Видео

Go with the 705...it's better all the way around.

Still going strong...no complaints.

It should come out with enough leverage on your wrench, but it might be difficult to hold the pulley while removing the bolt. If it doesn't want to come out you could try a little heat to the bolt head or use an impact driver if you have one. You will probably want to reapply some loctite when you reassemble.

It is indeed hard to get out, but I got it. Here's what I did for anyone else trying this... I put a scrap piece of 2x2 wood in the chute to prevent the impeller from turning. If you didn't already, you want to take the plastic chute off so you don't crack it, and the wood can rest against the metal... it's only 4 bolts. Then I took a 1/2 inch closed-end box wrench and inserted the other end into the end of my floor jack pole... used it like a breaker bar. Came off without a problem... no heating required. Leverage is the answer with slow, increasing pressure.

@JohnTotoraitis Thanks for sharing 👍

@@DravenAki I'm trying to visualize how that could happen.

All of the Rigg gear did very well. It kept all my stuff dry in heavy rain. Fortunately, I did not dump the bike in the dirt, but it gave me piece of mind that I would not trash a set of hard bags.

@@jamesallen7205 Thanks, that's really the look I was going for. I guess $250 for the grill is better than forking out the cash for a new truck 🙃

Removing the intake is not easy, but that is the reason behind relocating the sensor, so you never have to do it again. The wire and connector does reach the new location.

@mr.poseidon6247 that would have been the 20km service. I did the maintenance according the the required intervals.

Good suggestion 👌

I have a large channel lock pliers that I normally use. I can't remember what that caliper looks like, but sometimes you can do it by sticking two screwdrivers, one on each side of the brake pads and gently pry them. It should not take much pressure to make the caliper move.

@muzzleloader8189 Definitely a piece of the puzzle. After installing rocker lockers, lifters, pushrods, and a new exhaust clamp, it is still making some noise, so I'm trying to convince myself that it might be normal. 🤔

Oh man, thank you so much for that! This is one vehicle that I was privileged to work on, and the vid has stood the test of time. I'm super happy that it has helped so many people. Thanks!

It's hard to say...it could last the lifetime of the bike. If it's running good, I wouldn't mess with it. If you are having problems or looking to upgrade, then I would ditch it for a carb. However, the carb swap is neither easy or cheap.

Hi, I think you might be referring to the Mikunu KHS-20 chrome breather kit. Please check that out and if its not what you are asking about, let me know.

@@busabobsgarage9876 Yes that will work thks again,

@scottmagyar Sure thing. By the way, the Kipa carb is doing well and I have no regrets buying the Mikunu clone. Good luck on your build.

I may make another demo vid, but i can tell you that the 705 is a better unit all the way around.

Thank you! Cheers!

Go with the 705...much better design.

@@matts4025 The only thing I have left is that shirt, some photos and some great memories, but it was a great journey and it was all worth it.

@@busabobsgarage9876 I spent a good amount of time watching your videos and I'm sure it was a blast! I'm on a mission to get the 200+ shirt from The Texas Mile. I bet the memories/experience was amazing and all worth it

Hey Matt, Thanks for reaching out. A buddy of mine got me hooked on LSR back in 2012, and I did it for about 4-years. I picked up a couple sponsors, which basically discounted parts for me to build my machine...i was the mechanic, rider, etc. I built an awesome all motor 2005 busa that got me over the 200 mph mark multiple times. I accomplished my goal of 200 mph in the mile, sold the bike and hung up the leathers in 2015. Could I have gone faster? Sure, they say "how fast do you want your wallet to take you". Did I want to go faster? Maybe... The moral of the story...speed is addictive. If you have the need for speed, immerse yourself in the LSR community and learn from the guys and ladies who have been there. Most of all, be safe.

Thank you very much!

Honestly, I'm not sure. I think you can get a Haynes manual for general repairs, but not sure about a factory service manual.

@@canavanskyfilms That’s awesome! I have no doubt that DJI is the best, and I have been working toward getting this one. Thanks for your comments.

I gave the drone to my son, but if I recall, all that was needed was the wifi connection, I'm not positive about the app.

That's interesting, why are you doing that?

@XenaTheQuadCamBikah I can't recall, but you can download the Mikunu hrs42 tuning manual and it will tell you exactly what each port is and how to set up your carb. This KIPA seems like an exact copy of the Mikunu.

I have been running the carb for months now with no issues except it's set up a little rich and I'm okay with that.

Usually, intake and exhaust is the best bang for the buck in terms of performance. If you are planning other performance mods, it's probably worth doing the CAI, but I'm going to say here that any gains from the CAI by itself are probably minimal. If you are on a budget, you might be just as well served with a fresh air filter or upgrade to a K&N filter.

Yes, I'm still loving the truck, and no regrets about any of the mods that I have done.

When I say aftermarket ignition I mean the one that goes in the cam cover

First, you have to make sure that the ignition that you select can be set up and wired for single fire if that is the type of coil that you plan to run. I'm sure there is a way to wire and connect it without the harness, but you may have to splice in your VOES and any other required connections. There are probably a few different ways to "skin the cat". The best advice that I can give you is to download the wiring diagram for the carbureted version of your bike and the wiring diagram for the ignition module that you plan to use and go from there. You literally have to connect the dots and figure out what you are going to use to make the connections. If you are not comfortable with wiring, then the pre-made harness is the way to go.

I believe that there are some other guys who have done this and have spliced into the existing FI harness. Search for Magneti Marelli conversion.

I went with a single fire Ultima coil that I found on ebay.

Thank you for responding. What year and bike did you get the wiring harness off of. Thanks again. Great video that a lot of us marelli people need to see.

@ARGOSCUSTOMS Regarding the harness, I believe the one that I got from ebay was from a carbureted 97 FLHR. The wiring diagram should call out the HD part number for the harness. If you can't find an original harness, you could go two ways in my opinion: 1) Use the original FI harness and buy the mating Deutsch connectors and pins...in other words, make one out of your existing harness, or 2) I believe that there is a company called Namz that makes a replacement harness for the carbureted bikes. You may be lucky enough to find an OEM harness from a HD boneyard somewhere, but they may want to sell you the entire harness and not just the section for the ignition.

You don't need the crank position sensor for the carb conversion.

@@busabobsgarage9876 ok. thank you for the reply. im having a difficult time finding videos with the wiring for the stand alone ignitions. IE what is needed and what can be deleted.

@joe-iz9zr If you have the ignition that goes inside the cam nose cone, then you put that in place of your cam position sensor, but you will have to find some wiring instructions. Even if it's a cheap eBay ignition, there has to be a wiring diagram.

I kept the cam position sensor, but didn't need the crank position sensor.

I'm not sure if that answers the question, but the wire terminations can be removed from the 3-pin Deutsch connector. I believe that I removed the old wire shield and used new shrink tube, then reinstalled back in the connector and routed along the bottom frame tube.

@@simonsrattanroom Thanks

Just some simple hand tools. Just use caution not to short the positive battery terminal to any ground or metal on the frame or engine .

I'm glad that it helped you. It's been quite a few years since I put my hands on that bike.

@@Oldwestgunner now those are some serious upgrades 🫡