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@no1but24 without actually following the wiring, I can't be sure. There are two possibilities: 1) Meters in series: - Then yes it would supply your AC unit. - When running off your utility, you might think then that the utility is charging you twice for the same current. Because M2 runs through M1 first. But if they are in series, then for invoicing, the utility would subtract the M2 current from the M1 current and invoice you at their respective rates. - When running off of your generator on M1, the GenerLink will only disconnect the meter on M1, and M2 will still be measuring current that you generate. However again, on your invoice, they would subtract M2 from M1, which is strange because while your generator is running, M1 is not measuring anything. So at the end of your billing period, you would inadvertently get a credit for the power that you generated. (I doubt that they are in series.) 2) Meters in parallel: It won't run your AC unit.

Correct

Thanks!

Douglas, thanks for pointing out tank distance. I relied on both my gas installer and my propane provider to make sure that the rules were followed. Actually, they made sure that the rules were followed. lol

You dont notice it.

It's about the same. I oriented the generator so that the exhaust points away from the house and away from my neighbour. lol, of course my neighbour has one too, so when ours is running, so is hers.

@@GreenStarPower does your neighbor have the same model?

She has a 7.5kw Generac. It's on the other side of her house from us. Our houses are 150ft apart. When it exercises, which is at a different time than ours, I can hear it just enough to know that it is running.

That's unfortunate. A manual transfer switch is also very effective, and safer than running extension cords. If you don't already have one, your electrician can give you a quote.

That sounds wrong. Get a soft start for your heat pump and the generator won’t even notice. I use a portable 12kw / 15kw generator and it runs both my heat pumps just fine. 5 ton & a 2 ton

Diane…don’t get a Generac is my general advice. To address your question about the heat pump…I’m in the South and generally speaking heat is not the major consideration folks have when getting a generator. However, the devil is in the details for HVAC and how generators can/cannot power them. Each piece of equipment has running and surge amps as designed by the manufacturer. These can be altered by after market modifications to lower the surge, in particular. But EVERYTHING with power is mathematical. There are resources you can look into that can help. If there is a question of what a generator can or cannot power, I would also suggest getting with your HVAC professional to see what amperage and voltage is needed to run your system. 15-20 years ago generator sizing was based upon service amperage in the United States to prevent any confusion. This is not the case anymore and that’s overall a good thing. But it makes it hard for the average homeowner to calculate the proper sizing. One last suggestion…look at your panel and see what size breaker your heat is on. If it’s 60 amps, just know that at best your heat may suck up most of the power a 24 kw will produce

@@BrianD-ds4dx if not a generac then what do you recommend, and why not a generac?

@@carapungoDepends on where you are and what product support you have in your area. In the southern states (hot places), I’m very partial to the Cummins air or liquid cooled. Run time is considerably longer primarily due to oil capacity and life. Adding and checking oil on the Cummins is also significantly easier. Even in cold weather climates the basic Cummins unit ships with starting temp range down to 0F and will start up to 122F. Cummins air cooled also have motor starting kVa of double their rated (40 for 20, 34 for 17). If you don’t have a Cummins dealer with certified techs close..,I’d say Kohler probably …Briggs and Stratton is a good option as well. Generac is a marketing company at this point. Not an engineering company. Think of it this way. How much you think all the constant commercials cost? Also google search Generac fuel plenum. If you want pictures of what happens because of a problem they haven’t fixed for 7 years let me know…or get stats from Houston Fire Department for how many generator fires they put out in the last week and go through the data on how many were Generac and how many were Cummins Kohler and Briggs combined (Hint…one of the numbers is zero. The other is waaay above zero)

Hi Diane, thanks for liking the video. Trust your contractor. On social media, advice is cheap, but afterwards when you need help, you'll be going back to your contractor. I'd rather that you're able to tell them "you told me", vs them telling you "I told you so". Bigger is usually better but your contractor needs to look at your current and future needs. If they're not able to do that, find another contractor. Don't hesitate to get a second opinion.

If you REALLY care, get a serious UPS… one with dual-conversion topology. It gives you the cleanest power and the fastest switching. I’ve had unreliable computers magically stabilize when connected to a double conversion UPS.

Sounds familiar, lol. Our power goes out every 2-3 weeks. Usually for under 5 sec. Not a big deal. But I hear at least twice a year of it going out for 24+ hrs within a 1hr drive of me, and I know that we were close. It's just a matter of time... again.

@no1but24 The generator in this video does not have an inverter.

@@GreenStarPowermost new generators have an AVR . The power company is not always clean power.

We do not sell to the US. A local electrician would better know the electrical and construction codes for your area.

Sorry, this is a question without a specific answer. I can compare the problem to a vehicle manufacturer claiming that their vehicle consumes 6 liters per 100 km. But then if you are pulling a trailer all the time, consumption increases to 10 liters per 100km. Likewise, different sized generators consume different amounts of propane, depending on the load. I googled "generac propane consumption" and received a range of 2-3 gallons per hour.

@@GreenStarPower it’s pretty expensive to operate on top of an already large capital expenditure. I hate when the power goes out but I can’t justify spending the amounts of money for a whole home generator. If I were a millionaire I’d probably have one.

Because genelink gives first priority to the generator over the utility company...meaning if generator is running and the utility company power is on too the generlink will draw power from the generator instead of the utility company...utility company looses money

Here is a link to a pdf explaining why BC Hydro will not allow Generlinks. app.bchydro.com/content/dam/BCHydro/customer-portal/documents/distribution/standards/ds-ES54-EA2017-009-Banned-collar-type-transfer-switch-reaffirmed.pdf

I’m a very handy guy and have a very good multimeter. What would you say is the best way to measure the THD for my generator it’s a 7000 W typical generator. Would a good way be to measure the max and min and average Hertz running it for a few hours with typical loads, coming on and off? At the same time, measuring the average, min and max of the voltage? Having min and Max be within 5% or whatever percentages it turns out to be would give me a THD? I don’t think my generator specifications say anything about the distortion. Thanks for your insight

@@condor5635 ruclips.net/user/shortsz88TG71drX8?si=7mgpDceONgusjiC1

@@condor5635 ruclips.net/user/shortsz88TG71drX8?si=7mgpDceONgusjiC1

Hi Condor, THD is as much a function of frequency as it is of voltage. I didn't want to get into it much because there are a lot of sites that explain it well. Here is one that I like: www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/the-importance-of-total-harmonic-distortion/

Our clients are welcome to do their own homework and purchase the generator that they want. We encourage our clients to consider the purity of the electrical power that a generator produces.

I'm sorry that you are having a bad experience with your Generlink. We have never had a customer complaint from any that we have installed. Since yours was purchased from, and installed by, your electrical contractor, you should lean on them as they are responsible for selling you a faulty product. Have them remove it and return it. This shouldn't be on you.

Hi Roger, from what I can tell, the answer is no. The document in the link below is from 2016ish. But... I suggest that you call your utility to confirm. app.bchydro.com/content/dam/BCHydro/customer-portal/documents/distribution/standards/ds-ES54-EA2017-009-Banned-collar-type-transfer-switch-reaffirmed.pdf

Thanks for reaching out. The Generlink comes with a cord. The standard length is 20 feet, with optional lengths increasing in 20 foot increments up to 100 feet. However, lengths beyond 60 feet are hard to get a hold of. One end has a proprietary plug that matches the Generlink. The other end has to match your generator. Since your generator can supply 10kw continuous, I expect it has a 14-50 receptacle on it. In which case, you would need to order your Generlink with a cord that has a 14-50P on the other end.

You would have to get the 40 amp Genelink which will come with a 20 feet cord with the 50 amp plug only thing is if you need a longer cord you can order a longer cord or you can use a regular 50 amp cord with your desired length and plug the female side of your regular 50 amp cord into your Genelink male side ....that's how I did mine for my extra lenth

Compatibility charts may NOT be up to date based on Year, Model, >>> SERIAL NUMBER <<< of the Generator, get the EXACT info off the Gen you want to use & contact Generlink DIRECYLY