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@@206898195311 Better late than never 😁

@@John-eu9vz I am very young 😁

I cover this topic in an earlier video at ruclips.net/video/p-e7kTSA30Q/видео.html The video quality isn't very good but the info is there.

@@defendermodsandtravels saw it, yes you've mentioned thanks.

@@RobertWalker-d2m A good compromise would be to use their clutch plate with a standard cover. My failures have all been in the clutch plates.

@@defendermodsandtravels a good idea!

Far better to fix things now in the relative comfort of the workshop than in the middle of an expedition. If you look at my very early videos about the conversion of this vehicle you will see the story behind the Daihatsu engine. Basically there were no Tdi engines available when I re-engined it more than 20 years ago.

I don't see the connection. The clutch is attached to the flywheel and all forces are self-equilibrating there. It's hard to see how these could affect the crankshaft thrust bearing.

@@defendermodsandtravels 'The load you’re putting on the clutch mechanism gets resolved by the crankshaft. That’s Newton’s third law. If you push on the rear end of the crankshaft, using the clutch, the crank has to push back, which means it suffers additional wear'. But don't take my word for it, the above came from John Cadogan, Ozzie engineer and car journalist.

@@RobertWalker-d2m You don't need to quote Newton's third law, it's just simple statics. Let's think about it. The force starts at the slave cylinder and this is counteracted by the fork pivot which in turn pushes on the clutch thrust bearing (this force is several times what the pushrod exerts owing to the geometry of the fork). The thrust bearing pushes on the diaphragm spring, which pushes on the flywheel and hence on the end of the crankshaft. You are right, this is resisted by the crankshaft thrust bearings. I didn't think it through - sorry. In overall terms the forces are pretty small and I'd be surprised if this caused failure of the crankshaft thrust bearings. What engine is it?

High frequency vibration under tensile load. Anything attached to the engine tries to work loose. There will be no corrosion. I'm bemused why you think SS is particularly prone to corrosion. Which mechanical properties are unsuitable for this application?.

@@defendermodsandtravels Sorry I thought the corrosion issue obvious, that is, the SS won’t corrode but will sacrifice everything else around it (given moisture and an electrolyte). As for the mechanical properties, and of course I don’t know what grade your SHCS are, but common 316 SHCS have a low tensile strength , much lower than class 8.8.

@@husq2100 There will be no galvanic cell because: 1. Moisture only gets up there rarely (deep wading etc). 2. The engine runs hot and if any moisture does get into the threads it will be evaoporated quickly. 3. I fill all external threads either with threadlock or with copper slip (depending on application) so water can't get in. Regarding the strength, even if the bolts were only the equivalent of Grade 4.6 (mild steel) they'd have a working load of 18 kN. If you do a simple statics calc considering the weight of engine and gearbox; the spacing of the mountings; the BM at the engine / adapter ring interface; the lever arm of the bolted connection and then apply a DAF you will quickly demonstrate that the bolt forces don't approach this number. In reality you want to torque the bolts up so the joint remains in compression and the bolt loads remain essentially constant. I have done this without stripping the threads and am satisfied that the bolts won't fail. Grade 316 actually has UTS of 515 MPa although quite a low yield stress (205 MPa). They'd be perfectly adequate for this application.

@@defendermodsandtravelsthanks for the detailed reply Bill 👍

@@husq2100 I didn't have much choice. Your comments made me look foolish so I had to reply. Anyhow you asked the questions and justified my choice of using SS.

I don't know why LR chose MS for the battery box given that the surrounding structure is Al. Although the batteries are heavy the box isn't highly stressed. With AGM or Li batteries there's no risk of spilt battery acid eating away the thin section.

The 300 Tdi is a great engine but you need to take care of it. I have fitted a low coolant alarm in my road going Disco 1.

Time will tell. If I change the clutch pedal box I'll be able to use the LOF spring which reduces the pedal load.

The solution is servo assistance.

@@lutherblissett9070 Yes but I don't yet know if there' a problem to solve.

I prefer to protect my hands from swarf and noxious fluids and when handling heavy workpieces with sharp edges. Thanks for your concern.

@@defendermodsandtravels haven’t I seen you wearing rubberised gloves? I remember thinking they looked like chem protection or perhaps electrical insulators.

I have communicated with Luke at LOF Clutches and we agree there's no particular reason to change the clutch fork when this one is still in vgc. I might however put a dab of weld metal on the back of the slipper pad pins-to prevent these from coming loose.

I too will be installing a M57 but with ZF 6 speed manual. I can understand why Bill would not be interested in these sorts of engines.

@@husq2100 Not for overlanding.

@@defendermodsandtravels they are bullet proof engines totally over engineered basically your making a grenadier lol

@@graham-martin5847 The problem is parts availability in developing countries. As good as the M57 is, it's not a common engine globally.

@@cameronwood1994 bullet proof take the basic plastic parts with you and your golden

Hi yes I remember but it was a few years ago. You have a Series LR and a nice camping set up under a big awning. Nice to hear from you.

That isn't reality. If you have a crack starting from the highest stressed location (top or bottom flange) it will then propagate through the member. It won't follow the weld, it'll be equally happy to go through parent metal. A change of direction of weld won't stop it. If you watch the videos published by the chassis welding guys they invariably say that the fancy joints are "way stronger". I have never seen anyone justify their weld details by arguing about crack propagation.

Well I've seen many welders on big equipment say it but I guess because you haven't I must be wrong. Thanks for correcting me.

If you can remove the seat box then the battery box is a doddle. If not it's a struggle. Make sure you get a box with squared off corners and you'll get a useful increase in storage space.

@@srw_cricket2976 Will the new sections butt against the old or overlap it? Regarding the cut, do whatever you find easiest to get a good fit up. Personally I'd do a straight cut which is just as strong as anything else. How good is your welding? If you're a good welder and can be sure to get good penetration and no defects then do a single sided butt. If there's any doubt add fillet welded reinforcing plates to the top and bottom flanges over the butts. If overlapping just do a fillet weld all round. I wouldn't bother with plug welds. The overlapped region will be a corrosion trap of course.

@@defendermodsandtravels Thanks, I’ve ordered a galv 1/4 with 6” extensions as there’s a little rot between the bump stops and cross member on one side. This means I can go farther back to find good clean original steel if necessary so I guess in answer, I can potentially go either way straight cut butt weld or overlap with the flanges. If butt will bevel all edges for penetration and was thinking of using internal tabs and rosette plugs for a smooth finish. I am newish to welding and have been practicing a lot.

@@jamesward5721 For exposed surfaces good old paint is fine. If it starts to break down you can see it and do local touch up. For the enclosed spaces any oily compound should be good. Various commentators have recommended ATF which is what I am using now Used ATF, of which I have a good supply, isn't noxious.

@@HeinerStorchennest1 I believe the Alisport 200 TDI radiator has the built in oil cooler coil although I don't use it. My problem is that this puts more heat into a radiator which is already working at its limit. I forget if this video shows it but I have two Mocal oil coolers mounted under the front cross member protected by a bash plate. The arrangement works very well and provides much needed additional cooling.

@@defendermodsandtravels Thanks for the quick response. I rember, that you mentioned a 17 row Mocal oil cooler. And a second one for the gearbox. I agree with you, the combination of water- and oil cooler ist an Advantage during the warming-up phase.

@@HeinerStorchennest1 From memory they are 13 row oil coolers (I am currently abroad, in Cambodia, so I can't have a look). Please note that it is virtually impossible to fit an oil cooler to a LT77 gearbox. It needs a casing with take off ports. These are very rare and were fitted, I think, to a particular model of Range Rover. Much better to fit a R380 box. You need the stubby box and bellhousing from Ashcroft Transmissions otherwise the geometry is different. If you are seriously interested in fitting oil coolers I will try to provide more information. There are several details you must get right.

@@defendermodsandtravels Thanks again. Take your time. Meanwhile I checked Ally Sports and it seems as If they offer TDi radiators without integral oil-coolers. By the way, they mention, that the aluminium radiators are primarly made for cooling, not for longevity, as I understand.

@@pwatom22 I have the standard drum handbrake in my Disco 1 which is utterly useless. My X brake in the Defender is a huge improvement however it has been reduced to a lump of rust by driving through saltpans in Botswana. It'll be a big restoration job unless I start again in which case I'd consider Terrafirma. This is being documented in the current video series.

@@Stephen-wc8fn From Nairobi that one from memory. I am currently abroad (Cambodia) so I can't look at it.

Yes but you are surely joking for me to fit modern alloy wheels onto a 33 year old ex-Army Defender. It would look absurd. I have looked at the Ray Eng website and they didn't seem to have rims which would suit my 7.50R16 high profile tyres - or am I wrong? I don't doubt that alloy wheels can but stronger than mild steel but I'd like to see the stress / strain curve for the alloy. I bet there's much less ductility. If I dent a rim on a rock (which I have thankfully never done) I can bash it back into shape which one probably can't do with an alloy wheel. I know your comment was well intentioned but I think you are barking up the wrong tree friend.

@@FOG-321 Just following tradition I think. The guys doing the welding aren't engineers and don't have the knowledge to question why they do the joints that way.

@@apistosig4173 Yes and no. We aren't privy to the supply contract and don't know if the supplier met it's contractual commitments. We don't know who did the design or what the spec said. On the other hand they were extremely foolish to sue Stefan IMO and don't think it will turn out well for them

@@richardheinen1126 Yes Michelin XZL.

@@defendermodsandtravels awesome!!! Thank You I really like that tread pattern

@@chriswalker4272 That Laser tool I bought for 12mm rivet nuts which I used to make a tilt for my big trailer. I put a new rear floor in my Disco and had about 200 pop rivets. It was a breeze. There was plenty of access however. Expect boxes to keep making fleeting appearances in odd places in next videos in the series just to keep viewers on edge. It will be more obvious that I'm poking fun though. There's plenty of technical comment to come but not enough time to make the videos.

@@chriswalker4272 Welcome to the club. I would also like to thank you sincerely for the invitation to camp on your property in the Cairgorms. Maybe a bit nippy up there? Earlier in my career in the oil industry I worked and lived guess where. I had a great time but tend not to go back that way too much - my radar is trained further afield these days. My mother's family were from Oban so I will always have a fond connection there. Follow my new series about upgrades to the 90. There's a lot of basic work being done but the videos will come out a bit slowly owing to time pressures

@@balloons472 So how old are you sonny? 45?😁

@@defendermodsandtravels the big 50 in March 👍🏼

@@balloons472 So you'll be big boy not sonny boy. Congrats.

@@defendermodsandtravels where’s the next adventure taking you ?

@@balloons472 South America planned next.

@@Willleau1 None. Stainless is pretty inert actually. I have used the awning in a variety of environmental conditions. It has been flawless.

@@FeedMeAQuarter Preaching to the converted. There's one video channel (of many) where the guy has fitted every possible accessory to his Defender and he only does a bit of gentle offloading. Well it keeps him happy I suppose and he's got way more subscribers than me so many people like it. There's also a LR dealership in the south of England where a customer with a Disco 4 (a very capable vehicle which can do the Baboon Pass in standard trim) said he wanted to go greenlaning at weekends. They persuaded him to fit a winch, aggressive tyres, diff lockers, the works and they trumpet it on their website. Absolute con artists IMO.

@@simonbarclay9507 Yes it"s too heavy,

@@defendermodsandtravels as i thought. I have a 235/85/16 on the bonnet of my 300Tdi and on rough roads (plenty of those here is Australia) it takes a hiding and i'm guessing a matter of time until there is a major failure at some point when I'm 2,000 kms from anywhere. i regularly check for cracks or metals fractures. I also have a rear mounted one on a swing-away Front Runner mount as it is prudent to carry two spares here, so have really run out of options (trying to keep weight low) unless I just carry the tyre carcass and change rims when required, but I'm too old for that sort of work ;-) .