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The best ballasting tip I've seen by a country mile. 👍

That's not tracks. Those are called ruts.

The best thing that I've found to replicate mud is.......mud, well actually dried and sieved soil from my garden, I've got tons of it and its absolutely free! The part that isn't free is the acrylic medium from art shops. Mix the soil with 50-50 acrylic medium and water, put it where you want it, do your texturing and when it dries you've got proper mud. To put vehicle or tank tracks into the mud before it dries put a piece of clingfilm over the mud and press your tank into the mud where you want the tracks, for wheeled vehicles drive your vehicle through the mud, this works best if the wheels rotate. When you are happy with your muddy tracks carefully peel away the clingfilm and let it dry overnight.

I rarely criticize railway videos, but please do not say terrible regarding scratch building, even if it is your own work. We need to encourage people into this hobby, not put them off,.by all means do a comparison so modellers can see and learn - nice layout and nice modelling

Your terraced houses look pretty good. Love the old scalextric cars, I have two motorcycles with the sidecar rider. The dock area is a great addition and I always wanted one if those Airfix cranes. Thanks for sharing

Good to hear your story, thanks for sharing :) I remember meeting you at the Waterloo model rail exhibition near Liverpool a few years ago. I also got into modelling, of the branch line of Looe and Moorswater in Cornwall where I grew up, during the pandemic. Definitely saved my head and just researching the history was fascinating. Then trying to model it after not thinking of model railways for 50 years was intense. Have made so many mistakes, and relied on ebay for everything but what fun. Good to hear your business is doing well. All the best. :)

That water was not the "EZ water" was it? We tried that on my daughter's railway, and it is awful.

Blimey! What a space! Shame it was in the attic but nice memories all the same... i assume you both had tea station up there though?? 😂 Good for you, a good little video that.

hope he is doing well hopefuly he gets better for next car race

Hi Adam Sounds like a great holiday cottage, trains just outside the front door...lol. Thanks

Looks like a fun day ! Enjoy

Don't waste your arches. a piece of stout card or 3mm MDF would be better and cheaper, especially if the arches are at an angle to the edge of the board. You will then have arches left over for Bridge spans, viaducts, tunnel mouths. Laser cut arches have so many other uses.

The layering went well it looks like. I'll have to find the next video to see how it came out.

Hi Adam, just subbed. I've started on the static grass train and following up on what videos I can find. Nice demo, it looked like it worked well. I have a question though, something I haven't completely understood. Some guys do clip to a nail or pin, and others don't. If the basing glue is supposed to be better at conducting electricity, why would they say the clip only needs to be held near it? I've been testing both ways and haven't seen a difference. Trying to figure out how static electricity works differently than regular electricity. Can you shed any light on it? Thanks.

Hi, practise makes perfect. You will probably need to dab of the paint onto a piece of scrap, then when there is hardly any paint left you are good to go. Personally I produce mine on the computer, trying to match the road colour, write appropriate words, print and stick on with glue stick. Then blend in with the 3 greys used to paint the road. Again hardly any paint. It's easy to creatd that worn look and its hardly noticable. For wlhite and yellow lines I use sticky vinyl, works every time, no blurring. Hoping thats helpful.

Hi Adam Ot doesn't look too bad to me, a road so close to a railway line would 'probably' be owned by the railway, so would likely have very limited access. But what you have done is good, so far. Thanks

Does work but too much paint on pad . Arthur

Interesting - I have attended a few shows in Dortmund, Frederikshaven and Houten (near Utrecht). I come from Oz, so it is a bit of a trip but I have a place in Germany! Oh yes, and I come from Oatcake country as well (bacon and cheese if you please!). It is always interesting to see how small traders or companies do their marketing. You seem to be on the right track (no pun intended) - just remember to keep your fixed cost low and make sure your variable costs are in line with your income.

Can’t really tell how big but from here looks like a 🏆

🚂 😊

Shoulda started with Dire Straits, Walk of Life. Yeah copyrights and stuff but epic

I watched Dan's video before starting my JS Models kits and adding in the mortar courses makes a huge difference! ruclips.net/video/IaLtaVnvWC4/видео.htmlsi=MuUhOynEAvAxX2BS

Hi Railstuff (sorry I forgot your name, apologies) It just shows what you guys and girls have to do just to make us 'vistiors' happy so we can buy a few odd bits and pieces at shows. You guys are truly very dedicated people to the hobby world. Thank you for attending and turning up at events and shows, even if there is very little return in it for you. Thanks

Hallelujah brother Hallelujah. I have just tried to make a hill about 1 meter x 400 mm. I made a polystyrene form and used air dry clay. At the moment it's almost dry but it's full of bloody cracks. It seems clay shrinks , plaster expands. I guess it's take 2 now.

Amazon has 4 rolls 6” wide 15 feet long (60 feet total or 18 meters) for $15 (12 British pounds)

An apples to oranges comparison. The Vollmer 47607 Single Track Engine Shed is an equaly detailed kit. Or alternatively the Wills engine shed would make for a better comparison.

I loved your video i learned how to do it

And I thought I was the only person to use a pipette like that, but I apply the layering spray via the pipette, and it works superbly for small areas, by opening the top of the layering spray and sucking it up, much better that the basing glue and more accurate than spraying.

Awesomeness!!! 💯

They guys at Burdock were so good to talk to and ran requests for locos and Ford Anglia…something to do with wizards 😉. The layout is superb.

that plastic kit reminds me of one I chopped up to create a low relief warehouse. Mine was either Dapol or Airfix though

Nice...Love these videos especially when I have the same component kit as you, but still waiting on some more pieces. I guess the bowing was caused by the moisture and also the weight which was my initial fear. I would suggest some foam inserts at the ends and in the middle to redistribute the weight and reshape it. I intend to put a train on top so will need to do this I think. Arches can be red brick, London yellow brick or grey brick...it really does depend on what you are modelling. Originally I was going to paint mine (when I have assembled it) red brick but seeing yours not sure now...maybe grey. It depends on what your layout palette is going to be and whether it will fit in or conform....Mine is a London scene with London red buses, so still not sure. Will have to go back and look at some photos....Cant wait for your next video and thanks for posting:)

This is a great idea....love the idea of a street scene with just a diorama of the arches and a train track above. How is the finish of the bricks? Deep enough to paint brick red and add a white wash for the mortar before wiping away?

Brilliant, exactly what I wanted to know, I can buy grey ballast and change the colour to yellowish for the upper level on my layout. Many thanks.

Nice meeting you in Glasgow! Looking forward to more podcasts 🤞

The Arches Omnibus... lol 😅 Good to meet you briefly at Doncaster

👍

What happened to the end

The Knightwing kit looks quite continental European to me, rather than British. The laser-cut kit looks more British to me, although it's obviously a stone building, not brick. I remember that back in the 1970s, Airfix used to do a nice plastic brick-built engine shed kit (the right size for one tank engine). I think it was also possible to use multiple kits to make a larger shed, if I remember correctly. The competition in those days was various types of card kits, and the plastic kit had more scope for weathering etc (card warped as soon as any wash was added).

It's a locomotive not a train

If you weathered the plastic kit would you like it better? If the plastic kit is as it was out of the box and you compared the laser cut kit as it was out of the box... Would you still have the same opinion? Apples with Apples comparison so to speak... 😉 Happy Modelling 👍

What is the laser cut kit glue made of , if it is super glue I'm allergic. I use pva in a bottle with a Needle for presition amount of glue.

Hi Adam, An interesting insight into pigments. You have a like and a new sub…and I’ve been shopping at your online store..! Best wishes from a very wet Wirral.

I would suggest that when assembling things like this you use the top edge to make alignments not the bottom. The top is always seen, Any finger poking or viewing parallax alignment faults made when aligning to the bottom are magnified when they effect later additions at the top. The bottom alignment errors can be grassed or dirtied over, the top ones are there for all to see for ever. The same for the inner wall and coping, align the top edge.

This is designed as a stone not brick building. I don't think Jonathon would have designed the kit with bricks more than 4 times scale size. Doesn't detract from the techniques used and some parts of the North West and Scotland do have red sandstone.

Thank you for this guide. This will help many people with DCC fitting chips to retro models from the 1980's and 1990's.

I like non standard paint jobs 👌😎☕️ ps have you ever built the will’s engine shed that is really nice 👍🏻 😊

I do love laser kits, I`ve had many fairprice kits, plastic seems to have fallen behind as theres little 00 houses and i`ve gone faller or heljan or the older Hornby kits which are still made under gaugemaster, I seal the brick work with matt varnish after painting then if your doing a motar wash or i sometimes use tiling grout, it stops the pre painted surface be rubbed off.

And link your vids.