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@@pistachio8859 you mean the model or the final result? I think the quality is ok, since the model hasn’t much details a resin printer is not needed in my opinion. But of course with a resin printer everything looks better ^^

​@@diy_wizardThe end result. The 3D model is ok, and I have similar opinions. It's the layers that's the problem. 0.1mm layers would be better and glass or carbon fibre does a better job of blending them. But, yeah, it's just because it's FDM. I really don't want to spend time sanding or priming parts just to get something that looks almost as good as the king of surface finish, injection moulding. Resin gets us 95% there but it's own post processing is a bit of a fumy, messy chore. I just figure, if I need to do post-processing, it might as well be with UV curing and have a way better end result. Ultimately, surface finish is incredibly important to me for art. It's made to be looked at- and layer lines are an ugly distraction. It's far from a something I'd want to give as a gift or taking space on a shelf. I still love my X1C, though. I just prefer to use it for more practical stuff.

@ I understand! I have one project where surface finish is important, and sanding etc was a horror. But resin printing is not an option for me, had one once and the fumes are a horror to me, Berber will get one again unless I had an own workspace for it with ventilation system

Thanks, seems like my English is to bad, I can’t see it :( what is the typo?

@@diy_wizard no problem! the typo is "satue" > should be "statue"

@ oooooh you are of course right, I will change it by time!

@ thanks!

@@diy_wizard thanks for the video!!

What do you mean by “staged”? I have heard from some people now, that it didn’t work out very well :( I think it highly depends on the quality of the photo you upload, in my case of course I choose a high quality photo with clear background and high resolution from the internet…. But I promise you that I just have shown the process as is, I just uploaded the photo you see and this was my first try result

Sadly enough I don’t have any clue :( I always thought it was more something like meshy.ai behind it to create 3d models

@@Denis_v1.0_beta I know exactly what you mean, i feel the same!

@@tinathecrafterthanks, your welcome!

Yes the eyes are one of the few things that weren’t that good. What do you mean with „good model“, do you mean it’s not a good AI behind it?

@diy_wizard yeah basically the trained ai model. Like stable diffusion or something like that.

Danke für den Tipp, Ja 2k hab ich auch schon mal probiert, find den nur doch immer recht umständlich und ich finde es schwer so ganz kleine Mengen anzumischen, daher hatte ich hier darauf verzichtet

@@frankey33602 Danke für das Feedback! Muss ich mal nächstes mal mehr auf den Ton achten. Bei der Tabelle dachte ich halt einfach man macht Pause wenn man sie länger sehen will ;)

@@kevinwiseman5313 yeah I had also a long waiting time… don’t know how it is know. But it’s a form of AI so it need a lot of computing power…

You can send multiple jobs and just let it be

@@DougToppin thanks!

@@Magurae Danke für das Feedback! Das stimmt, hatte leider nicht zu viel Zeit für den Schnitt und hätte dann noch mal ein neues Voice over machen müssen wenn ich einiges geschnitten hätte! Aber ich stimme dir absolut zu, hätte man insgesamt komprimieren können!

That wasn’t my purpose but I’m glad I helped ^^

Yes it is really impressive!

Sehe schön! Wieso hasst du mich? ;) mach doch dein Video auch!

@ nene mache nur spaß ^^ Übrigens 1a video, waren viele infos bei

Werd ich mir bei Gelegenheit mal anschauen!

Wäre auch mal interessant.

Thanks!

I am planning to sell the Modell on cults3d but I need to found a business first, taxes are complicated in Europe…

Gut zu wissen dass der pattex modllbaukleber was taugt! Wenn er so riecht wie sekundenkleber ist vermutlich cyanoacrylat drin, das soll wohl bei PLA immer ganz gut funktionieren

You are right, that would be great! I think those kind of things will come.

Sorry but what do you mean?

@@diy_wizardwe wanted to see the 3d print.

It’s linked in the short at the end, hat no time do cut it into the final video :(

@@harryhanson6660 where did you get the spinning arrow, in the browser or in Bambu Studio?

@@jamies.8045 oh I haven’t seen this in the app :O good to know wo that this is an option!

@@stefanackermann8311 danke, ich finde es auch erstaunlich. Und das ist bestimmt nur der Anfang…

@@diy_wizard das denke ich auch

@@kinkerlitzchen_tech danke! Ja Endergebnis kommt gleich als Short ;) ja das was du beschreibst wäre schon sinnvoll, hab auch schon sehr dünne Flügel gesehen, die bestimmt schwer druckbar sind. Flachen Boden kriegen man halt immer im slicer durch absenken des Modells.

@@nakacla if you use Bambu Studio or prusa slicer, you can just add a negative part (cylinder) in the size of your magnets. This will be cut from the model while printing!

@@sherriw890 you’re welcome! I have uploaded a bunch of Halloween files on maker world ^^

@@diy_wizard is the tree yours? I printed that at the weekend ready for my Halloween collection. Thank you for the uploads on maker world. I make thing for around my home. Not learnt to design yet so very grateful that you share your makes.

@@sherriw890 Hi! Yes I made some tree stumps, all of my models can be found here: makerworld.com/en/@DIYWizard

@@diy_wizard thanks will find you online when next online

@@dugy40 sorry I don’t know exactly what you mean, are you trying to 3d model this yourself; so you mean in CAD/nomad sculpt? I just created a small cylinder and placed it threw the wall, made it invisible and than voxel merged the two, so the invisible one gets removed from the wall.

@@diy_wizard can’t Ramesh if there is only one hidden mesh

@@dugy40 you have to select both parts the main part (positive) and the negative Part. You could also search on RUclips for a tutorial to subtract parts in nomad sculpt

@@diy_wizard i have the stump in nomad, hes made except i cant put holes through him. i got the cylinder in the eye to go almost invisible and hit re mesh but no hole

@@dugy40 ok I guess you made him invincible through opaqueness? Just go to the menu where you have all your objects, and hit the „hide“ button (that eye). Then select both objects (stump and cylinder) and do a Boolean

@@dugy40 hi! You mean how I removed the support material? I used pliers as you can see in the video :)

Know that I know you are using nomad sculpt: I used the masking tool. I suggest you search for a basic tutorial on nomad sculpt :)

Danke für die ausführliche Info, wenn mit mal aktivator über den Weg läuft, werde ich das mal ausprobieren!

@@diy_wizard Weicon hatte vor längerer Zeit mal einen Influencer Tag an dem sie so einiges über Klebstoffe erzählt haben. Darunter gibt es auch ein Video über Primer & Aktivatoren für Klebstoffe. Selbst wenn man die Produkte anderer Marken bevorzugt kann man da einiges an Infos mitnehmen. Ich fand es damals sehr interessant. ruclips.net/video/GGvLoPjveMo/видео.htmlsi=t8bVWNSVH53pc9Eg

Der Aktivator dient nur das es schneller Trocknet in Sekunden schnelle. Beispiel, Druck 2mal zwei Hälften, die einen Hälften mit Sekunden Kleber und zusammen drücken, nach 2Sekunden lassen sie sich noch verschieben. Nimmst du Sekunden Kleber und die andere Hälfte mit Aktivator einsprühen und zusammen drücken, hält es nach kurzen Bombe. Falls du farbliche Elemente zusammenkleben möchtest, beachte bitte das beim ausdünsten von Sekundenkleber weiße Flecken im stehen können. Alternative empfehle ich dir, probier's mal mit zwei Komponenten Kleber.

@@kinkerlitzchen_tech danke! Naja kommt darauf an wofür? Ich hab eigentlich den P1S aber wollte noch einen 2. um parallel zu drucken und um mit einer 0.2mm Düse mit hohem Detail drucken zu können… also für mich lohnt sich das zumal er mich nur 150€ gekostet hat

@@SnowMaidens hi there! If you also want to print big things like helmets, you probably want a fdm printer. If you just want to print and not tinker around the printer, Bambu Lab printers are good to go. Cheap A1 and if money doesn’t matter much I would suggest P1S or X1C. If you make high detailed models you also might consider a resin printer but that’s a lot of smell and mess.

@@SabrinaSeefried thermistor für ended 3 S1 müsste das Teil heißen

Das müsste ein thermistor für den ended 3 S1 sein

Kostet nur ein paar Euro

Exactly! The funny thing is I activated support but he sliced it with these crazy bridges!

@@lique5168 gerne ^^

@@danaj-b9452 well it made a part of it, I would say the main part

@@danaj-b9452 to be honest, the thumbnail is a bit clickbait but I say this directly in the beginning of the video that it won’t get out perfectly

Danke freut mich dass ich helfen konnte!

You‘re welcome!