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@@BV-Auto I'm impressed. Since retightening the nose screws a few months ago, it has performed flawlessly...at home. I do use it frequently, but I'm curious how long one would survive in an automotive shop. If you try that, you'll want the fast charger and at least one 4ah battery.

@@AndyPowell-bx5gp the battery has no extra space! You'll see what was changed in production, just the terminal location & about 1mm extra padding on the bottom of the Litheli. The terminal block only needed to be moved about 15mm. I did need to split the chainsaw case, to do that, but looking inside was 8) Lots of cool stuff, but be careful everything stays where it needs to. I didn't have (or accidentally cause) any trouble, but I'm unnaturally lucky at electromechanical stuff. i took lots of pictures with my (old) phone as soon as I opened it, to make sure everything stayed the same. I accidentally destroyed that phone, so they art gone. I recommend you do the same.

@@aaronb483 I have never seen any Litheli products at walk-in stores locally. HF discontinued Lynxx shortly after I bought the saw. i searched the interwebs until I found a saw exactly like my Lynxx, except different colors. I took a chance & bought the battery pack in this video. i know nothing about Litheli.

@@Iowa599 online only. Walmart. And I think Amazon

I'm glad I could help!

@@jagco2594 ruclips.net/video/DKeq8MG4RB4/видео.htmlsi=8HPXqultCTiY-dOC

@@Iowa599 I have the weed eater, the saw, the blower, and the, bush cutter. I'm down to 1 battery.

@@lgoamity To check the filter, remove the oil cap with the engine idling & cover the hole with your hand. There should be a slight vacuum

@@Iowa599 Not sure if each system is a little different but I thought (On my GMC Terrain's Ecotec 2.4L, at least) there is meant to be "slight pressure" from the Oil Cap hole vs a Vacuum (so it might "float" or rattle a bit if I loosen it?). On the PVC/Air Box side where "PCV Air" is fed back into the Engine If I disconnect from the Air Box/Baffle Side there should be a slight Vacuum there if the PCV system isn't clogged. Similarly If I remove the entire hose and place a piece of paper over the now open port feeding into the top of the Engine... it should be strong enough to keep the Paper held in place while the Engine is idling and PCV isn't clogged...

Now that write it out, if I do try this gas filter trick... I'm going to have to make sure the filter Media won't cause too much air flow restrictions. Was thinking one with a fine mesh screen vs a paper/cellulose that might tend to throw fibers or the pressure/vacuum eventually collapses the filter media

@@lgoamity probly, I used the cheapest paper filters, the biggest the store had. Right now it is bigger than in the video. I just needed to cut the factory hose, not add or replace. i did heat the hose a bit, because it was 6mm hose going over a 1/4" filter barb. Maybe you can get metric filters, idk.

@@Iowa599 I know for my Ecotec that various people trying the Catch Can option replace the Factory PCV hose with longer rubber hoses to/from the Can... Figure if I end up running anything I might just buy a "spare" hose kit so I can just swap on demand if needed (between factory and "filtered" mode)

@@arnoldjobbagy1637 works for me

@@arnoldjobbagy1637 the cutting edge needs to have all burs removed, and it should be a very crisp edge. Make sure your stone is very flat. There is a limit to how worn the unibit can get, but I've always broken them before getting there. idk what your situation is, but I know this works. I have sharpened all of my "unibits", which are all cheap junk from HF.

@@walterzwicker-bv9dg idk, I didn't have any, and no local sources did, but I had lumber, screws, and plumbing tape, so it cost me $0.

@@walterzwicker-bv9dg nah, the only place where I used plumber's tape is not stressed when using it. Its only there to hold my riser while positioning the ladder. as, for the wood foots vs foam pads, the wood is flat to the roof, so weight is not on a corner. It has a very large contact patch, like ~4.5"x~7" (x2), so you would need a very large foam tube to get lower psi on the shingles

You weren't able to move the cell pack from the Litheli pack to the Lynx case?

@@Iowa599 I was not the inside was different

I took them both apart, but years apart, so I didn't notice that! iirc, the Lithelli pack did have cell balancing, but the Lynxx did not. Might as well make the tool fit Lithelli batteries, it's better & Lynxx aren't available.

@@Iowa599 what's strange is, I did try the Lynxx battery in the Lithelli charger ( at Harbor Fraight store) before I bought the battery and it fit . I was thing this is going to be a prefect fit even though the ebay add said its will not for Lynxx tools.

@@racingrobert1 I have never seen Lithelli tools (irl)! i needed a battery for my saw & hunted for a saw that looked like mine but was different colors, because I know harbor freight re-badges stuff. Then I took my chances on eBay!

i switched to Hart, from Walmart, because anywhere else is 1 hour, or more, from my new house. This Lithelli/Lynxx thing keeps going, though! I have used the hell out of it, felled dozens of trees & chopped several truck loads of firewood! harbor freight probly just sold them long enough to reverse engineer the brushless tech for Hercules crap.

I wish that was gravel dust! The rear bumper was repainted, before I got the car, that is all clear coat oxidation. It doesn't come off!

The strange part, about the Prelude, is knowing which Accord generation for which part. This latch is from a 6g, but most (of the 5g Prelude) is actually 5g Accord.

It's factree.

I was never a student, I just spent years partying in Iowa City...ah, the memories I can't remember...

I think so, but I realized I only have one Lynxx battery case, so I'd only have one battery forever. If I made the Lithelli battery fit, replacements would be more easily available. i think the Lynxx will still work, but need a strap (or whatever) to hold it in.

That's ebay!

Watch one of the previous videos, they show a quick toe measurement, and I'm not done showing you how. i do end up with a setting that is better than any alignment rack can get, and I know this because I have been fully trained as a technician. I have checked my cars on a "real" rack after completing one, and there isn't much to show. They are "green", but this way (my way) pushes alignment to an extreme outside the tolerances of a professional rack. Partially because those racks aren't nearly as precise as anyone thinks! i have been an ASE Master Technician for almost 20 years, with my most recent recert testing ~2 years ago, so I'm not a moron.

The hat light is very useful when working on stuff! The 'big yellow thing' by the flammable cabinet is a random scrap, of 2x4. It was probly used for something, or put away, by now.

Yeah, I had to get the 4ah to get my lugnuts off, that time. Since then, the 2ah gets them. i have a feeling the lugs were partially seized, but maybe the tool got stronger, idk. The studs are always slathered with antistuck, because the nuts are aluminum, and the lugs are always torqued with a Snap On Tech Angle. I have a feeling that we'll have a follow up, soon, because last night the nose felt loose, on the HT impact wrench.

1/4" filter, the vacuum hose used it the line that connects the PCV to the intake manifold. (OE hose is 6mm but that is close enough to 1/4", shit'll work)

Only restrictive if clogged, so frequent inspection & replacement is required. The clear housing allows an easy inspection for internal problems, like worn piston rings, which I'm just waiting for… (it's an H22 with FRM sleeves)

Yeah…that will blow gaskets.

Yup. Every 3 months, about. I've been using it over a year. I did make a better catch can for my last car, but it was much bigger, & this car has a much more crowded engine bay. It's small enough for an easy installation & the clear housing allows easy checks.

I got hand wipes! (but I haven't used it yet, see the sawdust?)

But don't wear dirty boots in the house!

I didn't show it, but it also has a muffler. That helps, but not enough, since most of the noise comes from the bottom of the piston. Yup, the bottom. It is "permanently oiled", so it has sealed bearings and an open crankcase. That leaves the bottom of the piston exposed… The muffler is a mower muffler with a 3/4" pipe thread input & a dirt bike air filter. Most compressors have a npt inlet, but not this one, so it's attached by sealing & tapping the airbox…that was plan #1, with minimal results, that's why I made this shed/doghouse/thing.

No problem 👍

Because I can. Even on air I used 3/8 when possible, so any cars or pickups, except duallies. For those, or bigger, I just went to 1/2". Roughly…really, it came down to lug size, because my 3/8" sockets max at 24mm. Ever since I got a 3/8" impact, anyway, over 10 years ago. I still use 1/2" for lugs by hand, because my 3/8" ratchet's not long enough.

It's just testing the capability of the tool

I agree bud. It is very confusing. These are the same people that lay their bare tools on concrete for them to get scratched and then leave them in a wet environment to get rusty after that. The same people that paint around fixtures and receptacles and light switch plates, the same people that use drywall screws or 25 zip ties to attach thier splash shield / lower engine tray on the bottom of their car, the same people that keep McDonalds on business (I haven't eaten it since I was a very small child and I am 38 now, the same people that are the reason there are 172 different cheap aftermarket wheel companies doing business in this country right now, the same people that make Temu a thing, the same people that make the Ford and Chevrolet car so popular, the same people that keep the above ground pool companies in business, the same people that get a cracked windshield and either immediately start looking for a "repair kit" online as if some new and improved way of melting glass and instantly fixing a windshield has been invented by chance, the same people that have pubic hair and dried pee spots on the bottom side things of their toilets and if you spray them with bleach to clean them you might die from fumes, the same people that make Alex Jones rich, the same people that make companies have to put warning labels on EVERYTHING such as "Warning: Don not eat the tide pods" or fine print on the box of food that says "not the actual size of the food". These are the same people that make me stay to myself and despise many. The same people that made me buy a $800,000 home on the beach at 38 and say eff the world, it's me and my dog and that is how it is going to be. Good luck out there bro. Lol

Also, because I carry 3/8" on my tool cart, not 1/2". Needing 1/2" requires a trip back to my toolbox, which may be very far from where I am. (like, end-to-end, the shop may be several hundred meters, or more, which is time, & if FR, time=money)

I was amazed. I didn't think it would do a whole wheel, then it did all four! With the 2ah battery it wouldn't even get one lug nut loose!

I've been using it on diesel bus hardware. It works 💪 great. Maybe the torque test channel bought a dud. It happens .

My ht 1/4 brushless impact driver took lug nuts off my f150 with the bigger battery there pretty good tools

@@austingoleman9431 holy shit…I'm surprised the anvil didn't shear! They must have been torqued correctly! (or loose)

I had just finished replacing the fascia & installing the gutter, so that wouldn't work. I waited to record & post until I knew it worked.

I was in a hurry, i'm a lightweight, and I never got on the roof. The standoff thing could be attached that way, too.

I thought about that, but I found the weed is soft enough the shingles get a really good grip in the limited rain we got while working on the gutter. Shingles are like 25 grit sandpaper, so using a soft wood (ie: pieces of a pallat, like I did) sticks pretty well with a bit of weight on it. I don't think I'd stay out there if it rained more than it did.

they do make ladder stabilizers purposely made to avoid gutters.. They are $100 tho

@@ell0hh yeah, I knew I "could" buy one… But I had a few scrap 2x4 pieces, some plumbing strap, and a couple dozen misc. screws, all on hand. Then I made it in ~1 hour, a few days ago. I find nothing like it…

@@ell0hh yeah but ladder stabilizers only keep you from the ladder to sliding side to side easily but to my understanding this one keeps you off of the gutter a ladder stabilizers do not do that

@@donmotitas6338 google “ladder-max stand-off stabilizer”

@@donmotitas6338 this is a pit wider footprint at the top, so it is like a stabilizer. It feels pretty secure, but it could be wider in some situations, but that's as wide as the scrap I grabbed was long. I also needed to position it all the way to the edge, to reach some fasteners.

I needed a place to keep my winter gear, and that space was unused.

The XS Power capacitor is still working, now. I was using a group 9 lead acid battery for almost a year, and it tested as over 500 CCA at the local Honda dealer. Then that battery died, now I'm running it with a Noco NL9 lithium battery. Sure, the NL9 could start it alone, but the electrical stress would be very high. XS Power's capacitor smoothes things out, for easy starts of my DD, and a ~33lb loss!

@@Iowa599 that's awesome! Less weight is always better! My XS weighs 58lbs 🤦‍♂️

Excellent question! Because I can, & because it cost me nothing to make that exhaust fan, but I couldn't reach it from the ground. Everything I used (the fan, the baling twine, the PEX tubing, etc) is stuff I found that was intended to be thrown away. That makes this recycling…("repurposing") My shop needed an exhaust fan, so I got (this) one for free.