Buy a, 1 wire, coil on top, GM style distributor, motorcraft 2150, manual choke, non elect carb and adapter. Remove/cancel/bypass all crappy ford style ignition electronics for early CJs. later CJs/YJs cancel all crappy Crysler emissions/computor +wiring. Now you have only 1 wire that runs the engine, and a bulletproof carb, that feeds the fuel, now you have removed 99% of the carb issues, 100% electronic issues, and 0 problems on the road/trail.
Just finished the Nutter bypass on my 89YJ. I got rid of the Carter carburetor and bought a cheap $89 Chinese carburetor from Amazon it was a copy of a Motorcraft 2150. I had to buy the adapter plate for it for $26. And a 33046 fuel filter that screws into the carburetor. I deleted all the vac lines, except those that go to the distributor advance heater control 4 x 4 control and brake assist. I kept the PCV valve that screws into the top of the head cover And ran that to a vac line as well. I took two wires and went directly from my distributor and went all the way around and went directly to my ignition module , I didn’t search for wires going into the firewall like some others do. I changed the distributor it was $30, good thing too as there are some problems with the old one that was making it surge a little bit. Gave it a complete tuneup plugs wires rotor cap. I timed it by ear and that seemed to be good enough, it has a whole lot more power and smooth all the way through the rev band. Idles from cold start and after warm. All the hoses and junk removed including that huge air cleaner make it easy to access everything. I traded a motorcycle I paid $1000 for 6 years ago for this jeep. It did have some extreme rust issues with the rear shock brackets and one rear leaf shackle bracket and frame area, but after some cutting and welding it’s all solid again. If someone is having problems with how their jeep is running I strongly suggest ditching that carter carb and getting the MC 2150 on Amazon compatible for 88 Jeep Wrangler some carbs come with the fuel filter with nipple. And make sure you get the adapter plate. Gonna need to take the old base plate off since the new adapter plate is almost as thick, also Make sure the kitcomes with the thick black base plate gasket since the carb will have vac leak problem without it or you have to make a custom gasket. ( carb base slightly bigger than thin gaskets that come with the carb) thanks to you , and about 10 other videos I watched, this motor transformation took place in less than 6 hours.
Ps , if the adapter and customizing the throttle attachment bracket is too hard for some, you can order a cheap Amazon carter copy for $68 without the stepper motor (88 and older) and it’ll just slap on with no mods.
Do you have any vacuum drigrams? I've been working on a 1989 TY. I have not found much on the web. I am working on a jeep that the motor was 50% missing, so I dont have much to go from. Thanks.
Tom it's armadillo bob have a 81 258 AMC mute in jeep It's been raped out wire and emissions Starts drives ok want to put kit in carb or rnr carb also where may I get Reg distributor with points n condensers eliminate module
Hey bro, I just found you for the first time. A what bypass?. I got the same motor, except it has all the vacuum crap still on it. Runs great on the street, but it won't idle worth a crap. I know it's vacuum, but I too want to cap everything off that I can. Would you consider making one and telling us exactly which ones we need to keep? And what is the bypass thing you mentioned? Thanks in advance sir.
Bruhh.🙄 I am goin thru the same exact shituation! This dam motorcraft starter relay is hella confusing, after replacing everything I have been stuck trying to figure out this factory wiring for almost 4 months now. I'm gonna do this conversion tomorrow, crossing my fingers and everything thing else that can be crossed it goes better than it has for the past 110 days.. ...thank you for courage and of course your video & knowledge.
This is a good explanation! I’m having issues with my 86 Eagle 258 but I’m going to try to fix the choke & stepper motor and if I can’t I may have to do this. I bought a choke thermostat for $15 and a carb rebuild kit for $20 so I figure it’s worth a shot.
GusgusA1 yes, since you basically disconnect all electronic connections to the carb it eliminates the electronic choke. Buy a manual choke for $10 and you’ll be fine. I ran one and honestly I’ve never need to use it.
So leave the plug at the distributor connected, but cut the orange and purple wirea coming directly out of the distributor before the plug, wire those to the icm under the bottle on the drivers side?
I live in a state with emissions inspections, do you think this would fail me? To me, it seems like running better would mean better emissions but I could be wrong.
I'm having spittering and sputtering on my 1988 Jeep Wrangler and cannot find the source. We did a vacuum test on it but now it is about locating the problem. I just replaced the EGR valve and it isn't really making the difference. The RPMs bounce between 1000 and 1500 and it sometimes dies on me. Do you feel this is because of the emission controls? Also, do you know anything about throttle valve assembly? I am getting no pick up and it looks like someone cut one of the arms on it. I wish I could send you a picture of this. Please make a video about the TV assembly and how it is supposed to work. I have the same Jeep that you do and want to see what needs to be done, or how it is supposed to work. thanks. Pixie
Three questions: #1. Are you connecting the two new wires from the distributor directly to the two orange and purple wires coming out of the ignition module, or did you connect the new wires from the distributor directly to the two wires that plug in into ignition module, they for bypassing the ignition module? #2. By cutting the old orange and purple wires that went from the distributor to the computer and now going from the distributor to the ignition module you are bypassing the computer, correct? #3. I am wondering why start the bypass from the distributor, why not splice in before the orange/purple wires go into firewall from the loom, then bypass only on the drivers side down to the ignition module, wouldn't that effectively be the same thing and using less wire added on as a bypass? Thx, Tom
I need help please I have a 1990 jeep wrangler cj with a 4.2 and carter carburetor once I get up to 30 mph it stalls out why and what can do I been on it for a month can someone help me thank u
Did the nutter bypass and the Jeep ran great for about a month. Now, starts intermittently and runs 20 sec at best. Coincidence...I think so. I've double checked my wiring and connections. It has the original ignition module on it. Any thoughts?
Could be anything, i had a similar problem. My weber 38 has some "jets" that screw into the side of it and it had gunk or something in it, cleaned it out with wire and it worked fine. I don't know a thing abt jeeps so if what I'm saying sounds off, sorry, I would just "factory reset" the carbuerator and clean some parts of it. Might help might not
I just did this and no spark. Im confused on do you eliminate the ecm and connect the orange and purple to the harness or connect that to the ecm keeping it in play. Thanks
NY only requires emissions on 1996 and newer obd2 controlled vehicles. anything older is safety inspection only(lights,tires,tie rodes,ball joints etc). it takes 2 minutes to inspect my 87 grand Wagoneer and I'm on my way.
I am wondering why start the bypass from the distributor, why not splice in before the orange/purple wires go into firewall from the loom, then bypass only on the drivers side down to the ignition module, wouldn't that effectively be the same thing and using less wire added on as a bypass.?
Man I really hope you make some more videos or anything cuz this is been one of the best instructionals that ive seen so far ! and I have searching a lot !
hi tom vidio, i got a question,can this be done on 90 4.2 wrangler automatic trans?i already replaced the carb w/a weber and still can't get the darn thing to idle runs great @hi rpms any help is appriciatate
Once again.....Nice job and Thank You Sir!!!! Cleaned the "Ole YJ" engine compartment right up getting rid of all those hoses and factory air filter housing!
You rock Thomas!!!! I just did the nutter bypass on my 89 YJ a week ago. Man....no more stalling and it runs 200% better than what it was. Great video.
im going to be doing a nutter on a 89' 4.2l 6 cyl. original carb. i keep reading about the work that needs to be done to the carb for this bypass but are those pins the only thing?
What bypass? Nutter? Notter? What is it?
A “Nutter Bypass” is when you remove the computer from telling your carburetor and emissions what to do. It makes these engines runs so much better.
@@nathanieladams7624 thank you.
Buy a, 1 wire, coil on top, GM style distributor, motorcraft 2150, manual choke, non elect carb and adapter. Remove/cancel/bypass all crappy ford style ignition electronics for early CJs. later CJs/YJs cancel all crappy Crysler emissions/computor +wiring. Now you have only 1 wire that runs the engine, and a bulletproof carb, that feeds the fuel, now you have removed 99% of the carb issues, 100% electronic issues, and 0 problems on the road/trail.
Everything runs more efficiently without government intervention. LOL
Just finished the Nutter bypass on my 89YJ. I got rid of the Carter carburetor and bought a cheap $89 Chinese carburetor from Amazon it was a copy of a Motorcraft 2150. I had to buy the adapter plate for it for $26. And a 33046 fuel filter that screws into the carburetor. I deleted all the vac lines, except those that go to the distributor advance heater control 4 x 4 control and brake assist. I kept the PCV valve that screws into the top of the head cover And ran that to a vac line as well. I took two wires and went directly from my distributor and went all the way around and went directly to my ignition module , I didn’t search for wires going into the firewall like some others do. I changed the distributor it was $30, good thing too as there are some problems with the old one that was making it surge a little bit. Gave it a complete tuneup plugs wires rotor cap. I timed it by ear and that seemed to be good enough, it has a whole lot more power and smooth all the way through the rev band. Idles from cold start and after warm. All the hoses and junk removed including that huge air cleaner make it easy to access everything. I traded a motorcycle I paid $1000 for 6 years ago for this jeep. It did have some extreme rust issues with the rear shock brackets and one rear leaf shackle bracket and frame area, but after some cutting and welding it’s all solid again. If someone is having problems with how their jeep is running I strongly suggest ditching that carter carb and getting the MC 2150 on Amazon compatible for 88 Jeep Wrangler some carbs come with the fuel filter with nipple. And make sure you get the adapter plate. Gonna need to take the old base plate off since the new adapter plate is almost as thick, also Make sure the kitcomes with the thick black base plate gasket since the carb will have vac leak problem without it or you have to make a custom gasket. ( carb base slightly bigger than thin gaskets that come with the carb) thanks to you , and about 10 other videos I watched, this motor transformation took place in less than 6 hours.
Ps , if the adapter and customizing the throttle attachment bracket is too hard for some, you can order a cheap Amazon carter copy for $68 without the stepper motor (88 and older) and it’ll just slap on with no mods.
Do you have any vacuum drigrams? I've been working on a 1989 TY. I have not found much on the web. I am working on a jeep that the motor was 50% missing, so I dont have much to go from. Thanks.
Tom it's armadillo bob have a 81 258 AMC mute in jeep It's been raped out wire and emissions Starts drives ok want to put kit in carb or rnr carb also where may I get Reg distributor with points n condensers eliminate module
Video is 9 years old and I just watched it today 17/07/2022 and now my 85CJ idles again.
Hey bro, I just found you for the first time. A what bypass?. I got the same motor, except it has all the vacuum crap still on it. Runs great on the street, but it won't idle worth a crap. I know it's vacuum, but I too want to cap everything off that I can. Would you consider making one and telling us exactly which ones we need to keep? And what is the bypass thing you mentioned? Thanks in advance sir.
Good day! Thanks for the video very helpful. Can you share where did you got the cold air intake filter system? Thanks
The reason they twist wire is to make the ends even... It has nothing to do with "conductivity"...
Thanks a TON for the video! I'll be doing that to mine!
Great video thanks. Do you plug the stepper motor back in after you set the pin length?
What is the single red wire running laterally over the top of the engine?
Vacuum tubing. Ported vac from the distributor to the carb.
I got a now carburetor that has no stepper motor. There is nothing to plug the plug into. Does it matter if I leave it unplugged?
Bruhh.🙄 I am goin thru the same exact shituation! This dam motorcraft starter relay is hella confusing, after replacing everything I have been stuck trying to figure out this factory wiring for almost 4 months now. I'm gonna do this conversion tomorrow, crossing my fingers and everything thing else that can be crossed it goes better than it has for the past 110 days.. ...thank you for courage and of course your video & knowledge.
This is a good explanation! I’m having issues with my 86 Eagle 258 but I’m going to try to fix the choke & stepper motor and if I can’t I may have to do this. I bought a choke thermostat for $15 and a carb rebuild kit for $20 so I figure it’s worth a shot.
What if you replace the carb with a weber
what does a guy gain by doing this?
Much better performance and better fuel mileage.
@@thomasducato5623 thank you
@@thomasducato5623 does the butter bypass effect the choke?
GusgusA1 yes, since you basically disconnect all electronic connections to the carb it eliminates the electronic choke. Buy a manual choke for $10 and you’ll be fine. I ran one and honestly I’ve never need to use it.
what happens if i just plug the top carb vent the white plastic one .. does it really need to vent or can i plug it
So leave the plug at the distributor connected, but cut the orange and purple wirea coming directly out of the distributor before the plug, wire those to the icm under the bottle on the drivers side?
can i just plug the white vent tube and not use it ...does that vent tube help with vapor lock
Thanks Great Video!
I live in a state with emissions inspections, do you think this would fail me? To me, it seems like running better would mean better emissions but I could be wrong.
Ryan G my guess it would fail you. I have no cat on exhaust either.
@@thomasducato5623 is there anyway you could make a video on where all the vacuum lines go? If you still have the Jeep as is
I'm having spittering and sputtering on my 1988 Jeep Wrangler and cannot find the source. We did a vacuum test on it but now it is about locating the problem. I just replaced the EGR valve and it isn't really making the difference. The RPMs bounce between 1000 and 1500 and it sometimes dies on me. Do you feel this is because of the emission controls? Also, do you know anything about throttle valve assembly? I am getting no pick up and it looks like someone cut one of the arms on it. I wish I could send you a picture of this. Please make a video about the TV assembly and how it is supposed to work. I have the same Jeep that you do and want to see what needs to be done, or how it is supposed to work. thanks. Pixie
I have an 87 Wrangler that I love and have fought these vacuum lines for years! You answered a lot of my questions in this short Video!! Thank You
Three questions: #1. Are you connecting the two new wires from the distributor directly to the two orange and purple wires coming out of the ignition module, or did you connect the new wires from the distributor directly to the two wires that plug in into ignition module, they for bypassing the ignition module? #2. By cutting the old orange and purple wires that went from the distributor to the computer and now going from the distributor to the ignition module you are bypassing the computer, correct? #3. I am wondering why start the bypass from the distributor, why not splice in before the orange/purple wires go into firewall from the loom, then bypass only on the drivers side down to the ignition module, wouldn't that effectively be the same thing and using less wire added on as a bypass? Thx, Tom
Aslo, what is your air cleaner setup? I have a K&N that size laying around.
Not in New York after 96
I need help please I have a 1990 jeep wrangler cj with a 4.2 and carter carburetor once I get up to 30 mph it stalls out why and what can do I been on it for a month can someone help me thank u
Did the nutter bypass and the Jeep ran great for about a month. Now, starts intermittently and runs 20 sec at best. Coincidence...I think so. I've double checked my wiring and connections. It has the original ignition module on it. Any thoughts?
Could be anything, i had a similar problem. My weber 38 has some "jets" that screw into the side of it and it had gunk or something in it, cleaned it out with wire and it worked fine. I don't know a thing abt jeeps so if what I'm saying sounds off, sorry, I would just "factory reset" the carbuerator and clean some parts of it. Might help might not
Where did you get your air cleaner?
I just did this and no spark. Im confused on do you eliminate the ecm and connect the orange and purple to the harness or connect that to the ecm keeping it in play. Thanks
NY only requires emissions on 1996 and newer obd2 controlled vehicles. anything older is safety inspection only(lights,tires,tie rodes,ball joints etc). it takes 2 minutes to inspect my 87 grand Wagoneer and I'm on my way.
Just bought an 89 Islander. Great video. I have to replace the rear main seal in mine too.
I am wondering why start the bypass from the distributor, why not splice in before the orange/purple wires go into firewall from the loom, then bypass only on the drivers side down to the ignition module, wouldn't that effectively be the same thing and using less wire added on as a bypass.?
at 8:30, I that looks like your oil pressure sensor
Man I really hope you make some more videos or anything cuz this is been one of the best instructionals that ive seen so far ! and I have searching a lot !
Thank you. I just ordered a Weber synchro 38 2 bbl and considering doing this bypass along with the carb install.
hi tom vidio, i got a question,can this be done on 90 4.2 wrangler automatic trans?i already replaced the carb w/a weber and still can't get the darn thing to idle runs great @hi rpms any help is appriciatate
what did you set your timming at
Once again.....Nice job and Thank You Sir!!!! Cleaned the "Ole YJ" engine compartment right up getting rid of all those hoses and factory air filter housing!
Thank YOU Sir!!!! Works great on my 89 YJ! Good-bye MARTA......Hello 258!!!
Thanks bro.... U da man!!!!
What is your air cleaner? I'm looking for something like that for my 89.
how many miles were u getting BEFORE doing this???? i have a 1990 yj and im getting like 9 miles a gallon :(((
Great video! What air intake is that and how well does it work?
Hello i have some question what is your website or email
You rock Thomas!!!! I just did the nutter bypass on my 89 YJ a week ago. Man....no more stalling and it runs 200% better than what it was. Great video.
im going to be doing a nutter on a 89' 4.2l 6 cyl. original carb. i keep reading about the work that needs to be done to the carb for this bypass but are those pins the only thing?
Thomas, great videos...I have same engine but with a motorcraft 2150.....do you know which vacuum lines need to be hooked up......Thanks Patrick