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@@trumblez the point was obviously not clear enough. I know how to get good signal on my modules. The point of the test was to see how Walksnail goggles handle *low* signal. The only way to simulate this is to remove module antennas.

@@Tokyo_Dom ok, sorry

Because the analog input plug does not work for *some* analog modules. Foxeer wildfire just shows green static when connected to the analog module plug.

@@Tokyo_Dom Thanks for the update. I still have not figured out my issure with not being able to calibrate and no signal. Maybe its my antennas. Frustrating.

Oops missed this message. Power split from the lipo, one side goes to the goggles. Other side goes into the 5v regulator, and that goes into the av2hdmi. Goggles need lipo voltage, not 5v

@@Tokyo_Dom Thank you. I watched for a reply for days lol. I have everything here. I did try this with a different power supply and there must have been some trapped smoke inside the speedybee analog receiver. The smoke came right out though. lmao. Moving on. Trying it your way. I am pretty sure the analog module is toast at this point due to my lack of patience. Maybe I can fix the analog receiver now. LOL. Thank you for the reply. The pic was what confused me, I thought the power from the av2hmi was part of the input power from the BEC. I see clearly now.

also, the printed cover is great., but gives me clearance issues with the Speedybee 5 way button due to no USB slot on the side of the printed cover. I just cut it out and sent it lol

@@keyboarduser0178 lol I know the feeling of impatience. Well yes, you can use any usb charger will have 5v coming out of them. Newer ones do multiple voltages but need specific signals back to enable the other voltages. Anyway, if you power the hdmi converter over usb, you can get voltage to the analog module from the circuit board where I've highlighted to *insert* 5v.

@@keyboarduser0178 oops yes sorry I didn't have the Speedybee so I asked others for measurements

@@keyboarduser0178 for power into the module it goes like this: Female barrel connector -> 5v bec -> male barrel connector. The bec is kind of in-line, so the in and out is just connected. The 5v output from the bec goes into the hdmi converter and the external module. Does that explain it better?

@@keyboarduser0178 this is almost guaranteed to be the proximity sensor. Hopefully, putting your finger right over the sensor should allow the screens to turn back on. There are guides on how to turn it off blindly if the sensor is really bad.

@@keyboarduser0178 alternatively, it could be that you are in hdmi input mode (also black screen) but unlikely in a brand new set. Hold the back button 3+ seconds and let go it should beep a couple of times then change input, cycling between walksnail, av input (blue screen) and hdmi input (black screen)

@@Tokyo_Dom I did figure it out. I cannot remember the sequence, but I found a way to get it to switch. It was a up, down, left, left, right, down, up lmao. something like that. It was in a weird mode. ....but now if i hold the button for 4 secs it changes from hdmi to analog to something else. black, fuzzy and then blue screen.....anywho.... that works. Nowww next.....

I'm not sure I would charge much for the quality of printing my printer does. Where are you at? Usually there are printing services that can be done for one-off or low volume prints. I found it somewhat expensive here in Japan - like 1500-2000yen for a single item, which is kind of ridiculous for a tiny piece of plastic. I'd be happy to print something for 500yen or so but postage outside of Japan is going to be silly.

@@Tokyo_Dom Yessir. I did order a couple from one guys. I ended thinking of all the printers for sale and figured there has to be someone that prints. Went to the fpv site where I get most of my quad parts and sure ass heck....there is a printing service. I ordered one from another guy just to see the lead time difference for other projects. I have yet to find a local person who actually follows through with requests. Usually they will promise something and then just never do it or get back to you lol. There is a pretty kool cover for front mount too. Its on the Caddx website. I ordered one of those too.

@@Tokyo_Dom Im not sure if I replied yet, but I did get the cover printed. I appreciate your direction on this. I am still trying to finish this mod. The 5v Reg is taking soooo long. Ive ordered more and have yet to get them. Wish me luck.

Oops sorry I didn't get to reply to you here. I used a box cutter to cut the pcb. Using a dremel stiiiinks and I'm sure the pcb dust isn't good for you. Then, I'm using awg30 for jumper wires, and I think awg16 for power wires. It's actually not that important, it doesn't draw that much power

I have a bunch of AWG30 wire that i ordered from Aliexpress in all sorts of colors - the yellow wire is from there. As for a different cable, i just didnt have anything that size, and there arent many cables available with a right angle connection on the mini-hdmi. But since i will be plugging and unplugging this regardless, I guess a pre-made connector would look cleaner here.

@@Tokyo_Dom Collaboration and ingenuity at its finest. Prototypes are never finished lol I even found a whole kit with a top cover and converter board on Bangoooods website for $9. lol id order that just to have a separate cover to mount the module to. lol.

@@Tokyo_Dom I just got the bulk of mine. I realized that the 30G was for the AV2 wire? I have 3 of the connector cables here, I will just cut 2 to make 1 long one. Should work. lol. Less soldering. I got to mass produce these. Dom, I will get you your 1% royalties on the sales. LMK how to send it.

@@its_key haha all good its "open source" but be sure to let them know Tokyo_Dom showed you how to do it haha

@herrvongestern5129 I guess you didn't understand the purpose of this test. I know there is no antennas on the module, and I know it is in pit mode. That is *intentional* because I am simulating a low signal scenario... I could keep the quad on 25mw and put antennas on the module but then I would need to put the quad 100m away to get that sort of bad reception. Also, I am not comparing the video reception between the monitor and the vrx. I don't care which is better, and neither should you. What I am doing is showing what the goggles do when video signal is very weak. The monitor is just there to prove that the quad is still plugged in. This analog fix is now in the latest (beta) firmware that everyine can download (and anyone who flies analog really should use that version) , so I consider this issue closed.

​@Tokyo_Dom wow you stayed so calm and collected, well done sir. Thank you from America 🇺🇸

@@herrvongestern5129 I suggest you watch the original video to understand what I am doing. I know there is no antennas on my module. I need to replicate low signal to show how the goggles behave when you fly far away.

Absolutely. Or just an RCA on the side of the hdmi adapter.

I use it, but I keep my HDO's for flying analog. That might change when Caddx releases their module but right now it's still too clunky, no dvr

@@Tokyo_Dom no dvr?is important for me rec fly from google for safety

@@DimisFpv yes me too. You can add a dvr module as well but the one I ordered didn't work. The Caddx one will have dvr too apparently. So once that's out it seems like a pretty solid solution, but right now it's a little clunky

I havent measured this but for sure its less than 80ms. That would be pretty dramatic and hard to fly FPV for sure. I have no issues flying with this solution, i suspect its well under 50ms

Yeah its going pretty good for me. I like the blue background before plugging in the module (the firmewre they sent me was black, and it made it hard to tell if I was in av in or hdmi input). It's not black and white for me... What module are you using and is your camera pal or ntsc?

Yeah 5 inch is not going to work in Tokyo. There are some drone fields out in Chiba and kanagawa but you will want to have all your licenses and approvals to fly there. 2.5 inch is also pushing it in the city, just too many people in the parks here, and trust me, you will have the police called on you at some point (I have). The way I deal with it is to stay well under 100g, ducted whoops I can fly indoors and if I do happen to fly outside, it's small and harmless looking so unlikely to anger anyone.

as a hobby, prob wont get messed with much in Tokyo. Be nice and stay away from large crowds when possible. Tokyo has lots of quiet places to fly.

This is on Quicksilver firmware (both of them) and running the default 65mm pid preset. It helps that both have the mpu6000 gyro, but in general Quicksilver doesn't need much tuning to fly great!

Does it work with foxeer wildfire with hdmi-svideo adapter after modification?

@@vitalyparhomenko7817 this hdmi adapter works great with the Foxeer wildfire. No issues with over brightness, and full 16x9 screen use. It's just that this method is kind of diy compared to the off-the-shelf dji analog adapter.

Mine is the 3.0, I got it here: a.aliexpress.com/_opchAgm there is the 3.0+ which has the voltage display but I didn't want to use that. It won't make a difference on whether the module will work on these goggles though. All of them just pass the video signal directly from the receiver to the 3.5mm port, there is no processing, no modification. My adapter will work with rapidfire too, it should work with all of the modules

@@Tokyo_Dom OK, Thank again. I'll get rapidfire. BTW, walksnail tell me they will fix fake snow in next update.

I think you would be correct sir. See the comment from gforce3191 up a page or so....

Yes, it just plugs in and works... for some analog receivers. It seems that there are compatibility issues with the Speedybee, Foxeer Wildfire and my URUAV RX5808 Evo. What module do you have? If its one of these aforementioned receivers then its interesting to hear it works on the DJI goggles - i would need to send that feedback to Caddx

I have the rapidfire. And soeedybee. Although I haven't tried the Speedy bee because the rapid fire wasn't working maybe it's the adapter that I'm using that isn't compatible... I am on the latest firmware that was released like what the month or two ago

@@devilsreject78 that should work, I've seen others with the rapidfire and it works for them (see the Bardwell review of the goggles X). It will just show the fake snow until you have a quad plugged in though. And you might need to set the RF to legacy mode (shouldn't, but worth a try)

what issue do you have ? i'm thinking about using the av in of my googles to add a diversity module

@@TheEquinoxe62 av input won't work at all for the following modules: foxeer wildfire, Speedybee, Uruav Rx5808 Evo. Just shows snow or possibly glimpses of distorted image. It's fine for most other modules, especially if it's just a simple diversity module.

@@Tokyo_Domi have a steadyview skyzone receiver, without scroll wheel. I need one to swap channels, any clue on how I should go about this? I have an adapter already (av in) Great video.

@@Tokyo_Dom How about RapidFIRE and TBS FUSION?

@@Nenenaman you will need to put an Elrs backpack on there, then you can change channels via your radio using the ELRS menu (vtx administrator)

Yes should be no problem. But I've also seen people post on Facebook that they can use steadyview with a normal Uruav dji analog adapter. I suppose it's a case of pick your poison: fake snow and 4:3 or blue screen and full screen 16:9 🤔

@@Tokyo_Dom so the adapter can navigate/choose channel for the steadyview? Cool..

@@eddie_Za oh wait I thought you meant the steadyview X. No there is no way for the adapter to communicate with the regular steadyview. Would need to add an Elrs backpack I think?

Hey so unfortunately I don't have a high speed camera (other than my gopro I think does 240fps). But I don't think this will have any improvement on using the av-input for analog. It uses the exact same MS1858E chip as the av-input board has in the goggles, and other tests show this av2hdmi adapter has a 2 frame latency (33ms). This is exactly what mads tech measured in his tests so this should have the same latency plus a couple of ms for the hdmi input delay. In practice I can't see the difference between the goggles (output to the monitor) and the fpv monitor underneath but if you are sensitive it might be an issue

@@Tokyo_Dom i think 100fps each frame would be a millisecond, i may be wring... but your gooro should work, im just curious in general, i heard the dji v2 adds like 40ms when converting analog, just was really wondering if i can sell my hdo2 and vrx and put towards the goggleX

My mistake, each frame in 240fps is 4.166666 milliseconds

@@DigitalCruzer 1ms is 1/1000 of a second so 100fps will be 10ms/frame. At 240 I will be at about 4.2ms per frame but I can give it a go. Personally I wouldn't go selling your hdo2s, I've still got my HDO's, I think it will take a while before Caddx get analog sorted to an acceptable level (and my solution here, while I am enjoying it, isn't perfect - I'm scared to go out past walking distance in case I go to a bluescreen)

repair.wiki/w/Avatar_Goggles_X#/media/File:Avatar-HD-Front-PC-2-scaled.jpg yes it has the ms1858e on the main board. And 2 frames actually matches the 33ms that Mads Tech measured for analog latency - about 15ms more than the HDZ goggles. But it hasn't bothered me one bit while flying, and i guess if that difference is a problem for you then Walksnail would be out of the question to start with.

@@Tokyo_Dom nice, that's cool to hear the research matches. Thanks for the extra information!

@@Tokyo_Dom Thank you for the video again. Could you please see my comment on top and provide info on wire sizes for individual sockets. Literally sitting here staring at all the stuff to solder together. lol.

It should be exactly the same as using AV input. That goes through the same MS1858E hdmi conversion chip inside the goggles. You can see there is no latency difference noticeable by looking at the two screens when I am flying

TBS Fusion SteadyviewX Rapidfire (Assumed - from watching Bardwell's review) Furious FPV True D Eachine Pro58 Those are the ones i have tested or seen working online

Thanks for answer! But wich with it work without digital snow@@Tokyo_Dom

@@volodymyrvs7661 right now *all* modules will show digital snow when the signal is very low. There is a firmware that I am testing with that stops it, but it is not official, Caddx are aiming to release it after the Chinese new year holidays.

Thanks for answer. Will try)@@Tokyo_Dom

Don't do it to yourself! You deserve to fly whoops on these beautiful 16:9 screens!

@dbloemhard you're killin me smalls. How much does it cost for all the components(minus the analog module and antennas)? I have a rapidfire module, antennas, and uruav adapter.

I do love soldering and making stuff though. The cost and functionality would be the only deal breaker for me. My only experience flying analog is with the uruav adapter on dji v2 goggles.

How cheap/easy do you want? If you already have the Uruav analog adapter, you can just use that with an Av2hdmi adapter like this a.aliexpress.com/_ooupUDM - the analog adapter already has the 5v regulator, barrel plug and analog socket bay. So on the adapter module you will see 4 pads 5v, GND, Audio, AV. Just wire the 5v and gnd to the pins of the vreg that I show at 4:04 in this video. And AV goes to the video pin at 4:14 (where the yellow wire is). Can also wire ground here too if you want to make sure you don't have video noise. The total height might be a bit higher than the one in my video but it's cheaper and quicker haha

If you do it this way, you obviously dont connect the uruav adapter to the goggles via the 3.5mm plug anymore. Just put the power lead into the uruav module, and the extension lead goes from the other side of that into the goggles. And then a small HDMI to Mini HDMI cable from the AV2HDMI box to the goggles.

What's the difference with a normal D2A and this one?

And when I have this installation is there something I need to change within the goggles or within betaflight?

What analog module do you have? Goggles side that is. There is a known issue that modules that do "image fusion" cannot display on the Goggles X. That includes the Speedybee VRX, the Foxeer Wildfire, and my URUAV RX5808 Evo. See my most recent video, i show you a workaround you can use for these modules.

@@Tokyo_Dom Yeah, I have the SpeedyBee 5.8GHz FPV Goggles Receiver, I'll try it out thanks for helping!

Oh no that doesn't sound good at all. Which analog module are you using? I saw a comment on Facebook saying that they got the random blue screen quite often using a regular switching diversity module - I think this converter has trouble when the switch is done. The speedybee/wildfire etc modules merge the signal rather than switching completely so that should avoid it.

Good evening Tokyo_dom Thank you very much for your help, I followed your advice and immediately purchased a latest generation SpeedyBee receiver I will keep you informed as soon as I receive it after the first tests, I sincerely hope that the problem was indeed due to this I am impatient to be able to do like you and fly in analog with my Walksnail struggles Sincerely thank you again for your help, look forward to your next videos Thank you very much from your subscriber from France David

@@dronesdavidpro hopefully you have a better experience with this module. Note that Caddx has informed me that they are testing specifically with the Speedybee receiver, so this module should work without problems on the regular AV input in their next firmware too. I will make another video update when this is available

@@Tokyo_Dom Hi, Do you know whether Caddx have been successful yet in getting the SpeedyBee receiver to work with the goggles yet please. Thanks Jon

@@jonblackburn5896 they are on the Chinese new year holidays, I suspect they haven't done any work in it for the last 2 weeks :) How is the experience with your Speedybee now? Is the signal solid now?

The Evo is much, much better. Not sure this was a decent test in hindsight, but since switching to the Evo I have almost no flickering, no lost images.

Check the latency for yourself. The small monitor is a normal analog monitor with little to no latency. I can't tell the difference!

@@Tokyo_Dom I also can not see any difference based on those two monitors. I just want to know how it works for you on practice. Thanks

@@BagrijRoman in practice it works great. The other version of the HDMI adapter i showed in that screenshot uses a different process - converts the AV to VGA and then VGA into HDMI; i imagine this might add some unwanted latency but the adapter in this module i use has the exact same chipset as the goggles X use for Analog input, so it should be identical

Would be the same. You can compare the video feed on the standalone monitor if you think it will be a problem - that's not going through the walksnail goggles and has the same latency we expect in all analog systems.

@@Tokyo_Dom but in ws with analog it is much more than the digital Receiver. I thought maybe its a Problem of the ws analog converter

@@chrisdomeier4985 no it's not a problem with mine. Look at the two screens, they are exactly in sync. Are you referring to the latency numbers that Mads Tech measured or did you actually fly and felt latency? If you actually felt latency then I'm not sure what's wrong, the analog input latency is fine for me (and others that I have spoken to)

It's still my main walksnail whoop, even though I built 4 more. It's just a perfect formula. Low kV gives me long flight times and it's light enough to have enough power for indoor freestyle. I've seen so many other people attempt 65mm and they end up giving up because they choose high kV and ultimately have stupidly short flight times.

@@Tokyo_Dom actually right now I just put the moblite7 Walksnail on a 65mm frame and man I only lasted for 40seconds hahaha. the 1002s are draining battery

@@vernelfpv definitely the wrong motors for the job. Build light, build with the right parts. My formula is a great start imo