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You explained 1000 times better than LMR did 🙄 thanks bro 🙏

It’s a cool fix for a personal car. But the glued dash is kinda scary. Heater core components or the blower motor gets hard to replace

that's not a dash, its a dash skin.

I'm doing this now and watched a few videos on the job. This was by far the best. Great job keeping it simple but informative, will be checking out some of the other stuff on your channel!

I know where one is for 1200! Don’t look that good by a long shot lol 😆

i need help bad i’ve changed my plenum and intake manifold gaskets and now my truck runs horrible i know i plugged everything in right but it had bad power loss and sounds like a helicopter and jumps bad at 40mph. HELPPPP

hi i have mutange 2014 155 km can i change all one time

Man this has been one of the best DIY videos I've seen. Thank you so much.

I did the same, but after installing a negative battery, cable my car won't start. Do i have to charge battery?

It looks like crap. The waves in the headliner are going to cause it to fall off again very quickly. The steering wheel is loose and wrinkled it looks rushed/poorly done. And gluing the dash is so asinine it never would have crossed my mind someone would do something so short sighted and lazy. Your time and money would have been better spent on a dash/wheel cover, ripping out the headliner and most importantly replacing the drivers seat with a used one that isn't blown out. This looks like something you'd see a tweaker driving around looking for scrap.

Nice video

Good score, great bike I bought one new in 97 and raced and trail rode it for 26 years before selling it, I now have a 2023 YZ 125

lol that gorilla mortar is terrible try locktight or liquid nail similar price better quality.

Better to just press out the old ball joints and press in new ones

Appreciate the video Just got a 96 and ima follow ✌️ 🙏

Vacuum and o2 delete I have the same engine in my second gen and those PVC valves are switched on mine the air filter alone is on the other side running to the right valve when looking at the engine ive done a total vacuum delete caped on one side and the other is open sucking air as it's only designed for ac and the other side was designed for the master break cylinder all connected, some front differentials are ran off the vacuum I've swapped to electric and that is not how you would check you can take the cap off to the oil crank fill and see if it blows air dont tell shit next you delete the upstream no pluging just put a bolt or clip the wire to the O2, the down stream will still be connected completely remove the wire from the wiring lue or plug it into a computer and tell the engine it's fine if you complete all that properly you can now run with out causing any problems no leaks as its been totally deleted if you please keep in mind its only for emissions and hurts your engine you will have twice the amount even quadruple the amount of gas going back to the tank threw the coal pack system I get roughly 30 mpg and more, every test I've done is 150 miles on 5 gallons some times 5.5 gallons over come the system we are told to live in it's a lie the truck being manufactured was 12 mpg my truck is lifted with a 12 inch lift massive tires and gets 30 mpg threw the vacuum delete you will have less stress on the engine I go about 90 miles an hour with my mods and it doesn't have to work hard at all 3000 rpm is the highest it goes as it's using 100% of the power as the engine was intended for yes it's considered illegal however it's not for older vehicles if they make laws it no longer needs emissions on older vehicles then why bother keeping the engine or the machine from its full potential emissions laws are good for 20 years you will burn the cleanest air man has ever known deleting the awful idea of control man has placed on the next man. Vaccume and O2 delete to save your engine and your money please remember to equip electrical to vacuum ran differential and break cylinders if you covet ac not to worry it still work as long as you keep it hooked up and maintain your ac components

Why is nobody saying it looks like crap, to make it look good (factory) you have to fro a lot more than 200$

take cardboard or something to cover that radiator...

Great video brother thank you for the detailed step by step process I feel a lot more comfortable doing this in a day now 😂😂

Hows it holding up still? About to do the same this weekend on my 96 5.2

Great video. Are any gaskets required to be replaced? Thanks for the help.

My 2014 mustang is like at 82k miles and I’ve never changed the transmission oil do you recommend a full flush out or ?

Any different on a 300c 5.7 (2008)? I got new Sway bar bushings and end links, but after watching this I'm thinking on doing the rest as you did. Didn't seem too difficult. Thanks for your time.

How’s it holding up 2 years later? I’m curious because I might do the same

Very nice bro on the cylinder head it says Y2 . my bike is a 1997 and it says Y1 on cylinder head.... ?

I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 1995 Dodge Ram 1500. When I started taking the bolts out, I noticed some of them were loose. Once I got the valve cover off and looked at the gasket, it looked like it was still in good shape. (It was metal with rubber coating on both sides, so not low quality like cork or fiberboard they used years ago.) If I hadn't already bought the new gaskets, I would have tried tightening the bolts to see if that would have stopped the leaks. If you're having leaking, my advice would be to first check the bolts and if any are loose, try tightening them and see if that stops the leaks. It might save you some time. The passenger side was easier to replace than the driver side. Brake master cylinder is close to the valve cover, so it made it more difficult to get to two of the bolts towards the back of the engine and also to remove the valve cover from the engine compartment. Also, when I was reinstalling the valve cover and trying to insert the last bolt on the top side of the cover and at the back of the engine, it wouldn't go in the hole. Something was blocking it. So, I removed the cover and saw that it was a metal tab attached to the wiring harness that rests on top edge of the valve cover. It had gotten in the way under the valve cover, so I moved it out of the way and was able to get bolt into the hole. Other comments: I didn't remove the air cleaner, because it wasn't in my way. When installing the valve covers, I simply placed the gasket on top of the head and then set the valve cover on top. It wasn't hard to get the bolt holes in the the gasket and valve cover to line up to install the bolts, so I didn't see a need to glue the gasket to the valve cover. I didn't use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts, because I don't have one with 3/8" drive. I just tightened them with the ratchet about 1/4 - 1/2 turn after hand tight.

No content worth watching

Getting ready to do this again for the 5th or 6th time. Watching this reminds me of how much it sucks.

(got a 97 Mazda b2300) Thank you for the info , You gave me Chrisfix vibes , Keep it up , Love you!

Here is AZ, I use 5w 20, roads temps in the 200+f

3:15

Searching for capacity for my 2012 v6 3.7 i found 11qts?

Thats a lot of work. Good job dude. Also fuck you dodge.

This is NOT an easy job. Those sensors are hard af to get to. And when you do they are frozen in there. I was only able to get the downstream ones out today. You can't use a regular o2 sensor socket. There is no clearance. You have to use the smaller half length o2 socket. That tool you're using SUCKS. It doesn't have enough force, and I used a ton of freaking pb blaster. Since my regular length o2 socket didn't fit I had to rush to AutoZone and get the loaner crow's foot tool like you have, and I also got the loaner socket set that had the half size o2 socket. That is the only one that worked. Before I went to AutoZone I tried to use an adjustable wrench. Horrible idea. All it did was strip the sensor a little making it harder to remove. I didn't have enough time to get the two upstream sensors. I briefly tried under the vehicle and on top, but there is no freaking clearance. My Dad was rushing me (it's his car) so i told him to just come back next Saturday, and I'll try to get the upstream sensors.

My 2013 V6 performance is at 52,000. Wish it had a drain plug. Hopefully I can just suction most out and put that much new oil in. Does the fill/dipstick hole have a clean shot to the bottom of the pan? Is there a gasket on the dipstick fill plug that needs changed?

For future use

It's been shown that generally the only thing needed for the plenum plate is shorter bolts. The bolts being too long actually bottom out and don't hold the plenum plate tight enough. Those bolts would be alot cheaper than the Hughes item.

Where did you get your dash from?

You just gorilla glued a dash COVER into the place where an actual dash should go.... the actual dash top replacement is $350+ by itself. So yeah you just wrecked that dash, good luck finding a good core/frame to replace that one with. Those are between $600 and $1200 depending on who/where you find one

Can you please send me a link for those same parts

Very understandable of on how to tackle this job 🔥

How much did the kit cost for all those parts

Used first step workshop manual method, "remove wiper arm." I hope to never do coils and plugs again on that side but if I do, your way will get it on the highway. Thanks for sharing.

two by two hands of blue

I just did this and I used a grinder to shave the rivets, then drilled

My man, this is one of the most well laid out, concise, and accurate tutorials I’ve ever seen. I appreciate ya!

What's the ft.lb.?

Nice video. Great job

What's up with the tank? It looks very cool but is definitely not the original. Can someone tell me if it's from a dt125 or where you can get such a tank.

Will the plenum gasket cause lack of power to the engine? My truck runs good. But it feels like when I'm on the highway won't respond even with the gas pedal on the floor. It goes on the speed but slow