Autozone
Take the inner wheel well out it's a lot easier than you can get right in there
I’m sure that helped out a lot I didn’t want to mess with it tho😂
Thank you bro.
I believe I have the same issue your explaining and I’ve done some research and I also believe it’s the torque converter. Sounds like a shutter/ rumbling / somethings is rubbing sound … sometimes it’s when accelerating from 3-4 gear and then just coasting .. but anyways what I’m wondering is since I am also going to do a transmission oil service should I add this after I drop the oil or after I add the new transmission fluid?
I would say after so it stays in there longer. I also heard that sometimes the problem is fixed with just a fluid change and nothing else. The old dirty fluid could be part of the reason it’s slipping.
Outstanding man!! Thanks for the video, I will try it on my 2007 F150.
Did it work?
@MJ did it work???
@@dancrumbo5922 Kind of. It helped but did not cure the whole problem.
@@arcticbuilders5865 It helped but did not cure the whole problem.
Bro, seriously, you should not be making videos with your explanations. No help what so ever.
You know what’s so great about RUclips you don’t have to watch my videos if you don’t want to
You think a bad phaser will throw code
Not sure but I know a bad timing chain will
Why couldn’t you just squeeze it into where you put the transmission fluid?
On these particular model transmission that is where you check and service the fluid. It cannot be done from underneath the hood or engine bay area. Hope that makes sense.
So adding the red goop to a fairly new truck fixed the problem?
Yes but I wouldn’t say new it had 190k miles
Why does it need to be running?
If it’s not running the fluid won’t go into the transmission
This worked for my '15 FX4 EB with 140k. I added the Shudder Fix and let sit about 30 min and drove about 60 miles and haven't felt it since.
I hate that ford did this
Whatever getting under your truck while it is on is awesome
Gives you an opportunity to watch your plastic oil pan leak,again.
Thanks a bunch buddy! The newer ones are on the top. That picture helped a ton! I think I got it done in about an hour. No room back there. I was able to push one of the hoses out of the way to get a little more room. I put a blanket over the engine and laid on top of it to work on this. 👍🏻
Before you fixed it did it make noise when you go over stuff?
Yes you could hear a clunk over speed bumps or bad roads
@@brett.32 I think this is my problem I thought it was my motor mounts. How much is it to get fixed?
I ordered all the parts I showed in the video for $30 on Amazon
Great! Video and explanation with those pictures. THANK YOU! AND IT WAS LESS THAN 5 MIN
Thanks for sharing this.
Have you changed the spark plugs?
Yes I did. It was a transmission problem not something with the engine.
That is a good question. Ford engine miss will mimic converter shudder in older trucks and if left missing it will kill the transmission but the 6r80 it is commonly a shudder. This fixed mine until I can replace filter and refill. I lifted the passenger side, cold and not running. I added the Shudder Fix and let sit about 30 min and drove about 60 miles and haven't felt it since.
@@brett.32what was the issue with the transmission?
I’m ready to do this now. Two questions; what size socket and is there a difference between the parts for bank one or two? Auto one didn’t give me a choice. Thanks for the vid!!!
Yup I did!
I’m tempted to trade it in and get a new truck but I’m sure I won’t get anything for it and the new tundras are over 50 K plus you can only get them with V6 turbo so they might not be as reliable as the old V8 as well
Thanks! That photo of the back of the engine made all the difference.
Incroyable même pas en français
But did you do the other sensor too i think you did bank A what about bank B
Thank you ! Perfect description of how to do the job. VERY tight space. Used a mirror to ID the bolt then it was all based off of feel and the description of your video.
People just because you get that code, it does not always mean your sensor is bad. I had that code and it was my timing chain that was stretched causing the code to trigger. Yes I got it fixed. Had to replace my timing chain, guides, two of my cam phasers, and had the internal part of the water pump replaced (because they were already in there it was preventive maintenance). Cost me around $3500.
I only replaced my timing chain for $1700 at the dealership everything has been great zero issues
@brett.peacock damn that's cheap! I took it to an independent shop because they could get it in right away. The dealership had it for a week and still did not look at it. Regardless, it was still the around the same price.
@@bearing_aficionadotypical dealership wait times
@brett.peacock one guy was working on an engine and another a transmission. I do know the dealership was going to remove my cab to do it because its easier that way. The other shop had a young guy who was like 6ft. 4in work on mine. He took the whole front of my truck apart to do it.
So did the code come back after you installed the new sensor and then you replaced the timing chain?
It was a bear, but I got it done... thank this was the most helpful of the videos
Honestly, by far the best video on this issue
Brett, thanks so much for putting this together. There seemed to be quite a lack of information about 3.5l V6 Cam sensors until I found this, which clearly shows which sensors are which. I'm working on an Edge, I managed to get the Bank 1, Sensor B out using a long handle flex ratchet and medium extension. Unfortunately the CT parts guy had looked up a crank, not CAM position sensor so I'll have to wait for the right part before I can see if I can get it all back together. I only had to take off the air box leading to the throttle body to get access to the sensors on bank 1 (closest tot he firewall on a FWD vehicle). Many thanks again.
Got the new sensor installed and all seems to be working fine. Took a combination of flexible retrieval magnet, extra long pliers, various extension combinations, hand contortions, and more to get the new sensor in place and tightened down! But didn't take too long overall. Thanks again for taking the time Brett.
@@AndrewMoizerdo you know what size of socket I’ll need for the bolt ?
@@jackarchdekin8548 sorry, I don't recall off the top of my head. Maybe 10mm. It was relatively small, used a ¼" socket drive.
Thanks man!! There is literally nothing else out there for our 2011 that shows like this. Great job 👍
You’re an amazing person
Did yours have slow acceleration?
Your video saved me so much time! Literally took me 20ish minutes
Yes I had to mess with it a second time and was able to do it in under 30 minutes
😅
Thank you so much
Was yours idling rough before you changed it
Yes it fixed it
Thank you for this. I just got the same code on my 2011 f150 Eco boost. Has your code come back at all?
No it’s been good
Thank you for how detail and the explanation WOW, it was awesome!!!