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if i can ever find some time that would be a good video to do. thank you for your support.

thank you!!

we make those conversion units but i would recommend fixing your linear PS as it will work better and last way longer then any other switcher will. also if rebuilding the PS get the MP1018 on our site for the BR which will make it last longer then they originally did.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 do you have a service that I can mail in to have my original linear rebuilt? Or recommend a certain company that can help me? Thank you

@@jumpingeneral we used to but we are so busy we aren't at this time but i would check with Mecha on KLOV as he used to but not sure if he still is. what failed your your PS?? its best with questions to contact us through our site and we have help you figure out the best options.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 okay. Not sure. Game is dead when plugged in

i fill a wash sink and add a couple cups of the simple green HD and i also add a fair amount of dawn ultra and let the boards soak for a while before i scrub them.

that doesn't always work as the pins can tip and also the pins can heat the plastic base and it will just drop right out so its always safer to use a connector.

You're Welcome!!

glad it helped. we have more tech information on our site in the tech help tab too.

absolutely NOT. if you do that it will come back to bite you because you introduce all the surface contaminants into the solder that way and no flux to clean. ALWAYS remove old solder and apply all new solder with give you the best results.

glad it helped you. thanks

Glad I could help!

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 Also means I probably need to pull a few boards in my jukebox that I "repaired" before and fix them the right way now

simple green HD and water, thoroughly rinse and let dry well for a couple days and after a day i use compressed air to get water out from under components that trap water and then let dry another day.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 Just wondering if you can give me detail on the simple green HD cleaning that you do on the boards? Do you dilute the simple green HD if so 5050? Or full strength? Also how long do you leave the simple green on the board before rinsing with water and do use a paintbrush to also clean while the simple green is wet on the board? Thanks for your time

@@creedtkr i fill a wash sink and add a couple cups of the simple green HD and i also add a fair amount of dawn ultra and let the boards soak for a while before i scrub them.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 OK thank you very much for such a fast reply. I just ordered and received a bunch of PCB cab kits from you and I want to clean the boards like you recommend before I do my repairs. Thanks again

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 Also love your videos and your store. If you ever have time you should do a video on your cleaning process I’m sure it would help myself and others to do a proper job

thank you for your support.

Arcade Parts and Repair no thank you, Dave A. I recently asked if y’all had a Facebook and just got around to checking youtube 👍

i have three Edsyn ZD500DX and have used them for over 20 years and they are great. you can buy them at many places on line or directly from Edsyn.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 Well for the average hobbyist that is not a reasonable option but I can understand why you would use it as you probably turn it on every day. Thank you for the information. Would something like this be a reasonable alternative for a hobbyist www.ebay.com/itm/S-993A-110V-100W-Electric-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Gun-In-US/263534363786?

1. too many brands and type but the most commonly used is the open barrel crimpers like on our site, but AMP, Molex all make a ton of different models and most are only specific to a certain type/size of pins. 2. Molex and AMP are the most common on older games and newer games use many other brands such as JST and others. 3. that is a huge list and if your more specific to a game i can tell you exactly but most 70's and 80's used .084, .100, .156, .093 molex and AMP connectors.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 thanks for the help. 1.) Which Crimping Tools for Molex and AMP would an arcade repair technician need that they would have to have daily use? I don't want to buy 20 different types of Molex and AMP crimpers to have in my tool box just looking for the most used across all types of arcade games in the 70's and 80's 2.) Arcade Technicians have told me to change all the Molex and AMP pin types size to 0.156 inch Trifurcon crimp terminals. I'm not sure why they want to use TRIFURCON type pin, any reasons why? I thought the pin size was how much current rating but the Trifurcon is better for higher currrent ratings I'm guessing. 3.) In arcade games and pinball games the connectors and wires gets corroded which causes intermittent failures. I'm guessing the Trifurcon pins don't cause corroded interminitten failures? or what type of pins material would you recommend to not cause future intermittent corroded issues on the connectors?

@@billwilliams6338 1. the best choice for one crimper that crimps most of the molex and amp pins in arcade and pinball is this: www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/ratcheting-open-barrel-contact-crimping-tool/ 2. trifurcon pins is all we sell because they are the best. they contact the header in three positions instead of one position so they handle higher amperage and technically you don't need shrouded headers anymore as the trifurcon pins will hold tight to the correct square header pins. much much better for many reasons. 3. new pins, housings etc will not corrode in the correct environment and if new ones do it will take decades unless you have an environmental cause introduced to them.

@@arcadepartsandrepair183 thanks for the help 1.) I'm still not sure why Trifucon pins can handle higher current amp rating they are made out some type of special nickel or steel coating to prevent oxidation and intermittent issues? 2.) you said in the video you can use different types of pin types and sizes in either molex and AMP connectors which i guess are interchangeable? 3) in your video you also said you can use the same wire gauge like 16 gauge and use 0.156 pin and also use 22 gauge wire using 0.156 pin? So you can use the same pin size even if the wire gauge is different?

@@billwilliams6338 1. more surface area (3 times more) than normal pins is why higher current and amp rating. 2. NO only our CDxxxx and CExxxx part numbers which are .084 molex and .084 AMP universal mate-n-lok. remember there are AMP .084 commercial and they don't interchange with any of them. 3. NOPE. 16awg can't be used (i said 22, 20, 18) you can use the same .156 connector housing but the pins could be different depending on the wire gauge. pins/terminals can be different in the same housing. hope that helps.

No, lead doesn't vaporize but you definitely need a good ventilation/extraction system when soldering (especially with leaded solder).

thank you John.

i have used the Edsyn ZD500DX desoldering station for almost 30 years and own 3 of them and i have always been happy with them.

@Peter Frencken its actually the quietest i have found but the vacuum pump sits right by the camera mic so it seems much louder than it truly is.

with two sets of parallel resistors it can go more than one position but the voltage range changes depending where its installed.

It does seem R26 would be a better replacement candidate than R25. The max possible voltage is less (5.88 vs 7.3), the wiper will operate closer to the middle of its mechanical range, and the sensitivity should be less making it easier to adjust the voltage. (Good exercise for practiciing voltage divider skillz.)

in most cases 650 - 675 F.

search P1037 on our site for the correct one.

sounds great. i would recommend raising your voltage to 5.0vdc at the game pcb because your getting voltage drop through the wiring/connectors. once you do that put a dab of silicone on the pot so it will lock the pot so it can't move.

Hey, Peter: I bumped up the voltage to see 5v at the CPU. The game is resetting more frequently, and blowing the fuse (F5). I believe I ruled out any external problem by swapping the power supply PCB with the one from my Stargate; no resets or blown fuses. What's the most likely culprit on the power supply PCB to cause a blown F5 fuse and frequent resets? Resistor R3 is getting really hot, but I pulled a leg, and it seems ok. It's a .12 ohm, so reads as nearly dead short as it is. I can only find 0.10 ohm 5w resistors. Do you have the .12 ohm, if that's the likely culprit?

due to age of all parts inside that game you may have voltage drop/loss through the cables, pcb, etc and you should always set the power supply to provide a reading of 5.0 - 5.10 vdc at the PCB to make sure components are receiving optimum voltage. ALWAYS silicon the pot after its adjusted correctly so it can't move accidentally because too high of voltage can damage components.

we use edsyn zd500dx desoldering stations (we have three of them and have used them for over a dozen years). if your only a hobbyist and don't use it almost daily than there are less expensive units on the market. i personally use 63/37 solder with good ventilation extraction system and solder/desolder at about 650F - 700F. the temperature can vary depending on the type of solder you adding or removing. hope this helps.

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this video. I reflowed a bunch of connections tonight and huzzah! Asteroids Deluxe cocktail working again after 30 years off :)

i am glad to hear that. now its time to play the game.

I agree, he should make more.

we have all the parts and the best quality cap kits for them in stock. let me know if you have any trouble finding parts/kits on our site. thanks

thank you and i have a bunch more planned soon.

its on our site and its part number P1037 trimmer pot. here is the link. www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/10k-ohm-williams-5vdc-power-supply-trimmer-potentiometer-p1037/