Видео

Reminder to all: Don't use nails on the new 2 x 4's that you install. If you do, the sheetrock ceiling below may get all screwed up by using a hammer... There is nothing more fun than refinishing a sheet rock ceiling... again... And, consider getting some very cheap nail plates that you can put over the exposed wire that is between the 2 x 4's. This will help to prevent a screw going through the OSB into the wire by mistake when you are installing the flooring.

I did similar but didn't use long studs, just short blocks, predrilled holes in blocks before screwing down. I had to get at the wires a few times but i was easy to run the wire under the floor because of the short blocks instead of long studs. blocks about 5 inches long each. thing is you lose about 2 inches of headroom. Also installed led lights in the attic, the attic is brighter than the kitchen heh. The switch to turn on the lights is in the garage so the attic is lite already when you go up the drop down stairs (also installed that)

Good idea. I might have laid them perpendicular but I'm not sure the plus and minus of switching directions.

Smart move....Nice job....thanks for info !!!

Pretty cool, but you still fight like a dairy farmer.

You should just raise where the wire as a step up

no nail plates over the wires does not comply with NEC codes

Fantastic idea 💡 I was looking for this solution to my attic problem. Keep up the good work 👏

thank you!!!!

Me personally, we have an ancient house in a cooler climate. I'm going to add 2x6 perpendicular to fix the wiring issue, and make room for more cellulose insulation. In other areas where i dont want to loose headroom, i plane on using 1x2 stock with just enough gap for the romex and put a nailing plate over that.

I like the 2x's laid flat. It's 2½" - 3½" of wood to anchor the floor to vs just 1½". Easier.

1x1s or simple furring strips rather than 2x4s. Same concept, just to save money for others watching. Sistering as others have suggested is overkill but works fine.

Good job

Both male and female cut depth have to equal. Female start depth 0.00 Flat depth is .25 Male start depth .24 Flat depth .01 Equals .25 That will give you a. 01 gap in the inside bottom for glue squeeze out at the same time giving you a .01 gap where they meet up. This works with .02 and .03 just subtract form the. 25 to get .23 or .22

Video Ideas: Replace your insulation with Rock Wool Dry wall the space Install Lighting Make sure if the slant connects to the outside you install a rigid metal gating/caging to prevent animals getting in before anything else.

To add the 2x4s on top the joists. I would sister the beams with a 2x4 on at least one side to give me a better screw grip. It's more expensive but that's where I am. It's typically leftover lumber pieces, nothing long. The house is old and I don't just want to screw into the existing narrow beam alone.

I finished a pocket space in a house like this. With a rat cage for the gutter line, insulation, and drywall. I like your approach, I have a 1962 build I'm working that starts in a 1958 attic and is bridged by a breezeway to get to the electrical box. Part of my project is finished, but like what you have here I need to add height in the next run to hover wires and insulation.

John Paul Jones ?

Good video. Tip, with fiberglass in the area, wear a mask. NEVER speed up and use music, if you must speed up do a voice over. TOH, never does speed up,

FF to 1:35 for the good stuff.

Would have been sensible to put down more insulation between the joists before boarding. What you have appears to be the bare minimum and wholly inadequate.

Brilliant video. have read some of the comments about the spacing on the bottom, that's argumented to be zero. In my opinion you must have a spacing between she two parts. if you have at fit that is to tight, you will press the glue down towards the bottom making it impossible for the glue to get out from the bottom. I know it must be tight! But take that in consideration when testing. Even if its a perfekt fit, its impossible to pres the glue out if the sides closes before the glue can escape. only my experience. I hope it makes sense! Best regards kent

David Archy is my favorite amazon boxers too hahahaha

Thanks, im gonna do this too, but with 1x2's instead of the 2x4's, and various scrap 2x_'s instead of osb

could have saved cost and weight using partial 2x4s.

great job... have you gone back to undo the subfloor to add more insulation ?

Looks good. May I suggest that you top up the insulation before covering it up.

I took a different approach before installing blown-in insulation. I took 2x10s about a foot long and nailed to them pieces of plywood extending down about three inches. That combination slips over the existing 2x4 rafters and won't move from side to side. I then placed two of them alongside one another on adjacent rafters. Then I nailed another 2x10 between those two. That created a platform, that was enough to get about in the attic. But to make it even better, I nailed longer 2x10 boards to connect the platforms. I now have a path I can take to almost anyplace in the attic above my 16" of blown-in insulation. To create flooring, plywood sheets could be nailed on top of the platforms.

You are making a video from behind you, could you at least tuck in your shirt?!

I would consult the 2023 NEC, National Electrical Code, for the best Legal way and Highest Resale Value. I will look also as I need to do something similar myself in places. Thanks.

nice father n son home project video... but concerns about wire plates, inspection for resale, local code vs safety vs 'quick n cheap before Christmas... AND no face mask for either father or son in the midst of fiberglass... Please learn / do better before making more videos. (Politely)

Great project. Excellent work. But, no knee pads... That's how I messed up my knee doing my attic. On my knees 8 hours and the next day couldn't walk. Of course I'm much older than you. Now after 5 years suffering, finally had to do 'total knee replacement' . Use knee pads please...

Great video man! I have been wanted to do this as well. One question, why did you run the 2x4's with the joists and not across. I was thinking it would take less 2x4's. Just curious before I start mt project. Thanks!

Great info TYFS. One suggestion is to remove the music and narrate as you work. Maybe share insights or explain what you're doing and why. The blaring music isn't pleasant.

There is a need for this creative improvement type of videos

Great idea and laying the 2x4 on their side added extra strength to the floor 😁 Glad to see your son helping and learning some handy homeowner skills 😁 Excellent job

I’m curious, why wouldn’t you run the 2x4’s perpendicular to the joists? Then you could have run them 16” on center.

Can you be filming your face and then just flip the ring around to see your hands? I want to start my videos talking with my face showing and then just flip it down to see my hands working. Does that question make sense?

Ps this is so genius! Thank you so much man ! I could have never thought to do this !(I've had a mouse problem but couldn't reach one corner of attic due to this here similar prob 70 year old house wiring is a death trap lol

Kill the loud music

I would model it in cad to get the numbers I need. But does Carveco maker dont have a male inlay milling strategy? The symbol next to the V-Carve symbol.

Appreciate your honesty regarding the issues during the project. Great looking cutting board.

Thanks for another nice video. Any chance you could share the setup parameters for the15 deg v-bit in the Carveco tools database?

Thank you for sharing such a great video, I found it to be very helpful. I've been struggling with similar issues as I figure out how to do v-carve inlays with Carveco. If anyone can share how to setup a ball nose endmill (carving bit) in Carveco to use for v-carve inlays that would be a huge help. I have an Amana 46282 (5.4 Deg Tapered Angle Ball Tip 1/16 Dia x 1/32 Radius x 1 x 1/4 Shank x 3 Inch Long x 4 Flute Solid Carbide Up-Cut Spiral) that I'm trying to use for v-carve inlays. I'm not sure how to account for the 1/32" tip radius. If I enter it as a v-bit or a radiused engraving tool the male insert is very loose. I have been successful using a 60 degree v-bit for v-carve inlays with a night snug fit. But cannot seem to figure out how to setup these finer carving bits to use for the v-carve inlays with more detail.

I have always been amazed by the eternal rant from municipal construction auditors in the US ranting about "building code this, that and the other" yet allowing cabling and wiring to run through a perfectly good house more resembling a rats maze than human living space. It never seizes to amaze me. Thank you for not starting to cut out inlays in the floor beams at least. :)

Very very nice work, 👍👍

This is illegal because you didn't use any nail plates of the wires.

Please stop using that garbage music.

Smart thinking. The more you do this kind of thing, the more the simple answers come to you.

Good idea, but it would have been easier, cheaper and faster to use firring strips or 1x2s and ordinary hammer and nails instead of 2x4s and screws. Good luck with your new channel.