Видео

@@bullrunfast hoa life 😔

@@bobbys.3046 thank you 🙏

@@bobbys.3046 is worth it

@@randyriley3860 geez that’s pricey. I believe this is the cheaper way and I don’t see any leaks in my oil changes so far

Spinning the bottom perch when locked, will lower or raise it depending which one you are doing. Adjusting the top perch where the spring is, will adjust preload if its loose / unlocked. If its locked you shouldnt spin it and just focus on the bottom perch.

@@Kiss__Kiss appreciate it 🙏. Liking the lighting so far, very bright.

@@revcircle I bet. Sounds like I need to do the same, to my garage lol

@@Kiss__Kiss If you need better lighting, black friday/cyber monday is coming up. Fair warning, it's crazy bright, I like it but for some folks, it's blinding. The brand I got only has one light setting, but if I were to go back, might have gotten ones that were dimmable which some have. But I can't complain as the price point of this one was a better deal during prime day. The good part is I can work on cars in the night now. 😃

@@revcircle No, I am 100% with you on the brightest setting. Besides, I am almost 60 and my eyes aren't what they used to be lol Appreciate the black Friday/cyber Monday reminder.

@@LAAO369 you’re very welcome 👍 glad the video helped

Thanks!

Super glad it was educational and helpful for you

yes, I used the red part to secure them using a crimp tool. If its not provided like this one, for other wiring jobs, I used either use heat shrink wire connectors, sometimes I used Self-Stripping Splice Electrical Wire Terminals.

I was using a T-Tap connector in this video, see: amzn.to/4eJCP6A, I like this cause it's easy to test and disconnect, however, most of the time heat shrink button connectors when i am permanently trying to secure a wire: amzn.to/419fW9c

Generally good practice to unplugg the car battery while you are doing it, unless you testing it, I wanted to test the video feed, at which point, I was okay with plug it back in. Then disconnected it when i was working on wiring again,

You're very welcome. Thanks for watching and the support

@@lbcdc2itr of course, and thank you for watching and the support.

@@alan_dc5 2003 RSX Type S, they are buddy club ones from evasive motors.

@@kaybevang536 imo, its a tight space and aligning the tool is a bit tough even off it. Another challenge is the axle, its right above with only a few inches of free play so you either have to swing it out and hope you have right angle or remove that completely which is a feat in itself. I replaced my axles but if someone wasn’t planning on it, it’s more things to work around. But I have no doubt someone’s done it before, just more tough.

@@steve1hoe thanks for watching and the support 👍👍

@ these are 62As. Yeah, they don’t make the front one, not many performance mount ones do. So I had a torn front motor mount too discovered in one of my other videos, check it out if you got time, for that one I changed it with a new OEM one and added energy suspension bushing mount inserts to reinforce it. You can also buy a hardened rubber one from HardRace to complement it with Ha Sport or Vibratechnics. I started out replacing my old mounts with OEM ones, then went back and swapped it with Ha Sport ones individually, but I mostly plan to improve the motor slowly and wanted to put less strain on my dc header. It depends on how much power you want and the type of driving. Since you do AutoX, you might want that performance by Ha sport, but if you have concerns about smooth ride and heavy idle vibration, that’s where vibratechnics might come into consideration. Tradeoffs to both. These 62A have settled down and I’m okay with it, my passengers notice the vibration at a stop light tho. Not as stiff as the other ha sport grades.

@@revcircle oh sweet man, yea I think the hasports will do honestly. Even though this is my daily I do like to do some autox events n plan to take it to the track some day so probably be best just to stick with something that’ll support the engine under heavy load. Plan on keeping it stock-ish for a while so power won’t be a problem for the mounts. But I appreciate the suggestion!

@@DC5_Jordan Good luck changing out the mounts. The passenger one is a critical one. Don't get me wrong, I think Vibratechnics are good, I keep hearing amazing things, I just haven't tried it and decided to go HA sport after thinking about where I plan to go. For the front motor mount, I did a quick search for yah, from what I see HardRace has two versions, a street version ($115) and another one that costs a 20 bucks more at (135). I assume it's stiffer and the street version is stock rubber. Then Acura Parts warehouse is $170 at today's pricing. Links here: hardraceusa.com/collections/rsx-02-06/products/hardrace-front-engine-mount-street-manual-trans-02-06-rsx-dc5-02-05-civic-si-ep3, hardraceusa.com/collections/rsx-02-06/products/hardrace-front-engine-mount-manual-trans-02-06-rsx-dc5-02-05-civic-si-ep3, www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~stopper~fr~engine~50840-s6m-010.html?vin=&make=Acura&model=RSX&year=2003&submodel=&extra1=3%20Door%20TYPE-S&extra2=KA%206MT&filter=()

@@steve1hoe I made a full long form video here which goes through the tools and how I installed it: ruclips.net/video/h2hkBDwA9fo/видео.htmlsi=5tH2AiwoGGtiw2Sa

@ thanks,I’ll watch it on my lunch,can’t wait.

@ awesome, thanks for the support

For the 2003 Acura RSX Type S (applies for the 2002-2004), the OEM part # for the donut gasket connecting the header to the cat is 18229-S6M-A51. There is an amazon link here, but it's cheaper on Acura Parts Warehouse: amzn.to/4eKRkal

Here's the Acura Parts Warehouse link: www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~gasket~ex~flexible~18229-s6m-a51.html?vin=&make=Acura&model=RSX&year=2003&submodel=&extra1=3%20Door%20TYPE-S&extra2=KA%206MT&filter=()

@@papi_chulo9054 I had no codes after this and didn’t need to tune anything. You can do an idle relearn procedure if you wanted to if you had a high idle

@@revcirclei appreciate the response! Finally found my idle issue due to this valve.

@ glad you found the issue and that my video helped. Thanks for watching and the support

Good tips for others that come here. Sounds like we had mostly similar ideas on installing. Did you see my video after the install or did you use it for it?

@@revcircle Watched your video prior to tackling the Job from Hades! Would like to send my image of my custom rubber mallet with sock cover, if possible. A helper on this job would be a time saver and the key to a tight fit, aside from a straight aim and hit with the mallet, taps are better than strikes, is to center the cut-out portions of Subaru guard locating curves and getting either top or bottom started and working your way, tapping as you go, to the other end. But if you have trouble with a particular strip of guard, you may have to use needle-nose pliers, gently, to reclose guard's gap to get a tight fit. Only in spot but will make big difference if you are struggling.

18 lbf·ft for a type S. This is from the spec doc: IFR7G11KS (NGK), SK22PR-M11S (DENSO): 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 lbf·ft)

@@phucle5172you’ll be able to lift the front on a 2 ton but you’ll have to reach far under to access that center jack point. The other challenge is the max lift height, the green one goes 13 in 3/8. There are better ones that go higher but probably more like 2.5 or 3 tons. Green one is more of a low profile one. If you have jack stands that have a smaller min height, it might be better, you’ll need to find some that are less than 11 inch so you can slide the jack stands on the sides.

It’s the same thing. Plural vs singular.

Different location for the 05-06 type S. It's more towards the front of the transmission. Procedure is similar tho, see this diagram: www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~pick~up~assy~matsushita~28820-pwr-013.html?vin=&make=Acura&model=RSX&year=2006&submodel=&extra1=3%20Door%20TYPE-S&extra2=KA%206MT&filter=()

@@jwcivic it still works, just less efficient and needs adjustment

@@jwcivic mostly good, I’d say it’s on the stiff side, particularly the rear cause it’s 12 rear, but the handling is corners is perfect. Roads are terrible in NorCal with the potholes so you definitely feel it, but loving it. I think I could have been a lil bit softer like 10k rear and 7-8k front but maybe next time when I do a rebuilt

You're welcome 👍. So I've been running it for the last month and it's saved my bumper a few times weird inclines.

I got lucky and got it before it discontinued and the prices went up.

@@f8monty37 you didn’t see it on 7:27? I talk about the two notches where the jack stand sit.

You're welcome. Yeah, that first step is a bit hidden like you said, if you dont know.

That's a sweet deal, to get them for 650. I got them for a bit more, I also repaired and powercoated them if you haven't seen this video: ruclips.net/video/6gCS0yZOj4Q/видео.html

The white connector was this: amzn.to/4hAtBw7, I used this before realizing it wasn't compatible with my stock bose amplifier, but this is good for if you have an aftermarket speaker / amplifier system. I switched to the blue connector with RCA plugs later so could work with the RSX bose speaker system as seen in this list: www.amazon.com/shop/revcircle/list/1COWB8MW8ANAJ?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d

@@kproductions8553 I believe everyone swears by Honda bond. You gotta use a thin bead, not too much and spread it evenly. I think if I did a rebuild out of the engine, I’d do honda bond. I think it’s good too, but it cures fast so I did the dry cometic gasket willing to see if it was a good alternative. So far it’s holding up and it’s been almost a year. Around 4 months in, I checked it and had a little leak because the bolts got loose from vibration. I retightened them and it was fine. I think I could have used blue thread locker / loctite. So no leaks since then.

Oh gotchu makes sense thank you cause I’m currently replacing mine tmr and gonna go with a regular gasket and be sure to use blue locker thank you

@ good luck. 👍 Hope this video helps with it

Oh thanks, i was curious as it didnt look like the type S one.

I made a quick list of Acuity products I've tried which includes the shift boot and various colors: amzn.to/3ChqGrJ

@ I mean the actual shift boot itself, not the shift boot collar. Thanks

@ ah that’s what you mean. I got it off eBay for $20 ish bucks. The seller I bought it from doesn’t exist anymore but this seems to be closest: www.ebay.com/itm/133364871219?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-zMlToYUQ0K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=UzP2F6yWQ2y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Good to know it’s still a solid lens, I also have plans to use this for travel too

I'm almost at a year running it, and havent had any fuel issue since installing it. So I'd say it's good. I do put a bottle of fuel injection cleaner every 3k miles mostly to maintain the fuel injectors, but the pump is running solid.

I got mine on Amazon so I could return them easier if it didnt work out. Here's a link to that: amzn.to/4fpOSGG But always look for other prices and compare, it could be cheaper elsewhere and they rose in price since I got them. These are the 25mm, if you trying to go stock fitment, 15mm is good too. You can also do cheaper no-name brands, I just wanted the peace of mind since i haent ran it before. Generally H&R are a bit on the pricier side. Did a quick search and I also see it on kseriesparts.com, but 20 bucks more.

👌You might be right after looking at the pictures. Thanks for the catch. Glad I posted it and someone caught it. Oddly enough I've been driving it for a few months and haven't had any rubbing issues, but will probably take it apart this weekend and flip it so the arch is over the arms.

@@Slave-Of-Christ learning the camera now and already loving it photos

@@nilolee2426 I haven’t took an obd reader to it. But it seems idle at the ranges you mentioned. For sure below 1k rpm sound 700-750 is what I saw in the gauge when I ball parked it

Mine has similar RPMs

@@kai1218 yeah, pretty excited. Trying it out

@@revcircle can’t wait to see the photos from this camera 📸

@@kai1218 It's going to be fun.