Видео

Battery goes under the back seat inside the car…but first you need some non see-thru floor pans for that haha. The engine is maybe the easiest thing you’ve got ahead of you 😂. Go get yourself a copy of John Muir’s How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot. Trust me you won’t regret it. It’s as entertaining as it is informative. Good luck!

First, let's cover the good......... :)

Valve stem seals when worn, will make the exhaust gasses turn blue! Your fuel-tank would benefit from a good clean and after that, use some white liquid tank sealer, "shake it about to cover all the inside", as you have rust pimples inside it, which will turn into holes soon! When using a puller, You tighten it up, "then" You give the "bolt" a sharp tap with a Hammer, Only once, you don't need to keep hitting it ! If it does not pop off, tighten a bit more, then tap it once again. Bingo, the wheel will pop up, job done. 👍

That lawn chair pro-tip was great, I'll have to keep that in mind when I get to pulling my front end off. :)

You forgot one behind the splash thing

Heck everthing is china

Quick update I put 120 miles on it today. The rear end is perfect and like I feared the gasket leaks. I don't think it's a fault of the gasket as much as the housing.

Back on the road in no time! :)

I knew when I saw he was wearing flip flops to do this he was in trouble.

Wow, that could have been a lot worse, you cashed in a few chips today. :)

Hopefully this turns into a bunch more videos while you work through this project! :)

What happened to make you look at the injectors?

what is the model/part number for the rear brake kit you used and when you were talking about the rear axle what was the replacement that you used.

Are you going to be doing a drive video? Would like to see how the truck runs with the 3.27 tkx

I had the same problem and I used the supplied applicator. I’m thinking this product can be useful in some scenarios but (like ceramic coatings) there is a learning curve to get the best results. I might try on another beater vehicle where anything is an improvement to see if I can do better.

Good bones, gonna be a great project!

Dude, nice job. I may be getting one of these soon!

I am the same as you except I have a Husqvarna z572x. I don't need that much mower, but I'm into mowers and I want the top of the line mower. I love the 72 inch deck, but you do have to be careful of scalping.

On my 1988 F150 replacing the oil pan gasket is a nightmare of a job. Loosen motor mounts and transmission mounts. Remove upper intake manifold. Jack up engine. Drop pan a few inches and then reach in and remove oil pump and pickup tube. Then work the pan out between the bottom of the engine and the support beam. Sure wish I had known that the rear seal could be replaced without removing the transmission.

I just had the same problem on my black car, using the gloss wipe on. I followed everything they said including using their pad. I then grey scotch padded it back down and tryed again using the pad you used but lighter on the clear. Same streaky results.

I've watched this over and over. I noticed you used the edge of the application pad which has stiching which put grooves in the clear. I watched Poppy's Patina page applications and they used the flat of the applicator pad.

ever figure out the streaking with the poppys?

Mine also did the same thing , and I got runs working from bottom to top to prevent that but streaks are terrible hopefully it will cure better than it looks

How do you like the wheel tire combo? I am doing the full kit right now on a 72 f100 and trying to decide if wheel tire sizes, offsets ect. Thank you

I had the same problem, and it seems a lot of people do as well. I yet to find a response from poppys on a solution...

Get a SCAG man. Turf Tiger 2 or Cheetah 2

If I rememner correctly, the round token that says detach is a code the dealership can use to cut you a key if you lose your key.

Would you mine telling me what you’re rim width, offset and tire size is?

Thank you. Answered a lot of questions.

I just applied the satin kit on my 1950 truck. Followed their instructions to a T. Scrubbed all flaking off, scuffed with a maroon scotch pad, washed it twice. Washed it again with their supplied gray pad. Then used the wax/oil remover. I let it dry completely, wiped it down with a terry cloth before applying with their supplied applicator. It streaked horribly. Spent a couple hours the next day scuffing, wiped it down again and it streaked again…. Not impressed - especially with the cost. I guess I’m sanding it off and going a different direction.

Tune a sniper.... ????? oh know dont say tune...!!!!! Dont say TUNE...!!!! OMG, sales are dropping as i text this. Were these not sold claiming a self tune..?? Or it learns..??? Brasewell sells EFI delete kits on there site if you want to get back to keeping it Simple and reliable.

Please learn to stop filming when you're fidgeting around with stuff in boxes.

I'm looking at going with the aces EFI setup. Seems to be pretty interesting, just like the sniper

Apply that AFR Guage to a carb setup, learn, tune, and the mpg and all the power u can make is available with the ol carb.

I've have a sniper stealth on my Windsor for two years. It's been fine, but if it ever fails, I'll just throw the old carb back on, along with a Carb Cheater. I have a 750 brawler mech secondary with a Carb Cheater on the 429 in my Fairlane, and it runs great.

Me too. 👍

Msd atomic also junk. Built in map sensor broke. Can't change it, glued in place

I was a carb guy all my life until 2018, I never liked the idea of relying on electronics to get me where I wanted to go. Then I bought my first Sniper and (5) snipers later I don’t own a single carburetor vehicle. Not only do they all run better, They get better mileage, Make more average HP……But my biggest pro is ZERO fuel boiling issues on those Hot Summer days. Tuning a metered fuel leak aka (Carburetor) is a challenge especially if you trip drive (which I do) with my Hot Rods and Sleds……With the Sniper those problems don’t exist. I have a 49 Olds sled with a Blue Print 400 SBC with a 700R4 in the car and went from a best of 15 MPG 356 HP to the rear tire to a whopping 19 MPG and 368 HP to the rear tire. $ well spent

If I can run a 1970 CB450 with a OEM truck ECU, you can make it work on this Ford. If you want to stay distributor, it'll do it; if you want coil per plug, it'll do it. $50 OBDLink SX and the free software Universal Patcher. Changes everything HPTuners can. "Why re-invent the wheel?" Well, that's the only thing you would need to "invent", for the crank sensor. I have videos showing my crank sensor setup, and then demoing it with a hamfisted crap tune hitting 8K RPM. Search "(P59 + CB450)" and you'll find it. Always read video descriptions for more info.

New sub. My two favorite trucks I have owned were a 67, 390, manual valve body, F100 and a stockish 76 1/2, 400, c6. I like where you're going with this.

The parts confused me to is it the same as 8 ounces to 1 ounce ?🤣

Wrong applicator

rear end ????????????????????????????

What wheels are those? I have a 77 f100 they would look good on.

What qa1 kit did you use on the front-end the 3-5 or the 5-7 in drop?

I knew I was missing something 😂😂

I have two ‘67s with the “economy heater” option. One switch on the dash, on and off, and you reached under the dash to move a arm from “heat”(floor), and “defrost”.

What wheels are those?

Do you remember the depth of the bellhousing that you used?

Mine wouldn't start. Having trouble with the anti theft after putting a new used engine and transmission back in