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Finnegan is an awesome doggy! I was also inspired by Mirra and Jon they are so cool! I built a bike trailer for Kiki my basset hound and we use to get around Pueblo everyday. we will be biking the Colorado trail this year, probably just from Salida to Durango and then back for some fun. I really enjoyed your video and I think you did a great job dude!

I got those wheels about a year ago and those wheels are great, they may not be the lightest but they are lighter than stock wheels that come with entry to mid level bikes. What impressed me is they are strong and never got out of true. My stock wheels went out of true the first time I went on the trails. These ZTTO are still Tru to this day

Your explanations were EXCELLENT! Using the phrase, "pedal perspective", made things make sense.

Sir, if you'd swapped out the front rings for a 42/32/22, 44/34/24, or a 44/34/22 setup, your gearing would've been more than low enough. Your old triple chainring was more appropos for a hybrid, not a MTB. That's what gave you problems in the low end of the gear range; it was the 48/38/28 tooth ring that did you in on the hills. While you were at it, also could've swapped out the freewheel for a Shimano 7 speed 14-28 tooth freewheel; that would've given you more consistent gearing without the big jump to the bailout gear. Though freewheel options are limited, I've seen Shimano 7 speed freewheels with 14-28 teeth on Nashbar. Pairing that freehweel with a 42/32/22 triple ring up front would've given you good, low gearing; your lowest gear would've been about 21 gear-inches. However, since you were seeking the overall greater simplicity and reliability of a 1x12 drivetrain, then making the conversion made sense. If you're going to do all that work to modify your 3x drivetrain, you might as well change it to a 1x while you're at it; the overall work would've been the same in either case. Finally, just to ensure reliable and consistent shifting, I'd have gone with all Shimano components; either a Deore or CUES groupset would've worked great for this conversion. Another excellent option for the conversion would've been a Microshift AdventX groupset. I have this groupset on my Marin Kentfield 2, and it works GREAT! Its overall gear ratio is 22-96 gear-inches. The cassette is 10 speed, 11-48 tooth affair, and it fits Shimano HG hubs. Meanwhile, there's a 38 tooth, wide-narrow crank up front. I have 700c wheels on it, so my gearing is slightly higher than an old school MTB with 26" wheels would have. The 1x10 setup offers good range for both hilly and flat terrain, while the steps between gears are perfect. The jumps are neither too big or too small; they're like Goldilocks-just right! Anyway, thanks for the detailed explanations, since I'm contemplating a similar conversion for one of my bikes.

The struggle is real.

Umm….I’m no expert but I don’t think that’s the way a helmet works.

Thanks for the video. I learned a lot as you explained it well. Safe biking ..... Roger S.Africa😊

Using a compressor is the best way

Right on man, u should be proud a lot of people would have gone with e-bike. I’m 60 and refuse to get e bike yet.

Great video, thank you for sharing sharing.

You're free to choose, but this is what bothers me the most about the cycling world. Yes, buying new things is a fun part of a hobby, but listening to the nonsensical logic to justify being trendy is the part that bothers me. If gearing was really the issue, you could have just spent $20 for a new freewheel.

Have you seen how they inflate truck tires quickly without pump or compressor by just using gasoline and fire?

Actually the 30 teeth cog will help on the flats as well. That is the reason I changed from 32 to 30 teeth on the Cube 1x12 MTB. With 32 the gear choice on the flat was either too hard or too easy. Turns out after some calculation the ratio with perfect cadence for me is 1.9 rear/front. The 32 teeth gave me 1.8 or 2.0. Changing the front cog can really help putting power on the pedal. Improved climbing is always welcome. Your videos were found because I was searching for videos to convert my other MTB, a Giant Talon 1 from 2x11 to 1x12. Your videos are informative and entertaining. Thanks 👍

I wouldn't bother doing your repair because the your PU (ploy urethane) midsoles get "hydrolysis" at your boots' age which means the PU simply and completely disintegrates. Boot makers are well aware of this and don't mention it and it's not included under normal wear and tear and material defects warranty (which is complete BS because how is this not a completely bogus breakdown of materials). How's the repair holding up?

Are you still using your ZTTO wheel set?

Great looking ride. Adding it to my list. Thanks for the hard work on the video.

Great video

I gotta ask, whats with the rubber gloves?

Eagerly waiting on update on how the wheels hold up with load on a trip :)

What a blast that was!

I'd never thought of using rubber cement Did a bit of research and that seems to be what cobblers use for glueing soles. I've always used freesole (now aquaseal SR). I'm not sure the CA glue is the tright product to seal however, as it sets brittle. Freesole woild probably work better as it sets flexible.

Not sure what that orange tape is like but the blue ztto rim tape sucks won't last more then a few months

With pedals, tighten toward the front of the bike. Simple way to remember. With BB's you tighten toward the rear of the bike.

Acetone is very good at breaking down the glue

Your 20l dry bag has its centre of mass further away from the handle bars (point of rotation) than an 8l bag. Meaning that the moment arm is much longer than the 8l bag. Without actual measurements, I would be say that the torque produced by your 3kg load in the 20l bag is higher than the torque from a 5kg in a 8l bag. Hence the rotation problem. Another issue to address, and one that perhaps Aeroe should have foreseen, Is the friction coefficient between the nylon restraining tapes and the handle bar, which I think works out at about 0.4, almost similar to that between nylon and snow, 0.3. To get a much higher friction values and thus reduce the chance of rotation you need to introduce a "stickier" material between the restraining tape and the handlebar. In my experience I've found that a short length of inner tube wrapped around (in this instance) the handle bars would be beneficial (you obviously have to cut the tube to fit it). And then mount the carrier, make sure the restraining bolts are done up TIGHT. Whilst I can't give you a torque value for the bolts, you should be able to see the rubber tube being compressed. It won't stop the rotation, but should slow it up. Why? Because you've got yet another problem, again exacerbated by having moved the centre of mass further from the point of rotation. This is caused by "impulse loading" of the mass in the 20l bag by the bumps on the road surface creating rapid up/down motion generating "impulses" in the system. Assuming the same mass the moment produced by a 20l bag would be much higher than that produced by a 8l bag. Particularly big bumps would momentarily overcome the static friction of the clamps starting rotation. Once started, rotation would continue, even with smaller bumps quickly following the large on, as you have overcome the static friction and moved into the realm of kinetic (moving) friction. Kinetic friction values are much lower between the same materials than they are for static friction. Basically once you've starting something sliding (or rotating), it takes less force to keep it sliding than it did to start it. The trick is to prevent it moving in the first instance. In a nut shell, try wrapping something compressible and sticky around the handlebars, then mount the rack. Do it up tight, visually sight the wrap compressing .Ditch the 20l bag, use a smaller one, move the centre of mass closer to the point of rotation (handle bars). And finally reduce the amount of mass you're carrying on the Aeroe mount.

Definitely doing this route next summer. Also big coincidence, I used to work with Toby. Say hi to him for me!

Great job editing the video. Another fantastic memory!

Do you have a Strava route?

There is a manufacturer in Europe that makes a universal piece ( i.e. for more than just the Aero cradle) very similar to that, it's licensed to an American artisan in the NE I think, don't recall the name.

Thank you for a very informative video. I am planning to ride this trail and your video was very helpful. 👍👍

a rubber bumpper ?

aeroe handlebar adapter would solve the issue

My handlebar crafle slips and is definitely an issue!

Closely examining the rim shape at 6:01 and can hardly call that rim non-tubeless.

17:28. It doesn't have to be straight. I filed my hub to fit road cassette and I did NOT do a great job. 11-34 is wobbly like Jim Carrey and works fine.

I'm not into carbon wheels either. The price ain't right for me.

The Adventure Route is such a great stretch of trail!

I want to ask you that if there was any space between the rim and tire before it worked

Take that thing to the gas station. F those hand pumps.

I'd fine tune the brake after the disc swap to have spot on contact of the pads with the discs. Of course going like that will eventually wear one side off more than the other. For the best brake performance you should target equal distance to the discs from both sides in the caliper and make sure that all 4 pistons come out equally far when pressing the brake lever. A lot of performance and braking power is lost when only some of the pistons push the pad against the disc, even more so if totally unevenly like when one side already contacts without even braking. Another issue with that is that it warps the disc under heavy use if the discs gets pushed off center. Those Shimano XT rotors are pretty good when it comes to heat dissipation. Spider is aluminium, outer ring is steel. They do warp pretty easily though since both used metals have different expansion coefficients. Regarding raw braking power, there should be a difference. There is a plus in leverage where the pads contact the discs. Bigger radius. Should be equivalent to the percentage of the increase in size.

I can give an update on the latest cradle versions: they don't have the fabric straps anymore, but metal straps covered in rubber railguard. As I haven't installed the cradle yet, I can't say if this solves the problem, but it looks solid at first glance.

Excellent video. Very informative and a pleasure to watch. Well done young man.

You can also just put sealant into the tube. You can still remove the presta valve and put sealant in with a syringe. It's really easy and clean. The sealant just falls into the presta stem. This does work. I've been doing it for a while with no problems. I fixed my nephew's flat tire by simply putting sealant in the tube and airing it up. It hasnt been flat since.

People coping with made in china parts just cause its cheap. Buy somthing japanese or european, problem solved....

I have shimano SM-MA F203P/PM adaptor for my 203mm ice tech it had an indentation instead of that straight bar for the caliper to seat into, ive left the code its not expensive 14 bucks! you'll get over heating until you change to a 4 piston set up just how it is with a single piston i got mine as standard on my new emtb front and rear absolutely outstanding its the calipers holding them back now

Magnesium in the center of the Ice Tech discs transfers the heat. I have them on mine as standard with 4-piston XT calipers. Once bedded in, they are amazing. Bedded in fast. A couple of rides around the park were done. The difference in the fronts is crazy stopping power.

I can't finish watching this video...🙄🥱😔

Can I use a tubeless tyre on a non-tubeless rim and just use an inner tube with it?

I ran into the same problem you did with the bolt length being too long when I switched to a different frame actually. Except my problem was more expensive because I bought some titanium bronze colored bolts so I now have $20 in titanium bolts just sitting in my parts bin. I ended up buying some shorter steel gold colored bolts on Amazon to replace them.

Get some Shimano brakes instead, you won't regret it.