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Quick video to show how much I have torn down the Willys and both how good and how bad it is. Rotten wood Good metal Great possibilities

Sorry to say but the Essex has to go to make way for the Willys Whippet. While I would love to finish restoring it as it has a very tidy body its just a time and space constraint I don't have. This is likely to be the last video in this series (unless it doesn't sell) but then it will be a few years before I come back to it at best. Enjoy the Willys Whippet Build Though

Just a quick video to introduce my 1930 Willys Whippet Four. It was sold as a 28 but the seller was wrong. The chassis (96A) was only made from 29-31 and the fitted accessories definitely show it as a Canadian Willys Whippet. How it got here to little old NZ ... no one knows. This is the car I originally wanted before I bought the Essex last year but the owner just wouldn't sell it to me back t...

Just a quick update on the stripping as its been a while and Ive been slack. Ripped into it over the last few days and got the rear panel, firewall, both front panels, driver side a,b,c pillars and floor back to bare steel and brunox'ed. Couple of broken bolts needed drilling but it should be salvagable. 1 side to go then start on the inside I guess.

Recce Run for the MRCC Committee

Quick update video to show a couple of the panels I have taken back to bare steel (where possible) before treating them with a first coat of Brunox. Question on the brake rods and steering column if you can answer them? Chassis mods discussed. My first shiny parts .....

So the LS1 in my 58 Chevy Apache over the last 18 months has had a random, intermittent miss, only while at idle and only once warm. The miss causes a backfire or pop out the left exhaust bank which can be quite violent at times and scares the hell out of pedestrians who think they are be shot at. I finally delved into it with the tuner and I think we finally figured it out. The issue is with t...

After almost 2 years I was finally fed up with the teeny tiny Speedway Motors fuel filler.... so out it goes. In its place will be a JK Jeep Wrangler setup which I wish I had thought about years ago as I would have constructed the fuel tank filler system to fit that before mounting the deck boards. Oh well. Its in now.

As you can see from the title the teardown is all but completed. I am stuck only on removing the brake/handbrake rods that run across the chassis but I have started on removing rust, paint, and 90years of dirt and grime... watch this space...

Progress made in the teardown of my 1929 Essex. Most of the bolt on panels have been removed, the interior has begun and now the decision on how to clean the panels and prep them for paint has begun. I DIDN'T END UP GOING TO DIPPERS OR BLASTING BUT DID IT BY HAND MYSELF ...

When you install the Altman bear claw style door catches in your 55-59 Chevy truck you get supplied a second door skin that bolts atop the normal upper door panel which then bolts to the door iteself. This creates a lot of rattles. In this video I show what I did to remedy this , basically, cut the door panel, spot the skin , sand prime and paint. Eventually I am going to cover the upper panel ...

Quick video just after I got my 1929 Essex Super Six home from its barn find location. This car was likely last on the road about 1990 from what I can ascertain, meaning it has been off the road for nearly 30 years (1/3 of its life). I hope within the next 6 years to give it some new life and get it back on the road before it turns 100. Enjoy the ride because I have no idea where this is going ...

So the other day I final got the old girl dyno'd over at Eastern Automotive Performance (EAPC) in East Tamaki and I am pretty happy with the result. It made 395rwhp and had over 500nm of torque from about 2000rpm until 6000rpm where it dropped off (redline 6400) Engine/trans from a 2001 VT Holden Commodore (LS1/4L60). Rebuilt bottom end with stock rods and pistons Stock PCM tuned with HPTuners ...

In this video I didn't change the front cable from the original video (Part 64) other than to re route it. The front cable now run down the left chassis rail to a t-bar. There is a return spring attached to the t-bar From the t-bar it splits to two cables The left cable goes to a short run to the factory rear c4 cable The right cable crosses the chassis to the right rear factory c4 cable. With ...

NZHRA Zone 2 Memorial Run 14 August 2022

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 75 - Eddie Motorsport Hinges

C4 Apache - Upper A-Arm Twist (from 1m30 on)

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 74 - Fixing Front Suspension Twist

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 73 - Rear Camber, Toe & PCV Fixed

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 72 - C4 Corvette Camber & Toe Corrections

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 71 - C4 Corvette Rear Camber & Toe

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 70 - Speedway Motors Fuel Trap Door Review

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 69 - Bed & Widened Arches 99% Done

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 68 - Bed & Widened Arches

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 67 - General Updates @ 90% Complete

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 66 - Aldan Door Catch Solutions

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 65 - Hoods & Hinges (55/57 vs 58/59)

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 64 - Emergency Brake Try 1

1959 Chevy Apache - Part 63 - Fixing C4 Rake & Lokar Bits Installed