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Definitely doesn't have to with the products available these days!

@@MilmarBuildings Yep, and that's the point, we now have better methods and amazes me to still see people bury and rot wood.

It's always smart to protect your investments to last a lifetime and beyond!

That is possible, but also tough to balance and keep water drainage appropriate compared to Perma-Column or Post Protectors permanent solution.

Most of the buildings we build these days have some form of separation of wood contact to ground such as Perma-Column or Post Protectors. Much better option than the traditional treated post-in-ground method.

We definitely use lags and structural screws for our roof framing members, headers....etc. Nails are reserved for smaller wall framing members. Thanks your your input!

We have a number of options, either floating frost wall around perimeter or you can pour a traditional rodent wall footer and build with dry-set brackets off of that. Pros and cons to each method!

@@MilmarBuildings thanks

The old telephone poles is where "pole barns" got their name, but rotting is an issue with those. Fixing those is never easy, but you may be able to sister a support 3 ply laminated post in next to the rotting ones and attach with structural lags to support that all the way to the header. The digging won't be easy, but you can pour concrete around the base and tie the base together as well for a stronger connection. You could also pour new piers and use Perma-Column Dry-set brackets to place new posts.

You can hand tamp those, grade with machines..etc, but yes, they need to be set prior to concrete so there are no air pockets from the settling.

Especially if the stirrup has a 1" to 2" raise above floor level which stops moisture from rotting out the base of the pole., the stirrup footings I use dont have reo any more they have an extended shaft anywhere from 4" up to 18", 1 " to 2" pipe with a foot at the base and a 1/2" x 3" x 5" flat plate, you have to saw a groove at the base of the post and bolt the two together, this is all done to stop rot from water.

It's a solid option and very similar to option 2!

Best place to start that conversation is on our website at www.milmarbuildings.com

@@MilmarBuildings sweet! Yes your website is awesome, been checking it out. I’ll reach out via the website. Thank you.

Being aware of thermal expansion and contraction is important as well as regularly inspecting your roof screws, just like you would regularly inspect a shingle roof to watch out for any possible issues. Thanks for the tips!

For most people, the cheapest method of protection for posts is the Post Protector sleeve or even just wood if they are in highly drained soil, but with gutters in our area (snow areas) we always recommend adding snow bars to keep sliding ice from tearing off the gutters as well. Thanks for the input!

Fair point, but video was shot on the fly and I forgot the glasses. Next time! 👍

That would be a similar principle to the Post Protectors (option #4) but we have found the Post Protectors to be very quick and easy to install while maintaining a full separation of wood from ground contact. They also make a grade board protector to keep the grade board from contacting the dirt. Thanks for the info!

The jumbo nailers are beasts! Very cool to see where building tools and tech is going!

I agree with the Jumbo nailers. We just bought a Fasco 4” to 6-1/4”. As many nails as we run, it only makes sense to buy a couple of them and check production. Gonna miss driving them though 🤣

We have definitely heard that from people and it is the reason we always recommend separating wood from ground contact. Also, good idea to check your treating ratings for wood you are planning to make contact with the ground and make sure your drainage is properly set. Thanks for the input!

Correct, well drained dirt around the post is usually a better plan than concrete around post that can trap moisture and bacteria rot. You definitely want concrete underneath the posts though, to keep them from settling and throwing the building out of square. Thanks for the input!

Steel is a great option, which is why it is combined into the Perma-Column steel and concrete bases shown on here. For a lot of builders, wood framing is not only more cost efficient and accessible, but also, easier to work with in finishing out buildings, hence the need for high quality post frame foundation options that keep wood from contacting the ground. Thanks for your input!

Hey! We have definitely heard of this method, we prefer complete separation and the speed of install of Post Protectors or Perma-Column. Thanks for sharing that option!

The home portion is 30x30 and the shop wing is 40x80x16. Hope that helps!

Hey there! The posts themselves aren't the largest cost of the buildings we construct. Usually the metal siding and roof cost more. That being said, sometimes it does make more financial sense to go with metal frame buildings, mostly for larger than 80 foot spans or commercial buildings where higher ceiling are needed. Thanks for the input!

Ouch! There are definitely different permit costs based on location, even in the midwest from county to county.

Thank you for stopping by, glad it was helpful!

We love to answer questions! Shoot us a message at www.milmarbuildings.com

#1, #2 and #4 have no wood contact to ground, and we agree, it is best to separate that post from ground contact, even if it is treated well!

Hey, it's not for everyone, but for people looking for post frame foundation options, it's a good start! Thanks for the input!

Absolutely, as long as your piers are rated for the weight/shear...etc., you could bracket off the Sturdi-Wall bracket showed in this video and build from that.

That is a great question! Probably depends on depth of placement, footer, soil type...etc., but flooding would definitely be better to have a no-wood-to-ground contact for minor flooding and high water tables. Earthquakes are a whole different ballgame. Thankfully, in our building area in the Midwest, we have very few (and very small) earthquakes compared to the West Coast and other areas of the world.

That is an interesting method. I am guessing that the large depth of the base gavel and it being tamped tight could replicate concrete base, but I am not sure why you wouldn't just pour wet concrete for the footer to make sure? Not seeing how tamping gravel that deep in the ground would be easier than pouring concrete, but then again, we build in the Midwest, not the Canadian Prairies. I would always stick with local building code for permit sake. Gravel around posts is not a bad plan, it is clean, compactible and allows good drainage while locking in the post.

@@MilmarBuildings I’m north of the 55th° That means 8 feet deep. I have lots of sections of 14 inch diameter 1/8” wall steel pipe and an auger, The soil is mainly clay 1-2% river rock (500’ above a lake 1/4 mile away.) With straight gravel I’m debating whether that would be an ideal drainage or a disaster looking for a place to happen. Here screw piles are also permitted per code. but that’s high-tech for resistance torque. Which I can’t replicate with my backhoe auger set up. (With my 100 hp pump and motor it would be too easy to snap the screw piles clean off) And to get the right people would be 5 to $8,000 bill added to that build. I believe # 1 is my best choice. .317 yd^3 concrete per is cheap. How many you figure per side?.. @15 ft centres x10 piles.. it be 3yards+ or ~$550. (+?) For 20’x60’

@@FFLFFS Wow, that is intense depth! And yes, the full concrete poured piers are nice as long as you can drill that deep in your soil type. Number of piers for us would be based on number of support posts, and in our area, that is 8' on center. If you are in a higher snow load, it may be 8' or even 6' or 4', so check your local codes, but I wouldn't go any wider than 8' on center for sure.

@@MilmarBuildings Many thanks👍

Yes, some builders use a drilled hole for that, or a partial tube at the top if the top of the hole is collapsing. You can also place those into poured footer walls that are in forms.