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@@nikola23gr … no that was not the case. This car had a bad head gasket. It only drove across the street bcs it had been sitting long enough that the coolant in those cylinders slowly dripped into the oil pan so there was no coolant present when it was cranked for the first time in weeks.

@@bryanbaesa7006 … wow glad ppl are able to gain from this method.

@@duhduhlovo1670 …. I know bro I feel the same lol. I just had to leave it in bcs I know a lot of ppl feel the same way. Thx.

@@theoxygen876 …. Hey what’s up, yes I do have the key cylinder still I use it to be able to lock the wheel but if I try to start the car with the key, it will not work. The button starts the engine only, the key shuts it off and locks the wheel. I have a kill switch installed with this. I did it all on paper first. No kits. More reliable and less conspicuous bcs it’s not advertised on online stores. Someone asked me to show how I did the wiring, I’m still going to make a new vid with the layouts and parts. I just need a bit to do other stuff but I will be back soon with it. I’m about to upload a new video in a few hours, maybe tomorrow morning, but it’s about the custom cluster I made for the integra and I have a red COB led string inside of the cluster lense that turns red when vtec is activated. Should be up tonight or tmro morning.

@@elmerfrejoles98 …… thank you very much! We have family in the Philippines I herded about it recently.

@@bryanhernandez3754 …. Hey! Thanks I thought you’d never ask! I’m totally down! Idk if I’ve shown the schematic I drew out in any of the vids but I know I have photos of it and the install. I’m actually right now working on a red cob led that lights my entire cluster RED when vtec comes on so you can see some previews of that in the shorts, until I make the full video. Thank you for bringing this up because I learned something from it and I’d love to share it in another full video! I’ll try to see if I can share the schematic photo in a short and share the link here for you… but I will make a full video on it now that I have a new phone with 5 times the space, I ran out so I been slow but I’m back!

@@bryanhernandez3754 …. Hi Bryan I’ll make you a new video with the relay and schematics. For now this was all I could find. I shared thy link for the button in other shorts, get that and buy a relay strong enough for a starter motor, some come as a starter relay kit so the wires it comes with will help you for the mean time if your not too much into wire shopping. I will return soon with a vid. You can also chat with me in private on my inst…. Same name as here. I’m Gabe btw.ruclips.net/user/shortsUFvan1GJ1Bs?si=orMEkfsGdPpvU7Pg

@@DirkOz ….. let me know if you like how it came straight out the paint booth?

@@alfonsoternera9934 ….. I know I really need to work on that. My rc channel is PG13 but it’s hard not to when it’s work but I know I need to. Thanks😁

@@Saul-ps9fu ….. hi and thank you. My pleasure to answer. So water inside the cooling system comes in contact with MOSTLY aluminum, except for maybe the metal thermostat and the Impeller on the water pump so it’s not that much of a rust thing but there’s another problem.. Because the chassis of the vehicle is an active ground to the positive, the water will also experience voltage passing through it and that’s called electrolysis. I’ve never myself flushed a cooling system but that’s what it’s called. Idk if the same flush fixes electrolysis damage but you can look into what radiator flushes there are and ALSO take in consideration about the electrolysis and see if there are different types of flushes. I’ll be better if you want to come back with other info.

@@porschastokes7990 ….ok ima stay up to answer this.. take the air filter ave smack it hard against the wall to see if ANY water comes off it. The car can still turn on without a filter but only “if you had to test something”… just be sure all the filter components are reassembled again for the test.! Water in oil requires gobs of water into air intake in order to HYDRO-LOCK the cylinder and those cases would be a total loss if it does not get treated with 12-24 hrs where steel parts will rust and seize. But you made it home so that’s a good thing. As long as the engine has reached and is at operating temperatures of about 190-200°f. So any condensation remaining from steam that did NOT make it out of the exhaust is prone to wet spark plugs which cannot spark and arc if it’s wet. It will short itself on the spot. So pull out 1 plug and hit it with compressed are to see if ANY moisture or dampness appears. You can also buy a can of “Starter fluid” from an auto store… it’s in a can and has pressure to blast out water and debris. It ALSO is combustible, more than fuel, so after cleaning and drying your spark plugs, zap a sprits of this into each spark plug hole and be sure in goes into it and into the piston chamber. With these two steps, it is great conditions for both a clean spark and the starter fluid to AGGREGATE there will be spark and a combustion waiting to happen. Tell me what year make and model…. These details can change a few things but I’m here. You can also chat with me on my Instagram. Same as this Chanel name.

@@marksierra6066 …. I’m in Biscayne park so I know how it is. Every time rain comes, this video blows up again. It’s never going to stop getting views lol🙏 but I’m so glad this has been so useful because MOST videos we put effort into just don’t blow up like that but then when it’s a real life situation as imperfect as it is, ppl can relate. I wouldn’t say changing the oil is a must unless you see moisture in the oil or discoloration, or if too much time has passed. TIP: if you’re going to rotate the engine after vacuuming out water, I’m imagining it’s to push out residual water? My thoughts are the water that was or might still be present is not a good lubrication for piston ring to wall friction so if you left your gas on, you’ll have some type of lubrication/protection but then that might cause a difficult start condition. Your inline 6 will have all the spark plugs on one side of the block … if you can manage to vacuum out water, you might be able to spray ENGINE STARTER in the cylinders. Even if you MUST crank the engine to extract the water because of such tight spaces in the engine bay, that’s fine bcs water will come out easier than if the spark plug holes were on the top, water will have to fight gravity. But my point is if you spray engine starter into the cylinders AFTER pulling water, you can dry and install the plugs and the solution will help assure the engine cranks up right away and it’s safe for the rest of the water to come out as steam. Idk if you’re actually driving the bmw right now but if it swallowed water in the past but is driving now, it should def have new oil and should get a tuneup.

@@marksierra6066 …. And, if it’s been sitting with water since it suckered up water, oof… just be sure the engine rotates bcs things rust and can lock up the engine. It only took a couple days for my 3 series to seize up and it was just an internal coolant leak. Car went bye bye.

If I do this do I have to take out my fuel injector fuse out ? Or no?

@@D3Void952 .. no

@@jeffcoleman7859 …. I can see your comment just fine without the caps but if you have read the comments here on this video you’d know it’s already been said many times and I’ve explained multiple reasons supporting the method so I’m not going to keep repeating the same thing.

@@AutoBodyEverything on my 2001 daewoo lanos I went through water and I pulled my plugs and tried to crank it water didn’t shoot out I had to do this what all should I do to fix it I’m 21 I’m struggling getting me and my fiancé to work I also got all the water out of the spark plug wells do I just change oil and put plugs back in and start it and see if it turns over bc the lights in the whole car dim and I hear a click sound

It’s been asked in the comments a few times and I’ve responded with reasons. Not every car is going to start right up and other ppls cars may not run as reliable so when those clearances for piston rings and seals are larger than what try should be due to high mileage, you’ll just create a situation where water will fall past the piston rings and down into the oil pan. Water will get in between the valve stem seal and cause friction and loss of lubrication. Water gets in the cam shafts, your going to have rust within 24 hours. Water is not easy to remove from oil. It will also cause the piston rings to wetsand against the cylinder walls and cause the factory honing to ware out prematurely. Mechanics to what they need to do in order to keep business lucrative and meat deadlines, but when private owners seek for answers on RUclips because they want to do things then selfs, they don’t mind putting in the extra work because it gives them satisfaction and a piece of mind.

You don’t have to do it BEFORE you vacuum the water, you can do everything with the same oil and once you’re done and the car runs, you can replace the oil and oil filter. I was just kinda in a rush in the video. In some cases, the water WILL end up in the oil pan because water does not ignite, so when the piston goes up to compress the air, the water gets forced down passed the piston rings and falls to the oil pan because water does not compress like air does and the water CANNOT evacuate the engine until the exhaust valves open up when the piston changes direction and goes back up. You can tell if you have water in your oil by looking at the dip stick and notice if you have any oil separation or condensation. It is raining like CRAZZZZY right now in south Florida, actually all of Florida and there are cars broken down left and right. We are in like 3 feet of water. Good luck with your situation, I’m here if you have more questions.

@AutoBodyEverything Yeah I'm in Sarasota and my car broke down in the flood last night, that's why I'm here. I gave up on trying to fix it myself and had it towed to a shop, they're gonna get back to me tomorrow. Ngl it might be totaled I tried to start it a few times after it stalled and the check engine light came on

If it came in with rain water then it will yes because it’s not like carbon deposited. If it’s debris from an outside source yes it will come right out. But if your engine has engine coolant in the piston chambers then you have a bad head gasket. Removing water will help allow the car to start, but if the head gasket is compromised, then coolant will keep entering the piston chamber untill the engine is fixed. If you want to remove carbon deposits, there are sprays and additives you can use to slowly remove carbon deposits over time. Some people say that water and or ethanol injections help do a very good job of steam cleaning the engine internal parts very well! It does it best at high rpm with the engine fully warmed up. They inject the water and or ethanol into the throttle body. Sometimes they are also hole inlets on the air intake manifold.

Not if it’s already perfectly aligned, but if it needs it and you’re constantly making changes, then it’ll just need another alignment. If the wheels go straight and the steering well is straight and it does not pull to the sides when accelerating or when stopping and the tires are wearing out evenly… what’s so bad about it.

😝 yea there is a lot of back and forth until you don’t notice anything anymore. It’s too soon to get a legit alignment bcs I’m constantly working on all areas of my car and any alignment that I get will be a loss of money the moment I have to make more chances. Anyone who is a 40 hr mechanic today SURELY had the ambition to “play” mechanic.

@@AutoBodyEverything Maybe get a good car and stop playing amateur engineer, rice-a-roni.

If a customer is paying for services they expect the mechanic to do what they can’t.

Two options… #1., best trick ever is you floor your gas pedal ALL THE WAY to the floor as you crank your engine. This will turn off your injectors and spark plugs until you let off the gas fully. Do this and listen to the engine as it makes its “ticking” sound… after about 6 seconds of letting the engine crank you will hear the noise quiet down once oil reaches the phaser gear. At that point you can let off the gas and re-crank your engine as you normally would and it will start quietly and healthy with no rattle or wear & tear. #2, if you do a timing chain kit, be SURE you buy the OEM phaser gear for the intake cam shaft. The timing kits only bring solid gears and not the phaser. There’s also two banjo style washers/seals that go onto the cam gear cover and it will slide inside the intake phaser gear when you finish the job and put the cam cover on lastly. They’re made of some type of composite hard plastic and must be oem.

@@AutoBodyEverything thanks for the reply unfortunately my 02 spec v doesn’t have flood mode so the pedal method doesn’t work. Right now I’m in the works of making a new timing chain tension design I saw yours and I’m going to improve the design and mass produce it for our community.

@@NipponSpeedWorks …. You could unplug the fuel injector harness plug, worst case you unplug all your spark plug coils (easy) but you’ll get some extra fuel upon start. And yessss…. A sloppy chain will skip tooth. It’s possible with more cars than not. Remember this ext tip., when you take off the cam cover or just the whole timing cover, a new factory phaser gear is the most critical part! Watch my vid where I explain and show why it fails and the guts. There are two very important seals that go ONTO the cam cover plate and when the cover goes back on, the seals end up holding the oil psi inside of the phaser gear from leaking out! The seals seem to be made of a graphite compound and it overlaps kind of like a key chain ring. There’s two of these used for the cam cover that seal the phaser.

@@AutoBodyEverything I’ve just disconnected my fuel injector fuse and build pressure till the oil light turns off. Has no issues or sounds yet with this method. The injector fuse is right next to the fuel pump fuse

lol not at all

In the race scene demographic accidents happen all the time and I’ve seen cars ripped in half from either racing or doing data log pulls. Although a racing steering wheel will be more desirable, I don’t have 4 point straps or any roll cages so keeping the stock steering wheel for now is the only added safety measure I have in the event of a collision or accident. Had me rolling laughing with the cover lol but the steering wheel could use it, it’s old.

What ever 👌

I did not, I sanded the solid stand wires

I used tin on my tips

Shoe strap bolt

I did it’s just not a good video. I didn’t want to fill the entire wire because then it won’t collapse and it will keep coming loose. I only intended to solder the tip where the hex nut crimps it down. Other wise the wires just get sheered off as you tighten it. They were high gauge strand wires and it would be impossible to crimp.

@@AutoBodyEverything I have 25 years experience with all different sizes and types of wire. Sometimes it's easier to use a small torch to heat that gauge of wire. Use solder with flux and a small percentage of silver all in one. Silver will prevent corrosion. And let the solder suck itself into the wire. Go to, RUclips university and see the proper processes. You are making an effort most tech's would bypass. Blessings 🙏

@@chrispeterson8237 …. Nobody saw the tub of flux in the video😝. But yes the propane torch will do the job just like it’s used in copper plumbing and you’re right about the silver for strength and corrosion resistance so thank you for adding that🫡.. i know he heavy gauge wire still has room to hold more solder but I’ve made the mistake of fully saturating the ends of a wire and later had troubles when tightening down the soldered tip in the sockets of an amplifier. The soldered end was so dense and solid that the hex screws could not crush the soldered copper wire and it would always vibrate loose and fall out. However with lighter gauged strand wires, those I’ve found to be easier to crush or crimp after solder. In respect to the electricians and experienced techs, I believe a (part 2) is in order 😄👏

@@AutoBodyEverything this is the way

It’s a short it was too impractical trying to fit all the information but I did.

…. 🤣 Sure sounds like a King of The Hill episode🍻🥩

… not sure I’m following unless it’s a joke 🤔,but it’s not an ecu problem or check engine light.., but actual fluids in the position chambers that made its way from the radiator fluid passage ways, past the head gasket, and into the piston cylinders aka combustion chambers. This happens because the distance between the radiator fluid passage ways and combustion chambers are very close together by just millimeters apart and it’s the head gasket’s job to keep everything sealed.. So when a car engine overheats again and again and reaches too high of temperatures too many times over, the engine block and heads will warp and the only thing keeping things held together is the head gasket. So all it takes is a small portion of the head gasket to fail. This causes oils to go where it should not be, and allows radiator coolant to go into places it never should. So when coolant or water seeps into the piston cylinders, it comes out the exhaust as white smoke because the coolant “or water” gets mixed with the gasoline as it ignites and comes out as steam like a steam engine. That’s what had happened to this car and owner knew nothing about cars. In the event your engine is perfectly healthy but you accidentally drive through deep water due to rain floods, your car will stall due to water in the engine just like this car… EXCEPT, the water can be vacuumed out and you’re car will return back to normal. I would only suggest doing an oil change because some amount of water will make its way past the pistons and into the oil pan which is NOT a good thing but if you remove the spark plugs so that you can vacuum out the water from the engine and change the oil, your car will be fine and you’ll save thousands.

That’s about a years worth of steam and vapors that rise up to the valve cover. From the factory, all vehicles have a PCV valve (one way valve) with a hose that goes STRAIGHT back into the air intake throttle body. It’s meant to keep the fumes from going into the atmosphere, but look at the reality of it. If I had not made an oil catch can for the valve cover, all that would be going right back into the piston chambers. That’s why the insides of engines are always so black and gunky! Racers bypass that crap and install a catch can. You get WAYYYYY better gas miles too because the oxygen going into the piston chambers is not contaminated with the vapors from the valve cover ventilation.

@@AutoBodyEverything smart move yo

It crossed my mind😃… thnx btw 🙏

That was my immediate thought but the drains are clean and the moon roof has a good seal. I found TWO areas where water was getting in! One leak was water from the wiper drain gutter that had a spot weld that was starting to go because it had no paint on it from the factory, and the other leak was rain water draining through the sub frame, like it should, but it intersected with a factory wire harness and the water made its way into the plastic wire loom and the water slid alllll the way along the tube like a slide and the water was exiting where the wire loom stopped at the inside of the driver side cabin. It was leaking past the electrical tape where the wire loom stoped so it was extremely difficult looking for a “water trail” that wasn’t visible in plain sight. That spot weld leak was also a b%#+ to find but I did make content on both of them.