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I no longer run a sniper but I will try to help. I had an older 6AL, I’m going off of memory since I don’t have the paperwork in front of me but I believe you Only use the purple to the tach output. Do not use yellow, instructions Diagram should be correct.

Chevrolet performance

Yes and no. I had not done anything further in terms of idle tuning other than preventing it from learning bad values. The cam was Radical and this was somewhat of a Band-Aid fix. If your intention is to be fuel injected I would look for something with less overlap. Or slightly wider LSA 110-112? It may not sound is good at idle but there are more fuel injection friendly grinds. I recently ended up going with different custom grind, on paper it looks similar and radical but is considerably more docile at idle while making very strong power.

At this point I also can not endorse Holley fuel injection with an ECU mounted in the throttle body. They are ridiculously problematic with RFI!

@@cheverra6886. Yes I was going with the terminator stealth. Easier to keep clean and protected.

@@cheverra6886. Yes want the cam sound, but also don’t want the headache. Thinking even a carb will want to die coming off power to a stop with a manual

I had a fairly well AFR tuned Holley, 800 that didn't run nearly as well as the sniper does once I worked out the bugs. I would probably opt for the stealth sniper (wasn't even available when I bought mine). Or research whichever model has the least amount of RFI issues. The atomic has ECU mounted outside of the throttle body (so less rfi). I think the atomic software is pretty primitive though. I'll could never get a carburetor to cruise lean enough to be economical and still have enough jet for wot, even with playing with enlarged idle bleeds and big power valve. Fuel injection mid-range is superior.

Yeah, a tight LSA and fuel injection don't typically play well together. I think it interprets the reversion as a rich condition and tries to pull out fuel.

for the love of god dont mine looked like a fuckin barbeque so much tinfoil with everything under the hood brand new. The sniper itself is great but the ignition system is complete junk I did cdi coil and hyperspark yanked it all back out and replaced with a msd hei distributor hasnt missed a beat since

Did you ever fix your Sniper issue? I'm having a RF issue with mine.

Yes, I relocated the coil all the way to the passenger side fender when troubleshooting the hyperspark. No change. The old setup has the coil and CDI box in fairly close proximity to the air cleaner and throttle body. It runs well as long as I don't lower the height of the throttle body i e lower carb spacer. In my case the RFI Source was the spark plug wires and the mail HEI terminals made it worse. My air cleaner also has a huge drop which probably acts as an antenna for RFI to the ECU. I got to the point where I wasn't going to modify everything just to have timing control.

What wires did you use?

@@paniro85 msd low resistance wires

Did you ever run the Terminator with another distributor other than the hyperspark? Check the settings for the reference angle verifying that on the handheld and Pc even if do you use the wizard ( I reference it in the video that it will set the wrong angle in some instances) You can check it on the software on laptop with the Terminator. Also I'm not sure how the plugs are set up on the Terminator but I would eliminate any wires not being used from the harness, they should unplug with a release pin similar to the sniper harness. Also have you verified your fuel pressure?

How did it turn out? I'm needing to upgrade my ignition and running a sniper.

Ted Reese I ran into rfi issues. With the breather filter on and hood shut it would cut off. Leave the breather filter off and it ran fine. I ended up rerouting the wires. Didn't help. I bought ferrite clamps and put on majority of the electrical wires from the sniper and also my coil. Have not had a problem since. Good luck! Be patient. Having the timing controlled by the sniper is nice!

@@richardlewellen2641 Where do you connect the ferrel clamps??? I am having intermittent rfi issues

@@jesstaylor3200 my tuners recommendation. "I normally have people use ferrite Caps / noise reducers on any of the high energy wires. Grounds. Powers. Distributor and coil."

@@richardlewellen2641 So every sparkplug wire has them? Both wires running from the Sniper to Battery? What other wires. I DONT fully understand

Did you install both at the same time, Ignition and fuel injection? What kind of car / engine?

@@cheverra6886 no I installed the sniper 3 months ago and it was ok every now and then it would act up and the idle would go a little wierd my tps would go to one percent and would have to restart my engine to get it to go back to zero. I also dont like the wisel when excelorating sounds kind of like a turbo so I got a spacer for the manifold and that helped a little. Apparently this system doesn't like the deul manifold so I put a 1 inch square spacer. After i finally thought i had it where it was pretty reliable i dicided to put the hyperspark thinking sense the system is made to work with each other it would be a easy install and it was it Fired right up ran like a champ for the first 20 min. Timing and everything was perfect and then it just got worse everytime I would run it

My TPS did that and I have an open plenum manifold, I think it ended up being butterfly adjustment. It's been awhile. If you have room try a taller spacer, a quarter of an inch will make my car functional versus not. The further away the ECU is from the distributor and plug wires the better.

@@cheverra6886 Had same problem. Wrapped all holley wires and MSD pickup with aluminum then bare cooper wire going from the efi body around the aluminum and connected it to batt. ground. RIF problem gone. Did scratch finish of body.

the sniper itself will work great Its just the stupid hyperspark piece of shit. put a hei distributor in and be done with it itll run great then

Get the fuel side running first, use an old distributor even if it's points style. I presume you had a fairly good distributor before you bought the fuel injection.

@@cheverra6886 I"m trying .it is frustrating . Holley and Summit needs to step up and fix the sniper problems

It seems like customer service is not great there at Holley, they seem more like to a get customers money than making sure thing are right with customers products. I have fair knowledge with getting things right first before selling things to consumers, not the same Holley of past, no passion, just profits.i have found it hard to get my steath efi kit and my hyper system from Holley, and one has to wait almost 1 hour to get through to someone, 4 days and 6 hours later I might see my 04-24-20 purchase somewhere in June maybe is the answer I got today, great!

@@cheverra6886 yes, good tip. I am experiencing Problems because of the hyperspark distriblutor, the EFI itself, coil triggering and coil Driver are fine. In other words: Spark into Distributor YES Spark Out of Distributor NO or only sometimes. You really need to track down the issues at least seperate ignition from injection...

No, Holley didn't do much. Do you have a carb spacer? If not try one for the purpose of getting the ECU further away from the plug wires.

@@cheverra6886 No It is on a summit intake nothing rad. It will run and then jump around or just stall

@@cheverra6886 The shop has been scratching there heads trying to sort out the problem

You can also Shield your plug wires, look at some of the other replies there's a link for some material on Amazon. As I said in the video you'll have to ground each plug wire once shielded, preferably to the same location to avoid ground loops.

@@cheverra6886 Thanks that sounds like a hassle to ground all that and make it clean . Holley need to step up and fix there f----ups

Yes, everything is wired directly to the battery and grounded. Battery is grounded directly to engine block. Not the cause of my RFI. It was run both ways, made no difference. It is throttle body proximity to the distributor. If I lower carb spacer by 1/4 of an inch it freaks out. If I raise the spark plug wires by using mail HEI terminals, it freaks out. The sniper ECU is not properly shielded! It runs great currently, however I can't change my current combination even slightly. I might shield (see other comments) plug wires, but those were changed when I first tried to go to computer control timing, no difference! RF

@@cheverra6886 ya, i saw about the shielding plug wires.. i went ahead and added to wish list on amazon in case i need them too lol. that's nuts though. wonder if its a faulty unit or have you already tried another one?

@@callofgeorge it's out of warranty, Holley will look at it for like $275. They know there are issues with the shielding. They rushed it to Market to compete with fitech and the consumer gets to sort out the shortcomings.

Call Tom over at amp performance1-602-437-2727, he should be able to set you up with a custom kit for what you need.

Thanks for the reply, the sniper is a decent system. But if I wasn't running a 1.5 in carb spacer the car would not run. I didn't even realize the ECU proximity issue to the plug wires until I went to the hyperspark because I was always running the spacer. The minute I changed that distance, eg. The ECU getting closer to the plug wires. It goes all wackadoodle.

Start with the spark plug wires, they're the biggest source and there close to the ECU. Ultimately shielding them with some type of RFI suppressing sleeve. You'll have to do this to each wire and run a ground wire from each plug wire to the same ground location to avoid ground loops. You can probably fashion some made out of tinfoil first with ground wires all going to the same ground location. To see if that really solved the problem and then move on to buying sleeve etc... I've seen some sleeve for sale on Amazon.

@@cheverra6886 okay great I need to get it back over to the shop that was doing the work. One of the spark plug wires did get a burn into the side of it when the cone filter from the pro charger fell off onto them pushing it into the header. what about running crazy thick spark plug wires with sleeves. And are you talkin about aluminum sleeves or that fiberglass looking material?

Electriduct 3/8" Tinned Copper Metal Braid Sleeving Flexible EMI RFI Shielding Wire Mesh (0.24" Diameter) - 10 Feet www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEG9V2R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DbWZDb5T2GJYS, you'll have to run a ground wire from each shielded plug wire to a central ground location

@@cheverra6886 great thank you I'll start with that. Should I put on the extremely thick spark plug wires with dielectric grease on all of the boots. so is this a common issue with running the Holley sniper setup with everyone? It's like really bad today for some reason I can barely even get the car to drive, everything was just going completely haywire. just seems like something Holley should have built-in better guards to suppress RF interferences from anywhere that might be generated under the hood.

Do you have the hyper spark distributor is your name Jeff my neighbor

It will idle smoother with timing control, even with a nasty cam. You also theoretically can come up with the perfect timing curve for your engine via manipulating the table. There are definitely a lot of Pros. However, one Con in my case: I would hate to experience an ECU reset while it was in control of the timing and it throw 50 degrees at it mistakenly under load.

Rat Fink I think I’ll keep my stock ignition with the sniper. It is a stock engine should not have any problems

Throttle body (TB), mine will pick up RFI if I lower the TB (shorter carb spacer) or raise the plug wires ( male hei terminals). Hyperspark is not the problem, the ECU shielding or proximity to Rfi from plug wires and or terminals is.

The ECU was restarting /resetting repeatedly,; battery, TPS, and even the coolant sensor had noise. It's not the hyperspark per se that causes the issue, it's the proximity of the plug wires and or terminals. If I lower the throttle body or raise the plug wire terminals I have major problems.