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I've had it happen a few times. Doesn't take much for them to get bent and touch the rotor. Have had stones get caught on calipers as well

Thanks Jac, hope you have a great Christmas as well.

@morrison1405 There is not one. The coil pack is what would be a distributor on an older vehicle.

@JWCMotorsports My old Neon doesn't like to start at the slightest cold weather like 35 degrees. I was wondering about moisture problems with fuel delivery and, or ignition system. Thanks!

@morrison1405 make sure the battery is good. Any maintenance not up to date

@@JWCMotorsports Battery is tip top. It just won't turn over.

@morrison1405 no response from the starter? No crank as we call it.

I let it sit about 15 minutes with the degreaser on. Then rinsed off and dried the plastic pants before applying the Mudslinger. About 30-45 minutes total.

Yes

Up to that event the changes were, Redshift Motorsports BC Comp 12/10 coil overs, rear strut bracing, 2006 STi front control arms, whiteline front and rear anti-sway bars. running Falken RT600 on Method MR501 17x8 wheels, 2004 Subaru outback rear LSD, AC delete (complete), weight reduction in the rear, whiteline bushings in all suspension areas, Group N motor and transmission mount, Vermont Sports Car transmission pitch stop. M-PACT 6-Puck performance clutch kit. GrimmSpeed Intake Manifold Phenolic Spacer - 8mm, header and flowmaster muffler.

In the 5 years since this video, I've invested in a couple impact wrenches. My electric ratch has earned its cost back. Also since this video, I went to school for automotive technology, got certified, and opened a shop. I'm typically to busy now to do any videos but I appreciate the positive feedback.

Where is you shop located, I may need to bring you some work.

@@jamesferguson1054 Idaho

I'm running Signature Series 5W-30 I have not rebuilt this engine yet and it's not turbo charged.

correct and no leaking.

@@JWCMotorsports sweet

Do you have an automotive stethoscope you could use to isolate the sound? Or a long screwdriver held to the transmission and your ear can work. What I have done is use the above to try and isolate the location of the noise. At the rear of the tail shaft are 2 bearings, one for the output shaft and the other for the transfer gear shaft (which goes into the center diff) on the front of the tail housing would be the center diff bearing on the bottom and the front bearing for the output (transfer gear) shaft. If the noise is in that area it would be the center diff, why you don't necessarily hear it with it up is the wheels do not have to rotate at different rates under load (like on the ground while turning. Backing and turning will pick up the binding center diff really well.

You can do it with just the front up, but removing the exhaust and drive shaft is easier with all for up. Or lift each end as needed and then keep the front up to remove the center diff.

@JWCMotorsports the reason why I don't think it's the transmission gears themselves is because it makes the noise in all gears while in curves or quickly accelerating. It will do it while coasting in all gears as well, but not as much, and only when not going straight.

While in reverse, and turning it would pop, as it got worse it would have going forward.

10 Newton Meters or 89 INCH pounds

I just checked it again. It still shows as correct for the 8HP70. I have had similar problems with the AMAZON confirmed fit on other parts.

It wasn't a replaceable filter, and I considered tearing it out of the pan to inspect.

There is a bearing on the small end of the center differential, it was noisy, I was having a binding and popping sound that was more noticeable during turns in reverse.

There is no fill tube like what you would find on older transmissions.

@@JWCMotorsports I never even noticed .I just assumed. You are right .Mine doesn't have it either .

You are right, thank you.

Correct, there is one on the front side of the tail extension. But on the cover there isn't any, you can find an optional one on Subaru parts but every Subaru 5mt I've taken apart has not had any gasket on the cover. And no silicone either.

That could be a CV Axle or the transmission. If you can look at the axles on both sides behind the wheels you should be able to see if they are out of alignment. As for the transmission, is it automatic or manual?

@@JWCMotorsports aww thank you for responding we ended up selling the vehicle but thank you so much !

I've ordered mine from Red Shift Motorsports, and from what I know yes, 02 WRX Wagon and TS will interchange just fine.

Thank you for the feedback, this was before I had my own shop. There was a radio station playing and I had to cut the sound from my video and instead of no sound I put on royalty free music from RUclips.

I would recommend doing the service. I don't know your location, so I can't say if your dealership or reputable shop would be better or follow the bulletin procedure. Most small shops I know of will do right for the customer. I have friends that work at dealerships and it's 50/50 who will do the double check and who will not. As for the sparkplugs, yes all 16 need/should be replaced at the same time. It's the waste-spark systems so each is used. Using a high quality long life plug extends the cost pain but it should be done.

And why I try to do videos showing it can be done for much less and just as well if not better. And that 227 if just less than half what I got paid for doing front and rear differential, transmission, transfer case and engine oil/filter on a Ford F250.

Yes I did,

@@JWCMotorsports Okie dokie, thank you!

Thanks.

Correct there are drains on the front and rear axles. Good luck and thanks for subscribing.

I just went over 101,120 miles and that is about 50k.miles using AMSOIL in the transmission and transfer case. With about 75% of those pulling a trailer hauling a vehicle. It's been running great, have had no issues and the temperature of the transmission while towing has always been below 200°F even during the heat of the summer. Mileage usually is around 13mpg towing and my towing always involves a lot of elevation changes.

ZF has called out several manufactures that have transmission fluid that meet the requirements of ZF 8 fluid. For example Dodge/RAM calls for MOPAR® ZF 8&9 Speed ATF™ Automatic Transmission Fluid in the service manual, part number 68218925AA this is not ZF fluid but a fluid that meets the requirements. Same goes for AMSOIL Fuel Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid that I put into my transmission, it meets or exceeds the requirements ZF has established. As for shortening the life of the transmission, this can be the result of many things to include using a fluid that does not meet the standards, such as using standard automatic transmission fluid.

What parts added.... That's hard to say. Getting the engine working and not leaking started. The engine mounts and transmission mounts, and most if not all bushes need to be updated, they will help to get what power you make to the tires. Too much movement and you loose a lot of it. Tires, are one of the biggest as they get the power down, how you turn and how you brake, if the tires don't do their job not else matters that much. Maintenance, always check the oil, and transmission fluid. Change all fluids, Coolant, Brake Fluid, power steering fluid, Differential oil, they are often forgot about. What kind of racing do you want to get into. Autocross? track? Where are you? Email me and I can get you more information dallas.croft@jwcmotorsports.com

@@JWCMotorsports Idaho Falls area. Good to know about the bushings. I honestly wanted to get into drifting, though AWD makes that dream nigh-impossible. Oh well, it's a good enough car to learn manual on and move onward from there.

No, not for the push type. It can stay in.

It used the knuckle, hub, bearing, and all the brake components (hose and parking brake cable as well) from a 2004 Subaru Impreza wagon that was a 4 wheel disk brake car. I still need to get a brake proportioning valve for disk brake upgrade as the drum valve puts more early pressure towards the rear.

Thanks

I provided a followup video that I reshoot some of the parts not included in this video. ruclips.net/video/5MIJzw_nHN4/видео.html

Very effective recycling. Keeping the older vehicles running.

In this video I'm replacing an automatic transmission mount. It is different than the manual transmission mount.

Replace all but belt idler No. 2. (the one on the bottom). After getting the belt lined up, Install belt idler No. 2. It should do fine to pull up the belt as you install it, be careful not to cross thread the bolt.

Thanks. I’ve been having trouble getting it on with the geared pulley installed too

Thanks and thank you, however that fuse will only work on an automatic transmission, and this one has the 5-speed manual transmission. I parked it until I could get around to replacing it (luckily I had other vehicles to drive). Just last week replaced the clutch, clutch release bearing, and pilot bearing with just under 189,000 miles. Thanks again for watching.

I did as well on my 2004 Outback when removing the transmission. Replaced with a little bit longer and heavier gauge one. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the question. I had some nose coming from that area, but it was not bad. The issue that necessitated the replacement was when it started to bind while backing and turning (out of a parking spot). Hope that helps.

the viscous coupling goes bad and causes torque binding. if you cannot replace in timely manner just get a fuse and stick it in the FWD slot in your fuse box and will disable awd if you have issues skipping when steering

@@blueresonantmonkey3188 Thank you however that fuse will only work on an automatic transmission, and this one has the 5-speed manual transmission. I parked it until I could get around to replacing it (luckily I had other vehicles to drive). Just last week replaced the clutch, clutch release bearing, and pilot bearing with just under 189,000 miles. Thanks again for watching.

Any of them are unsafe it not used properly. I have used several types of strut compressors, cheap harbor freight, parts store loaner and $1000 big units. For entry into the process with ease of use I found this one works for me the best (it is not the only one I have but the easiest to setup and use).

Only on suspension parts have I just replaced the bushing, to much pain for the gain on mounts. Also consider the cam position sensor. It can start to leak and get into the connector (not common but can happen).

The hose will get hard and not seal, creating a vacuum leak. Check all the vacuum lines and replace a necessary.

Dude, quit complaining... Believe it or not...the neon is the easiest car to work on...

Excellent is FREE. Likely a 40K used truck which I paid less brand new than that. (Laramie Package, which is similar but Longhorn does have a few more options than the Laramie) If you enjoy it then it is a good deal indeed.

Free usually has issues. Have had a few people ask about some Ford F150s they were looking at (Triton motor). Cheap, around 100k miles (needed a tune up). Triton spark plugs will break easily and if done wrong cost thousands of dollars to fix.

Glad you enjoyed it!

True, just make sure the trunk is closed. That little light will drain the battery overnight. Or LED upgrade it.

Ignition coil connector www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2004,neon,2.0l+l4,1424595,electrical-connector,ignition+coil+connector,2592