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I’m glad it helped!

It’s best practice to put the surge protector as close to the main breaker as you can. For safety and liability reasons I can’t tell people it’s ok to install the surge protector in any two open slots in their panel.

Completely understand. Sadly, After looking over my breaker I think it might be too old for the HOM and QO models

@ironicstatement they do make whole house surge protectors that attach to a knockout on the side of your breaker panel, and get hardwired. Or, another option is to install a surge protector on your hvac equipment itself, here’s an example: www.supplyhouse.com/MARS-83905-HVAC-Surge-Protection-Device-120-240v

You’re welcome!

@@kjfacilities-maint - Kevin, we have such an ice dam in our unit that I cannot get the tray out. Do you know if turning off the ice maker turns off the cooling as well as production process? I'd like not to have to turn the whole fridge off. Again, thanks for this helpful video!

@MannikinFreezTag you can turn off the ice maker or unplug the wiring harness that goes to the ice maker.

Thank you!

I would recommend a soft starter if you want to run your AC on a generator, a hard start Kit does provide a larger starting torque however, a hard start Kit that is not properly sized for your compressor can actually overheat the compressor and shorten its lifespan whereas a soft starter will actually increase the lifespan of your compressor, and I able the compressor to start on generator power.

You’re welcome, I’m glad the video helped!

I don’t load too much paint on the brush, exterior house paint is pretty thick too. I try to have the wet side of the brush up so it’s less likely to drip.

Is your blower fan short cycling? Or is your outside compressor and/or condenser cooling fan short cycling?

I would pull the fridge out and gently clean off the condenser coils, check to make sure the vents inside the fridge/freezer aren’t blocked. Is the fan evaporator fan blowing air into the fridge? It could also be a bad thermistor.

You may be able to grab the filter with a large pair of channel locks and wiggle and pull on the old filter, until it comes out.

You're very nice, I'm glad the video helped you!

If the socket is wired in reverse the threaded socket becomes “hot” and that is dangerous because it can electrocute you if you touch the threads when changing the light bulb. Also, some LED bulbs are polarized sensitive so they won’t work if the socket is wired incorrectly.

A faulty board can cause odd issues to occur however, I would also check the motor and make sure the thermostat wiring is correct. Here is a great troubleshooting video for the X 13 motors: ruclips.net/video/SamEuSzvYbE/видео.htmlsi=tfyw6T_z_x6oQ2K-

@@kjfacilities-maint Thanks. I've talked to various HVAC people around town where I live and they tell me that those ECM's on top of the X13 motors seem to be problematic and the replacement Rheem brand name is way expensive and that there are other alternatives. This coming from actual local suppliers that I know. They say the ECM usually goes bad and the price to replace it is not far off from just replacing the whole motor. Sad that it's only 5 years old and was an expensive system, too.

You’re welcome!

Nice!

You're welcome!

Yes, everything is more expensive these days, unfortunately.

Whirlpool offers replacement parts online: www.amazon.com/W10862456-W10350062-W10778316-Whirlpool-Appliance/dp/B09M9T6QLS/ref=asc_df_B09M9T6QLS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693641448704&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2530211579397991027&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029022&hvtargid=pla-2205181136115&psc=1&mcid=6b1cd44d01023ebabd195dbc92741baf&gad_source=1

You’re welcome!

The new filter comes with an RFID tag under the label. Once the new filter is properly installed, the filter change reminder message should go away.

Have you tried cleaning the flame sensing rod with steel wool? You can also buy a new burner assy.

I did and it fired right up. Thank You

@rubinrichardson7193 excellent!

You're welcome.

I’m glad the video helped!

You're welcome! Happy to help:)

I would double check to make sure it pushed in all the way that the door closes completely or take the filter back out and look with the flashlight to see if there’s any debris clogging the filter head. Make sure the water to the fridge is turned on.

Check the Door Lock and Switch Assembly. Check the Temperature Control Thermostat. Check the Thermal Fuse. Check the Elements. Check the Oven Control Board.

Agreed!

Here is an example of one that is rated for a 3.5 ton unit: invertersrus.com/product/microair-368-softstarter/?attribute_select-a-model=ASY-368-X48-BLUE+(2+-+3.5+TONS)&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcxS4nA2Mrzc28FpAYRQVadcFU3OkFA3vP-P3hDiSwfy65s5NGOYXvxoCMUsQAvD_BwE

32 A model

You’re welcome, good luck with your project!

You are correct, it is best to install the surge protector near the main breaker. However, installing it inside the breaker panel in an available slot, will still provide protection because the ground wire will still enable the surge protector to direct power surges away from your appliances and circuits.

I,Great point! I did not have a strap wrench at the time. I used a rag to protect the finish on the bonnet nut.

You' re welcome.

You're welcome Mark!

Thanks!

I found Autodesk has a product called Fusion 360. That is what I use to design prototype equipment like you see in this video. I then use common, readily available parts to build a working prototype. McMaster-Carr is great for hardware.

A drum drip is installed on a dry fire sprinkler system, to capture moisture that may be in the pipes. They can fill up with dirty water if left unmaintained. Additionally, in cold climates, the water can freeze in the pipe.

you're welcome!

You’re welcome!

You're welcome! I'm glad the video helped :)

I would double check to make sure the new and old filter look exactly the same. Make sure the new filter is pointing in the right direction. Look inside the filer housing with a flash light, make sure nothing is obstructing the filter pathway.

I think you are referring to the piston control disc part #: 104437.

I too learned early AutoCAD in high-school. I agree with you, I enjoyed the manual drafting more too!

Did he check the pressure switch? Did he check the tube going from the pressure switch to the flue box? Is your furnace a high efficiency condensing furnace? Does it have PVC supply and exhaust pipes? If so, it could be a problem with the condensation, check to make sure the condensate trap is cleaned out, the condensate drain line is clear, check outside to make Sure there is no birds nest or insect nest blocking the air supply or return. If the furnace gets its air from inside your house, make sure it has an adequate air supply. Did the tech check gas pressure at the gas valve?

@kjfacilities-maint in not a high efficiency unit Pressure switch and hose good no clog have not checked the gas pressure Pretty much everything been replaced. All vents are clear. Just been crazy trying to figure it out. All connections seem tight but I can go thru again and make sure. I'm at a lost lol

@randybocelli6111 is the new filter MERV 8? Has anything changed recently? Before it shuts off, do you hear or see anything unusual? Flames should be steady blue, no flame rollout. Does the thermostat have new batteries in it? Is the flame sensing rod fully engulfed in flame?

@kjfacilities-maint not sure on the filter but I did take it out and tested still same issue. No roll out and the sensor is covered. It is a mystery that's for sure

I’d check ground wire connections, make sure they aren’t corroded, loose, or broken. I’d also check to see if the gas valve loses its mili-volt signal from the flame sensing rod. I have seen gas valves go bad, but it is not very common.

Awesome, glad you figured it out!