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Theoretically, it should help with torque twist on steep climbs (keep from rising one of the front wheels), but besides that, on flat ground at low speed, it doesn't matter much. Another advantage is that it should keep the car more planted, especially on sidehill. In any case, it is generally better to have a higher mounting point on the axle than on the chassis/body for the upper links.

Thank you! I wrote my shock setup in the description if you are interested. 25% underdrive in rear axle. I like your nick, reminds me of the time I played UT 😆

You must have heavily modified Injora Buggy if you can crawl these rocks with it

@@driverc4357 yeah thats it... but if you'll just tell me your insta name ill be able to show you my rig🤷‍♂️

@@driverc4357 today i going to crawl near toto stadium at 18:00 so if you want we can crawl there together..

Write me yours and I'll PM you there

@@driverc4357 have you found me on instagram??

@@driverc4357 have you found me on Instagram ??

@@driverc4357 have you found me on instagram yet??

Arigatou 🙏

I dont understand what you mean, but thanks anyway! 😄

@driverc4357 dialed in. Sorry, i fat fingered that. 🤣

Glad you liked it 😊

You can buy an RTR version on Aliexpress, with the RhinoRC wheels/tires and electronics, I don't remember if it includes radio system and batteries though. I bought the kit which included the body, links, gearbox, drive shafts and axles. I put my own shocks, wheels, foams, tires and electronics. About the wheelbase, yes it's a bit longer than the Bully, in my setting for both of these models, I measured about half an inch difference.

@@driverc4357Thank you for your response. I have a bully 2 arriving and will build a Dlux Fab after.

Thanks! 😊

Cool! Let me know how the injora tires work for you 😊

I'm not sure about the link riser. Theoretically, it should help with torque twist on steep climbs (keep from rising one of the front wheels), but besides that, on flat ground at low speed, it doesn't matter much. Another advantage is that it should keep the car more planted, especially on sidehill. It is not an expensive part so I thought I would give it a try but I did not do any comparison with and without it. About the roof, I just photo-printed an image, cut it according to the shape of the roof, then glued it on top and also put a special colorful decal that shines and changes colors when light hits it 🙂

@@driverc4357 thanks for your help mate, I can’t wait for my chassis kit to arrive

@@driverc4357 what made you go for the 90mm desert lizards?? I know that the standard shocks are 95mm, so was wondering if it’ll be best to go bigger or 90mm same as you have??

That's a good question 😄 I actually wanted to buy Dravtech shocks for it, they are 92mm hole to hole. I put them on my Bully a long time ago and they really work amazing! But nowadays, unfortunately I don't find them anywhere. Desert Lizards are very good shocks with tons of configurations out of the box (different springs and lengths, etc.), and they are available at many places so I decided to go with them. I think that for the Rhino, anything between 90mm and 100mm will be good. The chassis has many mounting holes, a shorter shock will probably be better mounted on the holes closer to the edges while longer ones can be mounted on farther holes, the flex would be more or less the same in my opinion. Remember, it's a shafty, so you are a bit limited by the shaft itself (it can just pop out or you can reach a bad angle that can cause damage to the universal). I'm currently in process of testing different shock setups, I don't like the very limited flex that I have right now, I will upload a video with my improved shock setup soon 😊

@@driverc4357 that will be a good video to see mate, thanks for your help and advice, it is appreciated

That's exactly what I thought too!! It would be an absolute beast of a crawler (not that it isn't right now but that would definitely upgarde it).

Awesome! You will definitely love it :)

What do you mean?

@@driverc4357 this shafty's link must in outside

ruclips.net/video/YuoPzczqzLM/видео.htmlsi=aEp-A06_nd0QwU-f

你的落差並不順暢 , 避震行程也沒有完全釋放沒發現嗎???

I have to disagree with you about the links, I think that they must be as close as possible to each other at the body while as far apart as possible at the axle (I mean the lower links). About the shocks, I did notice a few problems, the main of which is very low overall flex which is bad in some situations. I will change positions and springs setup, will test it soon 👍

What is a Bully in shafty form? Bully body and links but different axles and a custom gearbox? :) I can just say from my experience, both are very capable. But if you want specifically a shafty, then the Rhino is a great choice. It's practically a kit, so you don't have to find and match parts. It has a low CG in the body which is great, it has portals which gives more clearance and gear reduction, It's a bit wider and longer so maybe a little plus there too. However, due to universals in the knuckles, the steering is a bit less than the Bully axle with the XVDs, but universals are tougher to break (although I never broke XVDs). Some challenges are easier with the Bully, but that is due to its MOA properties (I believe), some others are easier with the Rhino.

@@driverc4357 ty for your help, I just discovered a friend bought a rhino yue one v2 , I'll have to drive it

Have fun! 😊

The Bully has only ~1.2cm shorter base than the Rhino in my current setting, some will say it's a world of difference, but I'm not entirely convinced. No doubt, making it longer will benefit it 😊, but not sure at all if that provides superiority to the Bully 😉. About weights, I think the Bully is overall better balanced, you may see on some descends that the Rhino barely makes it without flipping (and once it even flipped), that is because it has much more of its weight on the front than the Bully, so here for example the Bully excels. On the other hand, the Rhino doesn't drag a heavy motor on the rear, and my links and shocks setup make it more planted. So it does better on some steep climbs and side crawling. In any case, I agree that the Bully can potentially win due to its versatility, but it does have its shortcomings too 😋

Actually I noticed that I did trim a bit the turn angle of the servo, so the axle can physically give a bit more turning angle. In any case I will be changing the drag link and will make sure the steering angle is set to maximum next time. It's an overall great axle, so you shouldn't be disappointed :)

Thank you! :) 25% underdrive in rear axle

Thanks :)

Thank you! :) This setup has only 1 ESC, it's located on top of the dig unit. You can check the description for the detailed spec.

Agree, although the Dig feature basically replaces it ;)

@@driverc4357 Does it though? Why can't you have both? 😏

Rear steering helps reduce turning radius, and in some situations can be useful, so yea why not :)

@@driverc4357 You should buy a Danchee ridgerock and try to make it beat this Bully V2 spending less then $200 in upgrades. The Danchee is sort of a trend right now. Would love to see what you can do to it!

Yep :)

@driveRC How-do-you-do it and what ESC did you use

Hobbywing 1080 ESC, the Dig unit is from RC4WD, it connects with the ESC and both motors

Probably just needs to be vented?

Tires are vented, they were pressed hard against a rock, the foam is very soft so it takes time to return to normal, after a bit of driving it returned to normal :)

Crawler Innovations Double Deuce

In this video what you see are stock foams, tires are vented and some pins are trimmed for better grip. In later videos you can see same tires with CI Double Deuce Comp Cut foams, soft on front, medium on rear. They are much better. But currently I switched tires to ProLine Ibex and CI triple stage foams, they have even better performance IMHO, will share a video when I have some free time.