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My 4TB fake SSD say It is legit on f3probe -_-

Nice,thanks:)

Great video and amazing work! Would you be releasing the design of the dyno open source by any chance?

But... why 12v? Almost all 3d printers works on 24v.

But... why 12v? Almost all 3d printers works on 24v.

1:32 I've tried to search about your DIY C4260 servo design project and PnP project which uses the C4260 BLDC in your channel but I've not found them. Do you have the videos for those?

I'm very confused because speed-torque curves aren't supposed to look like this, there should be a flat torque output then a drop when the back EMF restrains the current that can be pushed though the windings

Жаль, что в сравнении не участвовали моторы Leadshine. 😔

Can you compare tmc2209 vs running with FOC (like simpleFOC)?

Why not testing them against 50kg load cell ? What cell is used?

this is cool where can i get your servo design BOM? is the nua size the same as nema17 only longer?

The open-loop stepper isn't a low-cost solution when you end-up making scrap parts. I am closed-loop servo, all the way. Great vid, very clear 👍

The problem with the MKS Servo42D is quiet simple. If you bought the RS485 Version you can use the Makerbase USB to RS485 adapter with their software, to set the start and stop acceleration.😉

I just got a "1TB Lenovo" drive knowing full well it'll be a fake :d Just to test things out.

Id like to see the difference between TMC2209 and TMC5160 at the same settings and currents

I have no idea how you installed f3. You just went to some screen that I do not know how to get to and started typing.

my suspicions were correct, i just got a 256gb flashdrive, the brand and packaging looked like a legit kingston flashdrive, it even says usb 3.0 on the packaging… but when i checked on USBDeview it shows usb version 2.0. then i tried putting a 48gb folder into it and guess what it slows down to 0 byte/s right when it occupies around 29gb of storage, using f3 i confirmed that it is indeed just a 32gb drive pretending to be 256gb, lmao i can’t even return this because i bought it online, all i can do is leave a very angry review on the shop’s page

I think if you don't need constant current feature, buying reputable 5V power supply and using the adjust potentiometer to make it 4.2V will just do the work.

Will you be releasing the kicad and firmware files? One of my TI drivers had current sense resistors just for monitoring led current as feedback. I wonder if accuracy of sensing could also improve efficiency in closed systems. 2:35 marco reps flashbacks

What program are you using for your plots, and the 3D scatter plot?

Quality content! Well done and keep it up! Love your work

"why spend 1 hour doing it manually when you can spend 1 month almost automating it?"😂😂

How are your producing those beautiful charts at 6:32?

Nice explanation. Which software do you use to visualize the data in 3D ?🤔

nice video and very well explained. The idea behind the "Frequency compensation" is to creat a PI, or PID controller so that the system can be modified to be fast and stable. We use the capacitors as integrator and the resistor as the proportional part.

An affordable bench power supply I use is the CSI3020X. It is really not that expensive.

Adc noise of the rp2040 is huge. If you have the time switch it to the RP2350. They fixed it on that one. Take a look at the Bus pirate they had a hole thing about it.

Excellent work and explanations! Thank you for sharing your project!

for v sensing you should reflect on 4 wires kelvin to load and supply, if feasible. I would not trust the resistance measurement of the apparatus with banana connectors. Very thorough testing and good looking data traces congrats!!

Run calibration data points in pseudorandom order so that error from the last points checked cancels out during regression 😁

Congrats to 4K subscribers. Just saw that it flipped. Didn’t even knew RUclips refreshes that. 😂

hii bro , I came across your video I have some doubts regarding this .when motor act as a generator it produces BACK EMF this back EMF go to the power supply how would you switch this from not going to the power supply but to the transistor and what is the need for inrush current control . Basically can you explain the schematic in detail. I want reproduce this circuit for my project

Hello, I'm building a delta and I'm not sure whether to use Nema 23 or a Brushells motor, which one do you recommend because I want greater speed on the printer?

In my experience, Oriental Motors PKP series are the highest quality stepper motors you can buy. Sanyo Denki steppers are also nice but not as nice.

Great analysis! Love your dynamometer!! YES please microstepping vs torque! And I would love to see TMC5160 compared to an established closed loop stepper with optical encoder, e.g. Stepperonline CL57T driver.

Cool tests. I"m looking for steppers for random projects other than 3D printing so this is helpful

I tested serve42c vs standard stepped with TMC. I think: serv42c is stronger, and quickly than standard stepper. I don't really understand why the video shows that servo42 is slower. (setup is siliminar: microstep 16)

This is a great video. I possess all of those motors and have played around with them not to the graphing extent that you have however. Speedy powers didn't last long for me because I'm dyslexic and I accidentally put the decimal point in the wrong area and fried both my speedy powers pretty much instantly. My superpowers however are very nice and they are connected to 5160 pro external Big tree Tech drivers . I was previously using the TV 6600 drivers and I experienced the same result

This is amazing, exactly what I needed! Bless you

honestly 32gbs for 5 bucks is pretty good

why r u testing 2209 at 12v? It can go up to 24v as well

It’s a good dyno but the use of a padded brake and brake disc is a factor that can lead to bad numbers in the long run due to nature of wear. Maybe using centrifugal force and fixed weight would have less outside influences.

Hello , thx for great video. I must say for the test purpose i bought 15TB flash drive for about 5 Euro. And as expected same as in your video shows 15,3T. Well your F3 software wasnt working as intended -shows me same error msg as was already mentioned in comments here (f3probe: read_all(): unexpected error code from read(2) = 121 : Remote I/O error) . But as i before tried full format and didnt finish (too slow to fully done) , just to get back to guick format - can be the reason for that error in my case. After that i did try this tool what i can recommend as its super fast and also in Windows can be used : ValiDrive. Where i got the right information : 2 dots from all in graphic view were green - valid. rest shows as red = no storage. in next result window i got information there are ~30GB storage. Next i get inside of the usb key - really simple done by get off aluminium cover and then i needed just push to lock (2 mm in size) and in same time pulling out usb3 part of the disk. Inside i found card in card reader. Card was made in korea, but nothing else was usefull from text there. I put it in card reader and format it (its shows 30GB already), so windows formating tool was enought for this task and becouse of real 30GB to format, now was time aprox. 1h to finish even slow full format. After that i moved card back to usb "key" (card reader) and buala - new 30GB card with good looking card reader in one for free to use ;p . I must say as it was bought from aliexpress and i did my tests fast enought, i reported fake usb and get my money back (seller didnt get money from aliexpress at all). Cheers

Good video, really hoped to see the nema17 motors i personally use in this test. I use the steppermotor 2,1 A, 0,65nm motor. Wouldve been the highest holding force in this test while being not the highest Amp. The serial number is 17HS24-2104S - i am super happy with these motors and i can just recommend them.

I'm confused why you didn't get any hybrid steppers on your lineup?! They put normal steppers to shame in pretty much every single category, except one - price. They're the ones in one piece aluminum round cases, instead of laminated steel sheet bodies. They are insanely powerful compared to a cheap laminated steel stepper

The dyno design is great, but running stepper drivers on a solderless breadboard is just asking for problems and likely the cause of your 24v failures. When you are switching relatively high currents at high speed you need low impedance supply rails with plenty of decoupling, something that a breadboard just cannot provide. Why not use an existing stepper driver board like the SKR?

Interesting results. Would be nice to run some resonance test for each of the motors. I have StepperOnline motors on several of my builds and they perform pretty well. In my Voron 0.2 build StepperOnline resonate less than LDO motors which results in better prints quality over all.

Very nice and detailed video but what makes me curious what about accuracy and repeatability of those motors or maybe it’s not determined by the motors it self I actually don’t know so please let me know/ us know . Keep it up 👍

Would like to see the popular Wantai motors used in high-speed printers.

Simple way to select a "fast" stepper is to look at the inductance (often listed) as it's the thing that will, during running, limit the current rampup and thus also torque.