Видео

@ericdoney1424 you're welcome, I'm assuming the spoke windows are where the raw aluminum is?... take your time and use cutting compound like the 439t from menzerna that I use in this video on your dremel. When you sand you want to move quickly back and forth with your sanding bits so it doesn't leave ripples in the spoke windows. You can move slower with the cutting g compound just working it back and forth until it cuts out the imperfections

@DR-um2bv chrome eventually flakes and pits on wheels especially because of the nature of wheels being close to the ground moving fast and road debris (sand gravel rocks salt etc.) Are unavoidable. People who bought these wheels in the late 90's - mid 2000's in chrome are WISHING they bought them in polished aluminum today because they are worth 400% more money on average if they're aluminum because they can be restored easily compared to the same wheel chrome plated

@@WillUnderwood-l1o thank you! I'm glad you liked it

@JeffreyLind-o7c thanks for the kind words and you're welcome! Good luck with your wheels 🤙

Im Glad that's working for you but to be frank with you I have tried 6" paper on a 5" DA and I don't do it specifically because it ripples the outer edge that overlaps the sander and acts as a lower sandpaper grit which will create more work than necessary. Again if that's working for you don't change it but I've never had any success doing that

@@brackishindustriesHaven’t tried yet, I will keep your suggestion in mind. Ordered also the foam hock n loop pad in 6’ on a 5’, lets see.

@noelmanastyrski5825 in the case of these valve covers they will pretty much stay like that because they go on a race car that only comes out in good weather. In the event that they were on a car that was driven in rain or even maybe had coolant or something splatter and each them, a good liquid polish and a clean microfiber will keep them looking good

@stevenjamieson5461 you're welcome! The code doesn't work anymore, spectrum lowered the cost so everyone pays the same price

@brackishindustries lol the only code us Canadians know is cold, hard cash. Ive been reluctant to place an order with Chris because I wasn't familiar with the combos. Ty for your video. Ive been struggling for a few years to get that perfect result. And sand paper is the first problem and rouge is the second problem. If i may ask 1 question. Do you acid before you sand or after. Ty again Im your new fan.

@stevenjamieson5461 thank you! To answer your question it technically doesn't matter, BUT... I prefer before sanding because it releases embedded brake dust and contaminants that will clog sand paper requiring more sand paper to be used than necessary

@@msantoni32 thanks man I'm glad you enjoyed it!

@@MoparFuel thank you! your welcome

@ryanjackson587 hey Ryan thanks for trying, since this video was produced Spectrum remove their discount programs whether it be wholesale or promotional like in this video and made their best possible price available to everyone

@@paulborg9609 you are welcome!

@@TheGoochmeister are you on instagram?

@@brackishindustries yes @feng.shui911

​@@brackishindustries I also second this. But in Virginia. I have a lot more questions for the overall polishing stuff and materials.

@@cushingjr6601 messag me in Instagram my handle is @deanryan08

Weld racing 16.5x14 stonecrushers

You're welcome!!

Thank you! Although I personally have not tried an electric motors, I can say I have a few friends who build wheel stands with a belt drive for an electric motor and all of them have unhooked the motor and run the wheel free spinning just as I do in this video. It is a great idea but the challenge is that I'm constantly stopping and starting the wheel and changing the wheels turning pace as I'm working. With the Rope/foot brake, I don't need to stop working and change a dial to get the wheel to speed up or slow down whereas with an electric motor and a variable speed switch I'd be stopping constantly to modify speed

Spectrumalberta.ca you can find all of the mini buffs and the flanges to mount them on a polisher

@brackishindustries Solid find my man! I was looking everywhere for these before posting my last comment. Sucks that shipping is outrageous to the U.S., but for the convenience of their size, I may just buy them anyways, perhaps in bulk.

Yes it is. Thanks!

They really are 🤦

Thank you for the kind words and you're welcome! I'm glad you liked it 👍

The bauer you saw me referring to is a model #1814E-B (i removed the plastic handle from the head) and you go on Amazon and copy and paste: TORQ BUFLC201 R5 Dual-Action Backing Plate with Hyper Flex Technology, Red (5 Inch you will find the exact backing plate I'm using. Keep in mind that is NOT a rotary machine is is a dual action paint polisher. Rotary machines use a 5/8 thread and paint polishers use a 5/16 as you mentioned. These machines work great with a wide barreled wheel like the 14 wide weld in this video. The problem is because they throw and they spin at the same time, they bump edges alot and don't do well with skinny barrels or anywhere where there's a transition or lip. Without seeing your wheel I can't advise. DM me pictures on Instagram @deanryan0899 if you'd like me to take a look and advise accordingly on how to address your wheels

@@brackishindustries Thank you so much for getting back to me so quick... I'm trying to send you pics on instagram but couldn't find your account or maybe I'm doing something wrong... LOL.... If you send me your email maybe that would be easier.... Thanks!

Nevermind... I found you as deanryan08.... I'll send you pics now for your guidance.

Thank you! And you're welcome. More to come as I have time to do so 🤙

Hey thank you, so recently we made the decision to kill the discount code and give everyone the max available discount instead of a referral based program where someone who didn't know had to pay more. Right now everything on the website is at the best available price

Thanks! Had to get my point acrossed somehow 😆

Thank you!

I haven't worked with work wheels specifically but I have done plenty of CCW in the past which appear to have similar lips. Sanding these lips can be difficult because there's not much lip/barrel to fit a sander in and make it look right. If I were you I would try to cut he heck out of the lip and avoid sanding at all costs (because if you make defects by accident there's really no fixing them without completely taking the wheel apart and screwing the outer barrel to a board and polishing them that way. Also, if your renters are painted, powdercoated, or anything other than raw aluminum, I would create a tape buffer at the outer portion of the spoke where it meets the barrel if you're machine polishing them like I did in this video. My preferred method is to put painters tape over the spoke where the buff might hit it, then duct tape over the painters tape, then painters tape over the duct tape electives making a painters, duct, painters tape sandwich. This is the best way to give yourself Insurance of not accidentally hitting the coating and removing it, but also taking the tape back off without lifting g the coating. Hope that helps

Welds are actually much softer than forces especially any forces made after wheel pros acquired them. I do them the exact same way I do these welds but I don't take the tire off. Stay tuned hoping to have a force video out this summer

Good! There's more than one product out there. Use what works best for you

Thanks! The part of the video around the time I start cutting the rivets around the outer lip is exactly how I would do the rivets on eneki blades, depending on the severity I might try and attack the the same way you see me cutting the lug pad (the wheel on its back on the ground and firmly holding the buffer with your hands and the wheel with your feet using the "grip and rip" method once all the way around the wheel moving your body around the wheel clockwise positioning the buffer at 9oclock going all the way around, then repeat going counter clockwise with the buffer at 3oclock again going all the way around so that both sides of your rivets have been polished

Thanks man!!! @@brackishindustries

@@irz587 any time 👍

Did you mean 15x14? or 15x4? Are you having problems sanding the face or the barrel?

@@brackishindustries15x4. Having problems sanding it because I don’t have room enough to do it correctly. Thanks for responding back. That means a lot sanding the whole wheel 🛞

@@brackishindustriesyes I keep doubling my work because of the small area too sand. I can’t get my DA to sand the wheel 🛞 like you’re describing. The 15x4 weld Wheel 🛞 is very hard to do. Thanks

@@brackishindustriesdo you have any suggestions?

@@brackishindustriesI will try. Thanks

Thanks!

Anytime!

@@brackishindustries Hey no problem about the delay, I only do youtube. I appreciate you reaching back out just the same. Ill just call spectrum. Thanks again

This is absolutely true with regard to flat stainless. Very difficult to get enough heat to polish it but not enough to warp it. Since we did this project I've done a few other stainless pieces that did not warp as bad but this one was definitely one of the most difficult

Do a little at a time and do not stay in one area too long

Thank you! No not necessarily. I occasionally stop at 600 myself but I have found that cutting out the sanding especially for beginners is much nicer at 800 versus 600

I've done a few of them, I use a tool called a jawhorse to hold them

Thank you! No I don't; The menzerna compounds have natural sealants in them last several months if not more than a year if well maintained. I've tried shark hide, clear powder coat, wax, ceramic coating, and a few other protectants that I'm probably forgetting to mention. All of which will add surface protection but at the cost of clarity of the wheel. Right now you can read the serial number in the reflection of a $100 bill clear as day, once one of these protective coatings is applied, That seem reflection gets much more blurry. Not saying some people might be okay with that but my preference is to have as much of that deep rich reflective clarity as I can get

In my opinion the best way to go about polishing a knife blade would be to find a way to either clamp the blade in an area that won't be seen and begin polishing or If there is holes in it to fasten the handle to it, screw those holes into a piece of plywood and polish the blade while it's on the plywood. You don't want to take a chance on catching an edge and sending it flying. Something else to keep in mind is spectrum Alberta sells mini buffs that are about 5 in in diameter maybe six, either way these would be far better suited for doing something as small as a knife blade compared to the 10-in buffs that you see me using

Thanks for the tips makes sense. Will look into the smaller buffs@@brackishindustries

Search "red max compound bar zephyr polishing" it will show up

Send me one. I'll do it