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Sadly archive.org is down, not sure how quickly they'll be back online. In the meantime here a link, I had two files, I think this is the right one, newer date, I can't check the original. Should be live for about a week: gofile.io/d/wgoY5u (vaio-vgn90hs-vista.rar)

Yes, I format the CF card and make it bootable, either in another DOS machine or with Rufus, and then make a folder and copy the contents of a Windows 95/98 CD to it. You can then start the setup wizard from that folder when you boot the libretto, it doesn't have to be run off separate install media

It's not really possible to upgrade this machine like that. It'll always be pretty outdated and slow at this point and not really possible to do modern tasks. If you want one as a collector it can be cheaper to pick up from japan auction sites, though better to buy a few things since shipping is high. You'd be much better off picking up a used laptop for a cheap modern PC

Alright but pls try to put intel i3 or i5 or just put 8GB ram it will be a really faster and smoother

​@@jasonnovak2121ok put pls man I really wanted to see if it's faster than the older cpu

@@HristoVidinov it's not really possible, everything is soldered down, while you could put in a faster atom processor, it's impossible to put in a newer generation since the motherboard is custom and the bios / circuity won't work with newer hardware

​@@jasonnovak2121ok well can you try atleast install windows 11 or windows 10 with a new video pls can I get shoutout

Thanks, I should probably for an errata for this video since it was one of my earlier ones before I did the OS tour, and I have the original box and materials. The laptops I got with the original boxes tended to come with extra nubs. It probably won't help much but the bag has 412178301. It has two styles, a rounded black tip with grit coating and a gray tip with flat textured pattern top. You can find generic nubs on eBay in both styles that seem to have the same connector, though most common in thinkpad red.

Thanks, it's a KORAD KA3005D I picked up from Amazon. It got lots of recommendations as a cheap reliable unit on a few forums

I do have a few non-name modern USB drives, I'd guess they're direct drive. They seem to work fine, but I tend to use an old sony vaio ufd5 usb drive, I feel like it's probably a higher quality unit

Great, glad I could help - most of my videos I'm trying things people haven't really documented yet and wish I'd had myself beforehand

It all evaporates :) Want to make sure no vinegar left

True, many of laptops I do have nicad/nimh batteries so I remove out of habit, but this is new enough to have a lithium cell, though it was dead. I'll probably try to replace some in the future, I keep the old ones, will help with some of the odd connectors.

@@jasonnovak2121 the battery in u is rechargeable. Try to leave the device on charge with the main battery inserted during the night, backup battery will recover. In all my u and ux devices it works well.

Yeah, a little confusing, they typically call these 1.8" adapters "CF to toshiba 50-Pin Adapters". You're right there are only 44 pins on the ribbon cable from the PC, if you check 24:14 you can see were 3 rows, ie 6 pins, aren't connected and row 1 starts on the 4th row. I'm guessing those other pins have some other special purpose generally not needed, so it mostly works like a 44 pin 2.5" drive

Thanks, personally I just use a cheap little powered adapter, works well enough for me: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GZ159FJ/ To actually capture VGA the Epiphan AV.io HD seems to be the most recommended from what I've found, I'm keeping an eye out for one used, generally I like to record the laptop screen directly with a camera, but for anything more would want to capture directly.

This was one of my earlier videos, I didn't off the OS initially. I may revisit some of these. I do Windows on the L1, though it's running Me instead of XP

Oh, I see

Sorry, no extra batteries. One of my W100s didn't come with one and it took me a long time to find one, basically had to get someone selling one with an extra battery to sell it separately. Kind of have to have one since it's part of the base. I was able to rebuilt the dead one I bought following another video: ruclips.net/video/RuaPx7TeP-Y/видео.html

Yeah, the BIOS is pretty basic and no setting there, nothing in the hwsetup app either. I'm just using the stock windows hard drive controller drivers, your best chance is to get the official 110CT IDE drivers, I kind of recall some kind of optimized drivers are available

@jasonnovak2121 I'm using a cf card adapter. Would these drivers still work for it? Also, any idea where I can find these drivers?

@@spartanwarrior9755 I believe it should be fine on either a CF card or real HDD. The best place to check is archive.org, go to the software section and search for libretto 110ct (thought 100ct should work) and there a few recovery disks / driver sets

Thanks! A few suggestions, I assume no signs of life, fans, even a power led? Test the power supply itself for 16v, it could be bad or the plug end damaged to only work when the cord is at a specific angle. Test the jack on the laptop, I replace mine in this video since it was damaged and was very picky on how the adapter was plugged in. Next check the fuse on the board near the power supply, looking at the video it looks to be at timestamp 20:03, F1200 on the top edge / upper right corner right above the screw hole.

@@jasonnovak2121 power supply is working. No led at computer when power on pressed. I will check the power jack to see if it's receiving power and the fuse in next step. Have you Facebook, whatsapp or email?

@@G40rocket You can use contact under the channel details for my email

Mostly, the difference is the hardware, the U71P has a 1.1GHz Pentium M and 512MB of RAM while the U50 has a 900mhz Celeron and 256MB of RAM.

I think it depends on if have US or Japanese region, the buttons are overloaded with a lot of characters, but you should be able to access via shift or function combos. Probably doesn't make for the best in games with awkward combos. Some key are a bit confusing, like the \ for paths, the key works, but is a different character onscreen, still treats like a \ though.

@@jasonnovak2121 Yeah I worked it out finally

Does it seem like it's completely dead, no CPU fan or backlight? I wouldn't give up on it yet - I'd try at least unplugging and re-seating the wires and ribbon cables from the screen, since they're fairly easy to access, and the LCD cables or power button are my first thoughts. Did it work before tearing it down?

@@jasonnovak2121 It did not work before, I think there is CPU fan, no backlight. I would try it with an external monitor but I currently have no cable but really I only want it if the screen works. I shall try your suggestions again anyway. It came from a very local Ewaste so I shall put out feelers there for one that works. [You should see what they get given!] The very good laptop I am using now comes from there for only 30 Aussie dollars.

@@SubTroppo It's possible the inverter / backlight is bad, you can check by shining a flashlight at the screen at a few angles, though I'm not sure about finding a used inverter. I believe the video out is a mini vga jack, you can can adapters, I know apple used them in their iMacs, but I'm not sure everyone wired them the same so may not work. Otherwise I'd say start with fuses, there is one by the power supply, I can't quite tell but looks white component at 12:31 near the b4 marking, but I'd suspect it would have no life at all if that was blown.

@@jasonnovak2121 Thanks. I'll take a look. I watch Curiousmarc & Mend it Mark but I have no real electronics skills. I just do the obvious fault finding. The bloke from whom I got it has all the gear including for micro-soldering [he also has a mass spectrometer he used to maintain in his work] so he might be interested in the having a look. ps Too many devices anyway!

​@@jasonnovak2121hi, ive got a u100 with the LCD and cables already ripped out, do you have the model number of the LCD? And what type of connector does it use? Im trying to search for a replacement/substitute LCD. If I can't find a 7.2 inch then I might be forced to find a 7.0 inch LCD.

Have you upgraded to a CF / SSD solution? 5 min is a bit slow even for vintage hardware, my first thought would be a spinning HDD that is failing. It sounds like it does boot, but in some cases it can get stuck with a dialog and you need to alt-tab to close it, like a date or swap file warning.

@@jasonnovak2121 mine has the CF card and adapter like yours

@@Raptor50aus assuming nothing is off with Windows itself, it's possibly the CF card, the raw read/write speed but also the random speeds / iops. I've tried some generic unbranded CF cards before that were noticeably slower. Otherwise possibly no swap file / filter driver is not industrial, but doubtful

@@jasonnovak2121 All good the date and time were incorrect It boost fast now

Sure, 1.8" options are bit more limited, I've used a few can see covered here, ruclips.net/video/wJ7kzYa8isY/видео.html - but in general the IDE interface is also going to cap the performance of a SATA drive a lot. For 2.5" I usually go sata/msata

There should be a VGN-# or similar model number on the bottom sticker which should give more details if you google it

@@jasonnovak2121 cool thanks. I think it's 2012, but idk

@@LostShadowGD what's the model number?

@@jasonnovak2121 idk I'm on holiday, so can't check