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It seems like auto makers build to cover 60% of the country and leave those of us in the rust belt to fend for ourselves. Also, I'd love to see some attention placed on fasteners. Rusty bolts are an all to common problem on vehicles older than 5 years.

Wow, that's cool! Thanks Mate! I spent a couple weeks in Sydney about 20 years ago for work. What part of the country are you from?

I'm from around the Brisbane area.

Thanks! It's so good to see the body in one color. I have rattle canned some body panels before, but never used a spray gun or used epoxy primer on a truck. Fortunately, my buddy has and if you noticed, he's the one handling the spray gun. I've maintained from the beginning I just want a decent farm implement grade paint job, probably not much different from what it had when it left the factory. I bet yours will turn out great.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE I believe you are right on sanding out the runs. And we will be doing a lot of sanding when we get to the high build stage next.

Thanks! You are right about the work leading up to primer. We've been at rust repair and body work since late last summer.

Glad to have helped in a little way. Go for it!

@@That_Burgundy_6.7Yes I was able to fix it. It was the idler gear between the starter and the flywheel. Read thru the comments of this video and you will see all the details. Thanks to @E_Hun_Dun for coming up with the solution.

@ ok thank you, where did you happen to find another starter idle gear

@4x4tundra80 I found a good used one on eBay for about $16.

@ ok thanks man

I was born and raised here. I think even people who move here from warmer climates get used to it.

@@thierryfaou277 Thanks! We'll see how it goes when we get to the paint stage.

@@deancoley7987 Thanks! I'm learning as I go. This was the last of the welding work on the body. On to body filler, sanding, body filler, sanding and hopefully primer & paint. I really want to move on to reassembly before I forget where everything goes.

I appreciate that Zane! It's actually the first time I've used the thin wheels. I wish I had bought some a lot earlier.

Thanks so much for the nice comment and for watching my videos. I hope all my hacks on this truck are going to do the job and hold up well. Time will tell...

@@TheToolmanTim I believe the proper term for my actions would be intellectual copyright infringement 😳

Thanks! I've seen some guys use the squared off trailer fenders. They have the right shape.

Thanks! I'm glad I had some trashed spare fenders to cut up.

Thanks. No green screen. The process is called stop motion. I used my cell phone to record the segments using Stop Motion Studio and a cheap bluetooth shutter control to snap each picture. It's a slow, tedious process where I move the bolt just a bit, snap a picture, move it again, snap a picture and so on. Stop Motion Studio makes it a little easier to snap all the pictures and then it creates a video segment from the pictures. After that I use Shotcut on my computer to assemble all my segments into a complete video.

Thank you for answering ! I was thinking how you were dring it. It's a lot of work ! Bravo @😊

You're up early for a Saturday! Thanks Matt. Looking forward to working on the next episode with you.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE It's always fun to make one of these videos with Matt.

@@guyst.martin4378 Thanks for providing the opening narration.

Thanks Zane! I think I got the worst of the hood nailed. Hopefully primer and paint will go on smooth. I'd give the surface cleaner a B- grade. The stripping drums are expensive and don't last that long. It works good for stripping paint over a large flat area, but doesn't do as well on rust pits. I prefer the paint stripping discs on my 4 1/2" grinder. They work better and a 10 pack of strip discs cost just a little more than 1 drum for the surface cleaner.

@TheToolmanTim I was thinking of getting one, so I will keep that in mind. Thanks 😎👍

@@davevanatta1965 I could have done that or just drill out the spot welds and pull the whole brace off. Hind sight....

Anytime I start working on a body panel and find myself whining about the rust and dents that need to be fixed, I think about the state of your truck when you started and I'm done with my complaints.

The stud welder was a definite win for the project. We used it on the cab, door and hood to get at some unreachable dents.

Believe it or not I just sold the tailgate to a guy who lives nearby just a couple days ago. He's working on a 61 Travelette.

I'm glad you found my videos helpful. Keep in mind though, I'm no expert, just another hack messing around in my pole barn.

Thanks! I'm glad most of the complicated parts are down low on the inside edge out of sight.

@@markrallen2 Thanks Mark! Been working hard on it with lots of help from my buddy Guy.

Thanks! You can be sure I'll handle the door glass like a new born baby after seeing your mishap.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE Thanks Zane! I'm still chipping away at the body work.

Thanks! Capturing the door adjustment would have been tough. It was basically a couple amateurs going back and forth between hinge mounts for what seemed like an eternity. Glad you're enjoying the series. I'll keep plugging away through the winter and posting videos as much as I can.

Thanks! I've been at this project since January. It's like eating an elephant. I try to knock out something every few days to keep the progress going.

I appreciate the comment Zane. It's worth the extra work to do the job right. I got lucky when I put three point belts into my 67 International. It already had a threaded anchor in the door post, so all I had to do was bolt things in.

Now that is a genius idea. It would sure make adjusting the height a snap and probably something a guy could do with one hand.

@@tumbleweed_garage The gauges were budget friendly at just a little over $100 for the pair. I had the choice of black or white faces.

@@Stephen-ou4sy Thanks. The gps speedo makes for a pretty simple install.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE Thanks Zane. I'm happy with the look too. I knew I needed new gauges and wanted something that didn't look too modern.

I believe a Desmond was considered a solid quality vise in its day. The advantage of an old vise is knowing the materials and construction are far better than what you find in a newer one. As with any 50+ year old tool, condition varies greatly. Mine for instance had led a hard life probably in a shop where it was used every day. The jaw alignment left a little to be desired probably due to wear and tear.

@@eliteentertainment7268 1980 530

I've already gotten a lot of use out of mine. That's great info. Thanks.

Raybuck.com. I was happy with all the panels.

Makes sense. I'll be hooking it up when I rewire the truck.

It's in rough shape, but I think I can recoup my costs and a little more. Also, it's nice to have a truck on hand that hasn't been modified as a reference as I put mine back together.

Most 50 to 54 had a full seat.

Thanks for the info. The truck I'm restoring came with a full seat and I'm thinking I'll stay with that one.

Good to know. Thanks for dropping the comment with that info. I'll have to see about the bulb. I'm converting the truck to 12V so I'm not sure the 6V bulb will work or if it does, not sure it will last more than a few seconds.

@@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE Appreciate the encouragement Zane. I'm officially done with welding on the cab. On to getting it in shape for primer and paint.

I had a few dents and one small hole to patch. I was going to give it a good scuff and get some primer on it. I was surprised when my buddy, Guy, stripped to down to bare metal. He's good at keeping me from taking too many short cuts.

I'm assuming you want dimensions for the cab mount points. 36 3/4" across front mounts, 50" across rear mounts, 47 1/2" between front and rear mounts. If you haven't seen it yet, check out my Part 3 video where I build the cart. I built the cart frame on the floor using plumb lines from each cab mount to determine the overall shape. ruclips.net/video/r5IxFVkW_-w/видео.html I added rear extensions to the cart later to protect the lower rear panel from denting when I roll the cab over on its back. If you're anywhere near central Minnesota, the cart will be up for grabs when I finish the cab work and get it back on the truck frame.

@@kjohn1626 1 - cost. Premade run $200 each side. I paid less than $50 for a 4x4 sheet of 18ga steel. 2- The premade panels don't wrap up the tunnel, so I would have had to do that work on my own. 3 - Floors get covered up. You can get away with more hackery than with the visible body panels.

@@TheToolmanTim I'm a master of hackery. Your floors turned out great, by the way.