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Im thinking of making plywood out of cardboard. Anyone done it?

I appreciate the video! Good info for me as I have been looking for a longer set time glue so I can align patterns on paper.

I see that you are using very thin strips to bend. My project is to bend hardwood for the top of a Windsor chair. It uses a piece that is about 29" long, 5/8" thick, 2 & 3/4" wide into an ellipse with a deflection of 5 & 1/2" in the center and a distance across the ends after being bent of 24". Hickory is recommended, but I am trying sapele (because I have a lot of it and I have no hickory on hand). I have read that sapele is notoriously difficult to bend unless it's very thin. Using a steamer for 2 hours, I was able to bend it about 1/2 of the way before it cracked on the outside. I am sure that it was kiln dried. It did keep its bend shape, however. It may be hopeless, but I'm soaking a new piece now over night in the bathtub and will try to steam it again for 6 hours tomorrow. I have read that the maximum thickness for hot pipe bending is 3/8". I may have to try bending 2 thinner strips of the sapele and then gluing them together, or just giving up and buying some hickory. My steaming setup consists of a 1 gallon Revereware pot sitting on a 1600 watt, infrared hot plate with a built-in timer. Half-filled, boiling occurs after about 5 minutes. The work piece is suspended inside a 6" diameter, galvanized, sheet metal, duct pipe with a cap on the top. The pipe has reflective insulation around it except for the very bottom and the cap. I painted 3 blotches on the cap using black spray paint. The painted areas measured over 200 degrees with an infra-red, food-grade pyrometer, and much lower on the unpainted areas of the cap due to reflection. The insulation is only rated up to 180 degrees, but so far it seems to have survived. The required time for steaming is said to be 1 hour per 3/4" thickness, more for kiln-dried wood, which most hardwood is, but my instruction book recommended steaming for 6-8 hours! That's a long time to keep an eye on it and about a dollar's worth of electricity (9.6 KWh). I have read that you only have 30 seconds to bend the wood after steaming. If true, it would take that long just to get the work piece out of the steamer and onto the work bench with getting it between the cauls and progressively clamping it taking much longer. Perhaps partially bending it and re-steaming it would be the way to go. Any suggestions?

Thank you! I was confused between the width and length. Lol This is the only place I could find answers. Or length and height omg.

For cleanest mortises, do you prefer the two-prong recip bit over spiral upcut? Do you always use side to side motion with gradual plunge, as shown in the video, or do you find it sometimes preferable (e.g., for deeper mortises) to make a series of full depth plunges with hole edges just touching, and then clean up with quicker side to side passes than would have been reasonable before the plunges removed the bulk of the waste? Thanks.

I did it myself with the Woodprix plans. I think this is the best way to find out how to build it.

that was riveting

WOW THIS IS great :D

entertaining presentation =D