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The Hall sensor is not just an issue on this bike, and it’s not really a significant problem overall. It happens occasionally, but only about once every 10 years or 50-100k km. The driveshaft is also quite reliable-much more so than the one on the 1200, which has far more frequent driveshaft issues. The ABS issue is 99 out of 100 times just a discharged battery. More modern BMWs with Integral ABS are actually more prone to serious ABS faults. The gearbox and clutch are also solid. I’ve repaired and serviced dozens of these bikes, and they’re among the least troublesome I’ve worked on. The issues you mentioned are not common-they’re basically the only potential problems, and they rarely occur. Also, a clutch that lasts 100k miles isn’t really a problem. If this were a KTM, you’d likely be replacing entire engines twice as often. I know someone who bought a 1998 R1100GS new, and after 10+ years and 120k+ miles, he only ever replaced service parts (fluids, filters, spark plugs, tires, and brake pads) and one bulb. I know this because he bought it from our shop, and no one else ever worked on that bike but us. Mechanically, these two models are very similar and they are sound. PS Thanks for the video!

I've got a 1995 with 130,000 km. I don't know why they would have done something worse in the 96 and 97, but the only one of those problems I've had is not the Hall sensor but the insulation on the wires to it disintegrated from the engine heat in 2021, causing shorting and intermittent engine cutting out. Clutch and gearbox and driveshaft are perfectly fine still. I had a little leaking from the front brake after the bike wasn't used for five years when I was overseas, I think from around the piston the lever operates, but after a couple of refills with about $1 of brake fluid each time the leak slowed down and seems to have stopped. It took 3 months to need a top up at the worst point anyway, which is NBD.The only other thing -- which was not mentioned -- is the ABS faulting due to momentary low battery voltage on cold starts.

Hes bonkers. With that mileage there are bound to parts that wear out. €15,000 for a clutch. NO. I have a receipt for mine at a main dealer and its £1,275. A tenth of what he quoted. The clutch plate is about £80 and i would do it myself, time consuming but not difficult

did you find out the issue?

I can hear you're not hindered by any knowledge about these bikes.

My R850RT is 26 years old, it has stock shaft drive, stock gearbox, stock clutch... I change the Hall sensor once, the front and rear shocks, the ignition coil, and final drive oil seal. That´s all. The clutch disc costs about 80 eur, so if you do it yourself, it´s dirty cheap. Could I split this old machine in half to replace it?. You can bet I will, if you pay someone to do it, it costs about 1.500 eur. It consumes A LOT of time, but not a lot of new costly parts. I advise to buy this old machines only to the kind of person that enjoy mechanics and do everything by himself, just for fun, just to learn, to spend time, to take a beer wathching the entire thing split into a thosand pieces on the floor, for the satisfaction to repair a bike and ride it later.. Are you one of them?. Well, just bought this thing. For the kind of people that has no mechanical habilities, no time, and only want to ride?. Avoid this old bikes and buy something newer.

Many of these bikes pull to the right. I had a 99 R1100RT and put over 70K miles on it and had that problem. When I recently purchased a bike I wanted a wet clutch for ease of changing the clutch plates and a belt drive. So now I have a F800 GT.

u spreekt in de video over de koppeling vervagen , 15 000 euro , dat is toch niet juist. dat is de prijs v de ganse motor

How much for the clutch? 15k? nooo wayyyy

Thanks for the advice. Appreciated.

Perfect! I have been looking at different R1100RT's lately.

Hi You mean 200.000 km or miles on the dashboard?

The discs are not original bmw; seems like trw-Lucas dics (no brainer as the original discs are horribly expensive, and trw-Lucas are a good replacement) Sideway play is to some degree no issue; the bobbins (“bushings”) have a warped washer, after time they loose their strength, with some sideplay as result. But: play in the rotating direction is a red flag. Period! Almost no play is acceptable, otherwise you may have to replace the complete disc. Here it seems the right disc is acceptable, but the left one not. Don’t mess with brakes though, for obvious reasons…

If the play in the rear wheel is still present with engaged rear brake, the small conical bearings in the swing arm are worn out, otherwise it is the main bearing (“wheel bearing”), both are quite costly and not so easy to repair.

yeah, PostAuto drivers have a lot of skill driving such routes, it's amazing

The bike sounds really sketchy when cold...

It runs very rough though, and the hard ticking noise is no good either. Does the ticking noise change (or disappear) when you engage the clutch?

Cool ashell

Good morning. I also have an R1100RT and would like to know what kind of support you have for the mobile phone. Thanks.