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I don't know if this is regional, but our nat gas supply is pretty solid. Many houses have whole home genies on nat gas with no issues. I have never heard anyone have a feed problem.

@@Blakes-Garage it was on the national news the other day but don’t remember where

Living in south east Texas we have had multiple long term outages with hurricanes and the "big freeze" I have never heard of that issue. Very weird.

Yea it's a balance between enough lift, enough area to be safe, and too long to mess with. If I did it again I would shorten each section a bit and add a step or two. But then you run into interference with the front bumper.

Pretty much everything came from Amazon. It wasn't a kit though. I ordered the brake rebuild stuff, the cables, etc, separately.

Yes, they go back to last setting when turned off.

Yes, it was essentially flooding. It would eventually start if I followed the "clear a flood" process. Holding the peddle to the floor while cranking.

If you also had a way to support the axle and move it up into position. I think so.

For very light duty, the concept is nice, but not for high lift or heavy stuff. My jeep fell off and broke the lift pad off.

@@Blakes-Garage Thanks for the information and I've now decided to go back to having a 2,000kg hydraulic trolley jack.

Sounds like typical jeep life!

Mine is gas with a 12v battery for starting and accessories. If your electric then yes, 48v is common.

Oh ok. I must have overlooked that part. Thank you.

I normally run out about 20-25lbs, sometime that's what the manual suggests. I don't think it goes up much at all at that pressure.

I didn't even think to try to source a oem style. Figured it didn't have one.

Yes, the NG, or propane options don't have the stored energy of gas.

Sounds fun!

It works well! Sounds good and it's loud enough.

I know I can adjust it down with the linkage, but I am not sure how to adjust the brake light button to match. It's probably easy, I just haven't looked.

I don't remember the exact amount but it was in the instructions. I do remember feeling like it was not needed, but I had it alined at a shop so maybe so.

Do you have the right wire for the reverse signal? Also a good ground?

Yea, it's grounded, but I don't remember if I ran one or if it was already there.

Yes, it's grounded, but I don't remember if it was already there or a ran a new one.

This is good info, but I think if I switched it, the canister would hit the carb. It works really well as it is though.

Briggs and Stratton 277255 Tri-Fuel Kit

@@Blakes-Garage thank you for the fast response! I’m excited to try this out.

I ran a hot up under the dash and added a fuse panel. It's connected to that so hot always.

Yes, I think so. I originally ordered the one with d rings, but it's discontinued and out if stock.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!

Good luck!

@@Blakes-Garage thanks man. It's weird because the compressor clutch is engaging and I just topped off the refrigerant and checked the pressures...the high side is a bit low, but it's only cooling like 10-15° cooler than ambient temperature. I'm guessing either my compressor is on its way out, or my orifice tube is clogged. Won't know til I get in there, so I may just replace both along with the accumulator while I have the system opened up.

@@benwrenchin what are your numbers? My truck doesn't have a "max ac" button so no way to force recirculation. I was sitting at idle earlier today and something changed in the dash and it went into recirc. It was blowing super cold. Wish I could keep it that way somehow.

@@Blakes-Garage I got it to about 50 psi on the low side and about 140 on the high side. It was around 80° outside when I checked it, so the low side pressure is basically the highest it can be while the high side should be around 175-210° so it's not really even close to what it should be. I always thought that if the compressor clutch engages then the compressor is working, but for whatever reason mines just not working like it should.

@@benwrenchin I'm no expert but I think your right. it definitely sounds like you have a clog or the compressor is going out. What year? If you do have a clogged orifice you will need to flush all the hoses and parts.

The tape didn't hold up very well. I had to go back and re secure a lot of it. The panels themselves are working great though!

Hell yea! Get on that thing, what are your plans?

@@Blakes-Garage hello sir thnks for the reply and I cnt tell you how excited I am for the truck and I jus ordered all the front and rear suspension and I jus received the 2inch shackles too level the truck after that I need to fix the a/c because the blend door actuator links are all in pieces so no a/c for now but watching you and all the videos I have hope and I thnk u for that sir you have a blessed day until the next video

The internet told me 40oz of R12, but to start with 30oz since its converted to R132a. it somehow took 48oz but its blowing cold, for 35yrs old. It was down to about 15psi after 10 minutes so I think its got a very slow leak. If I have to put a $20 can in it a couple of times a year, I consider that acceptable. Good tip on the sniffer in the drain line. I will try that. I cannot find a high side fitting. Thank you for the detailed comment, I appreciate the information.

It is in really good shape, especially for the age, I really lucked up on this one. The previous owner donated it to a church and i got it from a guy that bought it at auction.

An a/c shop should do the evac for free, but I just had to put that in the video so no one would get mad, There wasn't enough in it to do much, less than a half a can.

@@Blakes-Garage Well thanks for the video, and the link to the AC kit on Amazon, that looks like it has everything, I've been letting this go and just going without AC for a while, it'll kind of be nice to get AC working again, your video makes it look like it's something that with that kit, I can do 👍

I went back in a later video and cut the bed support, shortened the bump stops, and installed air shocks. That along with rolling the fenders seems to have gotten me where I want to be.

@@Blakes-Garage Outstanding. Thanks for the videos. Inspiring and well produced.

If you think you may have wiring issues you can check voltage at the wire on that switch to make sure it's working first.

@@Blakes-Garage thanks, I'll check it out .

Longer screws for the panel if you mount it there. That was it if you don't do the other mod with the filler. I would suggest using a real ad-a-fuse instead of the tabs they send. Seems to be hard on the socket.

an update to this. Thread tape. i had a pretty bad leak, and tracked it down to where the brass end threads onto the filler for the shock system. 3 wraps of tape fixed it up.

@@Blakes-Garagecould I just use another union tee instead of the screw on brass?

@@moycorral7870 you could, but would have to find one for the right size hoses. The hose in the pump kit is bigger than the hose on my Monroe air shock set. The original picture of the parts kit I purchased showed the T fitting with 2 hose spots and the middle was the threaded part. When I received the kit it had a 3 hose T and the threaded part separated.

@@Blakes-Garage I don’t remember seeing something that screws on to the brass part in my kit but I’ll have to double check thanks

I doubt they will even get used at stock hp, but soon!

Sorry, I do not.if the oem starter is the same, I would assume so.

It's just a cheap boss head unit for now. www.crutchfield.com/p_104BE7SD/BOSS-Audio-BE7ACP-SD.html