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It's odd that it doesn't have a small led, so you can find it 🤔

That's great that they sent that to you! I don't know if I'd drop 60 bones for it, even if I had a pedal board, or played in the dark with one. But, interesting idea, and having an extra usb plug nearby is never a bad thing. Great review, Ted! Cheers!

yeppers

tuners fit, as u do wif ur guitars to replace existing ones

Nice pedal, Ted! You should click the "promotional considerations" button as this unit was sent free for you to review. If there was a dimmer switch on this for more lighting control, it would bring it to a higher level of utility. Sweet demo for a cool idea!

Man that's crazy bright. Almost too much Light but not a bad idea. When I play our band lights are on as are the dance floor lights so I have never not been able to see my board. My bass player has a small LED strip under the back edge of his board and it's always on as soon as he plugs his board in. It's a nice green glow from underneath so it's not intensively bright but it does the job 🙂

60?! WTF happened to us?

I prefer step by step, longer vids, especially for us newbies

oops 4got, I got me fesley guitar kit, same as da one u put 2gether

howdy-hi, once again groovy, when buying tuners, how do u know which ones??? GBU n family

That neck is unique looking, I like it, too! Thanks for sharing, Ted! Cheers!

Looking forward to seeing this!

Here in Canada that guitar would be worth 170$ all day long. I can't buy a finished body for much less than 150$. Now I'm talking CAD dollars... The only guitar I have purchased under 200 cad was the recent leo jaymz which was junk before a complete overhaul, and an ammoon brand guitar also Junk which needed a complete overhaul! So anything with a nice body, straight string alignment, and a roasted neck for 170$ is definitely a good buy here anyway! Hahaha You by 3 packs for $12? So here a 3 pack of cheap strings would be $25! Crazy! Yes as Mike pointed out, you can shim a nut. However, did you check the bass side height at the 1st fret? If that is high, maybe you can reduce the bass side as opposed to shimming the treble side 🤔

You know Ted, the more I look at that fretboard the more it reminds me of one those vinyl covered seats at a diner. Looking forward to your shootout.

Just bought a Squire CV 50's Tele in Butterscotch from Long & McQuade here in Canada. Love it, but here were the flaws. The tuner on the 5th string is really hard. The fret ends on the bottom E string are sharp and the string can get stuck under the ends. ( trying to fix that issue with filing) And the saddle plate ashtray was mounted a little crooked so you could see the pickup cut out on the outside of it looking down at the guitar. I have ordered the Gotoh brass saddles and a set of vintage Gotoh tuners. She weights 8.7Lbs.

Temu is a SCAM!

Yes you can shim a nut slot. I've done it a few times when I've gotten those taller plastic nuts. I've cut a strip of an old credit card that has white ends to match the nut. After some trial fitting, (nut hight and string slots adjustments done) I CA glue the plastic strip in the bottom of the slot. Then glue the nut on top. Alternately, wood is possible also. I've used flat bamboo and thin maple strips. I've gotten guitars with various sizes and shapes of wood shims that I keep. Like that shim you found under the neck. You can use a thin blade xacto knife and carefully cut 2 strips the width of the nut slot. Use wood glue to seat them at the slot bottom and wait for it to cure at least 3 hrs. Then glue the nut in the slot, but again after the string adjustments have been done. I use wood glue on fender style guitar nuts as preference but CA glue on Gibson nuts. Depending on the color of the wood shim vs the neck color, I use various methods to color match the neck as close as I can. I have various old cans of stain, also those color stain markers used to repair scratches on furniture work. The ends of the shim are small so not much is needed to mask it.

In the words of a famous youtuber, "You do you!"

You channel is terrific and you are amazing

I have an amazon file, and I've used it. But after seeing J-Man do a vid about the Music Nomad file, I've refrained from using the generic file until I can get one. Luckily, I haven't had a need for one lately. Although my luck may change soon on that front... I stopped using steel wool for polishing and have been using some micro mesh pads - time consuming process, but I like the job they do. I use Flitz when I do the dremel polishing. Cheers, Ted!

It's good to hear you talk guitars and life. The neck and inlays look nice - Maybe you can black out the headstock? You did a great job on that SG! Cheers, man!

I was having an issue with chatter marks when crowning with my cheaper files, so I recently bought a music nomad s-file and it made a world of difference, and saves a lot of time! Is that neck natural or does it have a poly finish? If it's poly the wood is sealed and oil won't penetrate. A quick coat of feed and wax does work great! Thanks for the journey Ted!

I only use product: Brasso on really gross frets that are gunky. Otherwise, it's fret erasers from 180 to 400 to 1000 and lastly 0000 steel wool going up and down on each fret. Each time, my frets have looked great! When I do this I only tape up the pickups (or cover the holes in a semi hollow body). After using a fine brush to get rid of any tiny debris, I oil the fretboard too. Nice work!!

You're using the steel wool wrong. When you get to steel wool you have to go longitudinally with the frets to make them shine up and take off the green you did with the sandpaper you have to do it that way otherwise you're still putting grain on the frets even though it's finer and you'll still feel your strings grinding on it when you bend.

I just bought a Fret Guru Dagger 2.0 and I’m liking it. I used to use a 3 sided Stew Mac safety file but it’s tedious and hard to get the frets uniform. I polish with fret erasers.

My leo jamyz came with electronic issues from Amazon.. i wont buy guitars from amazon anymore... I think seller sell thier returns and rejects on Amazon

So the question is, did you get a good one or a bad one haha... The next person could get one with perfectly level frets clean fret board etc.... Or they could receive one much worse than the one you got. At that price point I would think that the consistency from one to the other would be, well, inconsistent hahaha. I would not remove the paint from the headstock. It may not be perfect, but it's sealed and that is ultimately what you want! Guyker makes radiused aluminium sanding blocks. I have 2 home. Awesome for leveling and for getting that radius perfect from one end of the neck to the other. I'll often use the 12 beam to the 12 fret then use the 14 for the last 10. Instant compound radius hahaha! And just FYI, you don't have to tape the board when leveling... The leveling beam and the crowning file (if it's a good one) will never touch the board. I only cover the board for polishing. But you do you! 😃

Pretty long winded 10 minutes talking about himself. Time I will never get back. Review the guitar and enough of your life story. I don't know his blood type but I am pretty sure it's in another video. Play the fucking guitar.

I bought a Harley Benton TE20HH at the same time as my HB35Plus. While the 35Plus was perfect out of the box (and I mean that!) the TE20HH had a bowed neck and fret sprout up and down both sides of the guitar, pretty much from top to bottom. So, I got one of those emery block sponge thingies and did the 45 degree angle with it and went up and down the fretboard for about ten minutes on each side. Worked like a charm. As an aside about Temu ads, I don't know if you can set the app for children's eyes, if you know what I mean. I had a look around their site a few times and came away unimpressed. Sure, there are useful products, but the site reminds of those overstock warehouses filled with stuff no one wants for cheap. Rock on, Ted!

I told you Jack that that was a pain touch up on the headstock and if you took it off you were going to find a crack or bare wood. If you send off the white on the headstock you'll get to bare wood and you'll need to seal that with either Pauly or some wipe on poly or something that will seal that wood so that it doesn't absorb moisture from humidity and the like and possibly affect your tuning holes and or crack in the headstock. I know you live in a humid climate down there in Houston you get a lot of rain. On some guitars that I've had specifically issues with the higher frets of beyond 12 I have done the fall away a couple of times but most often if I just level them all it works out fine and I don't have any issues. That unflat neck pocket is going to be your nemesis. That was really shoty of them to put that balancing shim on the lower side instead of fixing the pocket. I've had issues like that on even more expensive guitars than those. I always include the first threat on my fretboards in the leveling process. Zero fret is right next to the nut. That neck does not have a zero thread it has a first fret. Now because you can't check the height of the first fret in relation to the other frets I always color the top to make sure my sanding beam either is taking the meat off equal with the other ones or it isn't. And after all of the threats two to 21 or 22 are level I use my rocker and run it up the frets towards number one and if it clicks or stops that means fret one is still higher than numbers two and three and needs to be fixed otherwise when you cut your nut for the right action over the first threat it will be too high for the rest of the frets and will still go out of tune when you play. It will also affect the action you set where the neck meets the body fret which is usually on a strat around number 17. I usually like to set my action height there at 3 or 4/ 64th's maximum. But to do that that first fret with the string action from your nut must be done first as jman has pointed out in his t r a i n

Not crazy - it's good for a man to know where NOT to go.

In my viewing, I'm at 2:46, so I haven't heard you discuss tuners, but I would consider using a set of staggered tuners instead of a second string tree. This might be particularly good if those stock tuners need replacing. Two birds with one rock.😎 Also, I should throw in that the new tuners could lock -- THREE birds!😃

This is just one sample. Are their more $ guitars built better than mexican strats?

Changing the nut angle will make zero difference to the break angle of the string to the tuning post, zero. If the break angle bothers you, then use a second string tree, but honestly, at the tension the string reaches when tuned, you'll notice zero difference either way, in fact, you could be introducing another point of tuning instability by adding a 2nd tree. FYI: Fender Squiers have only a single string tree for the B-E strings, there's no problems what-so-ever.

looks like a nicer build then the glarry strat i had. mine was also white for a little while but it had a black pickguard but that guitar went thru many iterations. mine was only SSS tho when i got it but the body had the cavity for HSH like yours. the trem cavity covers on cheaper guitars usually aren't made of pickguard material either from my experience. i guess it saves them money? lol. even my Kramer pacer had something similar but i usually just remove them or replace all the covers with custom cut acrylic for fun and i think it looks cool because its see thru. id like to try to order come of the transparent colored acrylic sheets from amazon to try that out sometime as well as carbon fiber sheets but those can be pricey. The last Temu guitar review i watched, the guy said that saddles were made of PLASTIC! lol. that's crazy. i think it was more of an Ibanez copy though. he said it was really bad too. he had also done a 2nd video where he put Seymour Duncan's in it, tuners, new trem and all new electronics knowing it wasn't worth it but i believe he just did it to make a video and probably just to experiment and have fun but he said it still wasn't worth it as he had almost $500 or more into a crappy $100 guitar. i say crappy cus he said the neck just wasn't very good. best of luck man and have fun!

I'm getting to a point where I really don't like buffing compound! 🤣Awesome walkthrough, Ted! I look forward to the next one! But slow down! I'm spending too much time watching you instead of filming! 😉 Cheers, man, keep up the good work!

Seems like a good overall platform to work with! And black would look good on white, just saying hahaha!

You know you have to bore those holes out. And you know you're going to have to send that pocket flat

Donner Thinline Teles are $99 w/the coupon from the Amazonian right now, very worth it, give one a try.

Before I started learning how to setup my own guitars, I was (in some way) disappointed with all the guitars I bought, either in store or online, as none were setup properly (even the big name brands). I believe it's key to have someone do some setup on any new guitar. The only exception, in my experience, has been my Tease guitars - as they are setup before they ship. Good stuff, Ted! Cheers!

When I decided to play in December 2020, I made the rounds of 4 electric guitar shops in my area. As a lefty, I'm sure you know how this went. Because of high demand at the time, all 4 shops had a grand total of 1 guitar. So, yeah, with choice like that you take it and go. What a piece of utter unstable tuning garbage, even after locking down the trem and going on RUclips to find help. Look at the guitar the wrong way and your G chord warbled into something else. Undeterred, I decided used was the way to go. A short time later, February of 2021, I had my Epiphone LP Standard in my hands with a little Marshall amp for $50 less than the piece of crap. Used can mean a well set up guitar already and save you aggravation. Mind you, I went on a Harley Benton buying spree later on!

What J-man said

A quick setup tip for anyone buying an unfamiliar guitar: Many guitars for sale sit around for months or longer as they wait to be bought and sold. During that time, they're not being played. That means that the only things that can move have to move by themselves, and there's only one thing on an unplayed guitar that can move by itself, and that's the neck. This is good news, because that means that if the player has or gets the knowledge and simple tool needed to make the guitar's neck straight, doing so will take the guitar a long way toward playing readiness -- maybe all the way -- in just that one step. Worth trying, and the the necessary notched straight edge tool is not only easy to find, but can also be made at home from a yardstick. Even using eyes and ears can help to dial the action back in! Move the truss rod a very little in one direction while making note of how much, retune and noodle. If the problem you're fixing is worse, go in the other direction by double the previous amount -- half of that effort takes you back to where you were, the rest moves you forward toward your goal. Retune, noodle, evaluate and learn. Go slow, use your ears even if you have gear, and you will lose your fear of your guitar even as you gain full mastery of it. Among other things, setups contribute to TONE.

Have someone with you trust and play guitar with you to go through the guitar and bass not a employee. Or ask someone in the store playing one to ask questions. Last resort is a employee that would take time and not rush you to buy 1 someone who spends time that is already educated on guitars or bass. In reality a acoustical guitar should be your 1st guitar. Never go in blind you will be disappointed on it..

Great info. Unfortunately here In Canada, you will not find a 150$ guitar in a music store. 🙁 If I could, I'd just buy it there as our stores here have a 30 day refund and or exchange policy, same as Amazon. My issue here is our music stores only sell Big brands and there budget lines: Gibson - Epiphone, Fender - Squire, Yamaha, Music Man - Sterling, Ibanez, Jackson etc... And those names come with prices that in my opinion do not reflect the product you're getting. If you were to have no print at all on the head stock, I would guarantee people would think twice before dropping 700$ on a squire because it says by Fender on it. And yeah here, just a CV chinese made squire will run you that much. 😔 If they were priced correctly, I would never have bought a guitar on line. I'd be happy modding my Squires etc... But financially it doesn't make sense to go that route when you know you're gonna be modding a guitar!😮

Hey brother, great stuff and thanks for the shout out. Unfortunately areas like mine (we are very rural) don't have physical music stores anymore. The only one near me closed years ago. Great tips!

howdy-hi, much needed n great info, GBU n family

It definitely was another company returned before Temu. That's why the strings were nasty. It's a 16 without the finish on the neck ted. Company's barley makes a 17. It's a cover up Crack. Looks like the fingerboard was lifting there a shadow between them. They probably glued it. But hey like you said 120$ what do you expect. You can always put a tease neck on it if needed if it bothers you with the imperfections tease necks a flawless. Buy a stringtree bar. Or send it back..But that's my thoughts not suggesting.

Great to see you working on a guitar! It's always fun to hear you talk through the process. Have a great weekend, sir! Cheers, Ted!