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Your a star mate ...thanks ....

Thinking about drilling out the shaft and tapping a thread in it, drill a hole through door handle and bolting it on

I have been to multiple garages and all of them have said my suspension is fine yet i get knocking sounds when turning the wheel, could what you're describing be the issue? i have a video i uploads to shorts that shows the sound it makes if you or anyone is able to have a look i'd appreciate it ruclips.net/user/shortsGqn2FG6aCJU

thanks for this it helped test my Meriva B. I have already replaced the clock spring and the horn works tested relay also thats working so looks like i have an isse from the rear of the clock spring to the fuse box.

Is this from the outside or it cracked also from inside? I mean, are there layers? And you only replace the outside layer that is broken?

Right to the point, Thank you for the quick tip. And thanks for not wearing rubber gloves like all them fake pussies on youtube.

Exactly the same clicking on starting. Whats happened. Caught in traffic & had to reverse for a few hundred meters to allow other cars to get through. On doing so steam came though the bonnet & on opening it, the coolant bottle was completely overflowing & spirting all over the place with boiling coolant. Had to leave it hours to cool down. Then completely filled the coolant system back up & it started ok & drove ok for 100miles. The following morning it wouldn't start & the clicking started, also noticed two pin prick holes on the coolant tank, so leaking very slightly. It'll start with a push or on a downhill, but not otherwise...just the clicking sound. Battery is checked & 100% fine. I'm wondering if the connections (battery or starter) have been effected or the live cable from the battery to starter have been effected, with the boiling coolant? I'm now going to clean the battery connections properly & try. The starter, i'm unsure where it is, so i can get to it & do the same? The car has always started first time prior to the coolant all over the place.

Does yours start arcing without pulling the trigger?

Awsome idea

Was there no brake fluid coming out from the pipe the first time when u was trying to bleed it? (Before changing)

Which accent is that? Norfolk or Portsmouth?

It's the bit that's been cut that I can't work out - how to actually get the handle in place before inserting the clip.

The sensor will not warm up with the engine heating up, that the job of the temp sensor in the water jacket, the one you showed measures the ambient air temp entering via the filter from outside.

Where do you get the jump wire from ?

how do you manage to make the entire video out of focus

Excellent. Thanks

would this work for reverse filling brakes or not recommended? fitted new gearbox/engine/brakes on corsa c, will be replacing fluid with DOT5.1 so have to flush it all,

i have a 2008 Saturn Astra in the US . have the issue with top bumper rusting out . the nuts rusting also .. so dealing with it now .. have the new top bumper mount .. just have to put it on . assemble .. luv my Astra .. cool cars .. mine has 100k miles .. runs drives like new . interior very good shape . its like a new car . luv it . pics . drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Hn36AebKzJzs7xJ4l8Ok-nAVM8o_SmqV?usp=drive_link

In France and blower stopped working. Given me a start point, thank you.

Appreciate you responding to every comment. I have an Astra J GTC 1.4T the clutch pedal sticks a bit. It's at 48K miles now. I suspect the CMC is the issue, but before this I want to try to bleed my clutch properly. Let me list down the steps and you could correct me. 1. Get a oil can and fill it with Dot 4. 2. Make sure the oil can expels oil and not air after a few pumps. 3. Connect the hose from the oil can to the bleed nipple. 4. Open the reservoir cap and fill the brake fluid level upto Max in the reservoir ? 5. Fully open the bleed nipple. 6. Pump oil from the oil can while keeping an eye on the reservoir, so it doesn't overflow. 7. If it's going to overflow, take out some brake fluid and keep pumping. 8. Continue till theres no air noise or oil in the can? Sorry, complete noob to cars, trying to learn to service my car without spending a fortune. Could you please help me fix the mistakes? or if you already have a video that's great. Thank you.

I've got a pananaa aokobian think thats the name or similar 😂 its good for motorcycle and the body looks identical to yours. Was 40 quid. It can remove the rear axel easy after hammering away for about 5 seconds. The spec is 120nm rear axle. It can remove the engine retaining bolt at 160nm after about 8 seconds. The latter is the tightest bolt. Other bolts with thread lock break away no problem. The most it struggles with is cylinder head covers as i need ro use a 12inch extension and they torque at 80nm. But again it comes away in the end about 12 seconds. I had to grease the anvil first thing as it barely had any lubricant on it. For the bike its been good had it for a year servicing a 650cc.

I found 2 ports, one has five pins and one has two.

My strutt mountings are clapping with a slight wobble on turns.

do volt drop test too,circuit on ,loaded wire,clip on battery earth,other end on other end wire,should not light up if good,as one piece cable,end to end test,had battery cable snap inside itself,end to end test found bad cable

Cool classic ride ❤

Never knew about the hatch under the wheel arch! Thank you so much!

Thank you!!!

video starts at 3:19

I ended up trying to remove the whole headlight assembly. Didn’t work and I gave up for RUclips!

Thank you

Cheers mate. Looks like a great engine bay tool but suspension and bigger jobs ill swerve it!

Did not show how to remove the front seat headrest

Hi there, do you know what fitting is required to attach an air hose to the Compressor? Read online that its difficult to find out what fitting goes into the compressor to attach a air hose

Thank you for your helpful visual instruction.

I got an ac system from a donor car to my 95 civic, fan worked fine when I tested it outside, but now everything is installed it’s not working. When should it start running? When one presses the ac button? Or whenever the compressor is working?

Wheres the low port for vauxhall corsa d is it the same place under air intake box... thanks

This rubbers are they removable

Thanks for the video.

Informative, thanks for the information, it is all greatly appreciated 🤘😎

Trying to decide between this one or the Dewalt version, have batteries for both and generally prefer Dewalt tools but this looks a handy bit of kit, thanks for the review 👍🏻

Thank you bro.

Mate we can't see what you're doing

Thanks very much for this very informative and straightforward video. Very helpful indeed. Thank you for posting this.

Hi there. I have an issue related to my fuel pump relay on Vauxhall 1.6 B. Engine turns over but does not start. When I remove the plastic cover from the relay I can see that it does not engage. Have swapped over the relay and the fuse box, but still does not start. Engine management light stays on. Only starts if I manually hold the metal part of the relay together as to manually engage it. Any ideas? Only possible causes are engine washed (my bad) and I unplugged the switch/plug that goes to the injectors while the engine was running. Drove fine after the engine wash. Only stopped starting after I unplugged the connector going to spark plugs

thanks mate!

Hello I have a 1994 Honda Civic dx , the coolant doesn’t want to go through the hose and I already changed the thermostat and radiator and the fans also doesn’t want to kick in and when I add coolant , I don’t feel the coolant circulating at all

How long those batteries are last ?

Thank you for this!!

On my zafira b horn itself works even though it looks as though its been rescued from the titanic i ran a direct 12 volt cable to it and it beeps :) the connections on the horn were just spade conections so looks as though its had a different horn in the past i changed the spade connections as they were rused to hell im only getting 3-4v dc then the horn button on the steering wheeel is pressed the relay is clicking away ok ive tried to short across connections as you have shown in this great clip im getting the same readings back at my multimeter looking at the condition of the wiring itself its very tarnished inside the conductivity will no doubt be poor im guessing this could be the problem ? i might even just run another feed into car dash put a push to make horn button and new wiring via a relay to the existing horn as the wiring loom looks a pain.

Thanks matey 👍🏾