Видео

Hi, as PWM DC controller I use this inexpensive board, up to 3A works perfectly for me and includes a reversible direction selector simplifying the wiring: es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006916367256.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2esp Also look here, where you have a diagram of the connections: www.printables.com/es/model/702311-compact-3d-printed-toroidal-coil-winder

@@prouting7333 the PWM driver is exactly the same model like the one I am using. Oh in the left of the pin #2 of the CD4538 there is a POT 1M, its a trim potential 1M isn't it? can you share a picture of the final circuit of yours please? a million thanks for your help.

@@riffcorp Hi, I just added some pictures of the circuit to printables if helps you. www.printables.com/es/model/702311-compact-3d-printed-toroidal-coil-winder Note that the circuit has two potentiometers to the 4538 (dual monostable). The 1Megohm (pin2) regulates the pulse time T1 of the mosfet that goes to the 7rpm motor of the toroid (it controls the spacing between turns). The second is a 100Kohm trimmer (pin14) for the adjustment of the pulse time T2 and is needed to create a minimum pulse drive to the DH48 Digital Counter (I have seen that some DH48 need a slightly wider pulse)

Awesome, this is perfect. A million thanks man, you rock!

May I ask the connection detail of the 3 pins of the Pot 1M and the RV100K please?

For me it has a good price-performance ratio. It is light, compact and has a good grip. It has some backslash but I have not seen any effects.

@@prouting7333 alright thank you

Thanks, I'm glad you found it interesting

I find the HGX lite V2 with more grip than the LGX lite. In addition, the motor that comes with the HGX can go up to 1A current without a problem, giving it more torque and increasing the flow and therefore the speed. They both have a very close weight. Currently I have the A1 bambu hotend of this mod installed but I find the X1 hotend clone better. www.printables.com/es/model/829694-bambu-a1-hotend-flsun-sr-lgx-lite-direct-drive

@@prouting7333 wow 🤩 that’s kind of neat! 🙌. Cool 👍. Easy attach detach hot end? Wow, about the fan I like to ditch it too. All of them. With ducting like yours very good idea. Cut out the messy wires. Only I can’t find a way to switch on/off part cooling & heatbreak cooling constant on. I also bought extra heat element to heat from both sides of the bambu rectangular heat block. The heater is thin n take no space maybe might speed up heating. What duct are you using and what fan. I be using a 3.5” radial. Can’t find a flex smooth inner duct for the mod yet. Thanks for sharing ❤️your setup 👍. Let’s match up V400 , 😂 ha. Maybe u already did

@@Jim_One-wl4ke The A1 hotend is easy to put on and take off and quite accurate in the z-offset every time you replace it, but I still prefer the X1 clone and replacing its nozzle is not complicated. Two heaters at the same time? I had not thought of it 😀

hi, You must have the new Anleon S2 that has a group knob and a channel knob on the transmitter. Mine is one of the old ones that didn't have the group knob and only has 6 channels. Although mine is different, the new system must be understood as 36 channels. Six for each group

​@@prouting7333thank you. But I do not have transmitter. I just bought receiver to combine it with hama and Denn headphones that work on 863-865. But hama transmitter channels are slightly different from s2r receiver channels programmed in unit. So I wonder, can I somehow reprogram a chip on s2r to a slightly different channels.... Do you have ideas?)))))

Thanks. If you are referring to the electrical connectors. They are "SM 2.54" Male Plug Connector 2pin

thanks

Up to 400 speed with cooling limitation by the original layer fan for short printing perimeters. 200 speed for prints quality

hello bondtech has changed the version of the LGX Lite to V2. I think the assembly is compatible with V1, which is mine. www.bondtech.se/product/lgx-lite-v2-large-gears-extruder/ You will need the hotend, I have installed this bamboo clone (kit L) that comes complete es.aliexpress.com/item/1005005982484633.html?spm=a2g0o If you do not want to cut the original SR wires you will need two 2-pin SM female connectors es.aliexpress.com/item/1005005696918325.html?spm=a2g0o I bought it in colors here: www.ebay.es/itm/234526442678?var=534129139806 for the printed parts you need brass inserts M3x3x4.5 es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004629314742.html?spm=a2g0o See here for assembly and photo details www.printables.com/es/model/702310-flsun-sr-with-bambu-and-lgx-lite-extruder Also you will need to change extruder steps (marlin) or rotation distance (klipper) and extruder current to 0.6-0.7A

Thx my friend ! You still use it ? No problem with this upgrade ?

Yes, I still use it, it works quite well. Although now I'm using this one which is cheaper and works surprisingly well. www.printables.com/es/model/702308-flsun-sr-hgx-20-bambu-direct-drive-extruder I have two effectors assembled, one with the lgx and one with the hgx. In the sr it is very quick and easy to exchange it

Did you get the Kit "L" for p1p or x1? The "for P1P" models are out of stock.@@prouting7333

hi I am now in the process of klipperizing the SR, I am new to klipper and I have not measured resonances with the adxl345 yet. Until now I did all the tests with marlin. With Marlin I have tested the HGX Lite up to 400 speed and 10K acceleration (200/5K with great finish). The motor current has reached up to 1.6A but it is not recommended because it gets very hot, up to 1A it works fine. advantages and disadvantages: Apart from the price compared to an LGX Lite, it is certainly light, compact and I see good grip with the filament, for me better than that of the LGX and Sherpa. It seems robust but since it is metallic, the motor heat is transmitted and can soften the filament, especially with PLA. The center of gravity with the bambu is low, near the effector and the vibrations appear to be controlled. The finishes of the prints are consistent. Maybe there is some clearance in the gears and I see backlash in the retractions, I have them at 0.5mm

Have you checked that it is not the hotend that is opposing? If you connect the LGX Lite extruder separately from the hotend and start it by heating the hotend, could you check if the filament slips, lacks grip and is it a problem with the LGX Lite, its gears or something like that?

@@prouting7333 it’s been a while since I tried putting it on there but just extruding manually it was fine. When I would try printing something the purge line was always uneven and the prints never looked right. Always like it was under extruding.

Can you hear the motor losing steps? Do you have the current and steps/rotation distance adjusted?

Hello Sergio The "muting" effect that you mention from what I have investigated is produced by an excess of audio in the transmitting equipment. In the first video I made, I modified and put a potentiometer to be able to adjust the audio and minimize this effect and saturation. To compensate for this you will have to increase the audio on the receiver. I will explain in simple terms how the AnleonS2 works as far as I have been able to deduce: The transmitter equipment has an audio preamplifier stage at the input, at its output it branches on one side to the headphone amplifier and on the other hand takes it to an audio compressor. This is where I decided to insert the potentiometer of the first "mod". The output of the compressor passes through low-pass filters to the radio frequency part in the UHF band that is shielded. The transmission is FM stereo analog broadband similar to the commercial band. This can be checked using an SDR receiver tuning to the UHF band. The receiving equipment does the opposite, at the output of the RF and demodulator part, instead of a compressor, it has an "expander" that also acts as a noise gate. This mutes when there is no audio from the transmitter to eliminate background noise. Do not confuse this "noise gate" (which I have also modified in another video) with the cause of the muting effect due to excess audio. I suspect this muting effect is due to excessive audio modulation in the transmitter and the receiver loses the RF signal. The solution to the effect that I have found is to reduce the audio that enters the transmitter, if you do not want to put any potentiometer you can do it at the output of the mixer console, or with an attenuator. It is also better to filter with some low-pass EQ to somewhat attenuate the treble before it enters the transmitter. Sometimes the muting effect is caused by the "Hihat" or some peak of the percussion of the mix that you send to the transmitter. If you have knowledge of electronics and do not want to open the equipment, you can make a small box with a stereo potentiometer and make a passive "RC" low-pass filter circuit. Sorry for the long reply, I hope it helps.

@@prouting7333 Perfectly! I understood correctly. I work with a digital console, and this allowed me to apply 2 high-pass and low-pass filters in addition to a limiter against excess signal at the transmitter input. Now the equipment is working properly without interruptions. Thank you very much.

Hi. Of course you can do it, it is currently the one I am using with the Superracer with good results. You have photos of how it is assembled and stl models here: www.printables.com/es/model/702308-flsun-sr-hgx-bambu-direct-drive

Hello, I am using this Chinese bamboo clone, this is the kit that marks model "2.0 Kit B", I changed the connectors for the "SM" ones that the SR has. One PID adjustment and that's it: es.aliexpress.com/item/1005005982484633.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.107.1041194d7KKxni&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp

@@prouting7333 hank you my friend, it's very kind of you to answer me. I had this kit, I installed it ;) on the other hand, the nozzle is higher and I can't go down as much when using the babystep, I'm on klipper, I have to find the solution ;) even in doing my zoffset, when I print, the nozzle is much too high.

I'm on marlin and recalibrating z height works perfectly. By the way, the height of the nozzle is at the limit to use the bed level probe support, I remove it after doing so and thus remove support weight

@@prouting7333 Hello, thank you again for your response ;) I did not have the probe and the cartridge for this hotends, I ordered it. I succeeded by adapting another probe temporarily, however, I think I will review the ventilation, my klipper is cut off because the nozzle cools too quickly when it is turned on. There is a small flaw in the design, the large part is not glued well in the center and there is a gap between it and the fans which causes the air to cool down too much ;). Thanks again for your help my friend.

@@prouting7333 Anglais I forgot to ask you, if I give you my email, can you send me photos of your installation? (especially below ;), thank you in advance even if you can't.

The ic brand was erased. But indeed the pin out and the components around it makes me suspect that it is the SA/NE571 compandor

Hi, Thanx @flemmingandersen420 Yes, finally I only use a single potentiometer, which I place where I remove the 0 ohm resistors at minute 4:02. In the third part of the video mod, instead of the second potentiometer at the compressor output, I replaced it with two fixed resistors. ruclips.net/video/uUCSC1t3-rg/видео.html There you will see clearly where the input potentiometer and the resistors are located. If you are interested in modifying the receiver, I leave you this other mod in which I change the behavior: ruclips.net/video/MdTGPOTmY-k/видео.html

Thank you. It is certainly a piece of equipment that I have not seen modified. I would also like to eliminate the annoying muting effect when a certain audio level is exceeded in peak. Regards

now this would be grade... recently upgraded to an ld system cause of that annoying mute effect when peaking... if you need a device to try things on lmk!@@prouting7333

Hi Unfortunately removing the compression in the transmitter does not have a good result. The result is a gated sound. The clipping diodes that are on the operational input are not the problem. I advise you to attenuate the input level with the potentiometer MOD and if you want to add a capacitor in parallel for example 1nF to attenuate the high frequencies, that could help to reduce that muting effect

Hi Unfortunately removing the compression in the transmitter does not have a good result. The result is a gated sound. The clipping diodes that are on the operational input are not the problem. I advise you to attenuate the input level with the potentiometer MOD and if you want to add a capacitor in parallel for example 1nF to attenuate the high frequencies, that could help to reduce that muting effect

@@prouting7333 thanks for so fast reply. Actually i can't resolve the issue. When i send metal track from audio interface to the S2 there is no problem. Headphones are so loud that i can't listen to the music. But when i use it on stage it can drop the sound for 2 sec just when drummer hits hihat before song starts. And yes, usually i reduse mix bus level to -10 or -12 db and I'm not sure why i need this mod, if i can change input level on the mixer. As i mention the problem is that s2 "hears" some frequencies louder and goes to mute/protect mode.

@@ganz_solo It is not exactly the same to lower dB at the input than the attenuation that the mod does. The potentiometer is after a previous stage that has its headroom limited by power supply (+-6V) and clipping diodes. If the transmitter's own headphone output is too loud you will be overloading the compressor stage in the transmitter. Try to lower the signal you deliver to the transmitter input more and increase the volume in receivers if you need it. If you can also equalize the signal of mix bus that you deliver to the transmitter, cut treble especially from 12-15Khz, there is another defect if you exceed this frequency the stereo deteriorates significantly

@@prouting7333 yeah, i always set reciever to max and send lowest possible input signal on mix bus. cut little bit of high freqs. Maybe i'll try your, becuse it's the last chance. Thank you!

Hello Jim. Here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5553059

Thanks Claudio. I haven't done any mods with wireless microphones but I'm sure it could😁

Thanks for feedback enjoy it

Hi! Check out this other video ruclips.net/video/uUCSC1t3-rg/видео.html There I tried to bypass the compressor but the result is not satisfactory because the sound becomes gated

What is better to add a potentiometer at the input of the compressor and ratio modified. In this other video you have a sound test after the modification. Regards ruclips.net/video/DEtdncwwA84/видео.html

Thank you I have read that the Anleon S3 has sensitivity control in the menu. In some tests the sound seems similar to the S2. I don't own the S3, it would be nice to see some photos of the electronics inside. In the channel data you have an email address if you want to send. Regards

Glad it works for you. Thanks for your feedback

Thanks Mark. You must have some practice for soldering on small components. You need: Potentiometer B20K es.aliexpress.com/item/33055577453.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2esp Cable shielded 30AWG 3Cores es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001460352780.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2esp Some Knobs es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004331673820.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2esp In a second part I do a test how it sounds with the modification and a schematic ;)

There is a good Flsun super racer facebook group with a very active community where you can solve problems. facebook.com/groups/336951057403890

​@@prouting7333 no one is using Facebook these days, any telegram or other group available?

Yes, it would have been nice to show the full print. It was just to show the vision of the print from the nozzle perspective

the finished product is this amazing nozzle view

It is plexiglass (Acrylic clear sheet) Can be easily cut with plastic hook cutter Sheet measurements: 655x115mm and 2.5mm Thick I use clear tape for panel seams

Updated: Add splitted parts for smaller printers. Now it is possible to print it in the SR itself ;) I have printed it on a Creality CR10 diagonally. But someone has done a remix of my design splitting the piece in two. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5687985

To print better ABS, ASA, Nylon... If you only want PLA or PETG it is not necessary

The hinges are attached to the printer tower profiles with 25mm M3 bolts screws and Nut drop T-slot. Simply slotted into the hole on one side both enclosure parts, from below at the bottom part and above at the top part. You can put some grease on the pivot to make it turn smooth

@@prouting7333 Thxs a lot for the info great parts,prints turned out great I had to split in two peace and print as the bed on the sr not big enough. I’d like to learn how to make dove tails for future peace’s but I just straight sliced and glued together with pa glue I am only two weeks into learning about 3d printing. Thxs again

@@dirtops8905 👍

I'm sorry I don't have v400 but in the thingiverse link you have step files to be able to be manipulated. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5553059/files

You can download models here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5553059

Es una CR10 S4 con extrusión directa tipo BMG y V6. Una mini cámara USB modificada la lente.