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Great video as always!!!

Your rotundifolias are fine, they are in winter bud mode ( hibernaculum ) it will wake up again next spring. It probably went into hibernaculum early because of the TDS stress. You can buy a cheap pool sand in 40 - 50 pound bags from Ace hardware or other supply houses that sell pool supplies. As long as it is 100% sand its safe for your CPs. As for your Drosophyllum, they are impossible to kill unless you try transplanting them, They do not mind cooler temps and I leave mine outdoors till the temps start dipping below 50 degrees for long durations. Then I move them inside. Thing to remember about Drosophyllum, is that you tray water them till they flower. Once they flower ONLY top water them. By doing this they will continue to live on long after flowering. Flowering is usually a death sentence for Drosophyllum. Your Spidermans look okay, its just a real slow grower similar to any of the Kim Jong flytraps. They can take a few seasons to fully mature size wise.

You are very smart.

Its always nice to see how other people grow and keep their plants, and how well some grow and some don't, like your water cooler for the Cobra's

nice plants dude great hobby

Your plants are showing great improvement, especially your carpensis. John does not do tissue cultures and either seed grows, leaf Pullings or divisions. Your mystery pot of drosera look like either intermedia or nidiformis. More likely intermedia though.

Those seeds are 100% viable. Seeds are black, pods are dry and bursting open. All the signs of viable seeds. The bug could be hoverflies, they are pollinators that are not bees but a type of fly.

Nice work!! Plants are looking amazing!!! The Darlingtonia are very healthy!!

Thanks for the info! I’m new to carnivorous plants; I’ve quite a lot of VFTs, sundews, and butterworts but only a few different types of pitcher plants. I didn’t know to rinse my big box store moss but it makes sense! Though you’re new, I dig your channel!

Just a heads up on your VFTs, cross breeding does not produce the cultivar. Since Dionaea is a single species it can only produce itself as a typical 99% of the time. The 1% that you get are mutated forms but may not be the same as the cultivar. If you want to reproduce the cultivar you must either tissue culture the plant itself or do leaf propagation. About 80% of your drosera species can comeback from their roots and its a very easy way to propagate them. Off of a single root I can normally get 5 - 20 plantlets. Your winter growing drosera may be affected by the high TDS and that may be the reason why it did not go dormant when it should have. When buying LFS, only two brands you should use and are both available on Amazon are either Best Grow or Better Grow sphagnum I personally use the Best grow which comes as a medium size brick in an orange and white bag. I would link it but RUclips doesn't allow repliers to link.

Never knew they like being in water logged soil. If the ones you lost had root rot then am sure you know what caused it.

I noticed that you labeled all of your VFT seeds, you are aware that the cultivar trait is not transitioned into the seed right? So in other words out of a hundred seeds you may have one that carries over some traits of the cultivar with the rest just being typical. This happens because there is only one species of VFT and you are not creating a hybrid. As for wintering I would skip dormancy for the first year on your seedlings. Winters can be rough on seedling plants and I myself skip two years till I know there is a solid rhizome and root development to support the plant during dormancy. I personally move all my VFT and sars in my basement in front of a window for the winter. As long as your temp stays below 50F your plants will do fine. While on this topic I feel very strongly that temp has little to do with dormancy, but photo period does. I have had temperate sundews go dormant in my 70+ degree house that were getting light only from a window. As spring came on the photo period increased and the plants woke up.

Since you are using the same water for both the indoor and outdoor plants, I am going to rule that out. Also, I live in the Northeast, and we have major temperature swings from 90 during the day to high 50s at night and my capensis never curl, so I will rule out temp. What I think might be your problem is light. Sundews thrive on light and your shade cloth and other pots are shading them. This MIGHT be the issue but of course I am not there so it's hard for me to say watching a video. Only other thing could be your soil mix, I use a standard 1:1 peat/perlite mix and do yearly repots. One other thing about water and carnivorous plants is as long as your TDS is under 50ppm you will be fine.

Drosophyllum lusitanicum can remain in a tray system till they flower. Once they flower you want to stop tray watering and only top water it till it dies. Usually flowering means the death of the plant but even that can be prolonged. Most pygmies dont like to be transplanted because their roots are so small and fine that usually you break so many roots that the plant dies. your scorpioides are a larger pygmy and are somewhat easier to transplant although I dont recommend it. Its hard to tell but your water level looks a bit low which has pros and cons, the pro is that your plants roots are well aerated and allows for less chance of bacteria growth. The con is that the plants are going to send their roots all the way down to the water level to survive. While I understand your reason for your auto fill on the table, I find that letting the water evaporate in a table and then refilling it is actually beneficial to the plant and maintains a healthier root system. With the evaporating you are allowing constant exchange of oxygen to the roots. Think of it this way, as the water is evaporating it is causing a suction at the top of the pot pulling oxygen down through the top into the soil to the roots. Then when you refill the tray you repeat the process over again keeping a good natural cycle going. Just remember, in the wild water levels never remain the same from month to month, season to season.

Your little darlintonia is still alive, I would move it since its in direct competition with what looks to be D. intermedia. Funny thing about cephalotus is that a lot of people dont know that they were originally found along the coast of Australia and are often hit with ocean sea spray. When first imported growers use to actually spray their plants down with a salt solution thinking the plant needed this to survive.

Your plant inside your scorpioides tray is a species of Drosera filiformis. No way of telling if its Florida red, Pine Barrens or some other variety of filiformis since you mentioned it was from a mixed seed packet. Your darlingtonia look great and it may not be lack of sunlight that is causing it to be green I have seen large plants in full sun that were mostly all green might be a number of factors why they are green instead of red, such as water quality, temperature, soil mix etc.

I'm starting sarracenia seeds next spring! Yours look really nice!😁

Nice set up 👍🏾 What's your root temperature??

I just got my first cephalotus yesterday.... Plan on keeping it inside under a grow light.... Could you video your setup??