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Great video

Rodriguez Jose Hernandez Donna Perez Thomas

From what i understand, one difference between brake clean and carb clean/starting fluid (among many other things) is that the latter two have oils/lubricants in them which, as you mentioned in the video, happen leave behind a residue. thus, i am of the opinion that for use as a starting fluid, brake clean should never be used, as it strips necessary engine oil from the cylinder walls, valve guides, etc without replacing it, which could cause premature wear. I’m no expert and i’m not sure how bad it really is to use brake clean as a starting fluid, and i, like everyone else, have used brake clean as starter fluid in a pinch, but i never would recommend it and avoid it at all costs. anyways good stuff as always, thank you for the informational and entertaining content you produce

Yes let’s hear about the different stores

It’s Biden comics

Yes, the cans!??? Like your Leyland sign. Had a twin-cam head sitting on top of my early B , with a triple 48ida webber on top. Pulled out the solid rear and put in a small GM pumpkin with floating rear. 😊😊😊 love to find an carcass and ground up. Car died in NJ when one of my AE pistons (5ring) broke just above the wrist pin. Thats just as it goes...😢

WAAAAAAAAAY too much talking about nothing!

get a sprayer and some acetone

if i had a can of it nearby when my brother-in-law stopped at the house the other day, i would have given him a healthy spritzing of the sfuff given the opportunity. whew!

I used it for cleaning lettering and white wall tires. Works great! Thanks for the link to Amazon for the Denco brake cleaner but it take you to Driven Race Oil!

Always an outstanding video and presentation.

Just found these videos on MGA. I have one. So very happy to watch you deal with the same issues. Thanks Andy. I think fabricaton videos are more interesting than mechanical ones.

Where can I buy the switch?

SUs hate to fiddled with.

how much money did you buy it for, if it's not a secre

Is the slow running screw set at 3 turns off bottom?

Excellent video!!!

i am replacing my harness on my 1974.5 mg midget with one from speedway motors

I have a 77 GT (UK) and none of the wiring diagrams are 'correct' but they do all have enough combined to work it all out.

“Be careful kids” Possibly talking to more Sr.Citizens than kids.

figured it out Push a dental pic through the hole in the knob and pry off..........My predecessor just JAMMED the knob back on and destroyed said knob. FUN FUN FUN !

I feel your pain! I just finished detailing the engine compartment and refurbishing the heater. Someone has skillfully "F'd" up the defrost/heat control and I can't see what I need to remove the knob....

HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE KNOBS ON A '71?

Outstanding video and presentation.

I'm pretty confident with electrical, but that still looks like a nightmare job to replace that whole harness. You are a brave man!

I’m rewiring two Bs, 1970 GT, 1974 Roadster, all wires are out. Both projects are moribund. This episode helps me a lot. Please continue to show the remainder of the job.

Another outstanding video.

Also, don't use lamp cord or speak wires to wire up anything in these cars! Except maybe speakers...

If you had to over-richen the carbs you might want to check for wear in the carb bodies where the butterfly shafts seat. That would make them run lean, especially at idle.

Nice car. I have a 70 too. Really good looking year.

The many times I've travelled between Johnstown and the Louisville area, we've made several stops at Jungle Jim's, both locations! It's always a fun time, and almost overwhelming to see it all. As for the shear, will you be doing enough volume to even justify spending the extra coin on the next level up? I'm sure you can tweak that one to work well, you're a smart guy!

We go to Jungle Jim's probably once a week. My mom is a Swedish citizen, so we hit the Swedish aisle pretty hard. Great video.

I really liked the Fire Truck on top of the Hot Sauce display. Thanks for posting.

Outstanding field trip. Thank you.

We’re already planning a family trip to Cincinnati! 😂 Fun video. Anxious to see this thing in action.

I believe my gt used to have wire wheels and someone has fitted steels as the rear wheels look set in to far. Luckily i have another axle which is wider as I'm not a fan of wire wheels.

Enjoying your videos since I'm contemplating buying another "B"

Strange. So much work done, but not the main under structure.

Did the LE have larger tyres on its alloys such as 185/70 x 14?

I would suggest everyone who is , or has been, involved with MGBs has an opinion including me. I have owned 30 Brit cars since 1964 to include 7 MGs. I have owned: 1946 TC race car which I streeterized. 1950 MG TD which was also a race car prepped for Bonneville. My very first car was a 1953 MGTD MK II.. my favorite of the T series. First month production 1956 MGA which I bought when working for British Motors of Monterey, Calif. I promptly installed a 3 main B motor. Then a 1969 MGC GT also bought while there. Webasto sun roof and 4 speed automatic, Mineral Blue. Twelve years ago I bought and restored a completely rust free 1964 Iris Blue B. Fabulous car. Stupidly sold it. I replaced it with my current 1963 MGB. Looks good runs well but the Weber has to go. Garbage, and I am adamant about getting rid of them, they are a cheap (relatively) easy way out of not restoring and replacing the SU carbs, best carb ever built. . The down draft WEBER is NOT a dedicated unit for the B, it is universal and unfit as it comes. To properly fit one you need a sack of jets and a rolling dyno, and then you still have a carb tat has a 90 turn of the air fuel mixture. They are inefficient, prone to vapor lock and do not have the "punch" of proper SUs. Your mileage may vary. The latest down draft weber is made in Spain and worse than the Italian made units. Back to the LE MGB. I simple words An Abomination.. It fails on the following basic points. Substandard.... Design, Materials and Workmanship. There is no excuse for this car. Other manufacturers managed to comply with the US Federal regulations without looking hideous and still with some resemblance of former days and some power left. Attempts at upping the mid sixties HP to the former 95-98 are commendable but expensive and , as we see with the Weber, a waste of money and time. I agree with the Electronic ignition and the exhaust and so on but this is the classic "lipstick on a pig" Granted the car has very few miles but that does not preclude that the car itself is a deterrent to purchase given design, material and workmanship failure. There are plenty of pre 1974 1/2 chrome bumper cars out there. I would suggest that MGB ended life in June of 74. RIP. I can forgive the rubber bumpers on a BRG, Black or Red MGB.. (almost) It's the rest of the car that is the real problem. The LE designation means absolutely nothing. Stripes and wheels doesn't cut it. If someone wants to restore (bring the car back to original) that is folly. Throwing money trying to upgrade the car is expensive and time consuming ..and , as an example, replacing the vinyl seat covers with proper leather. a grand just to buy the covers not to include installation. There's more but I'm done and you are bored... What this car needs is a proper Christian Burial or back to a museum for gross auto mistakes next to the Gremlin and the Kaisers with the widow's peak windshield. Excellent video and my condolences to the next owner. RIP MGB.

Thank you for the Walk around video of this beauty!

I have the 79 and 80 LE models. The 79 is restored and the 80 is next in line for a ground up restoration. I did notice that the build quality was way better on the 79.

Pretty amazing that the basic car itself had almost a 40 year production run. Very cool example indeed.

Outstanding video and presentation.

Thank You.

Very helpful, ploughing through all your videos. Very easy to understand. Could you however possibly do a video on jacking up the rear of the car on the axle. Also jacking points for an emergency roadside repairs using a scissor Jack (swap wheels over due to puncture) thanks

An other outstanding video and presentation. A follow up video on the Limited Edition would be great. Thank you!

Champion or NGK plugs. Nice tutorial on choosing a coil for your British car. Moss used to have a pretty good video in British ignition systems.

my guess is that the coil was receiving current all night. maybe the ignition switch was on? anyway, your instincts are corrent, IMO. the coil's toast...but it's just a coil. about any old coil will work. and get a new plug wire to fit the coil, as the one on that coil was made for it and its design is over half a century old. modern coil wires look a bit different where it plugs into the coil, but the sparkplug end should be okay no matter what. and the reason the spark varied from weak to strong and back again was probably related to damage to the coil. then manifested itself with cycles of overheating and cooling. heat creates resistance in wires and would vary the amount of high voltage the coil can make. thus the strong, weak, strong spark cycles. the coil needs to make 20,000v or more to jump the sparkplug gap properly. and it must be constant. ...it wasn't. the pop or backfire through the carb was probably caused by unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust manifold and blowing back. when spark is inconsistent, unburnt fuel builds up and will ignite at unexpected times and in uncommon areas and seeks relief...it just blew back through the most convienent orifice.

Great info. Why don't you like the Weber? A friend of mine told me that's the way to go. I have a 79 MGB with a ZS.