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The Appliance Technician
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Добавлен 10 ноя 2011
Mostly appliance related videos, some stuff blowing up, some high voltage fun in the garage. . . Just the more interesting stuff an appliance technician and electronics nerd does day in and day out.
Replacing LG Linear compressor with a regular compressor
Here I replaced a LG linear compressor with a regular old school 1/3 hp compressor. I drew out another way to do the same thing with a bldc compressor for a friend and I've included the schematic for that in this video as well.
Просмотров: 42 246
Видео
LG Board Removal from housing
Просмотров 1866 лет назад
Removing a LG main board from the plastic housing and conformal coating. Sort of. The best way I've found at least. Volume is low, but it's just me yammering on anyway. You get the point.
How to wire a start relay for a PTC compressor
Просмотров 5 тыс.7 лет назад
Rather than using a generic part I use the GE relays. This is how to wire them and avoid compressor damage from a hard start, 3-1, or another device. More of a factory match and takes up less space in the truck. GE part.
Inverter compressor tester, the beginning
Просмотров 33 тыс.7 лет назад
This is the original board I programmed to run an inverter. I think its cool, but not really necessary to be able to run them at 3 speeds so that's when I came up with the smaller one. The smaller one needs to find it's happy place. I'm going to keep playing with the frequency until I like it.
Fan feedback cheat
Просмотров 2038 лет назад
Using a voltage divider circuit to replicate a fan feedback line.
LG Linear Compressor Teardown
Просмотров 54 тыс.8 лет назад
Tearing Down a LG linear compressor to see what's inside of it, how it moves and what caused this one to fail at only 1 1/2 years old.
Frigidaire wall oven open neutral part 1
Просмотров 2068 лет назад
This is a Kenmore badged Frigidaire wall oven that had an open neutral connection at the junction box. When I would ohm the bake or broil circuit the neutral would somehow connect and the power transformer would briefly send power to the user interface board that would beep every time it powered up. It would not sustain the power to it though. It would sustain a load to a Loz function on the me...
More bsv (ghost voltage)
Просмотров 1498 лет назад
I've had a run of ghost voltages lately. Here's the latest from out in the field. What I had was a dryer not heating complain,t so knowing that this had a roof vent instead of a short wall vent I suspected the thermal fuse was blown. I did a quick ohm test and they both passed, heater passed, everything tested good initially. Then I went to a regular voltage test. 120 on both sides of both fuse...
Reading voltage when it's not there
Просмотров 7678 лет назад
Ghost voltage, or BS voltage accidental demonstration.
Whirlpool Spark Module
Просмотров 2568 лет назад
Theres nothing personal against this one, it was just in the wrong place at the wrong time.
You can see the piece that broke off at the top of the screen at 2:39 . It looks like a reed valve attached to the piston.
That black stuff is black death. It gets pumped into the other components eventually causing a restriction in cap tube down the road. Tried on test fridge to flush it with no luck. Worst compressor ever. When they go unless the windings fail first they released that black sludge and it contaminates the whole system
Worst compressor EVER LG and Samsung are Trash!
Well that's a great father's day gift to wake up too! (Yes I know I'm 6 years late to the party)
what junk looks like somebody's lego block project
The best thing you can do to keep this compressor alive is it needs to be kept as cool as possible. I see these refrigerators installed with cabinets tightly against the sides and top. It's critical that the top has at least 2 inches of clearance from the cabinet above. Also, every French Door LG I've seen had vent slots in the base of the cabinet by the condenser and compressor. Hard to see but they are there. Those slots allow air to be drawn in from floor level into and through the condenser, then exhausted back out at floor level once passing over the compressor. I see these slots completely blocked with dust all the time. People just don't know they are there, and the owners manual makes no mention of keeping them clean. Of course it goes without saying , keep the condenser clean. Blow it out, don't just vacuum it. Do it twice a year. If you have furry companions , do it more often. LG needs to put a high compressor temperature warning into their refrigerators. That will get the attention of owners and hopefully they will jump into action. And what's up with that cheap Reed valve design? Every linear compressor I've replaced had high suction pressure due to that valve failing. "New designs" ( not sure what is new) are still failing the same way. I have customers with 75 year old refrigerators that are still humming. What are those Reed valves made of that LG can't duplicate.
Lg servicecenter owner here. The heat kills them. You MUST keep these cool! 1. Unplug unit before moving it. Or throw breaker. 2. Remove lower rear metal cover. 3. Vacuum dust off the condenser and back metal cover. 4. Repeat every 6 months or more if you have hairy pets. If you do a lot of frying (looking at you folks from india, Bangladesh, Mexico etc.) You may need to use a degreaser on the condenser) 5. Leave or make space on all sides according to the manual. If that is not possible, put a hole in the upper cabinet and a fan. They must stay cool! Almost all failures i see have a dirty condenser and or install in a tight cabinet with no ventilation. You can put a temperature logger on or near the compressor that will send the data to your cell phone for under $20 on Amazon. Set an over temperature alarm. If you keep it happy it might last 20 years or more!
2:06 So if you wire it backwards it just won't start and run... So you can ohm out the compressor and know exactly where the start and run terminals are definitively but you don't know which wire goes to which pin on the start relay or overload ...just switch it and if it Don't start the compressor switch it but you risk burning out the fucking windings on the new compressor with this method. Hacking shit. This is why they only last a month when you wire it..... This is just ha k shht.
The diaphragm which works like a speaker woofer to move the linear piston to compress move refrigerant. It’s just cheap and gets hot. So keep your coils clean hope you get 5 years. I’ve had some customers that are now at 10 years. So I wonder why exactly some fail so fast. Particals in system not sure. That’s for tearing it down for us techs to see.
its a fundametally (i will leave the ironic typo?) flawed design... sure, they look simple, and the basic idea makes sense, but mechanically speaking... its useless. linear... as pressure rises, that magnetic circuit can only deliver the same force on the piston. pressure can never be higher than that force over area. rotary /reciprocating... the crank and conrod automatically provide a neat force amplification as pressure rises, basic geometry. where else do we see such a mechanism? in a press. a clamp.... over-center latches...
Would this cause any error codes to pop up thereby preventing the ice and water dispenser to stop?
Love the ingenuity, especially arduino board to vcc3! Would you have any info on how you programmed the arduino board?
I´m interested to get information to integrate EMBRACO VCC3 variable speed controller with BLDC compressor, how is the integration of temperature control of LG PCB with VCC3, since Linear compressors are a poor performance and realiability ..On the other hand I think the replacement of linear compressor with a conventional one is no quite accurate since the PCB temperature control is not on- off just through PWM controls the linear compressor increasing or decreasing the speed depending of the load.Just the linear compressor is shutting down when defrosting process starts..
Bad design or just cheaply built?
dont ever buy any appliance with a linear compressor .
You still need to add FL-3FF-S-Z relay module 5v. To the signal Orange wire that turns on the fan coming out by the condenser fan or PCB, Blk & Red=12v...
Good day I checked the wires by the condenser fan and PCB board for the 12 volt output but when I press the reset button three times the compressor does not turn off, everythings else shut off...
They'd last a long time if they actually built the valve with quality materials and design. looks like they opted for stamped and compliant polymer stuff instead of machined surfaces.
i think is over engineered and steered to fail.
Other teardowns that same reed valve is also broken.
Does the change to a normal compressor that requires oil ever clog up the capillary tubes since they are very tiny for the dual evaporators? I was thinking my broke one could have a clogged tubes. What do you think?
LG linears have oil in them. The oil-less ones came out after these in a different brand. Clean oil shouldn't clog a cap tube as it circulates in the system.
The thin reed valve mounted on the top of the piston has a hole it in. Bingo. No seal. No pumping.
The name on the refer should be ULG - Un-Lucky Goldstar 🙂
Trying to figure out what would cause that valve to fail, metal reed valves have been around since forever and are used in pretty much every air compressor and two stroke on the planet. Looking at the way that hole is shaped it appears to me that the pressure is causing it to bend into the shape of the hole in the piston likely fatiguing the part. If I had one of these I'd get a new valve laser cut outta some thicker spring steel and reassemble, last thing I'd do is replace the compressor as the valve is clearly not able to handle the high pressure side of the compressor.
But the compressor is in a sealed (welded) housing (which is already cut off in this video) so you can't access the compressor bit shown without opening the compressor shell with a cut off wheel or saw... This is pretty much an un serviceable part, unless you put in extreme care, time, and cleanliness to open and re weld that shell on.
@@volvo09 Does the housing actually hold any pressure? If not it would be like a 30 minute job to clean and weld. Not an HVAC guy so I don't know, just seems pretty stupid to keep replacing the same expensive part every two years considering how much of a pain it would be to pull out, put a new one in, and re-charge the system.
Yes, the compressor is part of the sealed system and holds refrigerant. It might be possible to do that but it would be an incredible feat to accomplish. The compressor is pretty much a dome holding a motor supported by springs and connected with steel tubing to the outside of the dome. The reed valve is inside of the motor. @@linuxguy1199
@@theappliancetechnician Yeah it seems like it would be a feat, but personally I'd give it a try if I had one of these, I do most of my own work and can't stand having to replace something over and over with the same crappy part.
I have another video where I use a regular compressor instead of the linear. That one is still working in a friends garage where it hits 100+ degrees June through Sept here. @@linuxguy1199
@2:53 If you look above the "piston" you'll notice the broken part of what I would think may be called a reed valve or something similar. What a shame they couldn't build things better.
It's not uncommon to see that weird break in it either. I've seen it several times. You'd think they would break on the connecting parts and crack off but it hasn't been the case from what I've seen.
@@theappliancetechnicianI think there is some kind of high-frequency rippling occurring in the reed as it comes down on its seating, and this is causing a very local sharp bending that exceeds the fatigue limit of the material. I have seen a rather similar reed failure in a factory air compressor, in which it wasn't so serious because this can easily be taken apart and reassembled. For many years Yamaha used reed valves in the induction system of two-stroke motorcycle engines; I have worked on many of these and have never seen a broken reed. Yamaha's reeds close onto rubber-coated seats that probably have the effect of damping out any high-frequency rippling. They also have curved backing pieces that limit how much they can curve on opening.
post up the terminal ID so we don't have to guess 'forwards' vs 'backwards'
I had two LG refers fail, one under warranty, the other, one year out of warranty. Both were bad compressors. Fortunately, LG agreed to fix the second one no charge. Problem is, the repair was badly botched by the service company resulting in a second repair by a different service company. (Covered by LG.) Now, the dang thing makes a clunking noise when I move the refer. It does not make the noise when it’s running, only if I shift it back and forth just a little. Sounds like something is loose inside the compressor but after watching the video, I can’t see what it might be. It never made this noise before and the service company tried to convince me it was a normal sound, when it’s running, but his argument was flat when I told him it was not running. Anyone have any ideas? TIA.
Compressors will clunk if you shake them. The motor sits on 4 springs inside of the metal dome it's housed in so it moves a bit. Moving it will make a clunking noise. There are clips that hold the compressor down to the frame of the ref, if they're there then it may be normal when moving it back and forth. I'm not so sure I'd believe it was a botched install with the failure rate of these compressors and some techs need to make themselves feel better by talking S about another's work. I'd like to think that techs grow out of that when they get the tables turned on them. If it's in, and nothing is kinked and it worked for a year and they changed the filter I can't see how it's a botched job. If it's botched that bad it would have never worked. Especially with over and under amp errors on the inverter that runs it. Sloppy job, maybe but sealed system work is like sausage. You don't really want to see how it's made as it's not always pretty. I try to make mine pretty and usually do, but I'm not perfect either and have had some jobs that don't want to seal properly and end up with a quarter stick of brazing rod on it. Also it depends on if they used a torch or lok ring. Lok ring is supposed to be easier but the rings don't always seal and more experienced techs will braze the whole lock ring in extreme cases and that's ok too. It has to be sealed, and it has to flow. Anything more than that is lagniappe. I've seen ugly jobs that lasted 10+ years and think "That guy was having a bad day or a tough time with that braze but stuck with it and got the job done."
@@theappliancetechnician The first replacement compressor lasted 3 days. The tech used some kind of compression fittings, did not braze the lines. The second tech (different company) brazed all the lines. I’ve checked out a couple of other videos showing a tear down of an LG compressor and they do float and move inside the housing. Maybe it is normal but never heard it before on this refer or the other LG I have.
Lok Rings are the compression type fittings and yeah, that's why I don't use them and braze instead. To each his own. I haven't met a compressor that doesn't clunk when you shake it and have done quite a few of these replacements. In my experience there's about a 10% chance they will never work again when these go out. I've had some run ins with these.
Why replace it with a linear compressor? Inverters are 30-40% more efficient. Are there issues with the inverter units that make them crap on a regular basis or something??
The linear compressors don't last so here's how to put a regular one in that should last much longer. I see LG linears go out after 2 years and I'm not shocked. We dont' typically do this but I have one that's been running in a garage with 100 degree summers now with a regular split phase in it for I'm guessing 5 years now and it's still going.
@@walterbaumy7124 Ah...so the issue is with the linear compressors themselves. Dammit. I'm moving to Belize next year and want an inverter fridge because electricity is 5-6x more expensive down there than it is in the states. Gonna hafta do a cost/benefit analysis of savings on electricity vs. cost of replacing the linear compressor. Thanks for the info!
Great video. What would be a good replacement for a LG fc75lbna linear compressor to a conventional single phase compressor? Could you do a part list or a link to locate parts?
They change, unfortunately and you have to see what the supplier has. I usually can find an embraco that will work but with all the new ones coming out it's getting harder. I don't really have a go to for this as I don't do many this way. There are some sites that sell compressors and what I look for is a 1/3hp non commercial split phase and can find a decent priced compressor that will work. The commercial ones will work but pull a ton of amps. A friend ordered one and I installed it years ago and it's still running in a garage without issue but it pulled 2-3 amps if I remember right. I think I posted on that one either here or my other channel under the appliance technician.
1/3hp sounds a bit much, i'd do embraco ff8.5
I've got the same oven and I'm also finding that I have an open neutral. Thanks for sharing.
Is it possible to get more specific info on the relays and wires added? I have an LG that failed with the replaced compressor. I bought a new 115 volt embraco compressor
I like these. You can get them in 5vdc, 9vdc and 12vdc. I'd use the 12v. The fan should run at 12 but I have used the 9 in other applications for varying power supplies. For line going to the compressor and relay I use probably a 12 gauge wire or lamp cord works well. For the 9-12v signal wire you can use pretty much whatever is easy to work with. There really is no substantial load on triggering a relay.
I need a part number for the BLDC compressor or best compressor replacement for the LG fridge same as the one in the video
They change. Find a 1/3 hp compressor for residential. Not commercial. Ebay will usually find one.
What's so difficult about mounting the camera on a tripod and using both hands to do the work????/?
Feel free to make your own videos.
@@theappliancetechnician People are just ungrateful entitled dicks aren't they? Thanks for the video!
@@linuxguy1199 seriously, he's getting free info and complains that it doesn't look the way he wants it.
The compressor failed in my 2018 Kenmore refrigerator manufactured by LG and one of those crappy LG linear compressor. The power-feed comes out the bottom of the cabinet just above the compressor with a black and red wire. I'm assuming it should be 120 volts but it's about 6.8 volts ac. If it was an older type of fridge I would just tap off the condenser fan with the 120 since they come on together in older bottles. So I have a replacement nonlinear oppressor of similar BTU. Could you help me out with the wiring has the feed coming down through the bottom of the cabinet isn't adequate voltage near 120. I want to do it simply and we'll have to run wires down I'm sure from the top of the circuit board which is on the top of the refrigerator under a big cover
Sounds like a garbage reading, like the cord is broken or you're measuring at the wrong place. The cord coming in should be 120vac. The voltage to the condenser fan should be about 12vac. The feedback line should ready about 4-6 so if you're tapped into that there's the problem. ?
thank you
Very good experiment but what voltage did you get to close the replay i try i and i can get 12 volt to close or pull in the replay and next when you open the door of the fridge the gan stop let me know what you think respond back thanks God bless
That kind of a butterfly in the upper chamber is the one that breaks over time, cause is moving up and down, and then the succion and or the pressure diminish or stops, and on end no cooling. maybe the system or the metal alloy or quality has to be fixed, if they haven't. (the main motor almost never fails)
Good morning Walter, I have a question for you (and anyone who can answer), I just swapped out my compressor on the LG LXSX26366S (2016 model), the compressor is LG FC75LBNA and was swapped with a DanfossTL2.5G. I used an external power source (extension cord) to power the compressor, I did not pull power from the refrigerator at all, because when it started, I stick my meter in the back of the power line of the Molex plug to the compressor, it modulated from 87V to 155V and it keeps modulate itself up and down, I don't believe the Danfoss like that at all. My question is, can I use a 110V coil contactor (instead of the 12V DC relay in your diagram) as a switch on and of for the refrigerator, and use the line voltage from the compressor (from the Molex lug of the refrigerator (from the PCB)) as a signal line to close the 110V contactor? The compressor itself will still be powered by a short extension cord. So basically, power from the extension cord goes to the 110V contactor, as soon the refrigerator needs cooling, it sends power to the Molex plug (which power the contactor) and closed the circuit (which turns on the compressor). Do you think it will work that way? Will the 110V contactor work with that modulating AC power from the PCB? I have tried to grab the 12V DC signal from CON 8 (pins 14, 15, and 16) but it is too weak to power the 12V DC relay like you were shown. I am open to any suggestions. Thank you, you all!
Update: don't do the 110v coil route, it will chatter due to fluctuation in voltage (ask me how I know)
Broken reed valve fail.
Still just a piston, same as a hundred years ago.
Pack of smokes on the side.😉
I recently purchased a new lg French door fridge with the linear compressor . Of course I hear about the failures after the fact . I’m hoping they’ve got this resolved in 2023 ? Maybe wishful thinking
They're still dying out there. There's been 101 excuses as to why and "fixes" that no one can explain except in unprovable theories. Time will tell, but I don't believe them. Somehow they are here to stay and still failing a lot.
@@theappliancetechnician lol,go figure. You would think after infinite failures over the past years and law suits etc,that they’d address the issue
@@MajorTendonitis They've "addressed" it for sure, with fairy dust and excuses and board updates that they never can fully explain. Like the samsung icemakers, 50+ fixes and no real solutions. Muddy the waters enough and you'll never get a straight answer on how to fix it. Sad part is that no one knows how to get to the bottom of a problem anymore, and this was the point of this video. Techs will even say "It's fixed" and walk away as the new standard is to walk away from it working now. Nevermind 6 months from now. I do everything I can to find the source and solution to the problem.
Embraco is almost as good a Tecumsa...Very reliable..
Nice try-but you might get electrocuted with a hot grounded on the frame..
I have a 2019 LG french door fridge with linear compressor that has just failed 3.8 years old ( 2 months shy of 4 years) is all it lasted. One week later Tech was here and diagnosed -- unit has a bad compressor, we are on schedule to get replaced next week. So I guess they improved them from lasting 1.3 years to 3.8 years if that is an improvement I guess?? Currently living out of a cooler for next 2 weeks-- bare necessities, milk , eggs, etc.. threw a lot of perfectly good food out that would not fit into cooler.
can i apply this schematic for LG refrigerator linear compressor rate input 220-240v. replacing the linear compressor with a conventional compressor using a 12v relay. Thanks
You can apply it to any circut that will run a compressor on it's own. A split phase is simpler but I've done it with a bldc with a vcc3 control board but you need to program an arduino to run it. I did another video of that and how it works. Either will work and I've done both for proof of concept.
I just performed this retrofit myself, after LG couldn't get anyone to even look at our dead refrigerator. They gave us a settlement but I couldn't see tossing a two year old refrigerator in the dump when it's a pretty nice design in most other respects. I slapped a 1/5+ hp Embraco compressor in it, slaving a s/s relay off the DC supply to the condenser fan and it's currently working great now. Some people have expressed concerns about the controller popping codes after disconnecting the inverter feed to the compressor but our model didn't. I can see that being a possibility for some models though. Nevertheless, it worked on a model LSXC22486D. The new compressor was model FF7.5HBK1. Have fun tracing out the wires to the condenser fan. They change color somewhere between the controller and the disconnect at the condenser. They were gray and white/black up at the board harness, but red and black at the fan harness. Polarity is important if you use a s/s relay and make sure you get the power supply wires to that fan, not the signal wires. It's a four wire, stepper motor type fan and I wouldn't want to see what happens if you tap into the signal wires.
How's it working so far? If you took the power wires then you might have a problem with the compressor running all the time. Depends on the model. I doubt it's a stepper, I'd guess it's a bldc with a signal to run and a feedback line with a constant 12vdc pos and neg going to it. I have messed with those and will use a 5vdc relay on the signal line in for fan speed. I'd think that's the case here, but the full speed run is 9+vdc so putting a relay on that might be close enough to close it and coil voltage is variable on relays. I don't use solid states though. If it's working fine after a week or two then great, if not you might have grabbed the wrong wires if it freezes up from the compressor running non stop.
@@theappliancetechnician I have run into the first issue with this ever. I've successfully done this number on at least 20 something fridges but right now I'm having an issue with the compressor running all the time. My condenser fan only has 3 wires and in the past I've been able to use the same 2 wires and its always worked like a champ but with this one I'm having the compressor kick on as soon as I plug the fridge in so would I be tapped into the wrong 2 wires possibly? I'm an appliance tech/hvac repair guy
The grand daddy of linear compressor is the Japanese company Sawafuji that makes Engel portable DC/AC refrigerator. They call it swing compressor. The compressor is driven by very simple circuit that take advantage of the sprung mass natural frequency. I believe they started this compressor technology as far back as the 60s. Even till this day, it is as energy efficient as the much more complex and modern smart electronic driven DC rotary compressors started by Danfoss.
Thanks for the FYI. I've seen this design in other things that was a good design like air pumps and there was a pretty heavy and simple steel one that used the same mechanics. I guess they skimped on the material this go around. The ones I've torn down have had broken reed valves and complete burn outs for lack of better terms.
@@theappliancetechnician I appreciate the reply. I infer from the class action lawsuit this LG linear compressor for their fridges had been an utter failure, due to these design and manufacturing flaws. I infer LG has since switched to more conventional inverter rotary compressor like those by Embraco that supplies the bulk of the usual suspect brands. LG now only touts "smart inverter compressor" and provide no useful information. I would not be surprised it too are now using Embraco compressors. I am not a LG hater. In fact I prefer LG over Samsung and all the US flag flying brands.
@@maestrovso As of now I still see 2 year old compressor failures on a weekly basis on LG refrigerators, nothing has changed.
LG JUST NEEDS TO GIVE EVERYONE A FULL REFUND AT THIS POINT
Oh they will in the near future. ANOTHER CLASS ACTION in 2024 is being launched. Waiting for 'class' status. The suit was assembled in 2/2024 by attorney Azar Mouzari in Beverly Hills, 468 N Camden. She is suing LG for the inadequate Linear compressor and fraud. Fraud because LG knowingly continued to sell the defective compressors in the refrigerators. There has already been a class action law suit in 2018. If anyone embarked on that lawsuit they are not eligible unless they purchased another frig after 2018.
Hey Walter, great stuff! I met u a few years back at a GE tour in Louisville. Hope all is well! Todd
I've heard that these compressors can't tolerate any sealed system leaks due to flimsy valve design compared to conventional compressors. So replacing a compressor without checking for leaks is doomed idea. Also it's hard to find a leak because of negative low side pressure but I've heard that most of the time it's evaporator connections. Yamaha makes motorcycle engines with reed valves and they run fine so there must be something to make them break.
There are successful builds with this design but this isn't one of them. These are mostly 134 so they don't run at 600 negative pressures. I'm sure there are 600 systems out there but most of the ones we see haven't been.