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Dimka krasava

i'd probably go for an edge base solution, like the pads on an esp32, or if that's too expensive, a clothespin with hotglued wires, akin to a poor mans smd programer clip but on the edge of the board

I didn't take a close look at your drill bit, but some drill bits are centerless ground, which leaves microscopic grooves around the shank, try to spin your new rod in a drill and sanding it with a 320 sandpaper and see if it behaves differently. I am enjoying your channel, keep up the good work!

That's a really cool idea and process! It occurs to me the footprint looks to end up about the same, maybe slightly larger, than a standard JST SH connector.

Amazing.

Can the courtyard (of no-components) zone can be reduced by putting the pads near the edge of the board?

The "Z" is hurting my ears so hard

If you really want to use this kind of mechanism, I wouldn't make 5 individual springs, but instead focus on just a single spring on the drill bit side. If it doesn't work with a piece of steel rod, it's probably because the surface is too smooth for the tiny contact area - so maybe roughen it up a bit (or make a dent or hook) or just take another material that has more fiction. (And since we're dealing with 3D printing... Layer lines can have their benefits too if you know how to use them, you know? ;D) I would take a step back though and think about what the actual goal is: Press pins firmly against the contacts. Why not go with a clothespin-style design where you clamp it on from the edge and a single spring that puts pressure from the bottom and the top holds everything into place? If you're worried that not all pins make perfect contact, print everything in 90A TPU, leave tiny comb-like gaps in the pin arms that act like mini springs (keep in mind that you probably won't need more than 1mm action anyway) or incorporate o-rings / washers made of rubber, and if necessary increase the clamp pressure.

Where are the 2 minute paper fans here... W"hat a great time to be alive" 🙋🏾‍♂️🙋🏾‍♂️ 8:35

Make a pcb small mimicking the pads and holes , make a plastic pad to cover the new pcb, with the connector will be your plug, in the ailment could also be plastic, and in the middle make a thread and put a plastic screw from the bottom of the pcb. If the pads are in the back of the pcb will be much better same idea , but the screw will also hold the pcb.

Out of curiosity, have you considered taking your pin out pattern and making another custom PCB with the same pattern inverted, and connected to a usb/serial output? You could still align using the ground and drill bit that way, and you might be able to shave the other PCB closer to the other pads potentially eliminating the issue of interference with those closer components.

Awesome solution!

How about moving the contacts completely off the PCB by making a sacrificial break-away area on the opposite side of the screw hole? You could also make a double-sided break-away protrusion from that corner which fits an 8P SOIC test clip. Those are extremely cheap! I have received them free with programmers that only cost a couple dollars. Just make the “mouse bite” edges castellated with the whole thing being the same width as an SOIC-8.

I like your design well done.

in the first design and the last design, why not use a wingnut with a nylon spacer if needed on the ground bolt? and then an entirely new idea is a clothespin style clamp that has the pins orientated on one side of the clothespin (when i say clothespin im talking about the 2-piece spring loaded pinch your finger style not the friction based one-piece dolly peg)

thank you very much!

really like the flexure approach. excellent use of creativity and 3d printer! looking at the design, my opinion (but i haven't used it) would be to put 1/2 of the pins on the bottom layer. this would reduce the square area required and be more stable. think alligator clip that uses the square corner of the PCB for alignment. Still, really impressed with a working prototype that looks clever and usefull!

2:34 -> 11:27

Interesting to see. My suggestion that use those 5x Through-holes in a line. Adjust the diameter to make the (square cross-section) pins lightly loose. The pins are supported by plastic sleeves that hold them apart, but allows independent and minor flexional play. Reaction force can come from a guiding hole (could,position anywhere), or just use position near a border of the PCB for that, with a flat “hand” holding from the border to the bottom side.

Первая версия мне понравилась больше (как и многим в комментариях). Что если сделать расположение контактов не по кругу а в линию? На линию ниже, по краям, расположить 2 отверстия диаметром 1 мм для пинов который будут выравнивать и фиксировать весь разъем. Вместо сверла можно попробовать использовать PLS штырьки и весь разъем распаять на маленькой плате, без 3d печати. Просто не на всех печатных платах бывают отверстия 2 мм для крепления, иногда отверстий и вовсе нет, а футпринт там внушительный получается вместе с полигонами земляными.

Hello Dima, luckily I found your channel today and subscribed. I am impressed by your comprehensive knowledge and skill in so many related fields. You are an important role model for me. Thank you very much for this easy-to-understand explanation in a very pleasant English language. Best wishes from Vienna.

А есть русская версия?

Not sure if this is better than just simple female header points on the pcb. Doesnt seems like much size difference

just have plated tru holes and the pins sticking in

Look for High Speed Steel (HSS) for the 1mm rod.

In the old Nokia N8 mobile phone, some of the spring-loaded pins were built in. This solution is safer, more robust and, what is important, very small. I find it very interesting to be part of your tinkering. The way and not the destination is important.

NICE !!!!

I've worked in Engineering Development for nearly all of my career and I'd say that it's pretty common to develop something that works and then go back and simplify and refine the design for the final product. You have to do the proto first to understand the limiting factors and assess your design concepts. It's an iterative process. Nice work, great video and your English is excellent. Thank you.

This is a really good idea. It was nice to see your process as you pursue it.

good stuff

Спасибо что делишься. Сам очень потихоньку строю что-то ровероподобное но чуть побольше раза в 4 с утилитарной целью - мониторить "владения" 14 гектар. Успехов!

офигенно

Really innovative idea and thanks for sharing. My biggest concern would be how to do in-circuit programming if installed in some housing/enclosure? The point of using a mount hole as part of the connector means that would be “populated” with an actual mount screw on the board, if you are talking about a “production” or already installed unit you are trying to troubleshoot or upgrade. However, maybe this could actually “kill two birds with one stone”, if you rely upon _something_ acting as a nut or mounting stud underneath the connector. Engaging the center screw/bolt into something on the back of the pcb mount hole could actually help with alignment, correct contact depth & tension, and eliminate the (some) need for reliance upon connector torsion for tension. This could then be used both out of enclosure (where you 3d print some floating stud (mount post, maybe with heatset threaded insert, etc), or if mounted in an enclosure, you can remove the enclosure’s screw from the mounting location, and then the screw from the connector would use the existing mounting boss/stud in the enclosure for security.

Are you russian or Norwegian and russian accent sounds same?

Great video, albeit a bit slow

The first thing to consider is if you even need that many pins. When I program STM32 boards all you really need is 3 pins, swdio, swclk and gnd. You don’t really need the others, so if you can cut your pin count down then it may make it even easier to design your programmer and take up even less board space. Another idea would be some sort of clamp or peg that goes onto the corner of the board, it would need the backside clear (although maybe not) or you could put contacts on the back side too and it shouldn’t need any sort of spring mechanism on the pins themselves meaning they don’t have a larger footprint than the pads since the spring would be in the clamp.

What about a cloth clip design? And 4 stright pin at the end and a hole?

Another idea would be is print the alignment pin but have a locking clip where the screw is like the expensive clip. Instead of bending the pin CA glue the wires and they will have some play like the spring loaded pins.

Может просто использовать конструкцию прищерки?

You can get the ground from the center screw and move the 3.3v to the alignment pin. The alignment pin could just be an unbent connector. This leaves three pads/spring peaces.

nice video

Personally i like ones you can buy. works reliably and easy to replace. Have used them many years. i mean tinkering is fine if you doing it for fun. But if you doing it for work, no company will accept board with DIY thing. Maybe few yers later another engineer needs to work on software patch. They have no time to mess around with "can be made out of scrap" designe. Worker hours are valuble, so if worker cost say 30 USD/hour, you can buy ready made thing for that money.

a nice idea, bad mechanical knowledge (there are schools available), long video beating around bush.... 👎

luck means it was gifted to you from above

Wery well , Dima ! I'm from Belarus .

Your teleprompter technique is distracting. Maybe it's the distance or how much you look at it.

i have an idea but i'm not technical enough to put it properly in words. do you know the gator clips? a design like that but with the connector on one side and it uses the hole to align itself

4:15 dude just figured out how a variety of shop/fixture-table clamps work.

i wonder why placing a nut on the screw is not a securing mechanism you mention. it's the first thing i got in mind