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Eu não tenho mais isso. Eu vendi.

I am sorry I don't quite remember. I think it was between 5 1/4" and 6". I was going for 3-1 ratio but didn't quite make it that.

I wouldn't build it again unless I had a 110% positive was to get lots of oil to the chain. That saw created so much sawdust it plugged the bar and I could never keep it oiled. Even though I haven't had one before I would build a bandsaw mill if I did it again.

Thank you for the comment. I havent finished the control panel yet and with the TB6600 drivers I cant get above 2500 mm/m. I do expect the same issues your talking about when I do get the new drivers installed. I wanted to get 2700mm ball screws but I think if I go longer I will use a gear rack. I thought also about making a driven ball nut but it was more complicated than I wanted to do at this time.

@BonifiedWingnut As my current experience with long ballscrew within my DIY CNC, it may "oke" using long ballscrew, but we need ballscrew with larger diameter, for more than 2000 mm long, at least we need 35 mm of diameter, (currently Im only using 20 mm) with larger diameter it should reduce the wobbling and vibrations. But it cost so much when compare to pinion rack system. The reason Im using ballscrew is I want achieved precision on small parts, and it can't be done when using pinion rack. Rolling ballnut it's good, but it's complicated indeed, and I try to avoid any used of belt or timing beld (while it used at rolling ballnut).

I think if I decide I need more speed I might try 1610 ball screws to keep the rpms down.

Thank you. What voltage are you using for the 34's? The belt drive I started with would have had a lot faster capability but would have needed alot of microsteps for any accuracy. I think it is a 20 tooth pulley and a 5 mm belt. I am hoping I can get some more speed out of these Nema 23s when I get different drivers. I looked into GRBL but did not want to have to spend time I didn't have learning even more then I did. I use Freecad and a little bit of inkscape also. I think I have only been able to get to 2500 or 3000 mm a minute for rapids at this time. I have only made the one cut which even though it would easily have cut it in one pass I mad a few so I could see if it was missing steps. I never have enough time. Although I am happy with its speed I am hoping the new drivers will give me more without losing steps. If it gets to a point I want more I can get some nema 34s. The 23s seem to have quite a bit of force even on the 2 amp setting. I will make another video someday showing my original which I was hoping to finish in your $8-900 range. It would have been in constant need of maintenance if it functioned at all. I absolutely dreaded paying for linear rails but after looking for the cheapest combination I could find I got the 3 axis I think for around $500 including ball screws. I ended up using the 16mm round rails on the z axis since I messed up and the linear rails I ordered were too short. I wanted 2700mm on the y axis but the price from 2000 to 2700 doubles. So right now the useable range is like 48"x72" and 5 or 6" on the Z. it has been quite an experience and I purchased a 3040 cnc to practice with and drill pilot holes for the z axis. I have found I cannot drill straight holes where they need to be no matter how I lay them out. The small one was worth it just for that.

@@BonifiedWingnut my steppers are running with a 24v 15amp power supply. The higher the voltage the lower the amperage needs be. I started with tb6600 but I had lots of skipping on the x and y axis and they could only go as high as 1.5 amps. I have an 8mm lead screw with a nema 23 on the z and a tb6600 driver same power supply. I also added a fourth axis for the rotary table powered by a nema23 and tb6600 driver same as z axis. I upgraded to the dm556 drivers on the x and y and 800 steps per revolution on all 4 axis. It's a lot quieter and not terrible on precision. Finished a spoil board with t nuts and it was perfect. Within a couple thousands. Per hole. The chain was made here in the U.S. so quality is good. You have a mechanical advantage with your setup. The nema 23's should be OK. How are you powering them? I went to a world congress wood working event in Atlanta Georgia and all the professional small cnc routers had nema 23's and ball screws or lead screws. The big 4x8' machines use servo motors. If you have a spindle that can handle a half inch bit then you need bigger motors if your spindle has 1/4" bit capability then 23 nemas should be ok. I had to play with my speeds for two weeks before I was happy. I used universal g code sender to program the arduino on speed and precision. You might have to do the same. Note that the higher you go on steps per revolution the less torque the steppers have I would stay around 800. You might be OK increasing the amps until you can't hold the steppers because they are too hot. Most are engineered to handle boiling an egg from the high heat. I wouldn't go that high but hot enough to where you can hold it for several seconds is a good rule of thumb. You might need to tune those steppers or upgrade power supply/ drivers. I've seen youtube videos on adjusting torque and speeds with mach3. The torque is adjusted at the drivers with steps and amperage settings.

@@pg9112471 I am running 36v and I think the tb6600s are on 800 microsteps. The spindle has a 1/4" capability. I don't remember if it can do 3/8". No Arduino, I have Mach 3 and USBCNC. The Nema 23s and the drivers so far stay cold. That's why I think the TB6600s have a heat sink issue. There is a metal plate and a piece of double sided tape between the sink and the chip. I have some DM 556's on the way. Thought about a rack and pinion drive but didn't want to spend the time making a gear reduction. Next time I would probably use one on the Y axis at least. Thanks for all of your input.

@@BonifiedWingnut I'm pretty sure your problem is those tb 6600 drivers. You'll see the difference when you swap them out.

Yes it was just threaded rod and it worked well. But it would have been nocer if I used pillow blocks to carry the load at the top. I was using a washer on the end of it going through a piece of pipe and it would have eventually wore and needed to be redone.

@@BonifiedWingnut thnx for the reply, do u continue using it? Was it worth the effort? If not why so? Thanks

I sold it for basically what I had into it. It was worth it but there was some issues I never solved. The biggest one was oiling. The amount of sawdust it prodced plugged up the holes pretty quick. If you or anyone else builds one that probably needs to be the focus. A good pressurised oiling system. Second was the amount of sawdust it created. Be prepared to haul it. I also ended up getting decent wheels. The cheap garage door wheels wore out very fast..like in a day. If I build another it will be a bandsaw mill. Chainsaw chains last a long time and can be sharpened alot and the chainsaw idea is quick and simple but only good if that is your only option.

I pushed the center out of a clutch drum and had a 1" shaft turned down to fit that and a hole drilled and tapped in the end.. The rim sprocket fits over that as any other clutch and is held on with a bolt.

Probably 3600 rpms

Well I am not sure. I sold it before I got to test the pump much.

It has a 420cc 4 stroke I got off from Ebay new.

I think they were 3 1/2" and 5 1/2". The idlers 3 1/2 also I think. Don't remember. Sorry.

I would have to look it up and do the math but I think it was about 7 or 8000 rpms at the chain sprocket which was a 7 tooth.

I had the oil going into a fitting to oil the chain from inside from gravity. It kept plugging so I installed a pump and was still testing it when I sold it.

No I cannot. I remove the winch and replaced it with threaded rod. A winch is not a good way to raise and lower a sawmill. Unless you mack sure you lock the frame each time the whole thing can float up and down. I no longer have the sawmill

@@BonifiedWingnut thats what i thought i am having such a problem with the wench idea

It is the center pressed out of clutch drum and welded to the end of the shaft. The shaft is drilled and tapped so I can put a bolt and washer on to hold a normal sprocket.

@@BonifiedWingnut thanks

Actually I got the idea for the belt setup from an Exmark mower.

The Wingnut is because I fly rc planes. It will get an improved oiler as soon as I get time and I agree it is pretty smooth for a chainsaw.

@@BonifiedWingnut I have a bercomac snow blower that hooks up to a john deere riding lawn tractor. The snowblower uses the same belt arrangement to connect to the tractor PTO.

I am pretty sure I got the idea from a zero turn mower.

Haven't drank in 12 years. He got left by an ex. He used to be Santa.

If you look at my other video called "Homemade Chainsaw Mill build and testing Slideshow" at about 1:25 you can see a bolt I used that I drilled a hole through. I drilled a hole in the bar that would miss the drive links but still be open to the slot. I just used gravity to allow oil to run through this. It ended up plugging too easily so I just let oil drip onto the chain. That works poorly also. I have since bought a pump on Ebay that I plan on installing as soon as I get a chance. I will post another video when I do to show if it helped.

Well it seems to be funcctional anyway.

works perfect, good job building it, built mine a few years ago... keep making small mods to it as i use it ...

It is foam

Thank you. It was just a way to be cheap. But I would like to increase the belt size to 5/8" since it seems to be the weak point. But that could also be a good thing.

I use a regular chain and cut the top plate off every other tooth and sharpen it at 30 degrees. I then sharpen the remaining teeth at 0 degrees. And lower the rakers.

Pawpaw Smith I removed the bell from a clutch and used the splined center portion so I could swap sprokets. I had it welded to a 1" shaft and the end drilled and tapped. So you remove a socket head screw and washer to swap the sprocket. I will try to upload a picture

The end of the shaft had to be turned down to match the diameter of the clutch. I had a machinist do that for me it cost me $80 plus the clutch.

Pawpaw Smith ruclips.net/video/wcCOqlZsPUQ/видео.html

Thanks for the info. looks like it doses a great job.

I took that into account when I built it. But from my estimates getting one extra board is not worth the trouble of learning to sharpen band saw blades and getting the equipment to do it. But I might build another in with a band in the future.

I was thinking about adding a bandsaw to this one and having the option to use either. From what I keep seeing I don't like the idea of having to send the bands in to get sharpened. Did you end up building a Bandsaw mill?

needs a tensioner pulley.

A little over 3/8"

Brian Teed I will see what I can come up with.

I am pretty sure it is a standard 7 tooth. 8 at the most but I dont think so.

The pulleys are like 3 1/2" and 5 1/2". But I think on the 3 1/2" the belt sits lower and might be for a 5/8" belt. I am using a 1/2" belt. I grind the chain for ripping cutting of the top plate of alternating cutters and grinding the full cutters to 0 degrees and the half cutters at 20 degrees

farmallcubtractor 420cc Powerland. It is supposed to be 16 hp.

farmallcubtractor 16 hp 420 cc

I actually think its about 13hp