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Thanks!

Yes, of course, and I've got a page of designs just for that. Email sheltech at yahoo dot com or join my Fb group if you want (link in next person's comment) . I make dies to order I do not carry any stock of finished dies.

No and no, but it's very, very simple. Just a 2.5" or maybe 3" U-bolt, nuts and washers. Couldn't be any more basic. Any hardware store sells all you need. What I do is make custom pancake dies and impression plates like the one I'm using in the video. Those I sell.🙂

@@dogboydar1202 Thank you. I rewatched and realized you shared what it was. I just ahve to make one and thank you for sharing.

@@debVdesigns You're welcome! I have a facebook group too. dar shelton's pancake die paradise , where I post all the cool stuff I make (^8

Thanks ! Technically, they're merely the best __RT/Pancake__ blanking dies (in the Galaxy); pancakes being a subset of blanking dies in general 😄😁

Necessity taught me most of what I know about all this 😁

Cavallin mill, yes, foot switch. 1/2 hp gear motor ....maybe about 250 in. lb. of torque ?, Franked together with #50 roller chain. Easier/better to use a direct coupler to join motor and mill but I used what I had (except for a big sprocket ).

@dogboydar1202 you are a load of inspiration. I have Cavalli also, but not all flat. Hmm.. gears are turning in my brain now, I might have to explore this. I have my press but I like how you use this for production run work.

Thanks ! Just doing my job !

Glad you like it!

THANKS, glad you enjoy!

Thanks, and if you do facebarf, I have a group there. The RT/pancake cutting dies are my specialty. facebook.com/groups/1396326043805182/

It depends a lot on the design. It's easier for me to press multiple times (taping the sheet in place for registration) than to anneal between pressings. Having the electric pump helps a lot. Extra -stubborn designs may need annealing but usually I can get problematic detail pressed by using smaller pieces of urethane on top of the main pad, over the trouble spot, in a second pressing. This clear urethane is great for that (so you see what you're doing).

thanks, count !

sheltech dot net for contact info, but mostly I do custom orders, with the exception of ones I make to sell on my Fb group , which is Dar Shelton's Pancake Die Paradise. Mine are different from commercial pancake dies . "Yours are like race cars compared to our normal cars" is what another maker said (^8

@@dogboydar1202 thank you. I currently don’t have a business, just hobbyist…haven’t purchased a press, I bought one pancake die from potters, it’s heavy gauge, I can’t open it enough to accept sheet metal. I thought I might be able to use it in a vise.

@@kathybradbury Yeah, those are hard to open, but mine are easy to load metal into once you pop them open. Mine are tight-fitting, so on some you need to smack them open, but once open , they are sprung partway open and the die steel is bendy enough so that loading is easy.

very cool :)

Hi, if you're on facebarf, you can join this group to see all kinds of stuff and communicate. facebook.com/groups/1396326043805182/ If you're not into F-book, email is sheltech at yahoo dot com ps- I helped Susan with the chapter on blanking dies, and it's a decent basic start but there is much more depth to making your own, if you want to dive.

Copper, .021" (1/2 mm). This die is made of steel capable of cutting around .025" maximum. The way I make them, they can work well down to about .005" . Other makers of this type of die sell them for a lot less, but they don't work well thinner than around .025", and are not hardened steel.

I make whatever people order, so, yeah. There are lots of designs, but I don't make stock. If you do Facebarf, the link to my group (in another comment here) is a good way to talk and see more stuff. Join if you want.

@@dogboydar1202 thanks I've already joined quite a while ago......but don't do much of the Stalkbook

THank you for the input. About the only way that would work is if I repeated the same track over and over. That's because when I record, it's and ever-changing mutation of sounds and effects. Any given track I post may be a splicing together of many good parts in a longer section that's mostly a mess. Sometimes I get lucky and get a good thing going for a while , and edit things to make several similar pieces. So, there is some material that's conducive to longer format if I edit it a certain way. I'll think about doing that, and also with future experiments.

@@dogboydar1202 I understand 100%. Im lovin the sound no matter 10 seconds or 10 hours. Lookin forward to listening for anything out in the future.

Hi, 2 part answer, because I use 2 kinds of steel. 0-1 tool steel (oil hardening ground flat stock tool steel) is what I used exclusively for over 30 years. Standard heat treating info on it is easy to find from manufacturers or suppliers. Quenching is from around 1450-1500 F. Tempering for pancake dies is best done at hotter temps than conventional dies. I use around 700-850 F. The other steel I use now is 4130 alloy steel, which is still quite hardenable, but it needs special quenching oil for best results. Heat treating info for it, in the context of pancake dies, is non-existent, except for what I've learned recently.

Yes, hairy One, I'll tune in for that ! I got some new toys (fx pedals) for my EBow madness and will post, here or in Billville, anything good that happens .

Thanks !

Thanks.

Hey, how have you been ? Check out some of my noise (^8

You're welcome, and feel free to ask me about it (all).

It works !! (^8

sorry for the late reply!! Scroll saws have such a short stroke that one short length of blade would get all the stress , and fail much quicker than what you see here. Also, the slight forward and backward "swing" in this system allows me to duplicate the natural pressure cycle of hand sawing : forward pressure on the cutting (down) stroke, and easing off on the upstroke. This also reduces stress on the blade, making it last longer.

You have good taste in noise (^8

Just doing my job, haha. Explaining how to use one is 1000x easier than explaining how to make one, so I haven't tackled that !

Hi ! If you ever start wearing your arm/shoulder/back out , you know where to find me , haha

@@dogboydar1202 Ha ha. I am still a young man.

thanks !

I use hardened steel plates inside the press, to contact /squeeze the dies. Any solid metal or even hard plastic (but not Acrylic/Plexiglas/Perspex, because it can shatter) will work. Hardened steel is best because the dies won't scar it up like softer material.

I usually use Amtek Tool in the U.S. 1-800-334-1660