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Hahahaha as long as I help you win

That's a decision you should make from your experience using epoxy. There are times when you purchase a product it could have sat in the manufacturer warehouse for a long time therefore part a could be more dryer than usual and you will need to decide how to get that correct.

Thanks in advance

Hi If you have a shower screen you are ment to waterproof 150mm past it. You really only need to waterproof above the vanity 150.

No prob at all, if you need any more help let me know

Thank you 😊 usually after I wiped down all the walls I just start with the priming from where I began wiping the walls. it should be fine because the sponge is just damp only to collect the dust off the wall. But it doesn't hurt waiting 1 hour before you prime

​@@Jaxtiling1 thank you! A few more questions: do you do the silicone on the bond breaker before or after priming? How long do you wait for the bond breaker silicone to cure before the next step? How long do you wait for primer to cure?

I prime first that's usually dry within the hour, then input the silicon. Then i usualy waterproof about 1 hour later but you can wait a bit more for the silicon to dry

@@Jaxtiling1 Thank you! Super helpful

It's cement mixed with water and brushed over the floor wet, so that when you apply the sand and cement mix over it, it Bonds to the concrete

@@Jaxtiling1 ohh okay thank you for the reply bro cheers

With the tape and sleeves it's not required with the class 3 membrane I use. Usualy the cut outs around the taps are within 3mm so that I can just use neutral cure silicon then waterproof. but that wasn't the case at the job I wanted to video back then when I made that video . Also the manufacturer will not warranty the membrane if you use those tapes they just say to use neutral cure silicon then paint over it, I have asked them and they said not to use them. But I do not disagree with you that they are better. I do think it's better to use as well . But got to follow the manufacturer's directions.

Thank you very much 🙏🙏😊 Let's say the temp is 22 degrees average, If you're a Diy er give the cement bed 2 days to dry then waterproof the first coat then the next day the second coat, give that a day to dry before you glue down the tiles. That's the safe way.

@@Jaxtiling1 Thank you so much for your reply. Very helpful and useful. Really appreciate your videos and your generosity of time and knowledge in replying to comments and questions!

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Thank you 🙏😊 For class 3 membranes I would use neutral cure silicone and just waterproof around them. If there a a big gap between the tap and villa board you can use tap sleeves.

Your very welcome 🙏😊

It's exactly as I show in the video

Well said , there are more broader things with this that you can do like epoxy grout and other grouts that are simulate to epoxy which is hard to do with a grout bag, a grout gun is more accurate and cleaner to use. This is a good alternative than going out and spending over $150 for a proper grout gun that when the seals wear and parts wear out you have to buy them again. I have tried both methods, and the grout gun wins buy a mile for me weather the job is small or big.

Thank you 🙏😊. Yes if the floor is very porous I usually wet it first but if not I do it as i go. I usually like to do section by section as I move towards the door to avoid getting the cement under my feet and walking it on my dropsheets lol. I'm a bit of a clean freak.

Thank you very much 🙏😊

Your very welcome 🙏😊

Thank you very much 🙏😊

Thank you 😊🙏 , It's sand and cement to give you the guide for the perimeter with a straight edge

Your very welcome 🙏❤️

Thank you ❤️🙏

🙏❤️

Yes you have to put a puddle flange, and yes

Thank you🙏 I would put a chrome U chanel over it then the glass for frameless , if you're getting a framed shower screen that should just go over it but if you're going to cut it off to put a frameless shower screen hard to the floor, in Australia you have to now have a 25 mil step down or something like that it's a new code. But what people are still doing is they clut the angle flush with the tiles and you centre the glass over the angle so you don't see it

@@Jaxtiling1 Cheers mate!👍

Thank you 🙏 yes 4 to 1

Depends on the waterproofing you use, now days they don't recommend to use it incase it tears. There is other types of bandage that you can use for example gripset elastoproof or similar but see what the manufacturer of the brand you are using recommends. I use k10 plus by davco I just put neutral cure silicon to all internal corners then waterproof on-top of it and I have never had a failure. I have had a few clients who are worried bugs, thats when I add in the bandage with the rubber in the middle for there peice of mind.

@@Jaxtiling1 I'm also using k10 plus by Davco. 15-20 years ago we used dampfix (when there wasn't k10 plus) and it required fibreglass bandage. That's why I' have been using fibreglass in our corners. But I watched Davco and your videos doesn't use fibreglass bandage made me worry if I do more harm than good by adding fibreglass. I tried elastic bandage by Gribset but Im not familiar with it so I want back to fibreglass. I never have a problem with the fibreglass also hence I'm worrying not having it.

@@Jaxtiling1 from what I understand… By adding fibreglass and expansion rod it is classified as ‘class I or class ll’ waterproofing. And by using sealant without and bandages it considered as ‘class lll’ which is has more flexibility. But I been worried about not having fibreglass in the corners. But I will try the method in your video thanks to your expectations

Hahahaha that's what I used to use as well dampfix, the good old days. If you use fibreglass or that bandage one of the reps told me they walont warranty the products if something happened. If you do get movement because fibreglass isn't flexible it can just tear that's why they don't recommend it anymore. I still use it to cover big holes.

Don't be worried I have been doing it for 15 to 20 years and it's never failed just apply the 2 coats over it fairly thick

No primer just a slurry

Your very welcome 🙏

Thank you very much. You can do either way shouldn't really matter. But if you prime first the silicone should bond better, primer bites into the wall and and helps bind any dust giving the silicone a better adhesion

Thank you 🙏 you need to clean it out after every use so it works properly and not leak from were the back cap is, eventually it wears out and you just use another one

Thank you very much 🙏

I have a video on that on my channel, how to waterproof a bathroom

Thank you very much 🙏

Thank you very much 😊🙏

If that works for you that's excellent

He didn’t mention anything about space between pieces? Eg a wood parquet doesn’t have spaces. If you add spaces then it’s obvs you’d need to accommodate that too

Your very welcome

Your very welcome and I hope it all goes well for you Jack

I found the davco very hard to use nearly got blisters from it. If your ever going to epoxy onday try keropoxy I found it the easiest to use.

Last time I used epoxy was on a shower repair and used the ardex epoxy. I just genuinely dislike epoxy grout, but it’s essential on spas and mosaics in wet areas in my opinion

Your very welcome

Thank you very much. I would put hardies tile underlay on it before doing anything. Then reinforcement wire in the screed then waterproof on-top to falls and glue the tiles down

Leave it to the professional

@@benjamindelfs2718 nah I want to give it a go

@@the_rocksf1148 you can do it just take your time. If you stuff up just remove it sand and cement is cheap

Your very welcome

Yes puddle plange rebated into the substrate