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That is weird. Normally when you remove the clip it stays on. What year bike? Aftermarket exhaust? Fyi this is my video just on personal account.

@ thank you for your quick response I appreciate you, it’s a 2008 Suzuki m109r, I just got this bike this morning, Has a road burner exhaust and Holley air filter (one on in each side of the bike, also has a cobra commander, previous owner brought it like this he said whoever sold it to him told him was the exhaust servo, however he was guessing the code and he believed was a c12 code back then but I believe a c12 isn’t servo code, so I was trying to diagnose it myself but that’s what happened! While the clip is on the connection all goes normal just low fuel flashing I think is almost out of fuel.

If it was the final drive oil, you would have issues in all gears, not just 4th to 5th. I was lazy and just changed my wife's 109 gear oil after 20k miles and it still wasn't horrible. I don't think that is your problem. Shifting in all gears is fine, except 4th and 5th?

You're welcome. Thanks for watching and glad it helped.

web cams make some. Also, feel free to message Matt Guthrie on Facebook. He has his own grinds that are great.

lol, makes you wanna know how almost a full roll got in there.

LOL, glad it helped with the clutch and hopefully you can find some useful information. Thanks for watching. Wait for the shop bike build.

This one had 73k and my wife's (Bumbleebee Rebuild) had 80k. Both motors were in amazing shape with the bearings looking new. The is one was a tranny problem. The wife' s had bad valve guides but we did a backcut transmission and refreshed the motor. I know a couple that have hit 100k miles. Just do the oil every 3500-4k and don't let it run low on oil.

lol, you will get bored doing them. When there is no challenge it isn't fun :-)

@@DS2951 that is awesome. We are glad that the video helped you out. Thanks for watching.

You're welcome and thanks so much for the compliment on the video. We have been doing these clutches for a long time, and normally we do them for the cost of the clutch (no mark up) and $350 in labor, unless we need to get into the oil pan. So, we were getting people out the door for $800 or less and had customers calling and telling us the dealer was quoting them $1500 or more to do a clutch. Decided we would make this video so people can do it themselves and save as much money as possible. We even now sell the full clutch kit cheaper than anywhere else so people are really saving now 🙂

Yep. All motors that come out go in with new, unless they just did them. We do use the harder ones up front.

@@richardbrassard5673 we will soon. Didn’t video much when putting engine together. We are ready to fire it up but had other issues to fix in the bike first. I should be dropping a new video in a few days. Thanks for watching!

@@davissleja2495 I guess it depends on the application. High temp wheel bearing grease is designed to last a long time and is designed for wear resistance. That is all that is needed here. We have done this service many times on bikes and when they have come back in years later with a lot of miles, there is still grease in there. The trick here is to make sure that it always has something on that shaft.

@@lhcycles1301 Thank you for your response!

@@davissleja2495 You're welcome.

Customer has had them on a long time. My guess is mean cycles is the best place to check.

Send it over. lol

Thanks! Thanks for watching.

Well one thing I can promise you is this bike is gonna move and move fast. You are gonna be able to put it in neutral with no issues and bang second gear as much as you want and as hard as you want.

Glad to. Thanks.

Appreciate it. For a full rebuild, labor is $2700. Since we are in there, might as well do a built transmission, which is about $1k. Then it is just any additional parts. I would say somewhere around $4500, give or take. His bike will be good to go for another 20 years.

@@lhcycles1301 I'm going to have to start saving money man, lol

@@TheJayden158 lol definitely not cheap. But at least in many cases, the bike is decked out so it is cheaper than buying a new bike.

@@lhcycles1301 May not be cheap man but for a 109 it can be worth it. I simply have never ridden anything i like as much! Besides, everything on this bike is a pain the the ass to work on.

that is exactly right. Everything, outside of the engine, is a wear item and can easily be maintained. If you do a full rebuild for $5k, it really is like getting a new bike, and that is a lot cheaper than buying something new.

When the screw bottoms out, you back on 3/4 to 1 turn and you will be fine. When you do that the nut isn’t able to be in the threads? If so then something is wrong with the clutch or install. What year bike and what clutch did you put in?

@@lhcycles1301 2008. EBC Clutch

I was trying to add a picture but can't for some reason

@@maxamus01 Ok, I have no luck with those and we won't install them. Most of our customers that come in with burnt up clutches tend to be EBC. There is a measurement called "stack height" and that is the measurement of the full clutch pack. if the stack height is off and is too high, your pin needs to go in further and that could be your issue.

@@maxamus01 message me the image on FB if you want. Harris Horwtiz.

my opinion, they are the only bike that people will flock to and take pictures of, even when stock.

lol always has a smell of burnt oil every time I open up the valve covers. 😂

Thanks and you are right. We used to use an engine hoist but it was a pain. I actually used it to lift my wife’s 109 off the stand. lol had tank off so strapped the frame and took it up.

Were you in the correct pins? I have never seen or heard of any of them ever doing that.

Appreciate it.

Glad to help. Hopefully it gives a little help when doing it yourself

You're welcome. It is a little challenging doing them without a camera person and trying to work but we will keep doing them.

Great bikes! Thanks for watching.

Thanks! When we did my wife's last year, it had 80k. Motor was mint, just had bad valve guides but rebuilt it all.

I could not agree more.

Lol our ocd kicked in when we saw them.

Where are you located? If near Maryland you can come check it out. If not, we will be filming a lot.

@@lhcycles1301 Depends what part. I will shoot you a message on the forums!

You want it more straight up or it will leak out of the filler hole before you get the right amount in. However, you can put a board or two under the kickstand to straighten it up if you don't have a jack.

Thank you! 🙌🏽

@@picklerick7106 glad to help.

Yes it is the 2011-present full kit that works in all years.

It is the newer 2011 to present that works in all years. Yours is a 5 disk and 4 steel setup. This is a 6 disk and 5 steel setup. Same stack height and a direct fit right into your basket on your 07. I had it on my 07 as well. FYI, I just got a new batch in, so I have 6 kits in stock. They were on back order for a month.

algo se perdió en la traducción. ¿Necesitas el motor completo?

1 full turn is what the manual calls for. I prefer 3/4 as it keeps the engagement closer to the grip. Either one works fine.

Sorry never saw this notification. It doesn't matter whether it is hot or cold.

More than likely it would miss. If you are on one cylinder I would test for spark and see if they are firing. Then if you hand spark I would look into fuel. Could be an injector.

@@bigpapam109 i had the injectors bench cleaned before i reinstalled them so i would assume fuel is good. i will check for spark and see what happens. thanks!

@@Kalanioccc ok great. I have cleaned many and even then some are bad. Make sure to power the injector and see if it is opening and closing properly if you have good spark. You can even swap the injectors and see if the other cylinder is dead and the one that wasn't working now works.

@@bigpapam109 ill do all that this weekend and see what happens. do you mind if i recorded a video of it idling and sent you a link?

ruclips.net/user/shortsvn029h1SR-Y

FI light for Fuel Injection I believe. Check is normal when it shuts off. But if it is saying C00 You are not having any issues. There is a fuel light that blinks but that is yellow.

Yeah, I think if you like shut the back off by not putting it in neutral and putting the kickstand down or something like that, it’ll give you that warning. You can look it up and like an owners manual and see for yourself.

@@Texas_Made6990in theory, if you have no issues the only time you see the light is when you first turn the key on to fire the bike up. If you leave it in gear and just put the kickstand down, or just hit the kill switch the only light that will come on is the oil/temp light. I wasn’t sure so just went and tested a couple customer bikes

@@lhcycles1301 yeah well my bank is definitely having issues and it’s not showing any codes. That’s why I say that it’s like it’s resetting it to where I can’t see him. I’ll run the back. Check the codes and get nothing yet. I have surging when trying to get on the throttle. It will cut out and I’ll lose acceleration and then all the sudden it’ll kick back in full power like nothings wrong. I’ve got some kind of intermittent part going out.

@@Texas_Made6990 so the bike only shows codes when the sensors detect an issue. Not everything is on a sensor on the bike. If you are having those kinds of issues, it could be something as simple as an intermittent fuel pump issue. The fuel regulator is on the pump. It could be a bad dirty fuel filter as well, but usually the bike will stall at idle. if that. Are you seeing codes come on when riding? If so, you need to hit the red kill switch and leave the key on to obtain the code as the ecu does not store those and when you turn the bike off, it just forgets them.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad we could bring the product to everyone with a much cheaper price.

Not sure I understand your comment.