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The 2x2 and 2x1 is all 0.12 (1/8th in) thickness. Let me know how it goes!!!

That would be a box blade attachment, this one was a light duty 5’ one. We have now upgraded to a heavy duty 6’ John Deere one, the extra width and weight are helpful. We also welded on some studs and add extra weight to it as well. Here is a video of the new one: ruclips.net/video/yEZyG2SpkDI/видео.htmlsi=Lgbj4Z09citKquk8

For my setup we turned down a 3/4in rod on a lathe, so the base is wide but the shaft thinner for the smaller diameter. Assuming you don't have one of those laying around, you could do a few other tricks. First just weld a skinny metal rod to a thick one that fits in the base. Or you could find some 3/4" OD tube and make a sleeve that goes around the rod.

Here is a response from another comment but should help with finding any parts: I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers If all those fail I would call them and ask.

@@3333st thanks its definitely coming along nicely. Are you local?

Unfortunately I doubt it. I’m up in northern Michigan.

@@3333st Yeah we are down in TN

@@BrollBrothersProductions Well sir. Thank you for asking and thanks for what I think was gonna be an invitation to come ride. Lol

Thanks for watching along, now that we got a dozer the track will be getting tuned up. We also have plans for a few more jumps and a few modifications, so more track building should be coming soon.

@FarmingwithBrad at the time no, but I’ve since popped it and added a tube. You just fill the tube w/ fluid the same as a tire

@BrollBrothersProductions thanks 👍👍

@@tywesbrook4090 take offs usually fall between 3-4:1 so a 6’ takeoff would be 18-24’ long. Really depends greatly though on the height and the speed, you will get a feel for it pretty quick. Landings typically 4-6:1 so 6’ tall and 24-36’ long. The cool thing about it being your house is if it sucks you rebuild it. For a great beginners guide checkout www.destructionramps.com/how-to-build-dirt-jumps

If you are referring to the throttle cable cover then yes that is likely an issue. It sounds like you did not get an actual OEM carb, is there a place to connect the throttle cable?

@@BeOutsideL1ving thank you

For sure, we use it in every single build. 1: The more weight the better. We rebuilt an old heavy duty JD box blade and then welded posts on it to hold even more weight. We tend to leave around 200 additional pounds on it making the whole unit weigh well over 600lbs 2: Box blade ARE NOT good at cutting or moving dirt quickly. They can do it in small passes but if your's has scarifers use those to break up the soil before trying to move it 3: Make sure you have a good cutting edge, if its worn out flip it (we have a vid on that) 4: Use the tilt / roll to fine tune your angles / grading. Make sure the box is flat with the ground and blade is positioned right (top-link / lower arms) 5: Have a full box when trying to finish smooth 6: Make some vids! In all seriousness if you post some content happy to give advice. The first features we ever built we just used a box blade on a tiny B7100. We plowed the ground with a 1 bottom and then used the box blade to push some small jumps and a tiny berm.

No not yet ours are going strong so far

Replying again we do have a video on installing new brake master cylinders, its in the Backhoe playlist

@jcbenson01 overall positive for sure, our soil is mostly clay filled loam and rocks so it packs very tight and gets dusty. So the chipped corners are looser and rut up better now. However when it’s really dry they will make it even looser as you will have soft material on top of the hard pack and it will want to slide out. When it’s prepped though they are the best corners on the track. We will post an update video at some point we are about due to add some more chips (they have been piled up breaking down since this video). But always too much work to do around the farm and never enough time.

@@BrollBrothersProductionssounds like my synopsis also. Just be careful adding too much. I agree when the track is wet and soft it’s great. But the sweeper gets packed down somewhat and the hard packed spots with the mulch are like riding on coasters sliding on a coffee table.

@ spot on with ours as well. The best two corners we have are under giant trees so there was decently thick black topsoil there when we started. They got some chips and the leaves tilled in every year.

That I do not know and I cannot seem to find that cable anywhere on the micro fiche. I would follow it to its source and then search that from the microfiche. If you trace it back and let me know where its connected i'll look

@@reecebauer5261 glad we could help, maybe this winter we will finish our endurcross section, we got distracted with other projects and it’s been taken over by the woods lol

@@greglewis8752 yeah so if it doesn’t blow out, the correct move would be to remove the tank and give it a proper cleaning. This was a quick fix to get back to work, and honestly our issue is mostly not having a fuel filter on our diesel pump. We get some algae and gunk in the fuel sometimes.

@@oliverGTn it’s at the top of a big hill so usually just cruise third, it could easily be hit in second as well but usually come in hot and let off on the face to reduce speed.

@@nate2629 the ramp plans came from destructionramps.com super easy to follow and they’re like $30 (the original ramp was the 4’ 3” one). That has all the specs and I’m pretty sure included specs for a landing. At that time we literally just had a dirt pile maybe 4’ tall and 10-15’ long.

@@OCCRanch they are pretty easy if you can break the gland nut, I’m pretty sure we have a video on doing one of those.

@BrollBrothersProductions yea that's how I found yall. Looking for videos on it

I think the video is pretty clear and viewable, but you can make a video and show me how it could be better.

@@Bedroom-m4d oh yeah she’s rock solid still, haters gonna hate haha. I’ll be sure to update if it ever falls off, but I’m guessing I’ll be cutting it off in about 10 years. Stills looks new just with all the paint scraped off.

@@derekchaplin2867 at the time Publix was having a sale I think like 2.29/gal, we just had a puncture the other day and had to buy some more and they were like 3.50 each.

@@johncalhoun8054 I’m not sure where any of them are from but maybe try a semi tire shop

@@kennypridemore5466 no clue on that front, try posting on heavy equipment forum lots of knowledgeable folks over there

@@OutDoorFun3 It was bruised up for a week, never had any problems with it. Just got a good squish lol

@@BrollBrothersProductions You were extremely lucky you didn't break your hand! You did your tiller seal replacement in 3 hours, tomorrow will be day 3 for me, hopefully I finish.

@@OutDoorFun3 good luck

The ramp plans are from destructionramps.com, highly recommend them if you're going to build one. The beginning of this video ruclips.net/video/h593C3MTZR8/видео.html has an overview of the different sized landings we have built on the way to the current 13' tall version. For a 6' ramp i would go for at least the 8' down ramp if you can, the bigger the landing the less sketchy it is. Here is a full video on building the 8' landing it paired well with our 6' ramp ruclips.net/video/JL2ob05XR3I/видео.html.

It will typically auto prime - fill the fuel filter with diesel when you slap it back on. Turn the key to the "on" position and it should run the fuel pump (30s-1min). If you are having priming issues you can typically crack the bleeder on the top of the water separator and then on mine I have a primer bulb in my fuel line. No idea if that is a stock feature, but I can pump it up to the water separator. Once that part has fuel it will typically fire up. When it's not starting you can use a screwdriver to jump the hots on the solenoid and bypass it, if that works it's typically the solenoid. If you smack the starter with a hammer and then it works again its typically the starter. On ours it was the solenoid that was bad but the replacement didn't fit correctly so I ended buying a full starter.

@@WYO_Cowboy_Joe bro it’s changing coolant it’s not that serious 😂

Where your video Cowboy?

@@BrollBrothersProductions just do it incorrectly and you'll find out what serious is.

@@treyward4480 all my videos are on broadcast TV where the professionals are.

@@fjbowen3155 we do not, haven’t had this issue

@@matthewchamberlain1205 they can be tight sometimes, double check your deck is in the off position. Also if you haven’t already you can try and feed it on the front by pulling it across and spinning. There is a pic from the manual of this in the video